Introducing the Precise WorkHorse from Super-T

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quendelyn

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Hi Q! Did the note a couple replies back help? I also have a pic on pg 233 of the "Official pic" thread. Sorry you have to search but I haven't mastered uploading photos (obviously).
As far as height, the topper and drip tip I'm using is almost exactly as tall as the 18350. The WH 18350 is quite a bit shorter than my Precise 13, but of course has more diameter.
Good day!

Hi,
Yes it helped! I got my 18350 today. Really like it. I love the way the P10 feels in my hand, but this is fine also. Thanks for your help!
 

oplholik

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Just wondering, before I started messing with it, with an efest, or an AW batt there is a gap between the top cap and the body that's approx. 1/2mm. What you remove in the way of washer, or o-ring to adjust it so that there is no gap.

WH1.jpg
 

quendelyn

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You and that P10...How's the 10440 battery life/power treating you? :laugh:

Hi Riverboat,
Yup, what can I say, love the P10. Battery life is short, 2 hours with efest imrs. My coils built at 1.7 ohms. Hits hard for those 2 hours though. I'd be in heaven if they made a 10440 that lasted 4 hours like the aw's did. Now I alternate with the Workhorse, but P10 always for out and about.
 

oplholik

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I'm have trouble adjusting the center pin up to the RBA I'm using. The brass screw is sooo tight in the delrin threaded part that it's really difficult to adjust. I don't want to use pliers to hold the SS part even with a cushion between the plier jaws and the SS part. Is there anything that can be done to loosen that pin up so it will turn more easily?

Actually, maybe I should just wait till they send out the replacement center post to the brass, as it might have a looser fit.
 
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forcedfuel50

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I'm have trouble adjusting the center pin up to the RBA I'm using. The brass screw is sooo tight in the delrin threaded part that it's really difficult to adjust. I don't want to use pliers to hold the SS part even with a cushion between the plier jaws and the SS part. Is there anything that can be done to loosen that pin up so it will turn more easily?

Actually, maybe I should just wait till they send out the replacement center post to the brass, as it might have a looser fit.

They can be a bit snug at first. Rather then turn it in, screw it out, blow off the threads, screw it back in. Do that twice and it'll go in and out easy for you.
 

forcedfuel50

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So I took my Worhorse on a 4 hour drive to Sacramento with a vivi nova as a topper. Nice stress-free travel, no battery change and no dripping. Nice! Perfect for long drives, think I'll call it my Road Hog.

Sounds like a Workhorse to me :)
 

Nikkolas

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Hello all. I have a question for workhorse owners.

I've been having problems with my switch and bottom contact. David was kind enough to send me a second bottom contact as I bent the original slightly after using a screwdriver that was too small. The connection has improved, but I'm still having issues with the switch. I have to hit it in just the right spot to get it to fire at full voltage.

I have a set of magnets installed, but I tried putting the spring back in and it fires just the same. I'm also getting marks on the batteries and bottom contact (from arcing?). I'm wondering if anyone else has a similar problem, and if they were able to fix it. I really want to love this mod, it's very well made and my only authentic at the moment. I've set it down in favor of one of my clones because I can't stand having to spin the switch trying to find just the right spot to press. If I just press it casually, it fires--but it's very weak.

I really can't figure it out, the tolerances are so tight it seems like the contact should be hitting the battery flush. I'm using a 454 big block RDA. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated!
 
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