Is it safe to use mechanical mods - to subohm?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bimini Twist

Twisted Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 27, 2012
1,661
5,843
67
Redneck Riviera
www.mboyd.com
I use a Fluke 87V. I also have a really cool on with a gorilla on the front of it. As for exaggeration, I do not buy everyday, though I spent $18,000 on eBay in the month of October alone. (Check out eBay user ID Dlucas1958). As for more verification, contact the owner of Silver Wolf Customs and ask him about the collection of a guy named Bill in College Station, Texas (1.7022079082) or Aggieland Vapors at (979) 703-6817, or the largest vape store in Hawaii, talk to the owner at 818-631-4946, or Tarsius Customs on Facebook. I don't BS folks. Some consider my collection the largest in the world.

OK, big collection and a good multimeter. Are you using a circuit or something to give you sub ohm accuracy beyond .1Ω resolution?

Range (lowest)ResolutionAccuracy
600.0Ω0.1Ω±(0.2% + 2)

I've been thinking about getting a milliohm meter or building something that will utilize the higher VDC accuracy of my Fluke 77 Series II meter. But then again, the DNA40 may make this moot, so I'll likely wait it out a bit.
 

wshanncap

Super Member
Verified Member
Oct 28, 2014
727
336
Ohio, USA
Not sure if you had a question or if that was just your way of making an intro. I admire the fact that you want to be safe. And cleaning your gear, especially contacts is something everyone should do for a number of reasons...even ego users. Other than that you made little sense. You don't go below .16? I don't go that low. You don't buy from China but you buy Sony batteries? I wouldn't buy a sony anything. You don't buy clones? I guess if it blows up you want it to be worth the money. You don't build a coil for cloud chasing but you build at .16? I can get a respectable cloud from a .97 at 4.8 volts. Don't put it in your pocket? That is what a lockout is for. Kinda like a safety on a firearm. Why did you post this stuff? :glare:
 
Not sure if you had a question or if that was just your way of making an intro. I admire the fact that you want to be safe. And cleaning your gear, especially contacts is something everyone should do for a number of reasons...even ego users. Other than that you made little sense. You don't go below .16? I don't go that low. You don't buy from China but you buy Sony batteries? I wouldn't buy a sony anything. You don't buy clones? I guess if it blows up you want it to be worth the money. You don't build a coil for cloud chasing but you build at .16? I can get a respectable cloud from a .97 at 4.8 volts. Don't put it in your pocket? That is what a lockout is for. Kinda like a safety on a firearm. Why did you post this stuff? :glare:

Not an introduction, most people who have been in the industry for any length of time, already know me because I buy from a lot of people. The topic of this post is what people consider safe practices in subohming. Not really a question because anything below .5 becomes more of an opinion than a fact. I am sorry that you don't like Sony. As for buying Chinese products, I have a few that came out of China and I really did not elaborate well on what I mean by not buying things from China. I apologize for that. I have bought clones but learned real quick that the majority of them are junk and thus I stopped doing it. As for locking rings, the locking ring on the particular mod I did it with was on and it worked loose in my pocket. I will say it again, it is not a smart idea to keep your mod in your pocket.

For record, I am sorry if I offended anyone with this post. I don't have an ego problem and yes I am proud of the collection I have amassed over the past four months but not trying to brag about it....well maybe a little.... I truly love mechanical mods and I enjoy talking to others who like to subohm and collect mods.
 
OK, big collection and a good multimeter. Are you using a circuit or something to give you sub ohm accuracy beyond .1Ω resolution?

Range (lowest)ResolutionAccuracy
600.0Ω0.1Ω±(0.2% + 2)

I've been thinking about getting a milliohm meter or building something that will utilize the higher VDC accuracy of my Fluke 77 Series II meter. But then again, the DNA40 may make this moot, so I'll likely wait it out a bit.

I am not familiar with any multimeters that will give you an accurate reading past .1Ω and I have not built a circuit to try and compensate for it. I have a couple of good multimeters and some decent devices that were made for checking ohm readings on RDA's. When I go below .3, I use two of three of them to compare readings and try to come up with a mean to give me a fairly close idea where I am at.
 
To the OP: I commend you for having a vast collection of mods and atomizers, and support for the original makers. Try to learn the limits of what you have and you'll be fine.

Safety is never guaranteed, ask any professional risk analyst.

Thank you for your comments. I certainly understand risk analysis. I am a long time member of the International Society of Six Sigma professionals and have been a black belt in Six Sigma (ASQ & Gembutsu) since 1993.
 

Susan~S

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 12, 2014
16,937
11,694
68
Mpls/St.Paul, MN
I don't know if I agree with you about most batteries rated at 35a are rewraps, but if your correct, I got a bunch of C5's that were shoved up my posterior sideways, if they are not 35a rated authentic's

There is no such thing as a 35A continuous 18650 battery that anyone can confirm by independent testing. Every 35A battery i have heard about is really 20A continuous. This is a blog post by Baditude (our battery/safety expert) on the purple EFest: Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
 

Bimini Twist

Twisted Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 27, 2012
1,661
5,843
67
Redneck Riviera
www.mboyd.com
FWIW, I have a couple of Nanos mechanicals that have a fantastic locking ring - except that they are NOT pocket friendly, not even shirt pocket friendly. I love how easy they are to lock/unlock, but that has proven to be a bad thing on more than one occasion for me.

