Merged old sticky threads (5)

[nubee]

NUBEE .. what do you turn the atomizer with? Your fingers? There isn't much to grab on to when you put the atomizer in first without the cart, and if I put the cart on the atomizer and then screw them in together, I can't tell if I need to keep turning or if the cart is actually turning .. Maybe some needle nose pliers .. maybe my nails [pretty short though] are the problem .. Also, do you unscrew the atomizer to change or top off the cart? Or do you just pull the cart out ? If so, aren't you worried about pulling the insides out? Lotta questions. .. Sorry.

I would avoid using any tools that might damage my atty. I just use my fingers and let them slip as I twist - sort of works to my advantage for good fit and not too tight.

To fill or top off I just remove my cart. I use Elendil's twist off suggestion and twist in the 'tightening' direction so as not to loosen my atty.

The stick connection is pretty firm and I haven't felt like I'd pull the whole guts out ever. There is a little bit of wiggle room around my atty but not a problem.

A snap on / snap off atty would be a neat idea (hint, hint out there) but I guess I just adapt a bit to each e-cig I use - take my time and sort of feel out each ones differences.

Hope this helps

 

[Elendil]

Unit wont work without a battery even on usb !

If i remove the battery then my unit does exactly what yours is doing

FYI the JS in not designed to work without the battery, even plugged in. THe battery must always be present.

 

[Kent C]

I would avoid using any tools that might damage my atty. I just use my fingers and let them slip as I twist - sort of works to my advantage for good fit and not too tight.

To fill or top off I just remove my cart. I use Elendil's twist off suggestion and twist in the 'tightening' direction so as not to loosen my atty.

The stick connection is pretty firm and I haven't felt like I'd pull the whole guts out ever. There is a little bit of wiggle room around my atty but not a problem.

A snap on / snap off atty would be a neat idea (hint, hint out there) but I guess I just adapt a bit to each e-cig I use - take my time and sort of feel out each ones differences.

Hope this helps

The V2 will be my first JS. Sounds like it's a diy kit. Didn't know that. I'll probably be back here when I get it to look over the build instructions.

 

[Elendil]

The V2 will be my first JS. Sounds like it's a diy kit. Didn't know that. I'll probably be back here when I get it to look over the build instructions.

It's not a DIY kit. Screw in the atty and insert battery. Then attach cart.............ready to go. It is no more difficult or DIY than putting the pieces together on any ecig...............

 

[Kent C]

It's not a DIY kit. Screw in the atty and insert battery. Then attach cart.............ready to go. It is no more difficult or DIY than putting the pieces together on any ecig...............

Ok. It was the more detailed instructions on screwing in the atty that threw me. I was thinking along the lines of the 510 - how would I remove the actual atty from the encasement - like grab the atty bridge with some needle nose pliers, turn, etc.... I'll find out soon enough.

 

[Elendil]

Ok. It was the more detailed instructions on screwing in the atty that threw me. I was thinking along the lines of the 510 - how would I remove the actual atty from the encasement - like grab the atty bridge with some needle nose pliers, turn, etc.... I'll find out soon enough.

I've never needed to use pliers to put in a JS atty. I don't think you will have a problem..........

 

[tmbrown327]

My V2 came with a standard atty and I ordered two TAWAs. As it happened, I used one of the TAWAs first, no problem. Then I figured I'd switch it out for the regular, warranted atty (figured I'd use the TAWAs as backups). It took some horsepower to get that atty in, and the only way I can remove it is with a pair of needlenose pliers or a rubber mat gripper. That same atty goes in and comes out of the V1 no problem. I figure it's a minor thread problem, maybe on both sides. Might be the sealant fouling the threads as someone else mentioned somewhere on here. I'll check it out with a microscope when I get to work.

 

[beckah54]

I've noticed that with my new stick too. I have to keep messing with the atomizer to keep it working.
Is the atomizer supposed to screw on tight so it won't turn anymore? Mine just keeping going around and around but never "locks" in.
This is the first Janty stick I have owned and I love it when it works but I wish it worked all the time.

 

[Thoughtnaut]

Battery inserted: three red flashes
Switch on: no LED light status, no heat from atomizer
Switch off: three red flashes
^^ this occurs every time and shows no variation. This is after the battery charged for 9 hours in the stick via USB.

USB in, no battery: USB LED engages and stays engaged, as long as USB is in
USB in, no battery: switch on: no LED light status, no no heat from atomizer
USB in, no battery: switch off: no activity

Help?

I've hesitated to post what I do (I don't want anyone to void their warranty based on my advice), but I've had this problem on four or five occasions and have managed to fix it each time.

Here's what I've noticed. After awhile, a thin film of e-liquid residue can develop on the surface of the circuitboard and the other components on the inside of the JS. More often than not, when this happens, the JS stops working and the LEDs flash like you've described. As you might guess, all it takes to fix this is to remove the residue. I've found that a quick rinse under warm, gently running water does the trick. Of course, this means you'd have to remove the Stick's cover which would, I'm sure, shoot the warranty all to hell. Remove the battery and the atomizer, also, of course. Anyway, after it's thoroughly dried, it'll work just fine, if my experience is any indication.

When this happens, it doesn't matter what atomizer you put in. None will work. The downer is that the e-liquid doesn't seem to evaporate like water, so you can't just leave the JS out for awhile and hope that it gets better.

FYI, I don't have any credentials, here. I've only been with the forum for a couple of months (lurking and learning) and have only been vaping since the end of May. I've had my Jantystick since early June and it is my daily vape and I couldn't be happier with it, despite the fact that I've had to solder a loose wire, the switch is slowly decaying, and I've got the whole condensation issue. I just want you and the forum to know what's worked for me and this solution has worked every time.

