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im pretty sure its 6 amps or is it 3? I always get confused on the duallys. I know the resistance is halfed. so he has a 1.2 ohm total coil which is cut in half for a .6 ohm coil. a .6 coil at lets say 3.9v (after some v-loss) is a little over 6 amps. or is the amperage for the total coil? in this case its over 3. anyways it looks way cool.
that's a nice ... turd .shiit..., im mean brass turtle ship
there cannot be an end, if there was we would still be vaping v-2's
if your inquiring about that custom ceramic wick a couple of pages back, you cannot get one for they are custom made which require a lot of fabrication. you can however obtain the fc-2000 porous ceramic wicks. try discount vapers.
Very good points, I just built a .8 ohm coil and the vape is extremely warm compared to the 1.3 I was running. Completely different vape. When using the mech it's a game of experimentation to get dial it in. Going to enjoy this coil for a while. What is you coil preference?
I use a mech for the most part although I am patiently waiting for a dna-20 tube mod, anyways my usual set up is 26g wire around a 16g blunt tip needle, 8 micro coils for a resistance of approximately .7Ω. I much prefer the 26g to the 28g at these resistances for I find the thicker wire actually lessens the warmth. I also use 27g wire when making a .8 to 1.0 coil for the provari, lastly I will use 28g wire when doing a 1.3 ohm build for the provari. all are incredible vapes, but I like the 26g build a little better.
Thanks Vapdivrr, by the way great videos. They have been a big help.
Did it look something like this?
Yes that's the one I saw. That looks fantastic!
I'd have to disagree completely here. The AW batteries are completely inferior quality. There is a YouTube video out there of someone shorting one and measuring the temp. It rose to over 300 degree F. When I was half asleep one morning I wasn't thinking and threw a spare Orbtronic in my pocket and it connected with my keys. I felt the heat and while it burned a hole in my pocket I got it out pretty easily without burning myself. The same test that I mentioned above tests the Orbtronic and it's around 200 degrees F. Orbtronics are made by Panasonic and have advanced chemistry to keep them more stable than the AW's. The AW's are one step above the blue Chinese time bombs.
Edit - The Orbs are also up to 2900 mah now. Itaste has button top Panasonic's at 3400mah. I have not tried those yet. Was about to, but backed off.
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I just caught up with the other posts. Thank you all for your patience in getting me up and running. I didn't order the spare supplies yet and will probably do it today now that I can put everything into the proper perspective.
Lord, you can find a negative YouTube video on anything you want. AW is probably the best selling e-cig battery out there. The e-cig world is populated with them so I suspect it wouldn't surprise me to see a negative vid out there.
One more thing, I've used many devices but settled on the Provari (v2) in December of 2012. While it's my favorite device and considered the standard, it's really nothing special under the hood. It's internal electronics are actually glued to the body. That's really going cheap on their part. I did order a second Provari because at the end of the day, we all know how well it works. Provari was for a while (way back) selling Trust Fire batteries. If you know anything about batteries, you know that those are pretty awful and that Provari themselves doesn't recommend them anymore. I'm pretty convinced that they're selling the AW's now because of a business deal. They are after all in this to make a profit. Not everything they sell on their site is the best of the best - just look at their DCT's. So I just go into this with both eyes open. The battery simply a power source. It's going to provide constant power and there are documented tests on Panasonic's consistent power output of their batteries showing that there's no credence whatsoever to AW's being the only battery that will work properly in a Provari. Provari has even gone as far as to adjust the level of the internal connection by a few mm's so that other batteries won't make a consistent connection to power. If that ever happens to you, just take a flat head of a screw driver and push it down around the button top so it indirectly raises it's height.
They might be, but that also doesn't mean that there are better options out there that have been developed over time. Look at independent testing and draw your own conclusions. That's what I did. Who wouldn't rather have a 2900mah or even 3400mah over the AW?
/me raises hand!!
Call me jaded, but I'm sticking with what I have learned through almost 3 years of using AW.
Yes, there are younger upstarts with shiny new specs and higher amp ratings than AW. There are also a LOT more reviews on how those young upstarts don't last too long. Bigger does not always mean better.
I chose the Provari because I can carry it with confidence. I choose AW for much the same reason.
I respect your opinion, and appreciate you sharing it, but AW has stood the test of time when it comes to Ecig batteries.
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Hey all,
I'm trying to come up with some lists of parts/orings for popular gear, and I'd like someone with proper measuring tools to
verify my numbers.
I don't want to pay shipping from eu, I'm not gonna buy the reverend's stolen extra parts either.
Not to mention the carbon footprint buying 4 orings and 2 screws have.
Probably made in china, shipped to germany, shipped to UK, shipped to me? No thanks.
I have enough guilt.
So so far for the kayfun
these orings are listed cross section x Inner Diameter cs x id
The infamous 4c: 1.5 x 5m or a #008 works in a jam.
Oring 1C: 1 x 19m
NEed help here:
fill screw : my measurement was initially 2.35 x .5 but these are what i found at mcmaster.
Fill screw: length 5mm
width/pitch 2.5 x .45
or 2.0 x .4
and the post screws, I haven't been able to empty this thing to take a scale to it. you know cause i like it too much.lol
SO if anyone has any idea about the post screw size lmk
I'm trying to come up with some lists of parts/orings for popular gear, and I'd like someone with proper measuring tools to
verify my numbers.
I don't want to pay shipping from eu, I'm not gonna buy the reverend's stolen extra parts either.
Not to mention the carbon footprint buying 4 orings and 2 screws have.
Probably made in china, shipped to germany, shipped to UK, shipped to me? No thanks.
I have enough guilt.
So so far for the kayfun
these orings are listed cross section x Inner Diameter cs x id
The infamous 4c: 1.5 x 5m or a #008 works in a jam.
Oring 1C: 1 x 19m
NEed help here:
fill screw : my measurement was initially 2.35 x .5 but these are what i found at mcmaster.
Fill screw: length 5mm
width/pitch 2.5 x .45
or 2.0 x .4
and the post screws, I haven't been able to empty this thing to take a scale to it. you know cause i like it too much.lol
SO if anyone has any idea about the post screw size lmk
I just found this funny;
From the english manual.
"
Places where short circuit may occur, causes and remedies:
For starters, inspect Kayfun Lite for the presence of foreign metal objects that can cause a short circuit and remove them.
Place / reason: too long ends of the coil are shorting to the walls of the evaporation chamber or the opposite pole
Remedy: Cut ends of the wire, so they would not stick out from under the screw heads
Place / reason: Coil lies too low on the air duct and touches the poles by middle coils.
Remedy: Lift the coil.
Place / reason: Coils touch each other
Remedy: straighten the coils so that neighboring coils do not touch each other
Place / reason: one of the insulators (1i) or (1k) is damaged
Solution: Replace the insulator
If the meter, on the contrary, shows the «infinite resistance», check the coil for breaks."
From the english manual.
"
Places where short circuit may occur, causes and remedies:
For starters, inspect Kayfun Lite for the presence of foreign metal objects that can cause a short circuit and remove them.
Place / reason: too long ends of the coil are shorting to the walls of the evaporation chamber or the opposite pole
Remedy: Cut ends of the wire, so they would not stick out from under the screw heads
Place / reason: Coil lies too low on the air duct and touches the poles by middle coils.
Remedy: Lift the coil.
Place / reason: Coils touch each other
Remedy: straighten the coils so that neighboring coils do not touch each other
Place / reason: one of the insulators (1i) or (1k) is damaged
Solution: Replace the insulator
If the meter, on the contrary, shows the «infinite resistance», check the coil for breaks."
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