Kayfun LITE

[Dusty_D]

For some reason, whenever I refill my kfl or my 91 through the fill screw, it drips juice out the drip tip as I'm squeezing juice into it. Do you guys think I'm maybe squeezing too hard? I've replaced the o ring and it's still leaking when I refill it upside down through the fill hole

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If you're filling with a bottle that seals off the little fill hole, the air pressure created in the tank is pushing air through the juice channels and into the chimney chamber. Gravity is assisting any juice in the chimney chamber into the drip tip, and out the top.

Use of a syringe leaves enough of a gap around the fill hole that air can escape through there and not have to take the chimney route.

 

[Bronze]

For some reason, whenever I refill my kfl or my 91 through the fill screw, it drips juice out the drip tip as I'm squeezing juice into it. Do you guys think I'm maybe squeezing too hard? I've replaced the o ring and it's still leaking when I refill it upside down through the fill hole

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Shouldn't do that...obviously. I'd check to make sure all your orings are in good shape. Then I would make sure all segments of your Kayfun are snugged up. It sounds like there is a better chance the liquid is coming through the combustion chamber into your drip tip. That's a sign of a vacuum leak...hence, check to be sure all segments inside and out are snugged up. Lots of times people think they are snug when they screw it up to the oring. This is not always true. Give it another little turn until the threads bottom out.

 

[benosa562]

That makes total sense!! I'll try using a bottle with a needle on it. Thanks for the quick reply Dusty

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[Bronze]

For some reason, whenever I refill my kfl or my 91 through the fill screw, it drips juice out the drip tip as I'm squeezing juice into it. Do you guys think I'm maybe squeezing too hard? I've replaced the o ring and it's still leaking when I refill it upside down through the fill hole

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

If you're filling with a bottle that seals off the little fill hole, the air pressure created in the tank is pushing air through the juice channels and into the chimney chamber. Gravity is assisting any juice in the chimney chamber into the drip tip, and out the top.

Use of a syringe leaves enough of a gap around the fill hole that air can escape through there and not have to take the chimney route.

Shouldn't do that...obviously. I'd check to make sure all your orings are in good shape. Then I would make sure all segments of your Kayfun are snugged up. It sounds like there is a better chance the liquid is coming through the combustion chamber into your drip tip. That's a sign of a vacuum leak...hence, check to be sure all segments inside and out are snugged up. Lots of times people think they are snug when they screw it up to the oring. This is not always true. Give it another little turn until the threads bottom out.

Try Dusty's fix first.

 

[Dusty_D]

That makes total sense!! I'll try using a bottle with a needle on it. Thanks for the quick reply Dusty

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Oh you're most welcome. I've got nothing else to do all day anyway, except sit around and listen to the bickering in here about Orignals vs Clones*.


* That was a joke!

 

[benosa562]

I'll try both on my next refill!! I've got another question. On my original kfl, I accidentally dropped it right on the 510 and now the threading is a little messed up and it won't screw on to any of my mods. I was wondering if there is a way to fix the threading or is it a lost cause?

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[Bronze]

I'll try both on my next refill!! I've got another question. On my original kfl, I accidentally dropped it right on the 510 and now the threading is a little messed up and it won't screw on to any of my mods. I was wondering if there is a way to fix the threading or is it a lost cause?

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Amazon.com: 7mm X .5 Metric Right Hand Thread Die M7 X 0.5mm Pitch: Home Improvement

Carefully screw it on your connector threads making sure you are "squared up". This cuts metal and will reshape your threads so you need to be careful making sure it is going on straight. If you don't trust yourself, give it to someone who has used taps and dies.

 

[215Z]

Does anyone know how the KFL+ designs sold by Sleepy Hollow and Artimus Sam differ?

 

[TheKiwi]

Does anyone know how the KFL+ designs sold by Sleepy Hollow and Artimus Sam differ?

if im not wrong, sleepyhollow sells the "black russian" clones. an ecf-er, i think his usename is mbliffert or smth like that, he bought a couple and found that the various screws started rusting. I would steer clear of it.

 

[brekec88]

Amazon.com: 7mm X .5 Metric Right Hand Thread Die M7 X 0.5mm Pitch: Home Improvement

Carefully screw it on your connector threads making sure you are "squared up". This cuts metal and will reshape your threads so you need to be careful making sure it is going on straight. If you don't trust yourself, give it to someone who has used taps and dies.

Can I use a thread tap to fix a f'd up 510 connector on a mod?

 

[ricks]

Biting my tongue...(fingers)

Oh you're most welcome. I've got nothing else to do all day anyway, except sit around and listen to the bickering in here about Orignals vs Clones*.


* That was a joke!

 

[TheKiwi]

HYAAAAA I DID IT I DID IT.

My authentic v2 has recently been giving off the sharpest whistle lately. Got sick of it, sanded down the center post insulator just the tiniest bit, and now I can tighten down the centre post AND align the airholes. Victory is mine!!!


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[Bronze]

Can I use a thread tap to fix a f'd up 510 connector on a mod?

