Homemade syringe tank mod, looks easy!

[Iffy]

Do let us know how it works out. Do you find it easier to slot them than drilling holes?

I found that it's easier for me to Dremel. Although I'm sure I'll try Dougiestyle's CARTO PUNCHING JIG!

As to how they're working... well, dumb azz me loaded both of 'em up.

So it's gonna be a while until I get to da bottom... but, I'll suffer through for the sake of PV evolution and the ECF family.

The most labor and time intensive part was cleaning the adhesive off the carts.

So far there are no leaks in any position. I tested the tri-slot carto tank by inverting the PV vertically (tank on top) so the slots were 'dry' and could tell no diff in draw or vapor. The next tubes I'll cut to 1.5" for a bit more volume.

NOTE: I did determine that I'll have to label the tanks with optimum voltage on my Buzz Pro. The peach isn't as voltage forgiving as the coconut. Gotta luv the Brothers labeler...

 

[Beaverkt]

I'm having some issues with wicking. I've tried using both lr boges and dual coil cartos. and I've tried punching with both screws and nails both one and two holes. I've tried slotting them too both one and two slots. I used a hacksaw as I dont have a dremel. Even after all of that I cant seem to get them to wick properly. I've started the carto empty and I've also tried filling the carto first. After a little while all I get is burning. Any ideas about while I cant get these darn things to work.

 

[kinabaloo]

Where to position the hole through the cartomiser casing will depend on its design. For some, higher up will be necessary to prevent it leaking straight out the bottom..

 

[kinabaloo]

I'm having some issues with wicking. I've tried using both lr boges and dual coil cartos. and I've tried punching with both screws and nails both one and two holes. I've tried slotting them too both one and two slots. I used a hacksaw as I dont have a dremel. Even after all of that I cant seem to get them to wick properly. I've started the carto empty and I've also tried filling the carto first. After a little while all I get is burning. Any ideas about while I cant get these darn things to work.

Try with the tank only half full. Air needs to get in for juice to get out.

 

[asnider123]

with a CE2 syringe mod, you drill 4 tiny holes toward bottom, 2 more about 2/3 of the way up. This allows air to replace the fluid that needs to wick into the bottom. Did I explain that correctly????



Built and filled 8/29, hasn't leaked a whit and it wicks great so long as the fluid stays above the lower holes. Basically, the inside tube level remains the same as the outside tube. CE2 elements easily replaced, screw on 510 extension, lay unit on side, let fluid settle into outer tube, wiggle old element out, slide new element in, seat bottom o-ring, then stand it up and seat upper silicone seal. Bob's your uncle.

Thanks to Breaktru for his excellent design

 

[Beaverkt]

Try with the tank only half full. Air needs to get in for juice to get out.

I actually did try that but only because I was tired of completely filling and then emptying when it inevitably didn't work again

 

[Beaverkt]

Snider are those holes in your inner or outer syringe ? I'm assuming they are in the inner one. So If i did that to the top of my steel carto tube it should accomplish the same thing hopefully.

 

[wyojoe]

I found that it's easier for me to Dremel. Although I'm sure I'll try Dougiestyle's CARTO PUNCHING JIG!

As to how they're working... well, dumb azz me loaded both of 'em up.

So it's gonna be a while until I get to da bottom... but, I'll suffer through for the sake of PV evolution and the ECF family.

The most labor and time intensive part was cleaning the adhesive off the carts.

So far there are no leaks in any position. I tested the tri-slot carto tank by inverting the PV vertically (tank on top) so the slots were 'dry' and could tell no diff in draw or vapor. The next tubes I'll cut to 1.5" for a bit more volume.

NOTE: I did determine that I'll have to label the tanks with optimum voltage on my Buzz Pro. The peach isn't as voltage forgiving as the coconut. Gotta luv the Brothers labeler...

I was able to buy some Stainless steel DC carto's so I don't need to take the paper off and clean all the glue off. I agree its a pain. I tried cleaning the glue off with E-juice and it doesn't touch it, so I wonder if it would be OK to use it with the paper on, and punch a hole thru the paper and the side of the carto? Keep us informed how the tri-slot works for you and why you think the tri-slot is better.

 

[wyojoe]

with a CE2 syringe mod, you drill 4 tiny holes toward bottom, 2 more about 2/3 of the way up. This allows air to replace the fluid that needs to wick into the bottom. Did I explain that correctly????



Built and filled 8/29, hasn't leaked a whit and it wicks great so long as the fluid stays above the lower holes. Basically, the inside tube level remains the same as the outside tube. CE2 elements easily replaced, screw on 510 extension, lay unit on side, let fluid settle into outer tube, wiggle old element out, slide new element in, seat bottom o-ring, then stand it up and seat upper silicone seal. Bob's your uncle.