Also, compressed air, carefully aimed will speed the drying process considerably. Just don't blow the wires off of the circuitboard.


Regards.

 

[gyrixx]

My V2 came with a standard atty and I ordered two TAWAs. As it happened, I used one of the TAWAs first, no problem. Then I figured I'd switch it out for the regular, warranted atty (figured I'd use the TAWAs as backups). It took some horsepower to get that atty in, and the only way I can remove it is with a pair of needlenose pliers or a rubber mat gripper. That same atty goes in and comes out of the V1 no problem. I figure it's a minor thread problem, maybe on both sides. Might be the sealant fouling the threads as someone else mentioned somewhere on here. I'll check it out with a microscope when I get to work.

How'd you like the TAWA atty's vs. to V1 that came with the JS?

 

[gyrixx]

I know this may belong in a strictly-atomizer thread... but I'm trying to figure out vapor production on this (my first pv) Janty Stick w/ the "best" atomizer.

Using the Janty atomizer I get good initial throat-hit / flavor / vapor and the draw if VERY easy...

I swapped one of the BE112 attys I got as "spares" for a test when the Janty seemed like it was running "dry" / I wan't getting much perceivable vapor any more (I was using the usb-passthrough)... and WAMMOOO!!! - TONS OF VAPOR BUT NO THROAT-HIT... but a noticably much harder draw and MUCH LESS FLAVOR...

Break-in-period on the BE112 attys?

I also ordered a battery (to make 1 complete BE112 setup) and similarly noticed a HUGE AMOUNT OF VAPOR... but little to no throat-hit / flavor... in fact one of my friends (still on the fence about e-cigs) was fairly un-impressed with the pen-style... but MUCH MORE IMPRESSED with my Janty Stick..

Thoughts?

 

[tmbrown327]

How'd you like the TAWA atty's vs. to V1 that came with the JS?

From what I could tell, the TAWAs are identical to the regular (warranteed) atomizers from Janty, I have some of both. I think they just mark them with TAWA so they don't end up getting them for warranty replacements (after the 48 hour DOA period, I think).

 

[tmbrown327]

Oooh, that sounds like a bad idea for PCBs. I would think the you'd at least want to use DI water, and more preferably, isopropyl alcohol. Tap water's never a good idea in electronics, as it is conductive. You might get away with it a few times, but in the long run, it'll bite ya. How come you haven't just asked Janty to replace it?

 

[Kent C]

(I was using the usb-passthrough)... and WAMMOOO!!! - TONS OF VAPOR BUT NO THROAT-HIT... but a noticably much harder draw and MUCH LESS FLAVOR...

Side question on passthru - Haven't gotten mine yet but does the passthru on the JS have the inline battery like the one for the 510? Just wondering because I have the kensington batt pack and someone was mentioning a mod for the 510 pt that omits the inline batt, goes directly into the kensington ... and that it worked better that way too.

 

[gyrixx]

Side question on passthru - Haven't gotten mine yet but does the passthru on the JS have the inline battery like the one for the 510? Just wondering because I have the kensington batt pack and someone was mentioning a mod for the 510 pt that omits the inline batt, goes directly into the kensington ... and that it worked better that way too.

Pass-Through on the JS???

It has a built-in mini-USB port (just like most new cell-phones have)...

So technicall I said "pass-through" but it really just means I plugged my JS in...

I did that to make sure that vapor production was at maximum for each atty...

(And it wasn't...) as I said... Better visible vapor with BE112 Atty's (Sacrifice Flavor / Throat hit)...

 

[gyrixx]

That being said... I've been tempted (my friend actually) to get the 510 & implement the straw mod for better vapor production...

(He just doesn't like the look of the JS...) (Says it looks a little suspicious )...

My reply... "But you get MUCH better vapor / hit

 

[smokin in the girl's room]

My atomizer wouldn't work either...at least I think that was the problem. I tried several atomizers mine, my daughter's, my son-in-law's and none of them worked. Ethan gave me some hints but nothing helped. He is sending a whole new unit at no charge!

 

[smokin in the girl's room]

Quovadis, you should emial JantyUSA and let them know of your problem. They will respond promptly.

 

[Thoughtnaut]

Oooh, that sounds like a bad idea for PCBs. I would think the you'd at least want to use DI water, and more preferably, isopropyl alcohol. Tap water's never a good idea in electronics, as it is conductive. You might get away with it a few times, but in the long run, it'll bite ya. How come you haven't just asked Janty to replace it?

I sent an email inquiry about warranty replacement shortly after I received my Stick (when the red wire became detached from the atomizer) and never received a reply from Janty. The Stick was such a cool device and I was having so much success with quitting the analogs, I just decided (after MUCH deliberation) to take matters into my own hands. Basically, I was impatient. I did my first soldering since I was 12-years-old to get it up and running again.

You're certainly right about the harmful effects of tap water. I'm counting on the fact that the PCB is exposed to the water for so little time to work in my favor. At the very least, I figure 20 seconds of tap water is much better for the JS than the thin film coating the PCB. Undoubtedly, I've just jinxed myself horribly.

Thanks for taking the time to suggest alcohol/distilled water. I actually might make the switch for the sake of being a bit more cautious.


Regards.

 

[Kent C]

Pass-Through on the JS???

It has a built-in mini-USB port (just like most new cell-phones have)...

So technicall I said "pass-through" but it really just means I plugged my JS in...

I did that to make sure that vapor production was at maximum for each atty...

(And it wasn't...) as I said... Better visible vapor with BE112 Atty's (Sacrifice Flavor / Throat hit)...

Thanks. I did get what you said on throat hit - interesting. I was just wondering how the connection on the JS was different than the pt on the 510.