We can create a longer pin just for the direct connection of Heron+18500 tube v2.5 or v3+AW 18490 battery+switch v4. In all other cases there is nothing else needed.
GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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We can create a longer pin just for the direct connection of Heron+18500 tube v2.5 or v3+AW 18490 battery+switch v4. In all other cases there is nothing else needed.
If his atty doesn't come flush in that way with just the top cap, then its 510 connector is problematic or not really adjustable and maybe the manufacturer has to be informed about it.
I don't need it because I have plenty of old GPin parts, but the old "long" pin works with the new Paps v4 switch and top cap, pre-Paps v4 18650 tubes, an AW IMR 18650 button top battery, and a KFL. A "longest" pin might not accommodate this scenario and a Paps v2.5 owner might not have the old "long" pin.
I would definitely pick up a "longest" pin if you offered it.
No, that Tugboat v2 won't fit flush like that. I actually cliped a loop off the GPin spring... that was so difficult. My wire clippers couldn't get in at a good angle and so I tried some nail clippers... the GPin spring chipped the metal off the cutting edge of the nail clippers. That silver plated spring is tough stuff. But I eventually got the loop off by stretching it slightly and getting my wire clippers fully in there. And, after all of that, the slightly shortened spring helped a little, but didn't completely solve the issue.
I have found though, that I can still make it fit flush by backing the delrin out just a little (plus the clipped spring). Alternatively, the spring wouldn't need to be clipped at all if I just back the delrin out and use the short GPin pin. So, it is definitely possible to make any atty flush. It's just not as easy as it possibly could be. And I am going to mention it in an otherwise totally positive video, if I decide to do one.
If someone wish to use a AW 18490 batteries instead of any 18500 battery with a v4 switch, a v3 18500 tube and a direct connection with Heron needs a pin longer than the ones available in any version. You called it longest, I called it longer compare it with the others, we say the same thing I suppose
Hmm, my thoughts / findings on the GPin:
1. Unlike Dave's situation - Every atty of mine sits flush with my GPined Paps/es. V2.5, LUX, V3 & V4.
2. But then I don't mix-&-match parts of the Paps/es. Each is in it's full configuration as sold.
3. I have checked & observed that most of my atty's 510s are near same sized.
4. Some could be a tad [hairbreadth] longer due to their protruding pos pins, but all my GPins accommodate that well.
5. The ideal way of attaching an atty is to first mount it on the topcap - and then attach the topcap to the mod.
6. However, inside the mod is another matter:
10. Tho most 49mm ones would fit - but there'd always be one with runaway specs!
1. Unlike Dave's situation - Every atty of mine sits flush with my GPined Paps/es. V2.5, LUX, V3 & V4.
2. But then I don't mix-&-match parts of the Paps/es. Each is in it's full configuration as sold.
3. I have checked & observed that most of my atty's 510s are near same sized.
4. Some could be a tad [hairbreadth] longer due to their protruding pos pins, but all my GPins accommodate that well.
5. The ideal way of attaching an atty is to first mount it on the topcap - and then attach the topcap to the mod.
6. However, inside the mod is another matter:
a) Some batteries will play a spoilsport.
b) Some will either rattle or won't allow the topcap to thread-in fully.
c) For the above - we need to swap out the bottom pins (provided) of the GPin.
d) And that 99% solves the issue.
e) There's a 1% chance that it wouldn't - but I noticed that it usually is with AWs (nipple topped).
f) No issue at all with an/y flat top battery.
7. Now about the flexibility of GPins:b) Some will either rattle or won't allow the topcap to thread-in fully.
c) For the above - we need to swap out the bottom pins (provided) of the GPin.
d) And that 99% solves the issue.
e) There's a 1% chance that it wouldn't - but I noticed that it usually is with AWs (nipple topped).
f) No issue at all with an/y flat top battery.
a) It is self adjusting against most situations - but could only do that much,
b) There are various sizes of batteries even within the same brand and capacity,
c) Moreover, protruding pos pins of attys vary in length. And a Pita if it's not adjustable,
d) Obviously thus, the GPins cannot be made to compensate for each & every type of difference out there.
e) Else, it'd be a bulky and ever growing kit by itself.
