You're very welcome and thank you both for your comments!
The dripping hole is part of the top cap and it can take our Ultem or teflon extra drip tips or any other normal drip tip.
GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3
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You're very welcome and thank you both for your comments!
The dripping hole is part of the top cap and it can take our Ultem or teflon extra drip tips or any other normal drip tip.
Hello buddy,
The correct way of assembling is crucial for this mod because the tolerance is very tight, beyond 0,03 mm. You need to tighten the negative post with the screwdriver AND AT THE SAME TIME to use the GP Fork as a leverage, while the locking ring must be fully screwed. If it isn’t, then the pin will be seated under an angle and it will fall out eventually due to side pressure. You have to look at it, as if you assemble a clock, everything has its precise place
Any other way of assembling risks the damage of the pin.
We shall send you a new button, just send an email at info@vapourart.com referring your order number. We have a video reference guide for the GP PAPS 4: for the next time you take apart the switch.
Thank you ever so much Perseas,
I will take everything you have said on board. I only build ay 1.1ohm and am very careful with the device/switch. Genuinely has baffled me but thank you for explaining.
I will pop you an email now.
A legend you are [emoji108]
Thanks Perseas.
Ps. I noticed on your site that the Heron v3 is due to be released soon. Is there anything more you can tell me about this highly anticipated attie? (Date / teaser pics...info...very excited!)
You're most welcome! We responded to your email.
Due to the upcoming release of the GP Dripper, I don't wish to open a discussion for the Heron v3 at the moment.
I can only tell that it is redesigned from scratch
I forgot something regarding the switch: the quickest way to remove it from the tube is the following. You set the locking ring in the locked position and push the button with your finger and at the same time unscrew the switch; no need to remove the negative contact beforehand as the video guide reference shows. Take a look at the video below:
Okay, well if you do decide to tell more, promise I won't tell a soul (uhhummmm in my house uhhummmm). [emoji12]You're most welcome! We responded to your email.
Due to the upcoming release of the GP Dripper, I don't wish to open a discussion for the Heron v3 at the moment.
I can only tell that it is redesigned from scratch
Thanks for sorting out the button again P, your a gentleman and a scholar.
Waiting in ever anticipation.
Ash
Thanks Perseas, looks like a winner all the way around.
I was reading another thread and realised it is now two years since I bought my first Paps-X. Used every single day and still as beautiful as ever 
I was reading another thread and realised it is now two years since I bought my first Paps-X. Used every single day and still as beautiful as ever
Oops - THREE years and I'm still in love
Doesn't time fly!Oops - THREE years and I'm still in love
I was reading another thread and realised it is now two years since I bought my first Paps-X. Used every single day and still as beautiful as ever
I also use my X since 2013 and I know the feeling! Thank you for sharing it
Depends on the battery right ? A 30 continuous amp battery would be fine to use at .15 or so providing proper venting and the springs holding up. But the collapsing spring is not due to charge but heat so back tk airflow.
So are you saying for your mods .5? For battery safety you can go way lower
You're right! I am referring specifically to LiMn IMR batteries not the ICR ones and the other hybrid types. And many times what a battery claims to be depends on where you bought it. And what charger you use. I forgot to mention it, thank you for helping me to be more precise. We describe the need of a battery with 30A discharge rate in our Terms and Conditions and if you go at 0,15Ω in a mechanical mod which hasn't TC, I really don't know, what happens to the liquid's chemistry at such temperature, especially for the buttery/creamy ones.
Useful links:
Battery chemistry FINALLY explained
ECF Sub-Ohm Advisory
GP Dripper deck back a — Postimage.org
GP Dripper deck back c — Postimage.org
GP Dripper deck side a — Postimage.org
upload a gif
Following the feedback, we are currently working on a hex BF pin to replace the pictured one with the full slot to avoid any leakage in squonkers without catch cups.
Something is broken in ECF's forum system or in the postimage.org. I use the postimage.org since 2011 and now the links are displayed as images in the preview, but not in the post. Weird ...
UPDATE
I checked the resolution and it was above 5000x3500 px ...Oh silly me!
GP Dripper deck back c — Postimage.org
GP Dripper deck side a — Postimage.org
upload a gifFollowing the feedback, we are currently working on a hex BF pin to replace the pictured one with the full slot to avoid any leakage in squonkers without catch cups.
Something is broken in ECF's forum system or in the postimage.org. I use the postimage.org since 2011 and now the links are displayed as images in the preview, but not in the post. Weird ...
UPDATE
I checked the resolution and it was above 5000x3500 px ...Oh silly me!
(original pic could have been too large )
Thank you for the response, it was a resolution issue indeed!
Question, I think Ive seen all the "how to's" on the X. How does one change out the delrin on the swtich? I have spares, just have always been scared to mess it up.
Good question! Try with a thick needle to pry it out, but why do you want to change it?
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No reason really, I cleaned it really well, polished it, replaced the top delrin and a springs. Figured its been on there for 3 years? and have always wanted to clean inside. Im weird
PS, I always worry about moisture getting inside. Im OCD
Out of curiosity, how do you all pop the bell off your Heron? I have a difficult time on my v2 so I don't change flavors often.
I usually stick a pencil/pen into the chimney of the bell and push while pulling down on the tank cylinder while holding onto it with rubber bands.
It takes a lot more force than I would have expected. If you're taking votes, I vote for a threaded bell that I can unscrew with a hex key or something like the old Spheroids.
(edit: I also put a bit of eliquid on the o-rings before reinstalling the bell but it doesn't seem to have much effect)
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I usually stick a pencil/pen into the chimney of the bell and push while pulling down on the tank cylinder while holding onto it with rubber bands.
It takes a lot more force than I would have expected. If you're taking votes, I vote for a threaded bell that I can unscrew with a hex key or something like the old Spheroids.
(edit: I also put a bit of eliquid on the o-rings before reinstalling the bell but it doesn't seem to have much effect)
Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
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