- Status
I have have this thing less than a week, and I keep getting frustrated and going back to the ProVari. It just wont make good vapor for me... 
Well I thought my previous coil was perfect and I started getting something I like to call....The Skunk Hit.
Turns out that in my careful wrapping I was a little too careful and my coil was too lose. After a lot of reading I determined my dry/skunk hits were coming from parts of the coil being too dry and burning up the juice. I re-wrapped a coil this morning this time doing 5/6 wraps and snugging it in around the wick. Not too tight but in contact all around.
I've run almost two tanks through it now and no dry/skunk hits. It's essentially vaping perfectly.
Turns out that in my careful wrapping I was a little too careful and my coil was too lose. After a lot of reading I determined my dry/skunk hits were coming from parts of the coil being too dry and burning up the juice. I re-wrapped a coil this morning this time doing 5/6 wraps and snugging it in around the wick. Not too tight but in contact all around.
I've run almost two tanks through it now and no dry/skunk hits. It's essentially vaping perfectly.
Yay Ezkill! ... now leave it ALONE!! 
No fiddling or your wonderful coil will go kaput!
No fiddling or your wonderful coil will go kaput!
As some of us Katana owners I had been having some wicking problems with my Katana, tried a lot of different mesh setups and advices, sometimes the katana worked good for some days, but most of the time there were dry hits. I didn't want to modify my katana (opening the filling hole for example), last night I was playing with it and thinking why the dry hits, I came to the conclusion that dry hits is due the mesh is not in contact with the liquid, for example Katana with half tank filled, when you vape it at 90° the mesh is not in contact with liquid.
I would like to introduce you my ®patented© method to avoid dry hits (standard setup with screw in the filling hole)
You will need:
* Plastic tube approximately 1.7 cm long, 0.5 cm outside diameter. You can find that plastic tube on the spray cans (I took it from a empty deodorant can, be careful when opening compressed content cans).
* Scissors or cutter.
* Know how to disassemble the top cap.
Some pictures:
Standard setup (filling hole screw installed):
You can see how the liquid goes inside the wicking tube© when Katana standing up:
When you vape it the liquid enters inside the wicking tube©, allowing better wicking:
The plastic tube I took from a empty deodorant can (wash it very good and boil it):
Cut a 1.7cm plastic tube piece and make some cuts on one end (this end will be at the tank bottom) to allow the liquid to enter inside the wicking tube©:
Install the plastic tube inside the Katana tank, where the wick hole is placed, like in the third picture.
Install the Katana top cap, the +/- posts will help so the wicking tube stays in place.
So far it is working very good, no dry hits and I can vape the whole tank
Give it a try, it could work for you also.
Very nice tip Ariel_MX. this does work really well!!!
I have have this thing less than a week, and I keep getting frustrated and going back to the ProVari. It just wont make good vapor for me...
Keep trying Phr0st. It takes time to develop the skills to build these properly. Stick with it and soon you will be rewarded with the best vape ever. Trust me, I was not always good at building Genisis mods, it took some time and patience to get it right.
Don't give up, we're here to help you through.
Yes, you are 100% correct. The tube is essentially a capillary booster for the wick by creating a chamber around the wick that juice can cling to on 2 sides. It creates a space where the surface tension is strong enough to defy gravity.
I have it going pretty good right now - I am just shocked how fast it chews through my batteries!
That's the low ohm coils for you.
With my other rebuildable's I simply decided I'm not doing low ohm stuff anymore. I'm not doing them on the Katana either. I ordered a kick so I can boost the wattage and use a kicked 18500.
This is what I found with Penelope coils:
2.0 ohm coil vaped at 3.9 Volts which is roughly 7 watts = 6 hours vape time on a 18500
3.0 ohm coil vaped at 4.8 Volts which is roughly the same 7 watts = 14 hours vape time on a 18500.
The vaping experience is almost the same since the wattage is constant. The difference is the amp draw on the lower ohm coils is much greater so it kills your battery much faster.
