GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid

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Chelonian

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Welcome aboard :)

Comparing a 16 mm atty with 22 mm ones is really a compliment for us, thank you!

Well, you earned it with this one.

I am an engineer, so I derive pleasure from reproducible methods of testing. I find it relaxing, as well as informative.

The non-genny RBAs were all built at .85ohms, 26 gauge kanthal, 8 wraps around a 3/32 bit.

The genny was built with a ceramic wick, 1 ohm's worth ribbon wire, torch heated during the build to snug it up nicely.

The juice was 50/50 Alice in Vapeland Bandersnatch, 6mgs

Surgical cotton used on all but the genny, with the best results achieved with 1/4 long wicks, left still rolled to the same size used to pass loosely through the coil.

I must say, it is easy to build the Spheroid, and the results are pretty - which is something I never thought that I would say about a coil, no matter how even the coil itself is. This tank far outperforms the Penelope that I had.

The results make the Russians taste washed out. Still good, just not as crisp.

edit:

I stripped and rebuilt the Spheroid 13 times, using various setups (14, if including going back to the the setup I liked the best, so 13 different builds)

I stuck with the eighth build.
 
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Idaholandho

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Well, you earned it with this one.

I am an engineer, so I derive pleasure from reproducible methods of testing. I find it relaxing, as well as informative.

The non-genny RBAs were all built at .85ohms, 26 gauge kanthal, 8 wraps around a 3/32 bit.

The genny was built with a ceramic wick, 1 ohm's worth ribbon wire, torch heated during the build to snug it up nicely.

The juice was 50/50 Alice in Vapeland Bandersnatch, 6mgs

Surgical cotton used on all but the genny, with the best results achieved with 1/4 long wicks, left still rolled to the same size used to pass loosely through the coil.

I must say, it is easy to build the Spheroid, and the results are pretty - which is something I never thought that I would say about a coil, no matter how even the coil itself is. This tank far outperforms the Penelope that I had.

The results make the Russians taste washed out. Still good, just not as crisp.

edit:

I stripped and rebuilt the Spheroid 13 times, using various setups (14, if including going back to the the setup I liked the best, so 13 different builds)

I stuck with the eighth build.
Nice brudda, what are you using for wick? How about coil? I have used mesh, silica, ekowool and now hell bent on cotton.
I will say, learning from King P back in the day, the smallest wick wins. Making it just long enough to touch the fluff.
Having quite a few Spheroids, I tend to match juice/flavor with ohms. GVC in all right now I built a single ribbon coil that now settled to .99 and it is a welcome change. I still prefer 1.5ish with GVC as it to me had the best flavor imo.

XnFjRiR.jpg


My best wife D likes her fruit Ahlusion around 1.6 and her Teas around 1.1ish.
I've successfully built dual micro coils in the Spheroid but found no true benefit to me as the atty really does produce nice vapor.

I really like to talk about builds in anything especially GP.
 

Chelonian

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Whooo-hooo....you have opened a can of worms with me and that subject :)

It's late, but I would love to geek out on all the intricacies of wicking - so I'll continue this subject.

As a start - I am on sterile surgical cotton for everything except gennys now. For gennys, even though I feel like I am cheating, I use ceramic wicks.
Genesis atomizer and I have a long and involved relationship. Started with mesh of course, then went to cable, then to sheathing - the shielding for cat12 rated cable was the best. It's hollow, therefore offers twice the wicking area, and I wove the coil through the sheath.

Then I went to cotton yarn - it got to where I tied a matt walker knot in the tank ends of the yarn. That was just overkill...effective overkill, but when you spend over an hour to rewick, and have to do it every flavor change, you have a problem, lol.

Ceramic is just too easy for me not to use. It handles heat, so I can just turn the wick as I heat the ribbon, and it just drapes itself over the wick - it literally self coils. At the same time, the ribbon is so pliable at that temperature that it adheres it self to the contours of the wick.

I then twist the legs, and voila.

To be continued in more detail and breadth of topic :)
 

wildvet

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I'm having a problem with one of my spheroids, hoping someone can guide me in the right direction.

No matter what I do, as soon as I fire the coil the switch & battery heat up. I've cleaned it thoroughly twice, & rebuilt it 3 times. Tried it on my X, my roommate's X, my piccolo & lux V3. I checked all the insulators & they seem fine. The only thing I can figure is that the 510 connector piece doesn't stick out very far at all - maybe less than a mm - & that's causing a short.

In all honesty, it's been intermittently giving me problems since I got it months ago. It would just stop working, then I'd fiddle w/ the nuts & coil & it would be fine for a day. then stop again. Now this.

I have no problems w/ my other 2 spheroids or the heron, so I don't believe it's operator error. Any suggestions?


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yankeebobo

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Hate to ask what may be obvious to you but.... You mention "fiddling" with the nuts and coil. How are the insulators? I'm assuming everything is tight from the bottom, but there is one insulator under one post that I would focus some attention to. If you have spare insulators I'd start but replacing them.
Maybe also check the posts height in relation to the internal bell (coil height as well to be sure). Take the "bad" and set it next to the good. Maybe even take the suspect base onto another working upper? This is how I'd start ruling it out.
 
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wildvet

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The thumb nuts do come loose from time to time, so I check to make sure they're tight when it doesn't fire.

I did check the insulators & they seem fine. But I'll try replacing them & see if it fixes the problem. I'm pretty sure it came w/ a spare.. Thanks for the tip!

