itaste VTR
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Thank you for clarifying this, awsum140. I wasn't entirely sure, but it is difficult to be the bearer of bad news when you are as pleased as I am with the performance of your own particular unit. While I didn't want to be excessively negative in my response, it is more important that the OP knows what to expect.
I've been lucky with mine and have managed to avoid any real problems, so far. I did buy two more with the fixed tank mount, one for my wife and one for a friend and they are both performing flawlessly. When I got mine, with the rotating mount, I immediately recognized it as a built-in failure point similar to the magnetic head of the VV-V2. Electrical connections that rely on any form of "brush" will eventually fail, especially if you can't get at them to effectively clean them. It's just a question of time.
I just got mine - used - and have the same problem. Just out of curiosity, what was innokin's response?
Also, thanks for the info and solution. You all are awesome. Just wondering about the company itself. No response? Screw you response? Sorry, we screwed up but please give us more money in the future response?
Also, thanks for the info and solution. You all are awesome. Just wondering about the company itself. No response? Screw you response? Sorry, we screwed up but please give us more money in the future response?
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I never contacted Innokin, but their response has been to eliminate the problem with future production. I have no idea how many were produced with the spinning mount, but they did get rid of it. It was a nice idea, just too hard to execute in a manner that made it economically feasible, I guess.
I just got a new one in the mail yesterday and the bottom wheel is no fixed solid. It does not rotate anymore. The only way to remove the tank, or tighten it for that matter, is by spinning the drip tip.
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Although mine is from a cheap BF sale and is the "fixed" version, I don't intend to buy another mod until it has been available for awhile - to make sure things like this don't happen. I'm surprised Innokin didn't discover this during the design phase.
As a matter of fact, mine does typically read a few tenths of a ohm higher than the coils rating, but I have read that really anything +/- 0.5 ohms from the mark is generally considered acceptable. The cause I think is more the coil's standard of accuracy than the VTR's ohm meter. Kanger coils, which i use in a Protank 2, are almost always off by a few tenths of an ohm at least. In fact it's often more like 0.4 of an ohm, and occasionally a little more. Just looking at it right now shows a 2.5 ohm coil testing at 2.8.
The other thing is standard variations in component tolerances and the varying resistance of the actual connection, both the threads themselves and the "button" end. Keep in mind that no APV is actually a "precision" rated ohm meter, or voltmeter for that matter. Close is "good enough".
OK damn...I new something like this would be here in the forums. Well long story short, I just traded some stuff on the classified section for an itaste vtr and was wondering what I should ask this dude? You guys are mentioning something of a bottom wheel problem?
edit: So he just clarified with me that its the fixed version so dodged a bullet there. Now onto the fun stuff, I am mostly a mechanical mod user and Im used to sub-ohming on drippers and genesis style attys. There is almost no chance that Im going to be keeping the vtr around, (when it gets here) if I cannot get a genesis or dripper on it. (not really a protank or cartotank guy) Also, theres the fact that there is a size limitation to which kind of attys you can use but its all good. I can build higher ohms no problem but I think the hardest thing is going to be finding a nice atomizer to go on it. I found a compatible list but the good ones are sold out and the others have some cons that come with it. Im also a very visual person and would like to see how it looks first beforehand but thats hard to do when your shopping online. I was hoping some of you guys can post pics of your setups with an atomizer that you have on it and rate its performance. I came across these from a thread I started regarding smaller genesis type atomizers and wasnt sure if they would be too small or would like nice on the VTR. http://mmvapors.com/page/default.asp?id=63&la=1&ctID=52 I also have a DNA 30 box coming in about a month so I think this would be a great way for me to transition into the box type devices.
edit: So he just clarified with me that its the fixed version so dodged a bullet there. Now onto the fun stuff, I am mostly a mechanical mod user and Im used to sub-ohming on drippers and genesis style attys. There is almost no chance that Im going to be keeping the vtr around, (when it gets here) if I cannot get a genesis or dripper on it. (not really a protank or cartotank guy) Also, theres the fact that there is a size limitation to which kind of attys you can use but its all good. I can build higher ohms no problem but I think the hardest thing is going to be finding a nice atomizer to go on it. I found a compatible list but the good ones are sold out and the others have some cons that come with it. Im also a very visual person and would like to see how it looks first beforehand but thats hard to do when your shopping online. I was hoping some of you guys can post pics of your setups with an atomizer that you have on it and rate its performance. I came across these from a thread I started regarding smaller genesis type atomizers and wasnt sure if they would be too small or would like nice on the VTR. http://mmvapors.com/page/default.asp?id=63&la=1&ctID=52 I also have a DNA 30 box coming in about a month so I think this would be a great way for me to transition into the box type devices.
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Here is my VTR that I cut the top ring off of and grinded so its flush with the bottom.
I hope you realize, That once you circumcise a VTR.. That part doesn't grow back.
I put mine on in about five minutes. It was extremely easy. Actual time after you're ready is about 10-15 seconds. It's only a one piece wrap. Love my J-Wrap. Really glad I did it.
I also have a J-Wrap on my Vamo. It's five pieces, but all five pieces fit perfectly and were very easy to put on. I don't know how they do it, but mine are so precision cut it's amazing.
best regards, larry mac
Been using the VTR for 2 weeks now first 'mod' and i love it..
It does have the dodgy ohm reader though... Sent myepack 2 emails and both got ignored along with the review i posted to the site... laaaaame
Does anyone know how long the iclear 30s coils last? Is it worth stocking up on them or should i just invest in a new tank?
cheers
It does have the dodgy ohm reader though... Sent myepack 2 emails and both got ignored along with the review i posted to the site... laaaaame
Does anyone know how long the iclear 30s coils last? Is it worth stocking up on them or should i just invest in a new tank?
cheers
Been using the VTR for 2 weeks now first 'mod' and i love it..
It does have the dodgy ohm reader though... Sent myepack 2 emails and both got ignored along with the review i posted to the site... laaaaame
Does anyone know how long the iclear 30s coils last? Is it worth stocking up on them or should i just invest in a new tank?
cheers
I've read they (iclear 30s coils) last up to three weeks, but I've never used it myself. I prefer using a Protank 2 (single bottom coil) on the VTR with an airflow control valve/Aerotank base. Protank coils are cheap (about a dollar and last about a week), and if you're industrious you can re-wick them yourself.
Don't be too concerned about the ohm reader - anything within +/- 0.5 ohm accuracy is probably the best you're going to get.
Figure Ill post this here from the other thread.
VTR with adapter and Octopus RDA.
VTR ring drilled to fit iClear 30b.
VTR with adapter and Octopus RDA.
VTR ring drilled to fit iClear 30b.
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