True that, but with an 18650 and a 1.2-ish ohm coil it lasts me all day without a battery change till I get home from work. I keep a spare battery just in case but I never need to change till after my work day is done. I just prefer the all mechanical reliability to having an electronic part in the mod. It's just personal preference and I can't really find anything wrong with the kick. I'm just a purist I guess, lol.
I agree with the purist. the only hard mods I have done to the katana are adding the tubing to keep the short electrode from pushing up and opening up the cap hole a teeny bit to taper down the TH. Cuz DAYAM whatta throat hit it had when I first got it and I want a big vape with less effort. I figure i'm not smoking anymore so if i want to feel that same draw I will bust out my smoov and hit a smaller ecig kit rather than puffin tough with my mod. My Katana since I have gotten to know my way around building one has been my all day every day everywhere ecig. I love it and am really stoked to get this ring project finished so those of us purists and the few that just wanted one will have another little cool thing to make the already awesome Katana just that much more special. I think I have decided that I will only make 1 batch of the rings due to it being of POC's design and to try and keep it special.
Riel - hope the rings will be soon!! I can't wait ....
If they end up being a lot more, let me know. I can pay the rest, or cut the # of rings I have ordered from 4 to whatever.
Either way ... I definitely need 3 rings though, 2 for me and 1 for Kami.
If they end up being a lot more, let me know. I can pay the rest, or cut the # of rings I have ordered from 4 to whatever.
Either way ... I definitely need 3 rings though, 2 for me and 1 for Kami.
I might go the purist route as well but I dropped the kick in earlier today. I'm pretty happy with it for now although I obviously see the advantages of a pure mechanical mod. It will take all of 5 seconds to remove it if I get bored with it.
Being new to vaping I got a bit used to the constant voltage as I've been using ProVari's since my third day of switching to PV's over analogs.
Either way the Katana is just win. I like the draw on it a lot. I've barely put it down since I got it 4 days ago. With my 18650 batteries arriving today it certainly is a lot more viable. The 18350's just went too fast. The sweet spot on them for me was always 3.7-4.0 volts. This 650's will obviously last a lot longer in that voltage range so the kick might not even be needed.
Being new to vaping I got a bit used to the constant voltage as I've been using ProVari's since my third day of switching to PV's over analogs.
Either way the Katana is just win. I like the draw on it a lot. I've barely put it down since I got it 4 days ago. With my 18650 batteries arriving today it certainly is a lot more viable. The 18350's just went too fast. The sweet spot on them for me was always 3.7-4.0 volts. This 650's will obviously last a lot longer in that voltage range so the kick might not even be needed.
They definitely last alot longer, and if you don't mind the longer tube they are a winner for sure!
then check this thread out http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/active-coops/296957-katana-le-ring-co-op-4.html
Problem I find with a kick is that you need a really solid connection for it to fire, especially as your battery drains. I ended up sanding the inside top section of the tube and inserting a copper sleeve to aid connection. I find this helps as you can run batteries further down before the kick stops functioning.
Also a good idea to keep contacts and threads clean in your Katana, not just for a kick but as an all mechanical mod too. Whilst I absolutely love my Katana, I do think it suffers from a bit of voltage drop. When I have some spare time I plan to have a good sit down with a multimeter and see if I can figure out where its occuring.
Also a good idea to keep contacts and threads clean in your Katana, not just for a kick but as an all mechanical mod too. Whilst I absolutely love my Katana, I do think it suffers from a bit of voltage drop. When I have some spare time I plan to have a good sit down with a multimeter and see if I can figure out where its occuring.
Kami sent me some thin copper sheeting, and I made a rolled "sleeve" to go inside my Kick. Gives the Kick a great contact and also stops the battery rattle.
Kami sent me some thin copper sheeting, and I made a rolled "sleeve" to go inside my Kick. Gives the Kick a great contact and also stops the battery rattle.
everyone has such elaborate solutions--i do what i saw marcoseattlle do on his youtube video. i just tore a bit off an ordinary business card, folded it, and slid it down the opposite side from the spring. this ghetto fabulous solution bolsters the kick so that the spring makes excellent contact with the tube. works perfect, fires everytime.
- Status
Similar threads
