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lorderos33

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Would the GGTS Fuse Protection safe guard against a shorted coil?

It might, but you'd still have the mechanical problem of a shooting coil and a blown fuse. The best way to check is to put it all together and before you put the top cone and tank on you would connect the iAtty to the battery, add a drop of juice and test fire it.

You will know you have a shorter coil I'd any of the following is true.

The mesh glows red before the coil does.

The coil only partially glows red while a section of it does not get hot at all.

The button on your GGTS gets warm when you press it for more than 5 seconds.

You battery gets hot.

If you have none of this going on, you have no shorts. The heating coil should glow red evenly (when there is no airflow gettin to it) and all at once. The mesh should only glow from contact with the heater after it has run dry and the button is still pressed.



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lorderos33

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I just got the silver crimp tubes and crime tool today. It definitely make making the wire much easier and the connection is rock solid.

I'll post pics soon when I get to my PC. The crime tube are tiny, smaller even than I expected them to be. The are definitely small enough for making iAtty coils.

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imeothanasis

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Zoranth

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Were you able to pinch the tube down just enough to allow you to measure the resistance and adjust it before you actually crimped it in place?

I just got the silver crimp tubes and crime tool today. It definitely make making the wire much easier and the connection is rock solid.

I'll post pics soon when I get to my PC. The crime tube are tiny, smaller even than I expected them to be. The are definitely small enough for making iAtty coils.

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lorderos33

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Here are the pictures of the process of making the iAtty wire with 32ga kanthal, .999 30ga fine silver NR wire and 1mm x 1mm Silver crimp tubes.

Bare wires:
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47522-resistance-nr-wires.jpg


Wires and crimp tube - tiny aren't they?
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47521-wires-crimp-tubes.jpg


Here's a closer look. Don't hook the wires like this, they will be too big to fit in the crimp tubes if you can magine that :)
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47520-bad-configuration-just-put-them-straight-crimp-tube.jpg


Here is what the finished wire looks like, the connections are quite small when finished - exactly what we are looking for.
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47518-finished-wire-2.jpg


Here is the wire wrapped up on a fiberglass wick. The wire connections are holding very nicely.
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47517-crimped-wire-rope-wick.jpg


And here is it all put together in the ceramic.
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47515-crimped-wire-installed-iatty-2.jpg


This is a 1.5 ohm coil using 30ga .999 pure silver leads, 32ga kanthal and 1mm x 1mm silver crimp tubes to hold the wires together.

Now it's time for a :vapor: break ;)
 
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Zoranth

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Wow, that looks just like I imagined when I came up with this. Thank you lorderos for being the guinea pig and testing this idea.

Here are the pictures of the process of making the iAtty wire with crimp tubes and the tiny crimp tube.

Bare wires:
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47522-resistance-nr-wires.jpg


Wires and crimp tube - tiny aren't they?
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47521-wires-crimp-tubes.jpg


Here's a closer look. Don't hook the wires like this, they will be too big to fit in the crimp tubes if you can magine that :)
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47520-bad-configuration-just-put-them-straight-crimp-tube.jpg


Here is what the finished wire looks like, the connections are quite small when finished - exactly what we are looking for.
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47518-finished-wire-2.jpg


Here is the wire wrapped up on a fiberglass wick. The wire connections are holding very nicely.
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47517-crimped-wire-rope-wick.jpg


And here is it all put together in the ceramic.
lorderos33-albums-iatty-silver-crimp-tube-wires-picture47515-crimped-wire-installed-iatty-2.jpg


This is a 1.5 ohm coil using 30ga .999 pure silver leads, 32ga kanthal and 1mm x 1mm silver crimp tubes to hold the wires together.

Now it's time for a :vapor: break ;)
 

lorderos33

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Wow, that looks just like I imagined when I came up with this. Thank you lorderos for being the guinea pig and testing this idea.

Thanks for the idea Zor. I'm glad I tried it, it's exactly what I needed to make the silver wire work well and they are super cheap... BONUS!!!
 

fright88

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Wow thanks for the pics Lord. You mentioned silver wire is there any reason you can think of that this won't work with the stock Nickel wire?

Also and I am sorry if it was answered and I missed it but as to the mesh question since it is metal won't the contacts with the coil automatically cause a short?
 

lorderos33

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Wow thanks for the pics Lord. You mentioned silver wire is there any reason you can think of that this won't work with the stock Nickel wire?

Also and I am sorry if it was answered and I missed it but as to the mesh question since it is metal won't the contacts with the coil automatically cause a short?

It will definitely work work with the nickel wire. The main difference is that with the nickel wire it's nice to have, with the silver wire it's a must have. The silver is much softer than the nickel so it does not bend and garab the kanthal good enough without some help :)

The mesh will short with the wire if you do not oxidize the mesh. There are many videos here on ECF outlining the proper oxidation method for stainless, a quick search here or on youtube will get you the instructions. It's not too hard to do, heat the mesh to red hot with a lighter 3 times. Quench it quickly in water between each heating and you will see the mesh turn form metallic to black. It is not soot and does not come off easily. It makes the surface of the stainless mesh non-conductive and prevents the coil from shorting on the mesh.
 
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Zoranth

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Fright,

You need to oxidize the mesh after you have rolled it into the wick shape. You do this by heating it up with a lighter until it is glowing red hot, then dipping it in plain juice such as straight PG or VG. You could also do this in tap water but it is not as effective.

You can read more on using SS mesh here: SS Mesh Here

Wow thanks for the pics Lord. You mentioned silver wire is there any reason you can think of that this won't work with the stock Nickel wire?

Also and I am sorry if it was answered and I missed it but as to the mesh question since it is metal won't the contacts with the coil automatically cause a short?
 

Zoranth

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Plus the Silver wire is as close to ZERO resistance as you can get (unless you wanna pay for Pure Gold wire. The Nickel wire will still add a little bit of resistance (0.83 ohm/ft) to the overall setup. For example, you have a 1.5 ohm Kanthal Wire + 10cm of Nickel (.27 ohm) you actually end up with 1.77 ohm across the assembly.

It will definitely work work with the nickel wire. The main difference is that with the nickel wire it's nice to have, with the silver wire it's a must have. The silver is much softer than the nickel so it does not bend and garab the kanthal good enough without some help :)
 

lorderos33

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i'm using my iatty on my ggtb and the button is getting rather hot after 2 or more puffs chain vaping.. anyone else having this issue? 1.2 ohm at 3.7v..thats prolly why lol.

I had this problem before. Assuming you're using the fiberglass wick imeo sent with them vs a mesh wick, your problem is not the iAtty at all. You most likely need to clean the threads and button connections on your GG and reapply noalox or Vaseline, whatever you are using, to the threads and connections. That's what it was when it happened to me before anyway :)
 

thedudeabides

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i'm using my iatty on my ggtb and the button is getting rather hot after 2 or more puffs chain vaping.. anyone else having this issue? 1.2 ohm at 3.7v..thats prolly why lol.

I'd be careful, the button getting hot is usually the sign of a short. How hot was it getting?
 
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