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Para

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Zor, I agree but we have to think a little more about the width of this small things. If we push it then it will become bigger than 1mm that is now. Lets see the width. If we have a circle with a radial of 0,5 mm then the perimeter is 3,14. The half of perimeter is 1,57. That means that this small thing will become 1,57mm when it gets flat. Its not big for the slots but we have to be careful when we put it inside slots because it has to go in the right way if you know what I mean

A crimping tool is like really dull scissors. Instead of cutting the item in to it pushes that metal into each other from both sides. IOW, it makes a dent. The idea is the dent presses against what's inside and holds the item in place. Since the wire is SO small in diameter, it will most probably slide right out.
 

imeothanasis

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So true, but I am sure it does not get flattened very much according to he video I watched. I will see if I can get it, try it out and let you know the results. It may be a few days before I can order it though.

-Zor

Very good Zor. A test will show us the way buddy:)
 

Repent

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Imeo where can we get spare parts for the iAtty. I'm noticing that the top of the slots in my plastic atty piece show signs of melting. It seems that the R/NR wire twist is getting hot enough to melt into the plastic. How do I stop that but also probably going to need to order a top plastic piece?
 

Repent

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Imeo;

I just made a coil that is 1.5 oHm and measured the resistance wire and there is 1cm of resistance wire between the twists of NR/wire. Does that sound about right? Reason I ask is that when I go to wrap the wick it seems I can only get maybe two wraps before running out of R/wire.

My trouble in making coils is that when I go to insert the wick/pin/coil into the slot it seems like I'm fighting the NR/wire to get it out of the way and under the wick when it goes into the slot. Seems that I almost always pull R/wire out of the slot and have to try again.

My hands just aren't as steady as they used to be I guess. Still working on it and getting lots of flavor and vapor.
 

imeothanasis

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Imeo where can we get spare parts for the iAtty. I'm noticing that the top of the slots in my plastic atty piece show signs of melting. It seems that the R/NR wire twist is getting hot enough to melt into the plastic. How do I stop that but also probably going to need to order a top plastic piece?

I will send plastics to Bruce repent but its not the r/nr wire that cause this. R/NR wire stays very cool. Its because you left by mistake the R wire to touch the plastic
 

imeothanasis

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Imeo;

I just made a coil that is 1.5 oHm and measured the resistance wire and there is 1cm of resistance wire between the twists of NR/wire. Does that sound about right? Reason I ask is that when I go to wrap the wick it seems I can only get maybe two wraps before running out of R/wire.

My trouble in making coils is that when I go to insert the wick/pin/coil into the slot it seems like I'm fighting the NR/wire to get it out of the way and under the wick when it goes into the slot. Seems that I almost always pull R/wire out of the slot and have to try again.

My hands just aren't as steady as they used to be I guess. Still working on it and getting lots of flavor and vapor.

If the R wire you use is 0,13mm then 1cm is about right repent. As for your dificulties about wick-ceramic, the trick is to put off the pin before you put the wick-wire inside ceramic.

If you can only make 2 wraps then use a fatter R wire like a 0,16mm. But 2 wraps are not bad at all repent
 

Repent

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If the R wire you use is 0,13mm then 1cm is about right repent. As for your dificulties about wick-ceramic, the trick is to put off the pin before you put the wick-wire inside ceramic.

If you can only make 2 wraps then use a fatter R wire like a 0,16mm. But 2 wraps are not bad at all repent

Just had better luck I think. I am using .16 R/wire and .236 NR/wire. That's good to know that 2 wraps are OK. I was thinking I needed at least 4 wraps. Cool. Didn't like the first one I made tonight. I saw that just a little of the R/wire had been pulled out of the ceramic during installation. Took that coil off, made another at 2.4 oHm and made darn (excuse my foul language) sure that the only thing coming out of the ceramic slot was wick and R-NR/wire twisted. Looks to be good.

What do you mean by "As for your dificulties about wick-ceramic, the trick is to put off the pin before you put the wick-wire inside ceramic". You leave the pin in the wick until all connections are made and excess wire is cut off. This is what I do as well. Are you referring to something else? I have followed your videos very carefully, well, except for the R/wire sneaking it's way out of the ceramic on me. I have to tell you, you give the R/wire an inch and it will take a mile (or give it a millimeter and it will take a meter). :)
 

imeothanasis

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I meant repent that if you try to put wick inside the ceramic with the pin attached and you find it very dificult to do that, you can take off the pin before you put wick with the wire inside ceramic. Its easier this way because pin makes wick fatter so its more dificult to fit inside ceramic. You dont have to leave the pin attached on the wick:)
 

Repent

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I meant repent that if you try to put wick inside the ceramic with the pin attached and you find it very dificult to do that, you can take off the pin before you put wick with the wire inside ceramic. Its easier this way because pin makes wick fatter so its more dificult to fit inside ceramic. You dont have to leave the pin attached on the wick:)

hmmm I think I may try that on the next coil.
 

