Hybrid Tank MOD - MAP tank & GP-SSR
- Thread starter PKZap27
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Just making sure I understood.
I would if I could cut threads. (no lathe)
One could make a day of it and turn out a bunch for quick change. (They do crack often)
I would if I could cut threads. (no lathe)
One could make a day of it and turn out a bunch for quick change. (They do crack often)
Yeah..saw post..didn't want to risk a cut-off wheel...too easy to chew through more than I wanted to. I viced the connector and did a few of pull backs with the hacksaw and got it cut nice and clean. And the best part is..with one hole drilled in the side and the slot in the center post we've got good draw!! YEAH! I may drill one more hole though..just cause I like a nice airy draw..901 style. I also keep thinking about sanding the slots on top of the adapter and I don't see a need assuming the o-ring seals above it. So modding the 510-510 just needs 1-2 holes drilled in side and slot cut in center post and you should be good to go!
Well I guess I'm going to maybe learn something new here.
So Gummy you can only cut threads in Delrin & Polycarbonate with a lathe, meaning you can't use traditional taps & dyes like how you use them on steel.
Awesome!
I thought about a hacksaw (with fine tooth blade) but felt it might be to wide of a cut.
Oh yea you can cut them that way BUT, the thread pitch may not be desirable.
a pipe thread of that size may only be 10 or 16 Threads per inch, a good thread pitch for something like this would be more like 30 TPI.
edit:
If you only have 1/4" of tube going onto the end cap. you will want more than 1 1/2 threads holding it on.
Last edited:
So you can cut 30 TPI by hand in this application, meaning no lathe?
I can't do it. Inside threads in a 3/4 ID is hard enough to do with a lathe. I cheated and used the screen holders that screw onto kitchen sink faucets. A bit of remodeling and they pressed into the lexan.
yep..you can if you have the right taps and dies...however for this application I think a good 1/2" of 16TPI would be sufficient..or at least I hope so...for the tank. I have finer TPI's for the smaller parts. It is possible though to get very fine large diameter tap/dies though. Check out: Victor Machinery - Metalworking tools and supplies They aren't cheap though..so figure out everything first before buying one...LOL!
A 1/2" of 16TPI would take up a full inch of the total project. Just how long (tall) would it have to be. I would have thought that 1" would have been total height.
Hey, cool link. They do have them and the price is not that bad. 25.00ish each....... Whoo Hoooo.
Yeah..Gummy...I saw that setup you did with the kitchen screen holders...that was slick thinking! If I can't get mine to tap right...I've thought about trying those. I just want to do anything I can to keep from having to pop the caps off these maptanks. My hands are bad and I'm just barely able to get them off and I'm chewing them up using a screwdriver as a prybar. I also hate the bit about pressing in CE2's as well..but I solved that with my homemade tool. But I do want a nice clean, easy to maintain setup that's almost 100% no metal and no other stuff to screw up the juice or the flavor. I know it can be done!!
hmm...16TPI should be 16 threads per inch..so 1/2" of threading should be 8 threads..which I'm hoping is sufficient. I'm only worried about threading for the end caps having enough to bite though...I'll thread the entire tank inside if necessary..that's easy.
The tube length for the original MOD in the beginning was 1-5/8" long. Not sure what the veterans are going to come up with for a tube length after they are done creating their version.
Last edited:
XL Maptank now is 2"...so I should have enough room to play with. I haven't completely crunched the numbers yet. I've got enough stock to make at least 6 XL tanks though, so I'll have a bit of room to experiment. I may also be able to get by with just about 4-5 threads too...will just have to see once I can stand up long enough to spend a full day or two in the shop. Also by utilizing the 510 connector/oring setup we've been discussing above I can recess the CE2 further if need be, while still maintaining the outside threaded wall of the delrin cap...it will work...just gotta do all the math or have a cool CAD program like Dan has...LOL!
On the blackboard 8 threads yes, but in real life no, keep in mind that the starting threads are not full and it won't cut to the bottom.
My tanks are 1" total with 1/8" for each end cap. no threads or O rings. just a light press fit.
I'd love to make a tank of pyrex.
My tanks are 1" total with 1/8" for each end cap. no threads or O rings. just a light press fit.
I'd love to make a tank of pyrex.
Last edited:
I wonder if Dan will do a tube for the regular CE2's and a longer tube for XL CE2's. 
It could be made to work but, With a single groove thread of 4 threads, the top and bottom thread will have no grip, the center 2 threads will have a very high torque angle on about 1/2 of their circumference, at opposite sides. but for this app torque angle may not be needed for clamping force but it's just that if you drop it it could pull the threads real easy
I wonder if a softer o-rings (if used) would help in this application?
- Status
Similar threads
