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ethermion

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Right on the money Vapd! I checked on the orings (thank you Ether) and noticed that I was unable to unscrew the tank from the metal on one end. Yep! A bit of gentle force (pushing down) with an occasional double plier move (protecting with cloth) and I was unable to unscrew that section. The oring looked great. I re-assembled and I'm back in bliss. (No leakage)! This time I'll try and stay humble :)

Thank you and I'm looking forward to paying this forward and helping others..

You put pliers to a kayfun? The horror, the horror. I can only hope it was a clone. Next time, borrow yer' wife's rubber kitchen gloves. Works a treat on slippery atty's with sweaty hands.

But, glad you are back in vape business. Enjoy!
 

Robinowitz

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You put pliers to a Kayfun? The horror, the horror. I can only hope it was a clone. Next time, borrow yer' wife's rubber kitchen gloves. Works a treat on slippery atty's with sweaty hands.

But, glad you are back in vape business. Enjoy!

I know! These were desperate times. Didn't think of the gloves :(. The cloth protected the tank about 90%. And no, it's not a clone. I've been able to stick w/ US made or originals throughout my vape life.

Note to self: kitchen gloves.....
 

ethermion

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I know! These were desperate times. Didn't think of the gloves :(. The cloth protected the tank about 90%. And no, it's not a clone. I've been able to stick w/ US made or originals throughout my vape life.

Note to self: kitchen gloves.....

Well, I guess if you own a real deal Kayfun, you are in the club, and automatically forgiven. But do remember the kitchen gloves next time (and there will be a next time). They work really, really well, and leave no scars.

No clones here either. Rockin' only the real stuff. I'm worth it.

Cheers
 

MwSlim

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I know! These were desperate times. Didn't think of the gloves :(. The cloth protected the tank about 90%. And no, it's not a clone. I've been able to stick w/ US made or originals throughout my vape life.

Note to self: kitchen gloves.....
For some reason Kayfuns are the only vape product I wont use anything but the authentics. After giving a couple away to friends, Im down to 7. I absolutely love them :)
 

Robinowitz

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I have one of those little round rubber jar openers that I use to do the ends of mine.

I have one of those too. Have had it for many years. An insurance broker gave it to us in lieu of a business card. Too bad I was too lazy to go the extra 15 yards and fetch it. :)

Perhaps this is one of my "pay it forwards" for all of the wise council I've received on this thread and forum...tee hee...
 

ricks

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I use these to take my stuck ones apart, 0720142044-1.jpg
 

Fir3b1rd

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Right on the money Vapd! I checked on the orings (thank you Ether) and noticed that I was unable to unscrew the tank from the metal on one end. Yep! A bit of gentle force (pushing down) with an occasional double plier move (protecting with cloth) and I was unable to unscrew that section. The oring looked great. I re-assembled and I'm back in bliss. (No leakage)! This time I'll try and stay humble :)

Thank you and I'm looking forward to paying this forward and helping others..

Omg that hurts to read.
I wouldn't let pliers touch my clones moreless my authentic. Nothing a pair of latex medical gloves can't solve. I get the for cvs for 5 dollars a box. They are great for when you want to clean and rewick anyway. Not that the liquid is bad but now of those slippery oily feeling hands after you're done anyway.
 

Robinowitz

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Alright already :). You're killing me (almost like you think I did w my KFL). Lesson learned. Still subscribing to this thread :)

Not to change the subject.....but, I'm wondering about filling my scratched-up, badly nicked, authentic KFL from the top rather than the bottom. Any suggestions? I could do some research but how would I change the topic otherwise? I'm guessing I should put the pliers away for this job?
 

KTMRider

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I have a Kayfun 3.1 and Lite. I fill the Lite from the fill hole in the bottom but I fill the 3.1 from the top.

You have to hold the air hole while you unscrew the top, fill it and put the top back. All while holding the air hole or it will leak. You should turn it upside down while you tighten the top so the pressure in the tank doesn't push the e-juice thru the wick and leak from the air hole but I found that you'll leak either from the threads on top or the air hole. Pick your poison. Either way, it's not a lot but it's easier to clean the threads. This is one of the reasons I like the Lite more than the 3.1.
 

Fir3b1rd

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Like rider said you have to cover the with hole the entire time the seel is broken- it's the only way to ensure the airpressure inside the atty stays equalized. Failure to do so will result in a flood ad you building an ark to saw your family.