Edit:
Good point comparing to the working ones too. I've got one that just had a bath & isn't built so will use it to see if I find the problem. Thx!!!

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perseas

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The thumb nuts do come loose from time to time, so I check to make sure they're tight when it doesn't fire.

I did check the insulators & they seem fine. But I'll try replacing them & see if it fixes the problem. I'm pretty sure it came w/ a spare.. Thanks for the tip!

Edit:
Good point comparing to the working ones too. I've got one that just had a bath & isn't built so will use it to see if I find the problem. Thx!!!

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Make sure the external 510 insulator around the positive pin is in its place. This pin has to protrude less than 1 mm.
 
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wildvet

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Ok. So rechecked all insulators - visually they seem fine. Visually compared post height - seems the same. The clean one has the v3 upgrade so had to compare to the other which currently holds coil & wick but if anything the working one maybe has fractionally taller posts. This could be because it has a coil so the thumb nuts aren't completely screwed down. Checked the screws on the underside-along w/ insulator. Tight, insulator looks good. The insulator on the 510 pos pin looks good as new. The pin does protrude less than on my other two.

Oddly, I was unable to screw the working base onto the tube of the non-working one so can't tell if the bell piece is coming into contact w/ the base. I don't currently have a coil on the 'broken' one. But I usually place then pretty low, just a mm or so above the hole, centered.

I'll have to try more switching up of parts but need a nap first. Have to be back at work in less than 8 hrs, but then I'm off for a week so will have more time to address this after tomorrow.


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yankeebobo

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Unable to screw one base on another. Hmm. Once you're all done with your work for the week setup a coil. Test it both with and without the uppers. If it gets hit with upper, remove it and do nothing else. Then see if it still gets hot. Stray tail wire from the coil?
Since that pin is slightly shorter, do you find yourself needing to tighten it down on the mod more?
Enjoy your week off!
 

wildvet

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Actually I do always test w/o the tube in place first so that can't be the issue. (Tired lack if sleep-ness makes me forget the obvious). I use micro (or mini) coils so I usually heat it up on the mod then compress it.

I'll test the tightening down on the mod later when I'm up.

Thanks Yankee for all your advice & help!


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perseas

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Ok. So rechecked all insulators - visually they seem fine. Visually compared post height - seems the same. The clean one has the v3 upgrade so had to compare to the other which currently holds coil & wick but if anything the working one maybe has fractionally taller posts. This could be because it has a coil so the thumb nuts aren't completely screwed down. Checked the screws on the underside-along w/ insulator. Tight, insulator looks good. The insulator on the 510 pos pin looks good as new. The pin does protrude less than on my other two.

Oddly, I was unable to screw the working base onto the tube of the non-working one so can't tell if the bell piece is coming into contact w/ the base. I don't currently have a coil on the 'broken' one. But I usually place then pretty low, just a mm or so above the hole, centered.

I'll have to try more switching up of parts but need a nap first. Have to be back at work in less than 8 hrs, but then I'm off for a week so will have more time to address this after tomorrow.


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Send the unit back to us for inspection and we'll fix it. Throw me an email to info@vapourart.com for return details.
 

wildvet

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So, I thought I'd provide an update on my Spheroid dilemma...

Built myself a half-... coil just for testing. Tried putting the 510 base from a working one onto the non-working one and couldn't get it to fire. Pretty sure that's operator error, I'm not great at making coils so I usually have to fidget with it when I wrap a new coil before it gets going. Checked to make sure the coil wasn't touching the posts, floor of the base, etc. I always keep the tails on my wire until I know I have the coil working, so made sure they weren't touching anything. All the screws are tight. Still - nothing.

Well poop. Had already planned to send it in to Perseas tomorrow morning so I put the original 510 base back on. Give it a quick test fire and lo and behold it fires! And the crap coil I put on actually lit up perfectly!

The one and ONLY thing I did before putting the old base back on: I laid the internal part (the side w/ the 3 holes) flat on the table, and pressed down hard on the perimeter to try and press the 510 pin out a little bit. That seemed to do the trick. Then when putting on the wick I dropped the assembled base and again, it gets hot. So I took the base off again and pressed it again. For now, it's working.

So either the insulator for the 510 pin, or the plate insulator, might be loose? I think the pin moves when the unit is tossed around a bit (like dropped for example), or just over time. I'm not convinced I can confidently remove the pin and replace the insulators, and get it all put back together properly on my own so I'm still going to send it back for Perseas' team to look at it. Just thought I'd put the info here in case someone else has a similar problem.
 

Chelonian

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I had to tighten the base down in mine a lot more than I thought I would have to the first time I took it off (which was about a week ago).

I thought I had broken it for a little while....even posted in the subforum looking for help.

I am glad you fixed it. Since I got mine, I haven't vaped anything else, and I had a pretty regular rotation through about 5 atties.
 

jpcwon

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Hello all! Just got a spheroid, and am curious how often you have to refill your liquid?

The Spheroid holds much more liquid than you think it will IMO. I usually refill mine every morning whether they need it or not. I then switch off throughout the day, so I usually get about a day's worth of quality vaping from them (but I am also using other devices along with them)......
 

darksparkle13

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The Spheroid holds much more liquid than you think it will IMO. I usually refill mine every morning whether they need it or not. I then switch off throughout the day, so I usually get about a day's worth of quality vaping from them (but I am also using other devices along with them)......
Jp thanks I use several devices as well, all with different flavors, it is stil hitting great going on two days! So with the fluff how hard it is to change flavors? Can you rinse the fluff? Or should I use new fluff?
 
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