8. Now about the Paps V4 "Switch":b) There are various sizes of batteries even within the same brand and capacity,
c) Moreover, protruding pos pins of attys vary in length. And a Pita if it's not adjustable,
d) Obviously thus, the GPins cannot be made to compensate for each & every type of difference out there.
e) Else, it'd be a bulky and ever growing kit by itself.
a) It was designed to be a sub-part of a wholesome mod - the Paps v4.
b) Not as an extraneous part to be used with other mods.
c) Yes, it'd work with other mods under certain configurations - but cannot be guaranteed with every situation.
d) Backward compatibility always has a trade-off, sometimes.
e) Thus as a mod - the Paps V4 (and it's Switch or GPin) work well with all attys and batteries.
9. Remember the 18500 tubes are for 50mm long batteries, not for 49mm ones.b) Not as an extraneous part to be used with other mods.
c) Yes, it'd work with other mods under certain configurations - but cannot be guaranteed with every situation.
d) Backward compatibility always has a trade-off, sometimes.
e) Thus as a mod - the Paps V4 (and it's Switch or GPin) work well with all attys and batteries.
10. Tho most 49mm ones would fit - but there'd always be one with runaway specs!
If someone wish to use a AW 18490 batteries instead of any 18500 battery with a v4 switch, a v3 18500 tube and a direct connection with Heron needs a pin longer than the ones available in any version. You called it longest, I called it longer compare it with the others, we say the same thing I suppose
We're saying the same thing - a new pin for the GPin that is longer than any that currently exist would help support the 18490 issue with older 18500 tubes (both with a Heron direct connection and with a top cap). I was just adding that offering the old "long" pin might still be of value for pre-Paps v4 18650 tube owners with button top batteries that don't have it (e.g., they don't currently own a GPin with the old "long" pin because perhaps they only have a Paps v2.5).
If the Tugboat can't be flush with just the top cap, it means that the threaded part is not 4 mm long as 99% of the atomizers in the market, so you must do modifications as you found out. This proves a design flaw of the specific atomizer. I don't have one to verify it, but from the photos it can be seen how abnormally long is the 510 connector. We designed the spring of the GPin to be very strong, it has a +15 μ silver coating and it's heat hardened 302 SS, so it is not easy to cut it without wire clippers. It could possibly be easy, if all manufacturers respected the specs, but as in all industries they don't. Thank you for the feedback
Excellent! You summarised the whole discussion in 10 points, so newcomers who read the thread will understand everything! Thank YOU!
It is possible to be a design flaw, but there are a few other atomizers like the Tugboat v2 that are supposedly out of specs. The designers of these, I'm sure, were not thinking about a GPin when they did the 510s. They wanted something that would sit flush on a standard mech that has manually adjustable pins. Or sit flush on a standard box mod. And they wanted the pin to stick out a safe distance to add the possiblity of using hybrid mods. I agree that its ridiculous that after all this time for people making 510 atomizer threads that they can't all just make it the same way. But a mod like the Paps v4, which works with most atomizers and batteries with no adjustments occasionally needs adjustment with these unconventional 510 atomizers. Its not the fault of VapourArt, but there is a good handful of people who use something like a Tugboat. The Paps will require adjustment for this.If the Tugboat can't be flush with just the top cap, it means that the threaded part is not 4 mm long as 99% of the atomizers in the market, so you must do modifications as you found out. This proves a design flaw of the specific atomizer. I don't have one to verify it, but from the photos it can be seen how abnormally long is the 510 connector. We designed the spring of the GPin to be very strong, it has a +15 μ silver coating and it's heat hardened 302 SS, so it is not easy to cut it without wire clippers. It could possibly be easy, if all manufacturers respected the specs, but as in all industries they don't. Thank you for the feedback
The standalone/spares GPin set for mods such as the PAPS X will give you the longer pin you desire. There are also silver plated GPin sets available that should satisfy your needs.