P.S. I forgot to mention that I haven't had my Fluke 77 calibrated since I bought it soooo long ago. That's another factor in my decision to buy a mOhm meter or build a circuit for the 77. I haven't checked, but I suspect calibration + circuit build might come close to the cost of a mid-price mΩ meter.

Or go down the DNA40 path instead?...
 
Last edited:
So that's where all the sony's went... into your trash... Why would you toss a battery after 90 days if you haven't noticed any performance/charging/structural issues? I'm honestly curious on that one, what was the rationale besides wanting you to buy more batteries?

I may very well be trashing them too soon, but I have only been at this four months now and I trust the person explicitly who told me to do so. I would rather trash a battery after three months than take the chance of using one that is not at its fullest potential. Since you have mentioned it, I am going to do some hard research on that subject.

How long do you keep your batteries for?
 
FWIW, I have a couple of Nanos mechanicals that have a fantastic locking ring - except that they are NOT pocket friendly, not even shirt pocket friendly. I love how easy they are to lock/unlock, but that has proven to be a bad thing on more than one occasion for me.

P.S. I forgot to mention that I haven't had my Fluke 77 calibrated since I bought it soooo long ago. That's another factor in my decision to buy a mOhm meter or build a circuit for the 77. I haven't checked, but I suspect calibration + circuit build might come close to the cost of a mid-price mΩ meter.

Or go down the DNA40 path instead?...

I have an older Fluke 77 too. Great meter for the buck back then. I highly recommend that 87v and if you shop the internet, you can get a pretty good deal on one. I let a brand new one go on eBay for 250.00 last month, but I got it as a reward for graduating first in my class on a Rockwell Automation PLC class I took a couple years back.
 
FWIW, I have a couple of Nanos mechanicals that have a fantastic locking ring - except that they are NOT pocket friendly, not even shirt pocket friendly. I love how easy they are to lock/unlock, but that has proven to be a bad thing on more than one occasion for me.

P.S. I forgot to mention that I haven't had my Fluke 77 calibrated since I bought it soooo long ago. That's another factor in my decision to buy a mOhm meter or build a circuit for the 77. I haven't checked, but I suspect calibration + circuit build might come close to the cost of a mid-price mΩ meter.

Or go down the DNA40 path instead?...

The most secure locking ring I have seen to date is on the Inovape Liberty mod. It is really slick and hard to unlock by accident because it is recessed in to the tube. Check this out:

iberty.jpg

@EVERYONE

If your looking for a solid hitter that is extremely well machined for under 200.00 dollars, the Liberty is a great everyday mod.
 

Asbestos4004

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 11, 2013
6,802
28,169
Sugar Hill, Georgia
I feel recycling batteries every 90 days is excellent. The problem is recycling them properly. Its dangerous to just toss them in the trash. I'm quite confident you're a busy man. It is with the utmost sincerity that I offer my services to you as a fellow vaper. Send me your batteries after 90 days and I will make sure they are disposed of within the guidelines set forth by the manufacturer. No need to thank me, I just like giving back to the community whenever possible.
 

Lessifer

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 5, 2013
8,309
28,986
Sacramento, California
I may very well be trashing them too soon, but I have only been at this four months now and I trust the person explicitly who told me to do so. I would rather trash a battery after three months than take the chance of using one that is not at its fullest potential. Since you have mentioned it, I am going to do some hard research on that subject.

How long do you keep your batteries for?

I only vape in the high sub-ohm range, usually 0.8-1ohm. I have four batteries that I use mainly, two vtc4s that are a little over a year old, and two purple efests that are about 6 months old. With the way that I vape, a full charge lasts me almost two days, so four is plenty for my rotation. Every time I take a battery out of a mod I check the voltage to make sure I haven't dropped too low(usually it'a about 3.75v when I feel it's time for a change) and I inspect the battery for any signs of damage. I also check the voltage when I pull it off the charger and I've yet to have one that hasn't charged fully. My vtc4's consistently charge to 4.23v and my efests to 4.24v. I have only ever sent one battery off to recycling, and that was because after I dropped my mod there was slight swelling on the negative end of the battery.

I'm due to add two more batteries to my rotation, but I've been waiting for a suitable replacement to the sony's, the newer AW's seem like a good fit.

Batteries, if nothing is done to damage them should have well over 300 charge cycles(I don't know the actual number) so pitching them after 90 days of use is simply wasteful. Now, if you abuse your batteries by consistently drawing over their continuous amp rating, that will probably shorten their life span.
 
Best locking switch IMO is on "the Don" and Mako.

P1010469_zpsb094fda9.jpg


See the little ball between the switch haves?
Half turn and it lines up with a lock out detent, another half turn and it lines up with a deeper detent that allows it to fire.

I have not seen that mod before. Who makes it? I like that drip tip as well. Very nice rig!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread