itaste VTR

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jpcwon

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Here's a couple pics of the fixed ring (cross grooves and the 2 holes). The color on my ring (fixed) is also the same as the extension tube, not matching the chrome/silver of the main VTR case.View attachment 296003View attachment 296005

Yep, that's exactly what mine looks like. It was quite a pleasant surprise to open the box and find that the ring was fixed (I was told that it was roatating by the seller).

I did notice one thing, though. It seems that the VTR is often off by .1 Ohms as far as what it reads versus what the coil is rated at. Is this normal? Should I be concerned about this? Sometimes it's right, but for instance I am running a BCC Mega at 1.8 Ohms right now, and the VTR is reading it at 1.9......doesn't seem like a huge deal, but I figured I'd ask anyway....
 

jpcwon

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with a non rotating wheel because the vendor used super glue to stop the rotation!

Possible, yes, but my "wheel" has the air channel grooves machined into it (a feature that only the "fixed" version has AFAIK)....What I do doubt, though, is your notion that ALL of the fixed-wheel VTR's are "rejects"....I thought that it was simply innokin's attempt at resolving a known issue with the previous incarnation of the VTR.

I also doubt that ALL of the "spinny 510 conn." VTR's had problems, so consider yourself one of the lucky ones!! :)
 

Obi Wan Vapori

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Well mine came in today and I got one with the rotating ring, which kind of bummed me out but I have to say no problems so far. Finally found a mod that likes my protank 2 that came with my ProVari. The thing hardly worked on the ProVari (even with the slots machined into the base). Worked good on my Proto vape but it really shines on the VTR. Cranks out lots of vape even with the power turned down. Running a 2.1 ohm coil at 3.6 volts and it is chugging right along.
 

AgtDALLAS

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Well mine came in today and I got one with the rotating ring, which kind of bummed me out but I have to say no problems so far. Finally found a mod that likes my protank 2 that came with my ProVari. The thing hardly worked on the ProVari (even with the slots machined into the base). Worked good on my Proto Vape but it really shines on the VTR. Cranks out lots of vape even with the power turned down. Running a 2.1 ohm coil at 3.6 volts and it is chugging right along.

Where did you order from? i have one in the mail. Didnt learn about the issue til after i ordered. Good price but fingers crossed this wasnt the reason why haha.
 

Obi Wan Vapori

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Where did you order from? i have one in the mail. Didnt learn about the issue til after i ordered. Good price but fingers crossed this wasnt the reason why haha.

Mount Baker Vapor. Was pricy, 120 bucks but it came with a battery and a bottle of juice. Even with that it was a tad pricy. Think if I run into the wheel problem I am going to pick up a can of that spray electronics contact cleaner. Years ago used to use it on old guitar amps and it worked really well. Think I got it at Radio Shack.
 

AgtDALLAS

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Mount Baker Vapor. Was pricy, 120 bucks but it came with a battery and a bottle of juice. Even with that it was a tad pricy. Think if I run into the wheel problem I am going to pick up a can of that spray electronics contact cleaner. Years ago used to use it on old guitar amps and it worked really well. Think I got it at Radio Shack.

Nice, I am a bit of a tinkerer myself so I am not too worried. Grabbed mine from eciggity. Hoping it gets in before the holiday Monday.


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awsum140

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Mount Baker Vapor. Was pricy, 120 bucks but it came with a battery and a bottle of juice. Even with that it was a tad pricy. Think if I run into the wheel problem I am going to pick up a can of that spray electronics contact cleaner. Years ago used to use it on old guitar amps and it worked really well. Think I got it at Radio Shack.

Remember, you don't vape with a guitar. Be careful what cleaning agents you use IF you get a rotating 510 connector version. The air used for vaping flows through that connector so any fumes left by a cleaning agent end up in your lungs. Just sayin.....
 

Obi Wan Vapori

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Yep, that's exactly what mine looks like. It was quite a pleasant surprise to open the box and find that the ring was fixed (I was told that it was roatating by the seller).

I did notice one thing, though. It seems that the VTR is often off by .1 Ohms as far as what it reads versus what the coil is rated at. Is this normal? Should I be concerned about this? Sometimes it's right, but for instance I am running a BCC Mega at 1.8 Ohms right now, and the VTR is reading it at 1.9......doesn't seem like a huge deal, but I figured I'd ask anyway....


My Protovapor XPV does the same thing. I have even noticed it jumping up and down .1 of an ohm as I am vaping. Minor variations caused by juice/temperature perhaps even rounding that the chip does. In the long run .1 ohm really is not going to effect the experience of the vape much.
 

awsum140

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I think the variation in ohm readings is caused by the current flow through the connector. It can actually "clean" the connection if the oxidation is too bad and that would change the total resistance reading seen by the device. When I rebuild heads for CE3s, T3s and Protanks, I see that effect. If I check them with a DVM/DMM or carto-ohm meter some can read over three ohms. The same reading happens on a Vamo. Then if I fire the Vamo, they drop down to 2.2 to 2.5 ohms, right where I would expect them to be on all my meters.

Also, keep in mind that none of these devices, including Provari, are traceable to National Bureau of Standards for accuracy. Varitions will happen just as a result of component tolerances and battery conditions.
 

Obi Wan Vapori

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Remember, you don't vape with a guitar. Be careful what cleaning agents you use IF you get a rotating 510 connector version. The air used for vaping flows through that connector so any fumes left by a cleaning agent end up in your lungs. Just sayin.....

I hear ya there. Hopefully will not run into any problems. Would clean the connector with alcohol good after it dried anyway. And would only spray under the ring.

