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LReyes66

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28g twisted 12 wrap at 1.2ohm

jabyqeta.jpg


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super_X_drifter

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OG micro coil on viscious ant cyclone BF rba.

1.4 ohm / 10 wraps / .055" ID / 29 ga Kanthal A1 / CVS sterile Rolled Cotton Wick :)
WehjbNH.jpg

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For those with attention to detail: there is another juice feed hole drilled in the post at deck level allowing me the option of using the original feed hole as a wire hole. I opted to use it :)
 
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bender817

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It tastes burnt because It's too tight.

Some of us can take a regular cotton ball or round out of the bag and use it straight up with no cotton taste at all. Maybe slightly in the first and second hit. The looser the better as long as it saturates enough to wet the coil. Cloth would be the same. Too tight, burnt or cloth taste. You gotta let it soak good before you fire it too.

@jd
Yeah I wish I had a mech.. Sometime soon I hope to pick one up for some subohm.

Thanks it was the soaking for sure. I use organic cotton balls all the time, so I know how cotton swells. That wick was very loose.
 

LReyes66

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Just got my first RDA with 3 post setup(igo-w)... Anyone recommend best coil and pick setup? I know how to make microcoils but wicking part I need to learn, at least for RDA lol. Also possibly to have dual coil setup but keep around 1.0-1.5 ohm since I'm restricted by my provari?

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Dominick0311

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Just got my first RDA with 3 post setup(igo-w)... Anyone recommend best coil and pick setup? I know how to make microcoils but wicking part I need to learn, at least for RDA lol. Also possibly to have dual coil setup but keep around 1.0-1.5 ohm since I'm restricted by my provari?

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Dual coil you'll have to use around 12 or 13 wraps of 30g kanthal on a 1/16th drill bit
Here's a pic of one of my duals on my old vari
are5a4as.jpg

Wicking, tear off a piece of cotton, roll in your fingers to create a point on the end to feed it through the coil easily, lightly roll the rest of it, keeping it kind of of loose... Not too tight. You want a slight bit of resistance when you pull it through the coil. You'll know what I'm talking about when you feel it. You don't want it too loose or too tight. Too lose it won't burn as much juice resulting in subpar flavor and vapor... Too tight and the coil will pretty much cut off circulation to the rest of the wick causing wicking problems ie, dry hits


"Aren't you tired of getting dirt dicked in your face" Nacho Libre
 

RedForeman

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Most excellent thread. I had a little time this afternoon and decided to re-coil my nearly new KFL+. This is my second coil. I got a length of 30g (I think) Kanthal with the purchase. The first one was a simple 10 or 11 wrap that measured 2.4Ω and vaped okay. Nothing to write home about, but definitely a bit better than my old Vivi tanks and more consistent to boot.

Anyway, I decided to go thru half my remaining wire and do a parallel coil. Why? I dunno. Because I can, I suppose. Wire is cheap enough to order, besides I have enough left to wind one or two more regular ones if this doesn't work out. Like I did on my first one, I lost count while winding it up and my eyes aren't good enough to count them. Even with a magnifying glass. Partially due to my built in give-a-crap fading with the onset of old age LOL. Might be 11 or 12. Don't know and really not too worried about it.

Fresh install. Looks neat. Measures 2.0Ω
parallel-30-2.0.jpg

Button pressed. This honker takes a minute to heat up. Well, actually about a second and a half. Sitting on a Provari, turned up to 5.0V
parallel-30-2.0-lit.jpg

Here's the bottom half of the chimney installed with the wick trimmed and tucked in. Just a plain cotton ball wick. Rolled gently to about the diameter of the coil and slid thru with a tiny bit of resistance.
parallel-30-2.0-wicked.jpg

Too early to tell how this one will work out. Hits a little warm with more throat hit than I care for. I've learned thru the first coil and a re-wicking (even fumbled a bit and bent my coil a little on the second wick) that these things mellow out as they saturate. If this works like the last one, I'll probably end up dialing the PV down to 4.5V or a little lower once it gets there. Or maybe not. It's already getting better as-is without tasting too hot.

I figured I'd post this up for some feedback from those more adept and experienced with these.
 

LReyes66

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Yeah when I did the twisted 28g coil for my provari at 1.2ohm it took FOREVER to heat up... OK not forever but a second or two. The vape was much more dense and warm with more throat hit. It was nice but the fact that I'd have to warm to up to get the vape I want was enough for me to scratch it and start a new one.

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onjre

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Yeah when I did the twisted 28g coil for my provari at 1.2ohm it took FOREVER to heat up... OK not forever but a second or two. The vape was much more dense and warm with more throat hit. It was nice but the fact that I'd have to warm to up to get the vape I want was enough for me to scratch it and start a new one.

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That's a bit strange to me... I just wrapped up a twisted 28 guage yesterday and got really fast heat up time. But I do agree on the thick warm vape part.

Oh just saw yours was 1.2 ohms that's the difference. Mine is sitting around 0.5.
 

RedForeman

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Yeah when I did the twisted 28g coil for my provari at 1.2ohm it took FOREVER to heat up... OK not forever but a second or two. The vape was much more dense and warm with more throat hit. It was nice but the fact that I'd have to warm to up to get the vape I want was enough for me to scratch it and start a new one.

