Let's see those patinas!

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Slots

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Akuma 18500 tube with 454 rda
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I'm noticing the design (emblem) on this is standing out (no patina) ... nice
Are you scraping off the patina that gets inside the designs to make them show up before putting the finish coat on ??
I made a point of picking up a copper tube mod that didn't have an etched design, because I wasn't sure what it would look like when finished.
This will be my first try at doing a patina.
I planned on sanding it off with #220 sand paper to start with ... should I use a coarser one to make the patina adhere better ??
Appreciate any info.
 

Mark Howard

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I'm noticing the design (emblem) on this is standing out (no patina) ... nice
Are you scraping off the patina that gets inside the designs to make them show up before putting the finish coat on ??
I made a point of picking up a copper tube mod that didn't have an etched design, because I wasn't sure what it would look like when finished.
This will be my first try at doing a patina.
I planned on sanding it off with #220 sand paper to start with ... should I use a coarser one to make the patina adhere better ??
Appreciate any info.

Depends on what kind of patina yiu are doing if 220 grit is fine enough. On some I can see the 800 grit after a patina.
 

Slots

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Did you get this color because it is brass, or is there another secret :confused:
Did you just use ammonia and salt ?
I love the way it turned out ... a nice contrast to the blues and greens.

And mustard

Ok, thanks,
I watched one video about working with mustard, so I'll watch that again.
Is the mod brass or copper or ???
 

Slots

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Depends on what kind of patina yiu are doing if 220 grit is fine enough. On some I can see the 800 grit after a patina.

I'm trying for a nice ammonia and salt ... blu-ish patina.
I love silver and turquoise native American jewelry, so I picked up a copper w/silver trim mod, and am trying for that look.
I have finer sand paper I can use if you think it would work better.
The video made it look like a fairly thick coating (textured) of patina, but this is my first try, so I can't verify that.
If I can get anything similar to what yours look like, I'll be happy
 

Slots

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Blues from salt are thicker so 220 should be ok

Thank You
I don't want to keep bugging you, but I have one more question.
How you get the greens to come out
Is that from using brass, or bronze, or maybe a secret ingredient, in which case you don't have to tell me :p

I'm going to cut up an el'cheapo copper pipe into 5-6 pieces, and try some of the suggestions I found on all the videos I watched last night Should be fun
Thanks again for your help
 
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Mark Howard

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Thank You
I don't want to keep bugging you, but I have one more question.
How you get the greens to come out
Is that from using brass, or bronze, or maybe a secret ingredient, in which case you don't have to tell me :p

I'm going to cut up an el'cheapo copper pipe into 5-6 pieces, and try some of the suggestions I found on all the videos I watched last night Should be fun
Thanks again for your help

Sometimes it's blue, sometimes it's green. I'm not sure why yet, but I sure wish I knew... ;)
 

Slots

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Sometimes it's blue, sometimes it's green. I'm not sure why yet, but I sure wish I knew... ;)

I wonder if there is a difference in colors, depending on if you use Sea Salt, regular Morton's salt, or the Iodized version :confused:
Also I wonder if it makes a difference if you sprinkle the salt on directly, or dissolve it in the ammonia.
Guess I'll have to try it all with my pieces of copper pipe
Thanks for the info.
 

exnihilo

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While searching, I ran across this:

You can use concentrated Miracle Gro plant fertilizer to oxidize your copper quickly. Mix approximately one part Miracle Gro with three parts water for a bluer patina, or with red wine vinegar for a greener one.[9][10] Apply with a spray bottle or rag, doing so unevenly if you want to create a more natural, aged appearance. It should develop a patina within 30 minutes, and reach a more permanent state within 24 hours.

Sounds interesting.

cg
 
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