Innokin iSub RBA Kit!!!!
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I just don't use my isub all that much. I mainly put them on the 40w kbox because it's indestructible, for when I go paintballing, that way, I don't have to worry about anything getting broken.
Not that there's anything wrong with the tanks, I've just moved to RTA' S.
The isub rba works fantastic, but it is a bit of a pain to build.
Not that there's anything wrong with the tanks, I've just moved to RTA' S.
The isub rba works fantastic, but it is a bit of a pain to build.
I just rebuilt a 2 ohm stock coil. Easier than the older Protank or Aspire coils. 6 wraps 30ga 2.4mm showing 1.7 for now. Wicked with rayon.
No need for the rba at this point.
No need for the rba at this point.
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Isn't it kind of a pain taking the stock coils apart? I just dry burn and rewick them. I've gotten about 3 months average on mine.
I've given up on the bra for this, just too fiddly for my large fingers. The iSub is a great simple tank and I like to keep it simple!
Hey Vinnybagodoughnuts, How is it going with you bud?
I've given up on the bra for this, just too fiddly for my large fingers. The iSub is a great simple tank and I like to keep it simple!
Hey Vinnybagodoughnuts, How is it going with you bud?
Well you won't believe it but the early version has not leaked a drop of juice and I have been using the rba for 2 weeks now. I am using it with 70 vg which is about as thin as I dare put in it. I am using a 2.5 diameter coil cut the wick a little longer and stuffed some back in the holes. I am pretty happy with it actually but building can be finicky/fiddly. I can't say I am happy with Innokins customer service though and will not be purchasing anything else from them. Thanks for asking Stegle I am great how about yourself? What other tanks you using? I just got a Lemo2 for 20.00$ and so far am really liking it.
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I needed to fill out an order a little last night and saw them for $7.50, so I grabbed a couple.
I've been slowly shifting to SS TC so my iSub tanks have been sitting idle, and that first draw of the day with it's gunshot pop gives me fits anyway.
Besides... it was about time I ordered them, the four tanks are almost a year old.
I've been slowly shifting to SS TC so my iSub tanks have been sitting idle, and that first draw of the day with it's gunshot pop gives me fits anyway.
Besides... it was about time I ordered them, the four tanks are almost a year old.
I think it's the juice I DIY. I don't like more than 30 VG so my juice is thin. I never tried anything smaller than 3 mm so that might be worth trying to reduce. I'm glad you're having success with it though. I still use the stock .5 and the clapton heads to just dry burn and rewick when needed. They work fine with my juice.
Oh well, it works great in my Kanger sub tank mini's, my Aspire cleito is coming, and I'm waiting for the Joyetech cubis to arrive also.
How do you like the Lemo2? I had considered that one but never ordered one.
I hear you about the CS at Innokin. It took me a week to hear back from them, I know they're busy but you have to take care of your customer or they'll go elsewhere...you said:
"Innokins customer service though and will not be purchasing anything else from them."
I just watched a Pbusardo review on the Cubis, and he states that Innokin is releasing something soon that is going to be something really big. He can't say right now any more than that. The video was from 1/26/16 and he said as soon as he can, he will announce the news.
So many new things to drool over and spend on, I love it. Take care
They've been promising their proprietary connector temp sensor TC mod and coil head since last fall. Launch estimate has always been, well... now. March basically. So... any day now.
Like the Lemo2 but for 2 things I would love it. One the juice fill hole is too small for my eye droppers and 2 the funky bends of the coil. I haven't rebuilt it yet as it came with a prebuilt coil in it. I think I will try to use the screws to capture the wire instead of the holes to avoid fiddling.lol
Let us know how you like the Cleito and the Cubis.
Let us know how you like the Cleito and the Cubis.
Today I took a look at the stock .5 coil and found that it doesn't have the same construction as the 2.0 coil. The 2.0 has a slot where the wick goes that is all the way to the top cap. Pull out the top cap and you can place your mandrel with coil down into the cylinder for assembly. Looks more difficult with the .5 and only holes for the wick in the cylinder.
I will but it could be a few weeks as they're coming from China. I've heard good things about them both so I'm looking forward to using them and forming my own opinion.
Hi all,
been a while since I posted. I've had the iSub RBA for a couple of weeks now and tested about 10 coils.
I'm having leaking issues. I use the iSub tank (not G). Where the RBA or atomiser slides into the base of the tank, there is an embedded o-ring in the wall that the RBA slides past to be fitted. I think this gets loose or worn - is there any replacement o-ring for this part and where can I get it?
Other than that, I think you have to get the wicking really perfect to make it work well without leaks. I started measuring the Muji cotton to see what size leads to no leaks. The lighter the wicking the better the flavour but more leaks.
Let us document this to help each other. My current measurements of Muji cotton (it comes in different thicknesses though):
> 11mm wide strip cut then rolled and threaded tight through the coil
> 5mm left sticking out of each hole, then spit guard screwed on, then pushing wick in flush with the little blue screwdriver
No leaks in about an hour. Mod is vertical. Air holes at half open. 50/50 juice. 14W 1.6 ohm using 5 wraps of 28g Kanthal A1.
Also, don't forget to dry burn the coil before wicking. I'm not priming the coils at all just screwing to the tank and then spinning the assembled and filled tank around in a clean sock for about ten spins to test for leaks and to prime the wick.
EDIT: I use two o-rings at the 510 connection to prevent leakage there.
been a while since I posted. I've had the iSub RBA for a couple of weeks now and tested about 10 coils.
I'm having leaking issues. I use the iSub tank (not G). Where the RBA or atomiser slides into the base of the tank, there is an embedded o-ring in the wall that the RBA slides past to be fitted. I think this gets loose or worn - is there any replacement o-ring for this part and where can I get it?
Other than that, I think you have to get the wicking really perfect to make it work well without leaks. I started measuring the Muji cotton to see what size leads to no leaks. The lighter the wicking the better the flavour but more leaks.
Let us document this to help each other. My current measurements of Muji cotton (it comes in different thicknesses though):
> 11mm wide strip cut then rolled and threaded tight through the coil
> 5mm left sticking out of each hole, then spit guard screwed on, then pushing wick in flush with the little blue screwdriver
No leaks in about an hour. Mod is vertical. Air holes at half open. 50/50 juice. 14W 1.6 ohm using 5 wraps of 28g Kanthal A1.
Also, don't forget to dry burn the coil before wicking. I'm not priming the coils at all just screwing to the tank and then spinning the assembled and filled tank around in a clean sock for about ten spins to test for leaks and to prime the wick.
EDIT: I use two o-rings at the 510 connection to prevent leakage there.
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I was planning to build my first tonight or tomorrow.
That's quite the fat mandrel... 3.5mm ?
I'll use either 24 or 26g 316, so I'll have to look at the numbers for that large an ID.
I don't see an exit hole for the second leg. Do you just learn how long to cut it.
Maybe I'll practice later with one of the included coils. Set it up as a template.
What else... oh, the O-ring(s). Let us know if using a second shows improvement for you.
Changing too many variables at once makes it harder to pinpoint trouble spots.
I expect I'll start with just one and see how bad the leaking is first.
eta: The sock-as-centrifuge makes for a funny visual. Clever though.
That's quite the fat mandrel... 3.5mm ?
I'll use either 24 or 26g 316, so I'll have to look at the numbers for that large an ID.
I don't see an exit hole for the second leg. Do you just learn how long to cut it.
Maybe I'll practice later with one of the included coils. Set it up as a template.
What else... oh, the O-ring(s). Let us know if using a second shows improvement for you.
Changing too many variables at once makes it harder to pinpoint trouble spots.
I expect I'll start with just one and see how bad the leaking is first.
eta: The sock-as-centrifuge makes for a funny visual. Clever though.
Just a short post and a bump for the thread...
I finally got around to building one a couple days ago (Wed?).
It's a pure-bred beeyatch that first time, but I can see several handling mistake that I won't make again so it may be perfectly fine a few builds down the road.
I wrestled the coil in, despite the half mangled legs thanks to inexperience.
A big fat ID 26g 316 at 0.61. Still early days but no leaks, no dry hits.
That's the RBA/RTA wicking fine line I have such trouble with.
Since I finally bought a "big bag o' Muji", I figured I'd play with a modest version of the Scottish Roll. Not so tight as the full treatment, but still a new thing for me.
Got the tails poofy and tucked into the juice holes and it's working very well.
I've still got the snap & crackle but for the first time, I don't get that insane toy paper cap "BANG!" from the first firing of the day with an iSub. Wicking or RBA design? Don't know.
The reported leaking may still crop up as the wicking ages, but so far... so good.
Nice to get the iSubs rockin' again... they've been feeling neglected.
I just may finally use my G, it's sat for almost a year.
Gotta find the DT though... I think it's on the Velocity.
I finally got around to building one a couple days ago (Wed?).
It's a pure-bred beeyatch that first time, but I can see several handling mistake that I won't make again so it may be perfectly fine a few builds down the road.
I wrestled the coil in, despite the half mangled legs thanks to inexperience.
A big fat ID 26g 316 at 0.61. Still early days but no leaks, no dry hits.
That's the RBA/RTA wicking fine line I have such trouble with.
Since I finally bought a "big bag o' Muji", I figured I'd play with a modest version of the Scottish Roll. Not so tight as the full treatment, but still a new thing for me.
Got the tails poofy and tucked into the juice holes and it's working very well.
I've still got the snap & crackle but for the first time, I don't get that insane toy paper cap "BANG!" from the first firing of the day with an iSub. Wicking or RBA design? Don't know.
The reported leaking may still crop up as the wicking ages, but so far... so good.
Nice to get the iSubs rockin' again... they've been feeling neglected.
I just may finally use my G, it's sat for almost a year.
Gotta find the DT though... I think it's on the Velocity.
Good luck Jim mine is still holding up after 4 tank fulls but its about time to change it.
It's too soon to think about changing this one (I've got a 2nd unopened though) but it occurs that I bought a couple of tubes of Wotofo Comp coils (Clapton III & Tiger Wire) with and for my Bachelor.
But that RTA needs a full width coil so I still haven't used the Wotofos.
And most of my RTA decks are Velocity style so that's not really good either.
This RBA may be a very good test bed for them.
But that RTA needs a full width coil so I still haven't used the Wotofos.
And most of my RTA decks are Velocity style so that's not really good either.
This RBA may be a very good test bed for them.
I had to bump this thread because I'm wondering when the other shoe is going to drop.
It's been ~9 days on the first and 7 with the second, and... no leaks.
And this isn't my usual piss-poor over wicking with dry hits.
I've got a simple SS in the first and a Wotofo Tiger Wire in the second, and they're both producing beautifully... with no dry hits... and no leaks.
Yes... that installation is beyond fiddly. But when do they turn evil on me?
It's been ~9 days on the first and 7 with the second, and... no leaks.
And this isn't my usual piss-poor over wicking with dry hits.
I've got a simple SS in the first and a Wotofo Tiger Wire in the second, and they're both producing beautifully... with no dry hits... and no leaks.
Yes... that installation is beyond fiddly. But when do they turn evil on me?
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