Yes, definitely a requirement. without it the crimps will easily be twice as wide and not nearly as neat. The side cutter and a very light hand might work, but remember, these things are very soft and very small.
Iatty
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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Yes, definitely a requirement. without it the crimps will easily be twice as wide and not nearly as neat. The side cutter and a very light hand might work, but remember, these things are very soft and very small.
Four SS mesh wicks later and still no joy.
I am getting better at rolling them without kinks thanks to the vid link, cheers.
Every time after opening up the iAtty, to check why it isn't working properley, it seems only part of the coil is lighting up.
I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is now. After wrapping the coil and fitting the wick into the cup, with fair certainty I have not moved the wire too much on the wick, as to rub off the oxidization. Whilst connecting the lead wires is where I am disturbing the coil too much, I think. It is having to screw the plastic parts together and when they catch, they are pulling on the wire.
Would this cause only a partial fire along the coil?
Going to try and possibly start with the leads connected. Not sure if it a viable option, can't think straight atm through fizzled brain.
I have that problem quite often as well where the wire catches when you are tightening the parts together and distorts the coil. I am working on a fix for this and will send what I get to Imeo for when he gets back to possibly incorporate into the next batch along with a couple of other "improvements" I have thought of.
Four SS mesh wicks later and still no joy.
I am getting better at rolling them without kinks thanks to the vid link, cheers.
Every time after opening up the iAtty, to check why it isn't working properley, it seems only part of the coil is lighting up.
I'm pretty sure I know what the problem is now. After wrapping the coil and fitting the wick into the cup, with fair certainty I have not moved the wire too much on the wick, as to rub off the oxidization. Whilst connecting the lead wires is where I am disturbing the coil too much, I think. It is having to screw the plastic parts together and when they catch, they are pulling on the wire.
Would this cause only a partial fire along the coil?
Going to try and possibly start with the leads connected. Not sure if it a viable option, can't think straight atm through fizzled brain.
Still waiting on the xc-116, but I know the SS tastes better than the fiberglass wick. It does take some time to get it right, but if you stick with it and get good at rolling and oxidizing, it is well worth the effort.
Only the SS without the wick? The coil around the SS or over the coil?
I can say the XC-116 is just plain brilliant. I honestly think that atty makers should use this as the wicking material for their coils. Given how easy it is to use I am sure you are really going to like it when you get it. I have never had anything taste this...clean, for lack of a better word.
Hey Zor;
Would one of those improvements be to have an indention in the plastic where the wire needs to lay to get the plastics together easier and keep the wire in place? An issue I have is especially on the bottom plastic. When I wrap the wire around it once (bottom of top piece), in order to attach the bottom piece the wire loop around the plastic tends to wander slightly and then gets caught in the threads.
Come to find out this was the issue I had with the leaks from before. The wire was getting caught in the threads right at the end of tightening the bottom plastic.
Now I can lay iAtty on it's side or straight up and no leaks whatsoever.
I am definitely going to fire the wicks longer to give this another try. Might as well, I have 25' of the stuff.
No, not an indentation as it would be too hard to make sure the wire is lined up correctly. You will see soon, I have to get it drawn up and show it to Imeo.
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Well another two failed attempts today, getting frustrating. At least I am checking before filling up now, bit cleaner and easier. Though still fairly wasteful and time consuming, cutting and rolling the wick, oxidizing. Then making the wire. Putting it together as carefully as possible and fail. I only have enough non-resistance wire for one coil left now, so will just make a normal wicked iAtty up. Untill I get the silver wire, going to be fairly wasteful indeed, if I can't get it right with that.
I know it can work and know I will get there, maybe only with your alterations Zor.
If just a tiny part of the coil glows, than it is shorting somewhere else on the coil, yes?
Even if you don't get the wires caught in the thread, the tightening action still pulls on the wire, so a groove alone would not fix my problem.
I only have enough non-resistance wire for one coil left now, so will just make a normal wicked iAtty up. Untill I get the silver wire, going to be fairly wasteful indeed, if I can't get it right with that.I know it can work and know I will get there, maybe only with your alterations Zor.
If just a tiny part of the coil glows, than it is shorting somewhere else on the coil, yes?
Even if you don't get the wires caught in the thread, the tightening action still pulls on the wire, so a groove alone would not fix my problem.
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Well another two failed attempts today, getting frustrating. At least I am checking before filling up now, bit cleaner and easier. Though still fairly wasteful and time consuming, cutting and rolling the wick, oxidizing. Then making the wire. Putting it together as carefully as possible and fail.
I know it can work and know I will get there, maybe only with your alterations Zor.
If just a tiny part of the coil glows, than it is shorting somewhere else on the coil, yes?
Even if you don't get the wires caught in the thread, the tightening action still pulls on the wire, so a groove alone would not fix my problem.
Not necessarily, but a small bit glowing is usually a short. Sometimes it's just a dry coil
Sent from my Incredible using Tapatalk
Try this.....take a box cutter blade and make a slight cut into the plastic at the very top of the threaded part up against the large diameter section of the plastic piece. When you wrap the wire around the plastic make sure it is in the "channel" you cut. It's stays put when you tighten it down
Woohoo. Yes at last. Got the SS mesh working, very nice. Decided to go **** or bust with my last non-resistance wire and decided to put the standard wick, in at the sides again. Result. I am guessing after all these atempts that is where I was going wrong. Call me slow though I forgot it worked first time with the standard wick in to safe guard, just that I must of got a few stray bits on or near the coil, causing the burnt taste.