Thanks to Breaktru for his excellent design

I have been wondering about a hole toward the top of the carto in addition to the bottom hole for wicking. Do you think a second hole toward the top would make the carto wick better than just a bottom hole?

 

[asnider123]

Snider are those holes in your inner or outer syringe ? I'm assuming they are in the inner one. So If i did that to the top of my steel carto tube it should accomplish the same thing hopefully.

I don't know .. the CE2 has a top heater element and wicks dipping into a reservoir below, standard cartos might leak thru the bottom hole, not sure ??? I am basically enlarging the size of the reservoir is all

 

[asnider123]

I have been wondering about a hole toward the top of the carto in addition to the bottom hole for wicking. Do you think a second hole toward the top would make the carto wick better than just a bottom hole?

With clear CE2's it works great! You fill it with a syringe thru the original CE2 fill holes. Other types of cartos may be different, I really don't know. Guess you could try, it will break the vacuum, that's for sure

 

[Beaverkt]

I don't know .. the CE2 has a top heater element and wicks dipping into a reservoir below, standard cartos might leak thru the bottom hole, not sure ??? I am basically enlarging the size of the reservoir is all

Ya I've tried the CE2's before but they just weren't my cup of tea. I'm thinking the 4 holes in the bottom are equivalent to the punching/slotting that we are already doing and that the 2 at the top are only for air flow. I'm thinking if I add a hole at the top of the carto that it might help my issue. I can only conclude that some sort of vacuum or vapor lock is causing my wicking issues as I've made holes and slit big enough that carto should be extremely flooded yet I'm getting nothing but dry poly. The thing I cant figure out is how all these other carto tanks work fine yet I cant mine to wick for nothing.

 

[wyojoe]

With clear CE2's it works great! You fill it with a syringe thru the original CE2 fill holes. Other types of cartos may be different, I really don't know. Guess you could try, it will break the vacuum, that's for sure

Thanks for the info. I'm going to try a top and bottom hole to see how it works out.

 

[GIMike]

Ya I've tried the CE2's before but they just weren't my cup of tea. I'm thinking the 4 holes in the bottom are equivalent to the punching/slotting that we are already doing and that the 2 at the top are only for air flow. I'm thinking if I add a hole at the top of the carto that it might help my issue. I can only conclude that some sort of vacuum or vapor lock is causing my wicking issues as I've made holes and slit big enough that carto should be extremely flooded yet I'm getting nothing but dry poly. The thing I cant figure out is how all these other carto tanks work fine yet I cant mine to wick for nothing.

What kind of carto?

 

[wyojoe]

I'm having some issues with wicking. I've tried using both lr boges and dual coil cartos. and I've tried punching with both screws and nails both one and two holes. I've tried slotting them too both one and two slots. I used a hacksaw as I dont have a dremel. Even after all of that I cant seem to get them to wick properly. I've started the carto empty and I've also tried filling the carto first. After a little while all I get is burning. Any ideas about while I cant get these darn things to work.

I'm still learning and could use some suggestions also.

 

[ricks]

We are going to need to know what you are using exactly, what battery, what cart and what liquid. Im using the Provari at 3.7-4.1 volts with strandard size Boge 3ohm cartomizer in a syringe mod and it works geat. Ive made 4 and all 4 worked great.

 

[Beaverkt]

We are going to need to know what you are using exactly, what battery, what cart and what liquid. Im using the Provari at 3.7-4.1 volts with strandard size Boge 3ohm cartomizer in a syringe mod and it works geat. Ive made 4 and all 4 worked great.

I'm using and Ego battery with with different flavors of standard dekang which I believe is 80/20 pg/vg. I've tried using both boge lr cartos (2 ohms if I remember correctly) and 1.5 ohm dc cartos. So the juice is plenty thin enough. And its not like its just wicking slowly its not wicking at all. I've tried letting it sit at home all day while I'm at work 10+ hrs and still nada. I mean I'm obviously doing something different than everyone else to make it not work but I have no idea what it is.

 

[BILLB OKC]

take the caromizers in question from the tank.
tape the hole and try to vape nromaly.
this will let you know if you have a cartomizer problem or a tank problem.

 

[Beaverkt]

They work fine using them outside the tank after I take them out and fill them. I actually use a carto condom with the end cut off to seal the holes I punched. even the ones I fill before I put in the tank work fine until the initial filling runs out and they dont wick any juice from the tank

 

[ricks]

Thats a great idea. Some of my carts that I use in my tanks were used without the tank and when I put them in a tank, they worked better.

take the caromizers in question from the tank.
tape the hole and try to vape nromaly.
this will let you know if you have a cartomizer problem or a tank problem.