Thats what I thought too. If thats the case, it probably means it's been filed or sanded down to far, and just a new screw is needed.
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You can get a longer screw also, I did for my V2 so I could fit more magnets in the switch.
I think it's a "M5" screw ... I took the one in the switch to Ace hardware and matched it up.
I think it's a "M5" screw ... I took the one in the switch to Ace hardware and matched it up.
thanks for the feedback folks - i used an allen wrench and undid the screw so it pushes up much farther when pressing the switch. i know the stock katana has been criticized for various performance issues (e.g., burrs on threads, misfires, battery rattles, etc.) but i guess i took it for granted because the 3 that i purchased secondhand previously were problem free.
offhand, for folks that have the v3, whereabouts does the airhole lineup best with the wick for maximum vapor production and flavor? is it stock that you guys find the best results or is anyone out there using an o-ring?
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I have a Katana V2, I had to rotate the teflon disc (thanks to Lorderos instuctions) to properly align the airhole to the wick (Katanas V2 originally came with the wick aligned at the oposite side, behind and between the connection posts).
yes, we were noticing that vapor and flavor were best when the topcap was left slightly unscrewed with the airhole facing between the connection posts--strange since it seems to be entirely opposite of where the wick is. can you please post a link to those lorderos instructions? many thanks!
Patch I had this issue with my v3 as well I solved it with a snip of an oring that fit into the screw hole and helped keep it tight. As well this solved another small issue of the button screw coming loose. I also doubled my switch mod meaning i put the magnets on and the spring to help keep conductivity. Whether it does anything for conductivity in reality its purely a placebo for me at this point and its working quite well! 
I am truly still in mad love with this pv and I will never look at another genesis the same way.
I did have a moment where i was worried that the teflon piece housing the wick and poles might get hot enough to off-gas? I am not that knowledgeable about those specifics so I am just vaping away regardless. Cheers fellow vapors!
I am truly still in mad love with this pv and I will never look at another genesis the same way. I did have a moment where i was worried that the teflon piece housing the wick and poles might get hot enough to off-gas? I am not that knowledgeable about those specifics so I am just vaping away regardless. Cheers fellow vapors!
patch - spinning the top plate is easy .....
- take off wick/coil, tank shield, and screws on + and - posts
- replace top cap to help hold it
- slowly pull, and slight rock (very slight) to pull top plate off (same as to change tank)
- once top plate is off, I left the cap on, and worked from the bottom, taking a pair of small needle nosed pliers, insert in top plate holes, and turn white plate till wick hole is in front of air inlet in cap
- once it's done, I Vaseline'd the post holes, lined them back up, and slowly/gently pushed the cap back down till it snaps back in/on the tank, having a battery in the tube helps support the posts also.
I Vaseline'd everything so it would go smoothly, and it wasn't hard at all.
- take off wick/coil, tank shield, and screws on + and - posts
- replace top cap to help hold it
- slowly pull, and slight rock (very slight) to pull top plate off (same as to change tank)
- once top plate is off, I left the cap on, and worked from the bottom, taking a pair of small needle nosed pliers, insert in top plate holes, and turn white plate till wick hole is in front of air inlet in cap
- once it's done, I Vaseline'd the post holes, lined them back up, and slowly/gently pushed the cap back down till it snaps back in/on the tank, having a battery in the tube helps support the posts also.
I Vaseline'd everything so it would go smoothly, and it wasn't hard at all.
blue when are you gonna make it to a vape meet so us genesis katana owners can compare and contrast?
Riel - I went to the one Vaporium had in Tacoma ..... there were no name tags so I don't know who was there.
Hi everyone, I'm just dropping in to catch up on post reading and see what's going on....(Up-to-date as of this Post on Lorderos33 Reference Links)
~Lady~
~Lady~
Blue if you know who Jagelpuff is? I was on stage with him damn near the whole night. I was wearing a Black Fatal hat. I will definately be going to the next one. Every single Vaporium Vape meet is AWESOME!!! I am a lifer to Kim's parties!
I didn't know he was there till someone pointed him out at the very end, and I never did get to talk to him.
Volcano is having a meet in Olympia this weekend, but I just heard about it yesterday, so I can't make it.
Next time you hear of one in Tacoma, let me know please.
That's not far for me, as long as I don't stay too late.