That's a bit strange to me... I just wrapped up a twisted 28 guage yesterday and got really fast heat up time. But I do agree on the thick warm vape part.

Oh just saw yours was 1.2 ohms that's the difference. Mine is sitting around 0.5.
That would be the limitation of the Provari. I'm guessing you used a mechanical PV to use that 0.5Ω build. I also have a Siam Cube mechanical. One of these days I'll whip up a low-Ω build and give it a whirl. Since I don't have the time to experiment and need a reliable, daily PV, that may involve buying a second KFL+ for the Cube. Damn the luck LOL. That way I'm not depending on just one. On the other hand, the reason I sort of shelved the Cube was that I used a carto tank on it that leaked. That, plus using Vivi Nova tanks, the Provari was just less fiddling. A non-leaking KFL+ built right may bring that Cube back out of storage for more regular use.

No thanks on the bottom feeder RDA setup, cause I know that's coming LOL. Just not my cup-o-tea. I don't care for dripping unless trying out new flavors in a 510 atty. Yeah I know I could get used to managing the feed on a Reo, just not willing to deal with that. I'm lazy enough right now to stick to tanks and a fill it and go method.

I was also concerned with the limitations from the Provari's advance power management and safety features. I went with more vs less coils to make sure I was in the resistance range to get the most watts out of the Provari. Mine is a V2 so limited to 14.50w. See the comparison chart from Provape. The V1 will do a little more, with the compromise being it will do that only at the highest voltage settings. So you'd have to be more precise with the build to hit that sweet spot, giving up a little if you adjust it. The V2 is more uniform all the way down to about 4.2V. I still feel that there's current limiting coming into play with the parallel build I'm using, causing the slow heating.

That said, this great big parallel coil is improving with use. Now after half a tank, I have dialed the power down to 4.5V and now getting a nice, warm, smooth vape off it. I can live with the slow warm up for now. I think the next build will be some 28 or 29g equivalent ribbon wire with the coils not quite so tightly stacked. I'm thinking a ribbon style for max surface area on the wick, with a tiny gap (0.1-0.2mm) between coils to make that even better. Guess I better order some to prove that theory LOL.
 

JeremyR

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Once again showing the dead zone on heat up time. 1.2 on a vari and .5 on a mech are 2 totally different things. Also 1.2 on provari you are lacking power even version 2 with 3.5 amp output. 1.2 @ 3.5 amps = 4.2v 14.7 watts.

.5 @ 4.2v = 8.5 amps, 35w
1.4 on new provari 3.5 amp = max out put 4.9 v at 17w
1.4 on older 2.5 amp provari or any standard vv pv (4-5 amps only possible with stacked 350's)
Maxes out with 1.4 ohm at 3.5v 2.5 amps and 8.75w

As you can see low res can be detrimental to performance on a vv.

To get optimol performance you just need to calculate. For a 2.5 limit a 2.4 ohm coil @ 6v for 15w that will give you maximum power output. If you go lower resistance than you amp limit can handle at 6v you lose power/wattage to the coil. For a 3.5 amp limit a 1.7 ohm would give you the maximum performance @ 6v & 21w.
 
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JeremyR

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RedForeman

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For below 1.4 use the calculator here - Ohm's Law Calculator
Put in your amp limit and 6v ..... 3.5amps 6v = 1.7ohms that is the true limit on new provari 2.5. Giving you highest power output it can handle.
You really need to check out the Provape doc I linked in my last post. There is more in play than a simple amperage ceiling, at least with the v2. It's a truly regulated device, with the newer version improvement being really more linear regulation from 4.2V and up. You are correct that the current regulating feature certainly plays a part in the slow warm up of double wire coils. An unregulated mechanical will throw whatever current the build will stand, where the Provari will stop at 14.5w in my case, provided I set at 4.2V or more.

A hint that I'm maxing out the regulated current on this build is that the battery barely made it 24 hours on this build. Not entirely though, as I did not re-coil until mid-day yesterday. So I'll find out a true measure later today, starting with a freshly charged one just now. The single wire 2.4Ω coil I was using before ran just like any other store-bought coil and gave me nearly two days of battery life. That single wire coil, given the slightly higher resistance would also heat up immediately.

Remember the wattage charts assume a simple, single wire coil. They're really intended as a guide for people selecting the right store-bought coil for a particular battery set up. Double wire, whether dual coils or parallel or twisted wrap, are double the mass of wire and will take more power (Watts) to heat up at a similar rate.
 

JeremyR

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Yeah.. But in general for most vv apv's this rule of thumb works. A twisted 32 or parallel 32 is still about the equivalence of a single strand of 28. And yes ofcourse the length of the coil if over 10-12 will increase heat up time.

But still without even seeing that provap doc, my calculation was correct for max output = 1.2 @ 3.5 amps = 4.2v 14.7 watts. ... Its too bad they don't allow full 3.5 amp power. I'm not completely sure if others like the zmax limit at wattage or volts, iow

Basically I'm trying to make a point on heat up time. You can get that Fast heat up from either high ohm on a vv or sub ohm on a mech anything In between seems to lag.
 
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