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vapdivrr

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Properly heat treated XC-116 does not fray when it's cut. To properly heat treat it, it must be kept to a temperature over 1652 degrees for over 12 hours. rba Supplies kiln treats their XC-116 to 1850 for 12 hours, and it does not fray when cut.

XC-116

see that was one of the reasons why I don't mess with it anymore. the place I purchased it from a while back was highly recommended too, go figure. in the end its just not worth it to worry about this sort of thing when there is so little difference between the ceramic rope and what im using now. to me its a no brainer, cotton or ceramic rope that needs to be heat treaded to make it safe.
 

vapdivrr

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Vapdivrr thanks for posting your experience with the ceramic rope....I'll be sticking with the yarn...I double boiled the yarn in RO filtered water...Works well for me...

I judge my coil height by the screws...No measurement but just a "feel" for what's right..I always attach my leads "clockwise"...When I'm sure the coil is positioned to my liking I give a final tightening of the screws break the wire by moving it back and forth...I often fish with wire and cut wire is very sharp wire...broken off it's dull...get cut by it and you'll break it too...I use a combination of things when dry burning...a can of air for blasting the initial crummies...an old toothbrush...toothpick...and a piece of yarn for cleaning the inside...It's easier for me to tell if it's clean when it's glowing...

no problem at all. I guess I had bought some inferior rope maybe as one poster mentioned in a post after this original one. he stated that if the rope is properly heat treaded then it doesn't frey. that just doesn't seem right because before I bought this stuff everyone told me that this was one of the draw backs to it and some even sowed the ends to overcome this issue. well maybe a lot of people bought this rope that wasn't properly heat treaded also. anyways this is just another reason why I don't believe its worth it. besides the freying issue the vape was not as pure as the cotton imo so again I don't believe its worth the extra money and worry.
 

Edson Arantes

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Hello everyone,

I just got my second KFL a V2 this time and I built my regular 1.06 ohm coil on it but decided to put it on my Provari Mini because my Nemesis is sporting my first KFL. But the battery on my Mini will only last about 15 minutes tops with that 1.06 ohm micro coil.
What kind of ohms should I shoot for so that the batteries on my Mini will last longer???

Thanks in advance
 

Akdare

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Hello everyone,

I just got my second KFL a V2 this time and I built my regular 1.06 ohm coil on it but decided to put it on my Provari Mini because my Nemesis is sporting my first KFL. But the battery on my Mini will only last about 15 minutes tops with that 1.06 ohm micro coil.
What kind of ohms should I shoot for so that the batteries on my Mini will last longer???

Thanks in advance

The higher the resistance, the longer the battery life...I think that the min resistance that Provari recommends is 1.2 ohm.
 

Edson Arantes

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The higher the resistance, the longer the battery life...I think that the min resistance that Provari recommends is 1.2 ohm.

Thank you Akdare,

I have some 30g Kenthal but I have had really bad luck building micros with 30g and I think if I add more wraps of 28g to my usual build it will be too many and my wicks will get dry. What are you guys using??
 

Akdare

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Thank you Akdare,

I have some 30g Kenthal but I have had really bad luck building micros with 30g and I think if I add more wraps of 28g to my usual build it will be too many and my wicks will get dry. What are you guys using??

I use 30g. 5/64“ drill bit. I think it's 6 wraps for 1.4 ohms. Pre-torch your wire, takes the "spring" out of it and makes it easier to wrap. I use a pair of cross lock tweezers to hold the coil and torch before mounting it on the posts.
 

Woody7781

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Thank you Akdare,

I have some 30g Kenthal but I have had really bad luck building micros with 30g and I think if I add more wraps of 28g to my usual build it will be too many and my wicks will get dry. What are you guys using??

I swear by 30 in my Kayfun. It heats up really fast and clean. That's my go to. Drippers and dual coils I use 28 or 26
 

TheKiwi

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Finally got home after a horrendous day and decided to treat myself to some me-time. Build a vertical chimney coil, 1/16 drill bit, 8/9 wraps of 30gauge, 1.8 ohms. Cotton. 1 month old smooth criminal. It's glorious.

Can't wait for my 28 gauge to arrive so that I can get a 12-13 wrap vertical coil going. I'll be the happiest guy alive

5ypyhyby.jpg


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scscheib

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I use the SS tank because that's all I have at the moment, but I do really like the look of it too. I can tell when it's empty when I get a dry hit lol. I notice it before the cotton burns, but the tank is pretty bone dry when it happens. I fill from the top and if I want to check the level I open the top using the same technique to prevent flooding as when filling that way.

It would be nice if I had a sensitive scale that I could weigh an empty tank on, and just set it on the scale to get an idea of how much juice is left.

I just got my KFL+ and it leaked through the air hole like many I have read here. I then followed the advice from a posted video to fill from the top and not tighten the top cap all the way, turn it upside down and let the juice flow while the air creates back pressure. It hasn't leaked since I did that. Such great flavor from this device. As long as it doesn't leak through air hole I am loving the KFL+!
 

LReyes66

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Thank you Akdare,

I have some 30g Kenthal but I have had really bad luck building micros with 30g and I think if I add more wraps of 28g to my usual build it will be too many and my wicks will get dry. What are you guys using??

