GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

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BILLB OKC

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I cleaned my TI X in warm soapy water.
Dried it and put a fine coat of vaseline on all the threads,
re-assembled it in 650 mode with a LUX X converter and vaped my HERON.
Now I am trying to disassemble the TI and cannot get the two sections apart.

any suggestions?

edited to add: the stuff you see on the thread is lint from a tissue.

 
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JohnnyEars

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BillB, Persy wrote this the other day, it may help:

I replied to your email, but I forgot to describe a method of releasing metal stuck parts on general.
Put a cloth on a wooden surface to protect the mod,hold it from the edge and parallel with the surface, then knock its edge slightly a few times onto the cloth, to move the threads. All threads can be tightened or unscrewed with sudden movements, a similar intend has the repeated knock. If that fails, no worries, just follow my emailed instructions.
 

perseas

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I cleaned my TI X in warm soapy water.
Dried it and put a fine coat of vaseline on all the threads, re-assembled it in 650 mode with a LUX X converter and vaped my HERON.
Now I am trying to disassemble the TI and cannot get the two sections apart.

any suggestions?

Try the above mentioned method and if you still can't release them, send me an email to info@vapourart.com to fix it.

When the parts are clean and dry, pass the threads with a damp cloth not tissue, having a minuscule drop of vaseline, and then wipe them well, leaving only an extremely thin film upon the threads, because if you leave too much they will stick again. Titanium has a high coefficient of friction and this combined with low tolerance and lubed minuscule titanium particles into the threading is a reason to have parts glued together.
 
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Dontknow

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BillB, Persy wrote this the other day, it may help:

It certainly does work - I had exactly that same issue with all of the tubes. But it is not fast, it took me about 2 hours to get them apart. But it might be quicker for you as I have very poor hand strength.
Then it's a case of slowly working the tubes together and apart very slowly (so as not to bind them again) with Vaseline and plenty of cleaning material. Eventually they slide nice and smooth.
If you feel ANY resistance as you screw them together, DO NOT screw it tighter (or it might well bind again). Just unscrew it half a turn (or so) and work it back and forth until the resistance or binding-up stops. If necessary, completely unscrew the part, give it a good clean, and start again.
Sounds very tedious (and it is a bit), but it does get it sorted...


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darksparkle13

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Just got the text that my package has arrived safe and sound!
Oh man I want to go home NOW!
Haha my wife just sent me a pic of DarkSparkle with my package and said she wouldn't let her open it :D
I kinda want to let her since she flys home tomorrow but NO! Mi Ti! Not your Ti!
Curious as hell to know what serial number I got :)

Thanks P for the cloth on wood trick. It worked and I got my X all unstuck. I did see a few small metal flakes on the cloth when I was done. Not putting anything back together until I can clean this thing again.

I almost sneaked a peek, but couldn't bring myself to open up your very special package. But def want pics!:rolleyes::thumbup:

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JohnnyEars

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Would Noalox be worth using on the Ti's as a thread lubricant as it's also conductive?

Titanium has a high coefficient of friction, this is why it seems to be the Ti's that are having some thread binding issues compared to the stainless versions. (Sorry Uncle P, you already said that..)
 
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perseas

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Would Noalox be worth using on the Ti's as a thread lubricant as it's also conductive?

Titanium has a high coefficient of friction, this is why it seems to be the Ti's that are having some thread binding issues compared to the stainless versions. (Sorry Uncle P, you already said that..)

I think Nyogel 759G or 760G is better than Noalox for "dry" threads. More info regarding lubricants used in flashlights threading can be found here. Some are titanium oriented while others are not very common. What you have to remember is that the threading has to be kept always clean, regardless if it is slightly lubed with vaseline or any exotic lubricant or nothing at all as I prefer to keep my TiX just cleansed with soap and water and not lubed. And I use it 24/7 since Jan-February 2014.
 
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anavidfan

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Speaking of dry hits, occasionally I get a dry hit or two when I lay my device on its side for a while. I will pick it up take a puff or 2 on my Ody then suddenly I get a dry hit, then I open up the juice control and then its fine and then I get a gurgle. Then I close it up, vapes perfectly , even while chain vaping for minutes at a time. Stop chain vape some more , no dry hits. Then again if it sits on its side it might happen again.

I still cant figure out if its too much KGD or not enough. It puzzles me.

I spent the evening experimenting and figured out the cause. It was not enough KGD. I had too much space in between the cotton and coil causing slight dry , burnt taste. I rebuilt using more cotton , but still loose enough that I can slide it, much better now.

I think I have been having "bad build days"? I think insomnia combined with stress and bad hands have been taking their toll on my abilities. Ive managed to break 6 ceramics due to dropping, over tightening, over torching to get rid of taste which lead me to think I was using too much cotton.

I forgot that a couple weeks ago I changed out 2 of my ceramics because I dropped them while cleaning. I forgot to boil etc. I kept wondering why sometimes I got good taste and other times yuck. It dawned on me its because I of the new ceramics. I blew thru all but 2 ceramics. Now if I can manage to not break anymore till I can order some.

YOu live and learn , then when you get old you start to live and forget and you have to re-learn :)
 

yankeebobo

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Proud of you. :thumbs:




:laugh:

Got that covered for my 4 X's in 2 of my Double holsters... my 3 V3's also covered in my other Double and a Single holster, so only my V2.1 & Picc are left over (for now). The down side of wearing them all at once though... looking like a refugee from an over the hill SWAT Squad, and the proverbial .... crack with my pants hanging low from the weight. ;)

v.jpg

Uhh, I'll just have no comment on this. Even though I just did.
 

perseas

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All threads of the X Ti MUST be always be kept extremely clean and an accidental drop may create serious issues, not covered by our guarantee. We gave greater tolerance to the sections for this very reason, still keeping them in the calibration standards (0,05 mm), but Titanium has no nickel into his composition like the 316 SS to help the threads slide smoothly with each other, the feeling of the threads is dry compared to 316 SS. These "dry" threads can be lubed with very small amounts of vaseline or using more specific lubricants like Nyogel 759G or 760G, but this isn't necessary. When the threading is new, no matter how well is cleansed or lubed, work on it back and forth under tap water to remove the tiny particles that the developing friction releases between the threads. Do it for a while, and the threading will take its final shape. Then dry it and apply a very light coat of lubricant that can barely be seen or leave it clean without anything applied.

Source: http://www.vapourart.com/en/product/gp-paps-x-ti-edition-version-15
 
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StrikeIII

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Perseas, the countdown timer on your website says the next Vapourday is 18:00 GMT, but the announcement say 18:00 Athens time.

I'm assuming that it's the countdown timer that's wrong, because 18:00 GMT is 4 am here :)

The timer should state your local time at the bottom of it. For me it's 10am Central.

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perseas

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Perseas, the countdown timer on your website says the next Vapourday is 18:00 GMT, but the announcement say 18:00 Athens time.

I'm assuming that it's the countdown timer that's wrong, because 18:00 GMT is 4 am here :)

Thank you for bringing this to my attention, the 2 countdown timers are synchronised now. I had mistyped the hour in the second one.
 

btobw

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The timer should state your local time at the bottom of it. For me it's 10am Central.

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Yes, it does. The problem is it says 4am Sydney time - based on 18:00 GMT. But if the Vapourday is really at 18:00 Athens time, as opposed to GMT, then it will be 1am, which is slightly more human :)

I could, of course, be having a brain failure ... now it says 15:00 GMT and 1am Sydney. If you haven't changed anything Perseas, I probably need to lie down in a darkened room :D
 
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