Honestly top filing is so much more trouble than its worth.
Yes it can be done, in fact I used to do it, for the sole reason that it was ill advised; it's not a biggie once you get the hang of it. Problems are you don't get the full capacity out of the tank; and , it can flood and cause you to lose a fair amount of juice.
I stopped top filling when I inadvertently lost a whole lot of really expensive juice from5pawns trying to do so. That's when it dawned on me that the tank came with a screwdriver for a reason; and, bottom filling was really a lot easier. Not to mention, the people that designed the kfl designed it that way for a reason and I paid a whole lot of money for it so I might as well get the most out of what I paid for and treat her right.
I hate to be that guy; but, it's killing me....
Do you not like your kfl?
-kidding
 
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qorax

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I have a Kayfun 3.1 and Lite. I fill the Lite from the fill hole in the bottom but I fill the 3.1 from the top.

You have to hold the air hole while you unscrew the top, fill it and put the top back. All while holding the air hole or it will leak. You should turn it upside down while you tighten the top so the pressure in the tank doesn't push the e-juice thru the wick and leak from the air hole but I found that you'll leak either from the threads on top or the air hole. Pick your poison. Either way, it's not a lot but it's easier to clean the threads. This is one of the reasons I like the Lite more than the 3.1.

The K'fun 3.1ES has a perfectly functioning juice inlet valve, so why do you fill it from the top? I've been filling it thru that same valve since 2012 - and nothing has gone wrong yet. So do I my KFLs (from the bottom fill hole) ~ one of the reasons why I purchased these K'funs in the first place.
 

Midniteoyl

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So. Haven't had time to wick and vape on this yet. But someone just entertain my thoughts a little.

I've never understood microcoils. At least the whole making all the wraps touch each other part. It was all part of the "everyone says so so it must be right" kinda thing. The only real benefit I can see is more efficient thermal conduction between the wraps, resulting in faster heat up time. I don't see much difference in resistance.

At the same time, doesn't it make sense that if the wraps are touching and kinda form an almost impermeable tube-like structure, there is actually less spots for vaporized eliquid to escape from the wick? Essentially it'll only be from the edges of the coil.

Dunno. Maybe someone can help me understand why exactly everyone says the wraps should be touching.

In any case, I figured ah why not make a hybrid. And so I did.

aje2a2y8.jpg


use3e4e9.jpg


a3ysybe6.jpg


6enavude.jpg


haqejazu.jpg


aze4agaq.jpg


aqymugyv.jpg


So it's essentially just a coil made up of 3 "sub coils", each made of 3 wraps touching each other, and leaving space in the middle.

I guess I just wanna figure out if that would give a greater vapor prosecution. Hnmm


ETA: oh in case anyone is wondering, it does heat up and glow nicely evenly throughout all 3 sub coils. I figured the semi-glow pictures would look nicer and give a better idea of how the coils look



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All I can say is that every coil I have made, including the ones that I fired and squeezed together with pliers multiple times, have a very small gap in between the coils wraps when I look at it through a strong magnifying glass.

Its a coil, and by definition (in my mind anyway) it has to have some space in between.
Else we might call it a barrel, not a coil, lol.

Not to mention the resistance implications if it were a barrel and one solid round form.

I think the idea or topic is how much space in between the wraps is best.

Just my 2 cents.

BTW, interesting coil there. If it works well, you can claim an original idea. :)


Too late....:


 

vapdivrr

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Haha thankfully that's not my biggest concern. I'm just convinced that that's a more. Sensible form than a conventional contact microcoil :)


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Me to, that's why I keep rebuilding and keep trying different coils etc. Serously, I have tried a hundred different coils and so far only slight differences.
 

TheKiwi

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Me to, that's why I keep rebuilding and keep trying different coils etc. Serously, I have tried a hundred different coils and so far only slight differences.

Right right. I'm certain I've tried as many different builds too, trying to find some mind blowingly good new ones.

Nope. Not quite there.

Tbh the only one that has the most significant difference from a standard microcoil is just, well, the double barrel build. That one I can honestly say that the difference is significant enough.

In any case, an update. Just finished my 2nd tank of my custard juice in my kfl with that hybrid coil thingie. No fluff, but there is noticeably less gunking on the coil and wick.


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