But... do recall putting my cigarettes under the strings by the tuning keys like Keath Richards and taking a puff now and then. Now take a clip hanger for a broom. Screw it onto the top of the guitar...
 

wjosephsimmons

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Thankfully I purchased my VTR from a reliable vendor.
My rotating wheel is functioning perfectly...
Perhaps your VTR is a factory reject...with a non rotating wheel because the vendor used super glue to stop the rotation!
As far as I am concerned... Those VTRS that don't rotate...are rejects.

Possible, yes, but my "wheel" has the air channel grooves machined into it (a feature that only the "fixed" version has AFAIK)....What I do doubt, though, is your notion that ALL of the fixed-wheel VTR's are "rejects"....I thought that it was simply Innokin's attempt at resolving a known issue with the previous incarnation of the VTR.

I also doubt that ALL of the "spinny 510 conn." VTR's had problems, so consider yourself one of the lucky ones!! :)

Sorry to disagree, TRoxx, but they're definitely not rejects, that's for sure. It's not a vendor issue. The redesigned VTR with the fixed wheel below the tank began appearing in December sales of the item at Fast tech and probably around then from other retailers, too. From what I have read on other threads, it was introduced to resolve a serious issue with grossly incorrect and totally random ohm readings, reducing the VTR to VV use only and preventing successful VW use entirely. Now this was not the case on all the originals with the spinning wheel, just on some of them. I just confirmed with one eBay retailer today who told me that in his new stock from Innokin "the wheel is indeed not rotatable on the VTRs. I just double-checked this on the latest shipment of them we received". There is a video on Youtube posted 12/07/13 that illustrates the redesigned 510 connection well called "Innokin itaste VTR (redesigned version)" by Carl Richardson in which he points it out at about 4:22 minute mark.

Innokin itaste VTR (redesigned version) - YouTube

Below is from the fast tech discussion forum:

What version is being sold?: FastTech Forums
 

SteelerFan

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Thankfully I purchased my VTR from a reliable vendor.
My rotating wheel is functioning perfectly...
Perhaps your VTR is a factory reject...with a non rotating wheel because the vendor used super glue to stop the rotation!
As far as I am concerned... Those VTRS that don't rotate...are rejects.

Superglue lol thats funny.... There is another thread and we've been having the same spinning connection convo


I'm on my iPhone
 

SteelerFan

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Hello everyone! I just purchased my VTR yesterday. This is my first VV so I'm still learning. How long should a EH brand IMR18650NP 30amp, 1600mah 3.7 volt battery last before needing charged? I charged it all night last night, put in in my VTR at approx 11:30am this morning and I was getting the red light saying it's almost dead by 10pm tonight.... I haven't used it no more than I used my Joyetech eGo-T2 but it's already needing charged...? I need a battery that will atleast last a day or so without charging 2x a day, any suggestions? Help please...



 

wjosephsimmons

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Hello everyone! I just purchased my VTR yesterday. This is my first VV so I'm still learning. How long should a EH brand IMR18650NP 30amp, 1600mah 3.7 volt battery last before needing charged? I charged it all night last night, put in in my VTR at approx 11:30am this morning and I was getting the red light saying it's almost dead by 10pm tonight.... I haven't used it no more than I used my Joyetech eGo-T2 but it's already needing charged...? I need a battery that will atleast last a day or so without charging 2x a day, any suggestions? Help please...



I'm still waiting for my new VTR to come in the mail, so I'm no authority, but I beleive that 1600 mah is too low a rating for the VTR. See Baditude's excellent post here (#3) on another thread in response to someone asking basically the same question:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...4-question-about-itaste-vtr.html#post11709776
 

awsum140

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Hello everyone! I just purchased my VTR yesterday. This is my first VV so I'm still learning. How long should a EH brand IMR18650NP 30amp, 1600mah 3.7 volt battery last before needing charged? I charged it all night last night, put in in my VTR at approx 11:30am this morning and I was getting the red light saying it's almost dead by 10pm tonight.... I haven't used it no more than I used my Joyetech eGo-T2 but it's already needing charged...? I need a battery that will atleast last a day or so without charging 2x a day, any suggestions? Help please...




Trying to describe battery life by time is kind of hard since everybody vapes at different rates and lengths of inhale. I get about a day out of a 2000mah CGR18650CH. I would expect a 1600mah to last me about 3/4 of a day. A day for me means about 5ml of liquid. I'd look into getting some Panasonic or AW batteries, they are both considered among the best while EH and Efest are kind of lower down the scale.

If you charged that battery all night with those kind of results I would strongly suggest that you get a quality charger like an Xtar VP1 or NiteCore IntelliCharger. It sounds to me like your charger ain't cuttin' the mustard. My VP1 takes about two hours to fully charge my CRG18650CHs.

Do some research on lithium batteries and chargers so you understand what is going on. Given the tremendous amount of power they can generate under the wrong conditions, it's a good thing to understand the hazards and how to treat them properly. For example, assuming that your EH battery can actually produce what it is rated at, under dead short conditions it can generate over 100watts of power. That's enough to cause some very serious overheating at the very least. Badattitude is pretty much an expert and has great advice.

Incidentally, super gluing the spinning wheel would not cure the wandering ohms problem, it would only cement it into being a problem. The problem is caused by poor contact between the spinning wheel and the "brushes" that supply the contact. Gluing things in place would insure that, eventually, it would become a major problem. Cleaning things is the only real cure unless the brushes are just not making a strong enough contact to the wheel.
 
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