At that last one, my friends and I were sitting back by the bar ....
Volcano is having a meet in Olympia this weekend, but I just heard about it yesterday, so I can't make it.
Next time you hear of one in Tacoma, let me know please.
That's not far for me, as long as I don't stay too late.
At that last one, my friends and I were sitting back by the bar ....
Cool i will definately let you know.. I as well will not be attending the volcano vapemeet.. Deftones concert and Circa Survive concert on the same night and some friends would like me to come over for dinner so i am in the air for what I am going to do... I know that I am not big on Volcano anymore so I won't be jumping at this one... I love Kim's Vape meets though!
Tacoma isn't too far for me, going the back way to Olympia (through Shelton) is slow going, especially at night in the woods. LOL
hey i have a v2 katana if anyone is interested pm me. highest bidder wins comes with extra drip tips and alot of juice
Hello fellow vapers. I'm now the proud owner of a Katana V3! I received her yesterday and she is in immaculate condition. A few questions though if you don't mind, and please feel free to just quote previous posts in this thread that I may have missed during my searching and reading last night.
So, first off I will tell you that the switch has a spring, that the M5 screw in the switch has been sanded on top and the threads underneath the head have been sanded down for smoother action of the switch; all done by the previous owner. I also had a stock screw and I put that in just to see how much a difference the modded screw makes. It does make a difference on the "hanging up".
My top screw (the atty screw) is not sunk in, the entire head is protruding into the battery compartment (this good, I hear that they can sink in when using the 18350 and over tightening). Correct me if I'm wrong. I also assumed the positive end of the battery goes in towards the top/tank.
Second, the 18350 tube is a little short. No big deal, I just attached the switch to the tube, put the battery in and then lightly tighten to the upper half of the Katana as to not push the top screw past the disk during use.
However, my 18650 tube, or batteries I should say, are super loose inside, so much so that even while pressing the switch I get no connection and you can tell there is still plenty of space needed to be filled in. What is the best method to correct this? What are all my options? Is a magnet my only option?
So, all in all I like the Katana. I rolled a 28awg 6/7 wrap around a drill bit, spaced it out, installed it, then rolled a #500 40mmx50mm and dropped it into the coil and it is bellowing out vapor! Install on the Katana is straight forward and just an easy as any RBA. I just need to be able to use 18650's because those 18350's don't last long.
Crack3d
So, first off I will tell you that the switch has a spring, that the M5 screw in the switch has been sanded on top and the threads underneath the head have been sanded down for smoother action of the switch; all done by the previous owner. I also had a stock screw and I put that in just to see how much a difference the modded screw makes. It does make a difference on the "hanging up".
My top screw (the atty screw) is not sunk in, the entire head is protruding into the battery compartment (this good, I hear that they can sink in when using the 18350 and over tightening). Correct me if I'm wrong. I also assumed the positive end of the battery goes in towards the top/tank.
Second, the 18350 tube is a little short. No big deal, I just attached the switch to the tube, put the battery in and then lightly tighten to the upper half of the Katana as to not push the top screw past the disk during use.
However, my 18650 tube, or batteries I should say, are super loose inside, so much so that even while pressing the switch I get no connection and you can tell there is still plenty of space needed to be filled in. What is the best method to correct this? What are all my options? Is a magnet my only option?
So, all in all I like the Katana. I rolled a 28awg 6/7 wrap around a drill bit, spaced it out, installed it, then rolled a #500 40mmx50mm and dropped it into the coil and it is bellowing out vapor! Install on the Katana is straight forward and just an easy as any RBA. I just need to be able to use 18650's because those 18350's don't last long.
Crack3d
I believe POC originally said the AW 18650 2900 mah was the battery he recommended length wise.
I don't have any problems with them, I have a V2, but basically the same. If you don't like the side to side rattle, a bit of copper sheeting, rolled into a tube, and put inside the regular tube works well, and allows the use of a Kick.
Hey Riel .... any news on the thread rings???
I don't have any problems with them, I have a V2, but basically the same. If you don't like the side to side rattle, a bit of copper sheeting, rolled into a tube, and put inside the regular tube works well, and allows the use of a Kick.
Hey Riel .... any news on the thread rings???
Thanks BluSwatch. I have AW IMR 2000's and obviouslt they are quite a bit shorter then the recommened AW's.
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