I'd be willing to bet you won't be experimenting for long - the Kayfuns are too good not to use every day ;-)
Kayfun lite plus black clone edition
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I'd be willing to bet you won't be experimenting for long - the Kayfuns are too good not to use every day ;-)
May i ask how you drilled yours? It appears that the air hole is way too the top to do a straight drill through, did u taper yours to the side? Can you post pics! Thanks!!
Can you fix that so we can understand what you're asking? It doesn't make sense right now.
i tried to drill mine last night and it would not work, i think i need a new drill bit
I think he's saying that it looks like the existing hole is too close to the top of the base to drill.
If so.. He's overestimating the size of a 1/16 bit. On my ehpro, the hole is very close to the top, but the 1/16 bit reamed it out without causing an issue.
Also, you need to use a drill press. I tried to drill one of mine and broke the bit off inside when I was using a hand drill. Had to fill the old hole, drill and chamfer a new one next to it. You can do it in such a way that the new hole intersects with the adjustment screw, so it still works. Still wish I wasn't lazy and just went to use the press in the first place.
What kind of bit did you use? It needs to be titanium. I also recommend using a drill press, if possible..
I got mine yesterday only to find out that one of the screws on the posts would not tighten down. To bad really because the rest of it looked good. Back it goes.
I think I see what your saying, the hole is toward the top but 1/16" isn't that much bigger than what's already there, you still have plenty of room.
Take it apart, unscrew center adjusting screw from the bottom. Then you'll see the tube it was screwed into. Unscrew that until it releases the positive block on the deck then push it out the rest of the way from the top, it's just press fit once the positive section from the deck is free.
You'll then be able to see all the way through from the 510 connector end at the bottom. Drill from the side air hole, a press would be best but I did it with an adjustable speed hand drill with no issues, 1/16" isn't that much bigger than it already is so it's not removing that much material, just make sure you've got a good bit, I used a cobalt bit and take it slow. Stop once your 1/2 through the body so keep looking through the connector end as your drilling once you see the drill bit has reached the center you're done.
Be sure and give it a good wash, reverse procedure and put it back together and you're done.
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Just drill straight through. Obviously take out the center pin and airflow control grub screw.
But seriously, drill press, otherwise you'll just break the bit off. Seriously. Set the rpms as low as you possibly can, and go super slow. Cutting oil is useful.
You dont need the fanciest bits, a titanium coated one is handy. I have some cobalt coated ones and used one, but honestly even one of my cheaper (but still quality, dewalt or the like, not harbor freight) would have been just fine.
i had the same too but just switch it with spare screws and youll be fine
I got mine today. Unfortunately, the threads on the negative post are stripped! I was hoping that it was the screw itself, but the extra screw that came in the bag won't tighten either. Any ideas before sending it back. Grrr!
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Broke off the bit in the .......n airhole.. :/ Oh well, only $50.. at least I got some spare parts out of it.
One of these days I guess I'll have to break down and get a drill press.
christonabike this thing is giving me fits. I just haven't figured out the proper cotton mass, I know that's all it is. Went through the same thing with the Fogger and the Taifun GT clone too. This one just seems a little more.....particular. Keep gettin' dry hits, and primer pulls (even ridiculously hard ones) are only partially effective. I guess I need to look at more build photos and videos.....
I'm assuming micro-coil? You probably have too much cotton at a guess, so the coil is choking the wick. There should be some resistance as you pull the cotton through the coil (otherwise you won't be getting good contact), but it shouldn't be so hard to pull through that you're in danger of tearing the cotton (it will expand when wicking). As for length, if you pull the ends of the wick up and slide the bottom part of the chimney over them, then screw it down, you should trim the cotton down to about a couple of millimetres above the chimney. Then when you poke it down into the chamber, it should be just the right length to fan out and sit along the bottom of the chamber over the juice intakes - it doesn't need to pack the chamber, or it'll reduce wicking.
Good luck!
AhHA! That sounds solid. I'll be giving it another try as soon as I'm actually awake, heh.
just ordered mine last night - this sounds like real nice clone - other forum board members are in praise of this also..
If you guys are drilling, make sure you follow what was said here earlier, drill very slow, use some cutting oil, hopefully a drill press, so it will drill with a straight angle, and definitely use American made COBALT bits are the best for Stainless Steel.
If you guys are drilling, make sure you follow what was said here earlier, drill very slow, use some cutting oil, hopefully a drill press, so it will drill with a straight angle, and definitely use American made COBALT bits are the best for Stainless Steel.
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