Idk without messing with that same build, but that sounds about right... I'm using a dna 250 (166) rn, but after the preheat and whatnot, looks like my current .7 ohm 430 SS build at 450F settles in at about 16 watts.
High end RTAs
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the mod will fire enough power to heat the coil to set temp and then will provide enough wattage to maintain the set temp. That is how TC works! the final power will depend on a lot of things, coil mass, type of juice and moist of all, wicking efficiency. So I dont understand your problem to be honest!
I don't have a problem. I know how temp control works. I was referring to the voltage limitations the dna 75 board has compared to the dna 60. Then I gave an example from previous experience where I was trying to run a .6ish build in temp control around 30 to 35 watts and I was getting errors. My temp was set at 450 degrees although I wanted to set it higher because I like a warm vape and still I was getting errors. I don't have this problem with my dna 200s.
fwiw, whenever I've done a dry fire w/ cotton on these boards it starts to singe at about 400, rayon at about 420. You probably already knew that but just in case
tbh the dna 60 board is cool and I'll probably pop tgem in my 2 old zero's I still have left, but 60 is a bit low even for me, that extra 15 watts does make a difference to me sometimes, so it really isn't an upgrade to me. like right now my diy testing build, dual 316L claptons at 68.5 watts on a dna75, that's literally the lowest I could run this build it doesn't fully ramp up till the end of the first hit. If I use a different board from the 75 it'll usually be one of my 2 cell 250's (167), but I've never had any problems with any of mine since the firmware update last October or w/e.
Luckily, mine didn't get too much issue, only that I found that you must need to make sure the deck is tightly screw in to the tank area, if you when you are doing refill, there will have quite a lot of leak, but honestly I am not expecting this from e Phoenix. Flavor wise, I like that. As when comparing with Skyline (MTL deck), honestly I like V2 more (I am using Ti wire for TC).
The worse thing for V2 is, I don't know why the juice control ring is designed to be that loose, so I feel that the juice hole cannot be closed well when doing refill. I don't like the design on this
And for the workmanship quality, Skyline and Hassar are much better than V2
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Imagine the skyline in Titanium..... Skyline Ti. Has such a nice ring to it too. I would pay almost anything for it.
But i really like the current materials of Skyline, feel very solid. For titanium, I always like the blue color Titanium like the Hassar one, but after use for few days, I always change back to the Stainless Steel. So I started not to buy those Titanium accessories
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LOL same. My brain always goes, OhhHhhh titanium! But then, their shade of titanium matches absolutely no mod that I own in titanium :-( The weight factor doesn't seem to matter because the Hussar's are already incredibly light when compared to something like a Kayfun 5 which is nearly same length as the Hussar in regular/full mode.But i really like the current materials of Skyline, feel very solid. For titanium, I always like the blue color Titanium like the Hassar one, but after use for few days, I always change back to the Stainless Steel. So I started not to buy those Titanium accessories
their Ti is oxidised presumably under some controlled high-temp, limited o2 conditions. doesnt have to be like that of course!!
Damascus steel version of either would do it nicely although not sure I would want to pay $500 or whatever they would be...
absolutely agree but it comes with a seriously large price tag!! I think it is really hard to find damascus steel that is really made in any way that is close tio how it should be. In fact, I think the way it was originally made many hundreds of years ago is lost in the mists of time and todays efforts are a best guess!!
That's correct. True damascus steel is actually a crucible steel, where the molecules grab onto each other (for lack of a better term) the pattern is completely different to "modern damascus" which is in fact piled steel where different steels of varying carbon (or other metal content) are forge welded to each other. There is one Russian knife smith that I know of that creates true "bulat" which is Russian crucible steel and is true to the lost art of real damascus. The Russian Shashka (sabres) made from bulat were vastly superior to anything else in the Napoleonic era. Some historical records indicate that it was this Russian steel that pivotal in many battles.
This takes nothing away from the fact that modern damascus is beautiful, but to claim it is anything like the material used in swords of a bygone era is horse poop. Unless we want to make a tenuous similarity to forge welded (piled) steel made in the Viking era. But that is a stretch at best
regarding the Hussar:
received mine a few days ago, only tried single coil deck so far with kanthal-koh gen do build. 70vg/30pg
What ive noticed so far at least with kanthal build, is that you have to turn juice flow control off from time to time.
you will get minor leaking/flooding with juice flow open all the time
This rta wicks better than any other that i have.
will try a dicodes NiFe30 build in it soon, along with trying dual coil deck as well.
received mine a few days ago, only tried single coil deck so far with kanthal-koh gen do build. 70vg/30pg
What ive noticed so far at least with kanthal build, is that you have to turn juice flow control off from time to time.
you will get minor leaking/flooding with juice flow open all the time
This rta wicks better than any other that i have.
will try a dicodes NiFe30 build in it soon, along with trying dual coil deck as well.
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