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muzichead

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Been reading this thread for a while now. Can someone give me the skinny on the Tobeco lite, (not the +), version? I am thinking of buying one and just wondered if it is a good version. I have read that some have had the whistle effect but other than that I'm not sure. I have read about a few fixes for that. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks...
 

nelsonm64

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Also, make sure you're leaving a little bit of an air-bubble in the tank so that the negative pressure can work with the vacuum effect required to feed juice to the wick. You did soak the cotton inside the chimney right, before closing it all up?

I could not get a consistent cotton wick, so switched to cotton yarn myself. I find it a far easier medium to work with.
I agree, an air gap in the tank is very important! when filling it upside down I fill it up until the juice gets to the top of the window. no more.
 

Akdare

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Yep. Wicks need to touch the deck. I spread mine out on either side like a fan after putting on the bottom part of the chimney. Then juice it. I also put a tiny bit in each juice channel outside of the chimney. You should see that bit of juice "crawl" inside. Finish assembly, and fill from the bottom. I agree with my esteemed colleagues about the air bubble. Very important for the physics of the tank to function as designed.

If these things don't work just let us know, I'm sure we can make up something else for you to try...JK about the making up part, of course.
 

Bronze

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I have my cotton wicks draped over the build deck touching the bottom deck and pushed up against the wall away from the juice channels. I do this with all my kayfuns and, I never get a dry hit, I always get a nice juicy hit :)

I've used cotton but have stuck with silica in my KFL. My wicks easily reach the deck and fan out. I put the chamber on and then stuff the wick down there any ole way with no regard to anything. Just stuff it down there. Never had a dry hit yet since I owned the KFL (Sept. 6). But silica is a different animal than cotton.
 

LReyes66

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try an aga (genny) insulator.. ag series should work
here is the xtra that comes with the gennies. Most B&M's will have these.
View attachment 300822
clear insulator on the left side of picture

I went to the vape shop where 1 of my friends work at. They had the aga extra parts but when I told him what I was gonna use it for he told me it isnt gonna work since they tried it already. Gonna have to settle with my temp insulator tape fix til the replacement comes in

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turbocad6

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too airy and you'll loose vacuum pull which the kayfun depends on. the kayfun actually feeds juice more with a tighter draw, however more juice feed is going to be conducive to a higher watt vape, that in turn needs more air to match it which goes against a tighter draw.... that is the kayfun catch22 and why I winded up recalibrating the juice feed by opening the channels a bit, for juicy higher powered use with less tight draw
 

benosa562

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too airy and you'll loose vacuum pull which the kayfun depends on. the kayfun actually feeds juice more with a tighter draw, however more juice feed is going to be conducive to a higher watt vape, that in turn needs more air to match it which goes against a tighter draw.... that is the kayfun catch22 and why I winded up recalibrating the juice feed by opening the channels a bit, for juicy higher powered use with less tight draw

So if I do end up drilling my airhole, it's very tight for me I'm used to dripping, I wouldn't be able to chain vape unless I would do some prim hits from time to time?

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turbocad6

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pretty much. also I think the most restrictive passage in the airstream is actually the hole right under the coil. if I was to open up my airflow I think I'd start out by opening that hole slightly before screwing with the external passage but I never modded the airflow so that's just a thought rather than solid advice and I'd probably do some measuring and harder looking before doing anything
 

benosa562

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I drilled a R91 clone air intake hole to 1/16. No problem, works fine and no leaks. My OEM KLites, i only fill the tank every 2 days, replace cotton wick every 3 tanks and enjoy.

How is the draw? Is there any significant change? I've read that even though you open up the outer airhole, the hole in the center pin will still restrict it.

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LReyes66

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I drilled a R91 clone air intake hole to 1/16. No problem, works fine and no leaks. My OEM KLites, i only fill the tank every 2 days, replace cotton wick every 3 tanks and enjoy.

Lol man I want to drill it to 1/16th too but I have a real Russian and nervous I'd break it. Isn't the hole already 1.8mm though stock?

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TheKiwi

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How is the draw? Is there any significant change? I've read that even though you open up the outer airhole, the hole in the center pin will still restrict it.

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absolutely right. I take my r91 and kfl+ apart for cleaning quite frequently and the path the airflow takes is as follows:

1) through the airhole on the outside
2) through the hole in the center pin
3) up through the hollow centre pin
4) onto the deck (below the coil) at the end of the centre pin.

I've measured with a caliper (although i cant rmb the exact numbers).

- the stock air hole is SMALLER than the hole at the base of the centre pin. So yes, technically drilling out the air hole will increase air flow. BUT....

- drilling the air hole is only gonna make a difference up until the point where it reaches the size of the centre pin's hole. Any bigger and it's no difference at all. ** note that the initial difference is very very very small to begin with


which now brings me to another point. IF for some reason your R91 or KFL comes with a ridiculously tight draw, there is a chance that it's simply because the holes in the centre pin is not aligned with the air hole path to the outside. That's what happened with my second R91. Impossibly tight draw regardless of how i loosen the AFC. took it apart, realized that the centre pin holes were aligned such that less than 1mm of the hole was aligned with the AFC air channel. Aligned and slotted it in slowly, screw and secure, perfectly adjustable airflow as usual.
 

LReyes66

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absolutely right. I take my r91 and kfl+ apart for cleaning quite frequently and the path the airflow takes is as follows:

1) through the airhole on the outside
2) through the hole in the center pin
3) up through the hollow centre pin
4) onto the deck (below the coil) at the end of the centre pin.

I've measured with a caliper (although i cant rmb the exact numbers).

- the stock air hole is SMALLER than the hole at the base of the centre pin. So yes, technically drilling out the air hole will increase air flow. BUT....

- drilling the air hole is only gonna make a difference up until the point where it reaches the size of the centre pin's hole. Any bigger and it's no difference at all. ** note that the initial difference is very very very small to begin with


which now brings me to another point. IF for some reason your R91 or KFL comes with a ridiculously tight draw, there is a chance that it's simply because the holes in the centre pin is not aligned with the air hole path to the outside. That's what happened with my second R91. Impossibly tight draw regardless of how i loosen the AFC. took it apart, realized that the centre pin holes were aligned such that less than 1mm of the hole was aligned with the AFC air channel. Aligned and slotted it in slowly, screw and secure, perfectly adjustable airflow as usual.

Yeah you make a good point. Realized when I lost my bottom insulator and figuring out how to use insulator tape that the air goes through the tiny holes of the screw then up through the deck. Maybe if someone engineered a screw with wider holes it would increase the airhole.

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