GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid
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I have just changed most of my attys to kgd and i like it now you guys say that this rayon os the cats meow!! You guys have never steered me wrong so now I want to try this "rayon"!! I will search out a Sally's but I thought it was a shop for only hairstylist, lol!! I guess they must sell to the general public, correct!?
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Need some help....imagine that as y'all pros know I am still learning!! I cleaned my spheroids and had troubles with one of them. After cleaning and reassembling the base, the "piece" with the 3 holes that goes through the bottom into an insulator is not snug anymore so I'm not getting a good connection when I put the spheroid on a mod. The "pin" pushes back up from the bottom and I have takenit apart several times and pushed down on the top as hard as I can push but it still easily pushes back up from the bottom!! Do I "tap" it with something heavier than my finger or do I have a problem with the what I call grommet or insulator in which it seats in?
Tonite is one of those nights I wish I had one of you pros cell number because I probably won't sleep tonite until I get it fixed or even worse having to wait for a part, dang it all!! Please advise!
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Tonite is one of those nights I wish I had one of you pros cell number because I probably won't sleep tonite until I get it fixed or even worse having to wait for a part, dang it all!! Please advise!
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Me too.
I am going to cut my KGD down to a lifetime supply, my SnC to a half life and most cotton balls are going to the "Funding Americas Tailless Rabbits Prosthetically with Organic Cotton Balls" charity organization.
Also known as FATRPWOCBCO.
Your love and affection for rabbits is truly touching. The selfless dedication brought a tear to my...
Seriously though, this made me laugh!
I've recently fallen in love with the 18350 size. However, on the X, it's not happening.
On both my Xs, I cannot connect the Spheroid when the X is configured in 18350 mode. Either I have a huge gap under the Spheroid, or a huge gap in the tube.
Note that this is only an issue with the 510 cap. With the Heron and X Converter in 18350 mode, it works beautifully.
Is there an obvious solution I am missing? I haven't had coffee yet, so maybe.
The only thing I can think of is that maybe Perseas should consider making a third, even shorter, pin to include with the GPin, or a shorter (or softer) spring.
I don't have the tools to cut down one of my springs, which is the only other solution I can think of.
Just want to know if this is just me, or is a limitation of the X and Spheroid combination.
This seems like one of those things our experts must have run into before, so please, help a brother out.
I'd be more than happy to compensate any of you (including you, P) if a solution exists.
Edit: Another thought - will flat-top Efest 350s solve this?
Heading to the office for a few hours, will check back later. Thanks all.
On both my Xs, I cannot connect the Spheroid when the X is configured in 18350 mode. Either I have a huge gap under the Spheroid, or a huge gap in the tube.
Note that this is only an issue with the 510 cap. With the Heron and X Converter in 18350 mode, it works beautifully.
Is there an obvious solution I am missing? I haven't had coffee yet, so maybe.
The only thing I can think of is that maybe Perseas should consider making a third, even shorter, pin to include with the GPin, or a shorter (or softer) spring.
I don't have the tools to cut down one of my springs, which is the only other solution I can think of.
Just want to know if this is just me, or is a limitation of the X and Spheroid combination.
This seems like one of those things our experts must have run into before, so please, help a brother out.
I'd be more than happy to compensate any of you (including you, P) if a solution exists.
Edit: Another thought - will flat-top Efest 350s solve this?
Heading to the office for a few hours, will check back later. Thanks all.
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Short pin and cut spring definitely helps. But I don't run my Xs in 350. There's just too much power screaming to be used.
First thing first: this is not a limitation of the X and Spheroid combination, but 2 specific solutions occurred due to the functional need of the X to operate in 18350, 18500, 18650, 18800 mode with varied length batteries even at the same mode, depending on the brand and varied length kick v1, kick v2 and at the same time having enough pressure towards the battery without being telescopic.
Producing a bunch of different pins isn't a sleek solution. The second pin is already too much in my opinion. In an ideal world the differences among all battery modes would be just 15 mm for all the brands, the kick the same and all batteries would have the length their name suggests. But WYSIWYG doesn't apply here, too many variables in a equation require rather a limited approach, such as using a purple Efest in 18350 mode, or an unorthodox solution by trimming the spare spring.
Therefore, you can use a 18350 purple Efest flat top battery or trim a bit the spare spring with common combination pliers.
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Thank you for the answer Perseas. I was not trying to complain, please forgive me, I am only to figure out why this only seems to be an issue in 18350 mode. I have around 10-12 batteries of each size and only have this issue when trying to use the 18350 batteries, but they are all AW IMRs.
I will order some flat-top Efests to resolve this. I searched the various VA sub-forums and have seen this mentioned several times before and it seems the answer is always to have the user modify the GPin spring, but buying flat tops just seems easier to me.
Thanks again, friend.
P.S. yankee - with the builds I use, the 18350s are more than adequate to handle the amp load. I just am starting to prefer the smaller size, even if that means swapping batteries more often.
My bad. Let me clarify. I didn't mean amp load. I meant looks to me personally. There is something unorthodox about me personally using a spheroid in 350 mode on the X when I look over and see SnP and Heron screaming to match.
I'm not saying anyone doing this has a bad look. It vapes fantastic. Then I get home and see my half OCD glancing at bringing the diameters closer together.
I'm not saying anyone doing this has a bad look. It vapes fantastic. Then I get home and see my half OCD glancing at bringing the diameters closer together.
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My bad. Let me clarify. I didn't mean amp load. I meant looks to me personally. There is something unorthodox about me personally using a spheroid in 350 mode on the X when I look over and see SnP and Heron screaming to match.
That's what the other Xs are for, silly.
Maybe I should just get a 18350 Paps tube, v3 switch, and v3 cap and stop worrying about it, eh?
It's certainly not a don't worry about it. All kidding aside, the issue will still need to be addressed. And as P mentioned, this madness of battery tolerances is a battle that will remain. I think it was great to provide 2 pins. But I was more than happy to just trim a spring to accommodate the cap. Besides that, as long as the cap stays on the tube, this won't be a bother often.
Howdy GP'ers. I have a slight dilemma with my new spheroid; I can't get the bell off the top of the tank section. That o-ring is keeping it pretty tight on top. I tried to push it up and off from the chimney (inside the tank), but it won't budge. Do I need to use a bit more force or is there a trick to get it off? I'm trying to search for a solution, but nothing about that is showing up...
Try using a Sharpie pen, or something similar and give it a good push. Anything sturdy that can fit up in there is good.
That's what she said.
That's what she said.
Is there a chance that it's a v2? If so, it will be threaded and need to be screwed off. Just a thought.
If it is in fact a v3, in the future just take a small dab of Vaseline and condition the oring. As it takes just a tiny tiny amount, this is good practice with all orings on all atomizers to keep in new like condition. In most cases it will allow a dried oring to swell back to its original state.
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