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Thanks! I'm just glad that it's easy and quick to replace the cotton. I just very recently figured out when to squonk to keep cartos and little 510 attys going well. Now I have to figure out a new rhythm (more often) for this set up. 
At least all I have to throw away is a little piece of cotton.
At least all I have to throw away is a little piece of cotton.
After a while, you'll be able to taste when it needs a squonk. It gets a bit acrid, but nothing like a dry hit from silica or mesh.
Here is my latest:
This one is 16ga 26n and has a lot of wick. I was experimenting with directing the airflow more to the side and under
Vape is quite nice.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Here is my latest:
This one is 16ga 26n and has a lot of wick. I was experimenting with directing the airflow more to the side and under
Vape is quite nice.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Thanks! I'm just glad that it's easy and quick to replace the cotton. I just very recently figured out when to squonk to keep cartos and little 510 attys going well. Now I have to figure out a new rhythm (more often) for this set up.
moondragon. with the RM2, I just press firmly (quite "deeply", actually) for a 3 count (with neither monkeys nor mississippis), release, and give the juice a second or two to slink back down into the bottle before vaping it. If you watch with the cap on but drip tip off, you'll see your wikicoil become submerged in juice, and then almost all the juice ebb away. I don't go by flavor for "between-squonks", I just go by how many toots. (since you can't really flood it, it doesn't hurt to goose it sooner rather than later.)
it can also be helpful to do the "peep show" with a full bottle and again with a half or less full one, since you may see different results
Here is the secret micro coil decoder chart for coil inside diameter
Oh no! I've been making mini coils, not micro coils. That's very useful thanks Russ. Not only to avoid confusion, but it includes metric diameters for us foreigners!
NICE, RUSS! The man has laid down the law!
Although most of my variations fall nicely inside the true "micro" parameters; we all should bear in mind what tweaking these dimensions is about. Tighter coil IDs will net hotter results (faster kick time), and you can pro'ly go up a tenth or two in resistance. Bigger IDs (and more wraps) will lend them selves to gentler vapes. I, for one, like a tighter ID and a higher coil placement with my lemonade and my "unflavored". With my absynthe, "snow day" and such, I like a bigger ID, and a wrap or two more for a bigger, gentler vape. I also tend to use a thicker wire gauge for the big ones; dropping the resistance, but not intensifying the vape (on account of the bigger coil thing).
ADDIT: It's surprising to see how much difference one or two tenths of a mm can make.
Although most of my variations fall nicely inside the true "micro" parameters; we all should bear in mind what tweaking these dimensions is about. Tighter coil IDs will net hotter results (faster kick time), and you can pro'ly go up a tenth or two in resistance. Bigger IDs (and more wraps) will lend them selves to gentler vapes. I, for one, like a tighter ID and a higher coil placement with my lemonade and my "unflavored". With my absynthe, "snow day" and such, I like a bigger ID, and a wrap or two more for a bigger, gentler vape. I also tend to use a thicker wire gauge for the big ones; dropping the resistance, but not intensifying the vape (on account of the bigger coil thing).
ADDIT: It's surprising to see how much difference one or two tenths of a mm can make.
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Excellent point, sir! With a half bottle on my squonk technique, it's a five count, vs. a 3 count. I usually refill the bottle at about 1/3 full.
thanks. i try to make at least one helpful post per month in penance for all the lame jokes...
Very helpful! Thanks! I was often flooding cartos, so I need to remember that I don't have to worry about flooding with the RM2. I also remember Russ saying in one of these threads that he re-squonked after 2 or 3 hits (if I remember correctly). I have taken the cap off to watch a few times, so it's just being mindful and adjusting to the new technique. I think also I haven't been pressing in on the bottle long enough.
No penance necessary
I don't mind the jokes here and there, even in the midst of the serious stuff. In my opinion, they are a good reminder to not take all the other stuff too seriously (except for battery safety).
Coils looking nice there Moon... I found like the others said, you can't really drown an RM2 like you can other atties, so I'd say when in doubt, give 'er a squonk!
Over time, you'll be able to discern when you need to resquonk it.
Tapped out on a phone... I think
Over time, you'll be able to discern when you need to resquonk it.
Tapped out on a phone... I think
Question RE: torching resistance wire prior to wrapping.
I haven't done it for months now. Instead I simply fire-n-squeeze once installed till it all glows evenly from the middle. I'm usually good to go withing three pulses, then I'll give it another couple long-hot pulses just to burn off any residual 'stuff' that may have been deposited in the manufacturing process.
I notice that most are doing the pre-torching on the thicker wire. Is this to help get a better initial wrap, or does it serve another purpose?
So far, the thickest I've used is 28g Kanthal and I've had no problems using the method I described above. Would you say the pre-torching is MORE necessary with something like 26g nichrome?
I haven't done it for months now. Instead I simply fire-n-squeeze once installed till it all glows evenly from the middle. I'm usually good to go withing three pulses, then I'll give it another couple long-hot pulses just to burn off any residual 'stuff' that may have been deposited in the manufacturing process.
I notice that most are doing the pre-torching on the thicker wire. Is this to help get a better initial wrap, or does it serve another purpose?
So far, the thickest I've used is 28g Kanthal and I've had no problems using the method I described above. Would you say the pre-torching is MORE necessary with something like 26g nichrome?
For me, a heavy torching takes the fight out of the wire. Makes it a bit more submissive (primarily r41). I still pre-torch all my other wires.
I recently wrapped a couple out here in the field and had to do the pulse and pinch method. About 3-4 pulses and all was even.
On my pre-torched coils, they are practically "plug-and-play"... Maybe one pulse and pinch to get that stubborn wrap, but otherwise it's vape-ready.
YMMV
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
I recently wrapped a couple out here in the field and had to do the pulse and pinch method. About 3-4 pulses and all was even.
On my pre-torched coils, they are practically "plug-and-play"... Maybe one pulse and pinch to get that stubborn wrap, but otherwise it's vape-ready.
YMMV
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
^^ Same reason I pretorch. Makes the coil easier to wrap, and, well, I like fire.
Tapped out on a phone... I think
Tapped out on a phone... I think
Joe, I've been doing the same thing, just torch once now though and no quenching. Then when it's on the mod, fire release squeeze a few times.
It seems that that initial, pre wrapping torch makes the wire more malleable. I also upgraded from a bic to a mini torch. It is much easier that way
It seems that that initial, pre wrapping torch makes the wire more malleable. I also upgraded from a bic to a mini torch. It is much easier that way
Yeah. The quenching only occurs w/R41 when I'm doing a twisted build or a driver that requires a lot of leg manipulation without the coils twisting.
I tell you what! Plain R41 can be beaten into submission easily once you get to know it... Tightly twisted R41 is like wrestling an alligator every time!
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
I tell you what! Plain R41 can be beaten into submission easily once you get to know it... Tightly twisted R41 is like wrestling an alligator every time!
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
I don't torch Nichrome or Kanthal anymore, whatever the gauge. 'S more fun that way.
Seriously, tho. True, it's more malleable after torching.
Seriously, tho. True, it's more malleable after torching.
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