Likely not. Thread taps taper at the end. In other words, the tap ends do not cut threads and are unusable. The tap will bottom out before it repairs any threads. That said, I believe there are flat bottom taps. You might want to search around. One thing I might consider is finding a spare 510 male connector and forcing it in the mod. Buyer beware though, it could permanently trash your mod. All depends on how bad the threads are. You can always bring it to a local machine shop and cry on their shoulder to see if they can fix it for you as a favor. This avenue works a whole lot better if you're a damsel in distress. Us dudes are pushovers when it comes to a pretty lady. Good luck if you're a guy or have your wife/GF or willing female friend stand in for you.

 

[Bronze]

HYAAAAA I DID IT I DID IT.

My authentic v2 has recently been giving off the sharpest whistle lately. Got sick of it, sanded down the center post insulator just the tiniest bit, and now I can tighten down the centre post AND align the airholes. Victory is mine!!!


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Detailed instructions please. Step by step. Pictures too if you can. This would be considered a major breakthrough.

 

[Dusty_D]

HYAAAAA I DID IT I DID IT.

My authentic v2 has recently been giving off the sharpest whistle lately. Got sick of it, sanded down the center post insulator just the tiniest bit, and now I can tighten down the centre post AND align the airholes. Victory is mine!!!


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Congratulations! Be careful doing this though. This procedure will affect how the centre post contacts the 510 connector of your mod. Too much taken off will mean that you lose connection. In a mod that does not have an adjustable centre post, you have just rendered it useless.

 

[brekec88]

Likely not. Thread taps taper at the end. In other words, the tap ends do not cut threads and are unusable. The tap will bottom out before it repairs any threads. That said, I believe there are flat bottom taps. You might want to search around. One thing I might consider is finding a spare 510 male connector and forcing it in the mod. Buyer beware though, it could permanently trash your mod. All depends on how bad the threads are. You can always bring it to a local machine shop and cry on their shoulder to see if they can fix it for you as a favor. This avenue works a whole lot better if you're a damsel in distress. Us dudes are pushovers when it comes to a pretty lady. Good luck if you're a guy or have your wife/GF or willing female friend stand in for you.

Might have to try that. Sent my Hana v3 in (to Hana Modz) because my Zenith wouldn't screw on to it. Screwed on to my hana mini v3 and friends full size fine. They said it was because "The Zenith 510 connection part on the atomizer is too short." Well why would it work on 2 other Hana's then? I told them this (multiple times) but they just ignored me and won't email me back now. I will never deal with Hana again. /end rant

Maybe I could put the Zenith in the hand thread die (even though it already works on everything including other Hana's)

 

[TheKiwi]

Congratulations! Be careful doing this though. This procedure will affect how the centre post contacts the 510 connector of your mod. Too much taken off will mean that you lose connection. In a mod that does not have an adjustable centre post, you have just rendered it useless.

Yeap! I literally installed and disassembled it maybe 20 times, each time using the sandpaper to swipe it twice. Will post a picture and guide when I can.

ALSO. I forgot to mention this. Another super easy way to do this is to take one of the fill hole screw' o ring, and slot it through the center post. Helps to:

1) increase the length of the 510 connection very very slightly without compromising the security of the positive block

2) allows you to play around with how much you wanna tighten the 510 center post to align the airhole.

It worked for me until I was washing it and lost my o ring hahahahaahhahaha. My advice would be to try the o ring method and if it doesn't work, try sanding the insulator. Will post pics later!


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[Bronze]

Might have to try that. Sent my Hana v3 in (to Hana Modz) because my Zenith wouldn't screw on to it. Screwed on to my hana mini v3 and friends full size fine. They said it was because "The Zenith 510 connection part on the atomizer is too short." Well why would it work on 2 other Hana's then? I told them this (multiple times) but they just ignored me and won't email me back now. I will never deal with Hana again. /end rant

Rant worthy of posting.

On that note, back in the day when everyone was using Vivi Novas I had a Lavatube where some VN's would screw on fine and others would not screw on at all. Eventually, I figgered out the Chinese make crap and their connectors are mod destroyers. That's when I bought the die and I'd chase the threads on all new attys before I ever screwed them into my mod. With Svoemesto Kayfun, I dare not do this. The threads come perfect and all I could possibly do is make them worse.

 

[Bronze]

Yeap! I literally installed and disassembled it maybe 20 times, each time using the sandpaper to swipe it twice. Will post a picture and guide when I can.

ALSO. I forgot to mention this. Another super easy way to do this is to take one of the fill hole screw' o ring, and slot it through the center post. Helps to:

1) increase the length of the 510 connection very very slightly without compromising the security of the positive block

2) allows you to play around with how much you wanna tighten the 510 center post to align the airhole.

It worked for me until I was washing it and lost my o ring hahahahaahhahaha. My advice would be to try the o ring method and if it doesn't work, try sanding the insulator. Will post pics later!


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Just make sure you make it abundantly clear it is you who is providing us with the instructions so we all have someone we can blame when we F up our Kayfuns.

 

[ricks]

You need a Thread File.

I'll try both on my next refill!! I've got another question. On my original kfl, I accidentally dropped it right on the 510 and now the threading is a little messed up and it won't screw on to any of my mods. I was wondering if there is a way to fix the threading or is it a lost cause?

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