Poppa D

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Imeo where can we get spare parts for the iAtty. I'm noticing that the top of the slots in my plastic atty piece show signs of melting. It seems that the R/NR wire twist is getting hot enough to melt into the plastic. How do I stop that but also probably going to need to order a top plastic piece?

The ceramic cup has 2 holes in the bottom for the original ce2 wires. These 2 holes can be used to run your NR wires through. By making your coil this way you would assure the resistance wire cannot make contact with the plastic ceramic holder.

Its a bit like threading a needle, but it would protect your iAtty parts.

Note:
By doing it this way you can make your coil as long as necessary and it will stay safely away from the iAtty plastic.
 
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lorderos33

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Zor, I agree but we have to think a little more about the width of this small things. If we push it then it will become bigger than 1mm that is now. Lets see the width. If we have a circle with a radial of 0,5 mm then the perimeter is 3,14. The half of perimeter is 1,57. That means that this small thing will become 1,57mm when it gets flat. Its not big for the slots but we have to be careful when we put it inside slots because it has to go in the right way if you know what I mean

I have seen the crimped connections from those types of jewelry crimpers. What is left after crimping is usially a little bit smaller than the original crimp tube. It's done in 2 parts. The first step dents the crimp tube and secures the wire. The second step in the crimping process takes that crimped tube, folds it essentially in half and crushes it to its smallest possible diameter. It hould end up just a bit smaller than 1mm OD when finished if you do both crimping steps.
 

Armisis

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Ok, now I'll need to hunt down all the links to places to get all the gear needed to try this out on my IAtty... But to use with my SS-GGTS... I'll have to really work the voltage issue though as I've gotten quite use to 6v... maybe just 1 3.7v cr123???

Dave

oK, here it is again with pics on building the iAtty with a mesh wick. Hope this helps :)

Here's how I did it.

I took a 15mm x 50mm piece of mesh and rolled it till it fit in the CE2 ceramic cup and then oxidized the entire wick, not just the part the coil gets wrapped around.

lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46688-rolled-mesh-not-formed-oxidized.jpg


Once the oxidation is was done, I put it in a gutted CE2 to hold it steady while I made the tight bends. T make the bends, I took the butane torch I used to oxidize it, set it to high and focused the heat on one side of where it sticks out of the CE2. I heated it u til it gave to slight pressure then bent it to 45 degrees while still applying the heat from the torch. Do the same on both sides so you end up with a wick that looks like kind of like this \_/ (upside down though).

lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46689-mesh-wick-formed-oxidized.jpg


Make your wire like you normally would and wrap it around the center leg of the mesh.

Take 2 pieces Of the fiberglass wick just long enough to use to put between the mesh and the wire leads (you need this to seal up the channels where the wick goes to the liquid and to insulate the mesh from the leads).

Assemble the iAtty as you normally would, fill it with juice and hold on to your socks!

lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46686-iatty-finished-side.jpg


lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46685-iatty-finished-top.jpg


lorderos33-albums-iatty-mesh-wick-picture46687-resistance-provari.jpg


Remember, this setup kicks like nothing else I have ever tried. It does not burn the juice at all, but it produces extreme amounts of very strong vapor... The first hit made me choke

To those of you brave enough to do this, you have been warned. I promised I'd do the experiment and post the results. Use at your own risk and try it with lower level nic juice first. I cannot say it strongly enough...the iAtty hits VERY HARD like this.

Personally, I will most likely work on a hybrid mesh/wick combo next to try to tame this for every day use.

The pics were taken after a couple o days and 2 full tanks vaped through, no cleaning, just opened the iAtty and took pics ;). As you can see, it stays very clean. The vapor production is as good as the first day still, flavor is through the roof and TH is now manageable. I can hit after hit with no issues, but if I chain vape it, it's an almost instant head buzz and I have to fight back the coughs, lol, but no burnt taste at all. It's very nice. :)

You'll have to excuse the pics, they were taken with my phone.
 
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