When I get a moment I'll take a photo and post it of all of the Gpin's I have (one of each I think) to illustrate what I think will fix your problem.
When I get a moment I'll take a photo and post it of all of the Gpin's I have (one of each I think) to illustrate what I think will fix your problem.
It is not rational for us to reconsider our 510 connection which fits with every other device even cartomizers for many years now, because 1-2 new modders decided to create a non adjustable extra long threaded connector with an even longer pin. From the moment that you can't make it sit flush on the top cap alone is not about the GPin which is created in 2013, it is about the 510 connection itself that goes back to 2006 and this is serious omission, for that reason I called it sloppy work before. Manufacturers that don't follow the specs are an old story, this is true for every industry and it won't change anytime soon.
Ok, I took apart my v4 and PAPS X. With the V4 there is a, what I'll call, mini and a small pin. The mini is the same length as the atty side pin. With the X there is a small and large pin.
It makes sense to me that to use a v4 switch with a v3 tube you would use the "large" pin to make up for the longer v3 tube length. Tremendously out of spec 510 connectors are always going to be a problem, there is only so much room inside a GPin to compress the little spring. I have, in the past, sanded down super long 510's successfully.
With the v4 Gp have also included two insulators for the switch, one slightly larger (longer/thicker) than the other. It is my opinion the GP have gone well out of their way to provide the most flexible system available. Many other modders size things for VTC4's, 25r's or AW's and could care less about what the customer actually uses.
It makes sense to me that to use a v4 switch with a v3 tube you would use the "large" pin to make up for the longer v3 tube length. Tremendously out of spec 510 connectors are always going to be a problem, there is only so much room inside a GPin to compress the little spring. I have, in the past, sanded down super long 510's successfully.
With the v4 Gp have also included two insulators for the switch, one slightly larger (longer/thicker) than the other. It is my opinion the GP have gone well out of their way to provide the most flexible system available. Many other modders size things for VTC4's, 25r's or AW's and could care less about what the customer actually uses.
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I have about 10 of the older GPins (from Paps v3s, Paps Xs, and the Piccolo v4) so I currently have three sizes of GPin pins like you've illustrated in your picture.
I can accommodate button top AW IMR 18490 batteries with a GP Paps v3 18500 tube by using the the longest pin currently available - you call it the "GP Paps X 1.5 large". When I use this the same setup instead with the Paps v4 switch, even with the taller insulator, I experience battery rattle. I believe that an even longer pin would be needed to eliminate battery rattle in this configuration.
A spacer magnet would be the only option currently available to make that work then. Not elegant but it would work I suppose.
No worries, we shall make a pin long enough for 201 connection of Heron with a 18500 v3 tube, 18490 battery and v4 switch.
Put me down for a few of those!
On another note... I do have some 99% silver solder. I wonder if I could get a bead of it on the end if the gpin spring and if that would work? I have quite a few spare springs...
Just for kicks I might give it a try since I'm still on my original Heron v1 spring and the silver coating has rubbed off of one end (presumably from the rotation caused by screwing the Heron on the tube) and probably could be replaced anyway.
ps: the new switch is still fantastic even though I'm having some compatibility issues.
edit: doh, just realize this won't work. it'll just comes the spring a little not extend the reach of the Heron GPin.
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or you could add a little solder to the pin in the GPin assembly. That would be a lot easier than trying to solder a spring, and a lot more conductive + safer than using a magnet on the top of the battery.Just for kicks I might give it a try since I'm still on my original Heron v1 spring and the silver coating has rubbed off of one end (presumably from the rotation caused by screwing the Heron on the tube) and probably could be replaced anyway.
ps: the new switch is still fantastic even though I'm having some compatibility issues.
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