Anyway, I am convinced I was getting the short where the SS wick was pushed in at the sides, against the wires with the cone now and the little protection there has stopped it.
Enjoying plumes of georgous tasting vapour now.
One thing to note reguarding using the iAtty on the Don, my thread on the Don is pretty damaged now and the iAtty wobbles slightly. Imeo stated the iAtty may damage other mods and I can confirm this. The iAtty thread is perfect still. Even though I am pretty careful how I connect it each time, I believe the slight difference in thread and softness of the Dons connector has attributed to this.
Many thanks Lorderos, really happy now.
Anyway, I am convinced I was getting the short where the SS wick was pushed in at the sides, against the wires with the cone now and the little protection there has stopped it.
Enjoying plumes of georgous tasting vapour now.
One thing to note reguarding using the iAtty on the Don, my thread on the Don is pretty damaged now and the iAtty wobbles slightly. Imeo stated the iAtty may damage other mods and I can confirm this. The iAtty thread is perfect still. Even though I am pretty careful how I connect it each time, I believe the slight difference in thread and softness of the Dons connector has attributed to this.
Many thanks Lorderos, really happy now.
Woohoo. Yes at last. Got the SS mesh working, very nice. Decided to go **** or bust with my last non-resistance wire and decided to put the standard wick, in at the sides again. Result. I am guessing after all these atempts that is where I was going wrong. Call me slow though I forgot it worked first time with the standard wick in to safe guard, just that I must of got a few stray bits on or near the coil, causing the burnt taste.
Anyway, I am convinced I was getting the short where the SS wick was pushed in at the sides, against the wires with the cone now and the little protection there has stopped it.
Enjoying plumes of georgous tasting vapour now.
One thing to note reguarding using the iAtty on the Don, my thread on the Don is pretty damaged now and the iAtty wobbles slightly. Imeo stated the iAtty may damage other mods and I can confirm this. The iAtty thread is perfect still. Even though I am pretty careful how I connect it each time, I believe the slight difference in thread and softness of the Dons connector has attributed to this.
Many thanks Lorderos, really happy now.
My Alum GGTS has been around the block but age and the iAtty stripped out the threads on my connector also. Thank god for Imeo's awesome warrenty!!
Great!!!
I'm glad to hear you got it. I love the mesh wicks personally. They can be difficult at first, but like I always say, if the result is good it's worth the extra effort.
Using this setup you should not have to change it out for a long, long time. I've had good wraps last months on my other mods with almost no maintenance needed.
If the heat is not high enough on the coil, you will get some buildup on the mesh and coil, but it is easily remedied with a bath in some hot water. Just take the tank and cone off, dunk the ceramic part it in boiling hot water and swish it around for a little bit (10 - 20 seconds and then fire the coil while it's wet. Take it out of the water and let the excess water drip off then fire the coil again to dry it. Repeat as needed. It should come out clean as a whistle and the 32ga kanthal and stainless mesh are durable enough to handle this abuse easily. Just be careful not to get it so hot that it melts or damages the o-rings or plastic in the iAtty and you should be back in business in no time flat.
I'm glad to hear you got it. I love the mesh wicks personally. They can be difficult at first, but like I always say, if the result is good it's worth the extra effort.
Using this setup you should not have to change it out for a long, long time. I've had good wraps last months on my other mods with almost no maintenance needed.
If the heat is not high enough on the coil, you will get some buildup on the mesh and coil, but it is easily remedied with a bath in some hot water. Just take the tank and cone off, dunk the ceramic part it in boiling hot water and swish it around for a little bit (10 - 20 seconds and then fire the coil while it's wet. Take it out of the water and let the excess water drip off then fire the coil again to dry it. Repeat as needed. It should come out clean as a whistle and the 32ga kanthal and stainless mesh are durable enough to handle this abuse easily. Just be careful not to get it so hot that it melts or damages the o-rings or plastic in the iAtty and you should be back in business in no time flat.
Woohoo. Yes at last. Got the SS mesh working, very nice. Decided to go **** or bust with my last non-resistance wire and decided to put the standard wick, in at the sides again. Result. I am guessing after all these atempts that is where I was going wrong. Call me slow though I forgot it worked first time with the standard wick in to safe guard, just that I must of got a few stray bits on or near the coil, causing the burnt taste.
Anyway, I am convinced I was getting the short where the SS wick was pushed in at the sides, against the wires with the cone now and the little protection there has stopped it.
Enjoying plumes of georgous tasting vapour now.
One thing to note reguarding using the iAtty on the Don, my thread on the Don is pretty damaged now and the iAtty wobbles slightly. Imeo stated the iAtty may damage other mods and I can confirm this. The iAtty thread is perfect still. Even though I am pretty careful how I connect it each time, I believe the slight difference in thread and softness of the Dons connector has attributed to this.
Many thanks Lorderos, really happy now.
Brass connector from other mods vs SS threads on iAtty. SS threads will win. Plus the part that protrudes from the middle of the iAtty connector has no give to it at all so it would be easy to mess up a mods threads.
That's what I am afraid too. I also have the older Aluminium GGTS. And because I have to leave a small distance between Iatty and cap for the airflow, the Iatty always moves a little. That couldn't be good for the threads. I hope the GGStealth will come soon and I can buy one of his caps. In the meantime I will order a 801to510 Adapter to use the Iatty with the 801-connector of my GGTS. It will look strange, but maybe it is better for the threads.
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