I use 28g on my R91 thats paired with my provari. I used a 1/16 drillbit with like 8 or 9 wraps at 1.3ohms and get about and hour chain vaping on a 18350 battery. about 5-6 with a 490 battery depending how much I vape.


edit: actually i meant to say I usually use 1/16 but right now im using 1.4mm ID so I can get more wraps and it fire faster
 
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xSKOOBSx

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really digging my second batch KFL+. It is a really laid back, let-the-vapor-expansion-do-the-work kind of vape, which, when you have the patience to take the time and vape it like that, makes the flavor absolutely phenomenal. my plain tobacco flavor (cowboy from 805 vapor, which is now called vapor connection) has never tasted so sweet.

unfortunately, if you pull on it even the slightest bit, you get whistle. Very annoying. and the airhole is so close to the tank piece it almost wouldnt work to countersink it. I really don't feel like this should be an issue with such a sought after, anticipated atty. Honestly, did no one even prototype and test this thing? I may stick to kayfun clones from now on. seriously not what I expected after deciding to support the company that originally made my favorite atty.

Build that is working for me is a parallel micro coil. This is basically a standard micro coil, but instead of wrapping with one piece of kanthal, you wrap with two of them side by side, and screw down 2 leads on each side, for a total of 4. hope that makes sense.

I am using 30awg kanthal and doing 6 wraps (looks like 12) around a 1/8 drill bit.

phenomenal flavor. just remember to make sure you don't use too much cotton (don't stuff the coil so much that the juice has a hard time wicking into the center of the coil. the cotton should move back and forth easily in the coil), and don't force the vape. it will be slow, hot, and sweet. mmm mmm
 
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dwcraig1

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My experience here is with a KFL and not the + but it may pertain to some extent.
Quite some time ago in this thread there was the suggestion that the air hole in the base be lined up with the air hole(s) of the center pin for increased air flow.
So upon setting mine up this way all I ended up with was a whistle and the same draw so I made sure that the holes didn't line up and all is well again, no more whistle.
Perhaps the alignment of the air holes on the + have a similar result, just saying.
 

LReyes66

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Do y'all think if get this clear tank (not an official clear mtank) that once the threaded part becomes wet with juice it will be more see through?

3etytypu.jpg


Mtank I have now kinda looks like that but when I attach it to my kfl+ and juices are put in it becomes clear.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

Edson Arantes

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I use 28g on my R91 thats paired with my provari. I used a 1/16 drillbit with like 8 or 9 wraps at 1.3ohms and get about and hour chain vaping on a 18350 battery. about 5-6 with a 490 battery depending how much I vape.


edit: actually i meant to say I usually use 1/16 but right now im using 1.4mm ID so I can get more wraps and it fire faster

Gracias Mr. Reyes,

I am not sure what size drill bit I have, but I did a 9 wrap of 30g and got 2.1 ohms on 4.5 V on my Provari Mini. Great flavor and vapor, and I am sure I will get more than 1 hour of vaping (when not chain vaping).

Thinking of getting rid of my Némesis and get another Mini............... hmmmmmmm
 

Akdare

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Do y'all think if get this clear tank (not an official clear mtank) that once the threaded part becomes wet with juice it will be more see through?

3etytypu.jpg


Mtank I have now kinda looks like that but when I attach it to my kfl+ and juices are put in it becomes clear.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

The threaded part goes over the SS threading of the KFL, so no, it won't get more transparent.
 

TheKiwi

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So. I just spent 15 mins trying to find somewhere to buy a full clear plastic m tank in this thread, but god it's too damned huge. If anyone knows of any reasonably priced full transparent m tank that's compatible with both kfl+ and r91, I would really appreciate a PM. plastic would be idea for me; I don't vape tank crackers and I'm a clumsy fool

P.s. I'm aware I could google it, but there's all sorta options out there, and I would rather just cut to the chase with advice from folks who've actually used a particular one. Thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

crss

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    So. I just spent 15 mins trying to find somewhere to buy a full clear plastic m tank in this thread, but god it's too damned huge. If anyone knows of any reasonably priced full transparent m tank that's compatible with both kfl+ and r91, I would really appreciate a PM. plastic would be idea for me; I don't vape tank crackers and I'm a clumsy fool

    P.s. I'm aware I could google it, but there's all sorta options out there, and I would rather just cut to the chase with advice from folks who've actually used a particular one. Thanks!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Clear Kayfun Lite "M-Tank" Body Kit - Kidney Puncher 11.95 I used to purchase from ultra, but there web site has changed & i cant find em.
     

    crss

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    Ok, so i have been loving my kayfun lites since July 2013, 3 of them, OEM. Also own a R91. I have a friend who is co owners at a cnc company. He has made a few Delrin top caps for the kayfun's. The inner well is deep, hold 1.5ml more fluid. He stopped by my house & left me a few samples. This is just an interest post. The four colors he left me were blue, gold, white and blue. PM me for more info. If the interest is high, he will make some more. Blue will not be made again. I put one on a 22mm nano tank, in the picture. I like it, no leaks, threads are great. It is delrin, so it is lighter then SS. I am going to put one on my T. glass kit.
    Delrin k-cap.jpgDelrin tcap.jpgDelrin tops.jpg
    surgical grade delrin
     

    Zbeast08

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    Ok, so i have been loving my kayfun lites since July 2013, 3 of them, OEM. Also own a R91. I have a friend who is co owners at a cnc company. He has made a few Delrin top caps for the kayfun's. The inner well is deep, hold 1.5ml more fluid. He stopped by my house & left me a few samples. This is just an interest post. The four colors he left me were blue, gold, white and blue. PM me for more info. If the interest is high, he will make some more. Blue will not be made again. I put one on a 22mm nano tank, in the picture. I like it, no leaks, threads are great. It is delrin, so it is lighter then SS. I am going to put one on my T. glass kit.
    View attachment 311655View attachment 311656View attachment 311657
    surgical grade delrin

    They look pretty awesome!


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