Mixing By Weight: Basics 101
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My understanding (I am NOT an Apple product user) is, that some time ago, Apple (Apple/Mac/I-Phone,Pad,etc.) decided to ban "tobacco" related software. This included all software/apps having to do with vaping. So, you may have difficulty finding an Apple e-liquid calculator.
If you are using an Apple laptop/desktop, you might want to look into a Windows compatibility program, like Wine. I have read several successful accounts of people using this to run Windows e-liquid calculators on Apple products. I don't know if smaller/lighter-duty platforms (like I-Pads, or I-Phones) have the ability to run Wine. You will need to do your own research.
Anything larger than about 6"x6" covers the display. She only uses it when a standard envelope feels like it's heavier than an ounce.
Amen to running back and fourth to the post office! I went yesterday and have to go again today! This is the worse part of eBay. I saw a commercial this morning for stamps.com. I don’t know how many of these sites exist but I sure there is a fee so Pay Pal,eBay take a cut already then add the stamp.com then I have start changing for shipping,no more Free Shipping.
What do you sell on eBay? I sell Mods,Tanks etc.
Thank You for the help
Jim
What do you sell on eBay? I sell Mods,Tanks etc.
Thank You for the help
Jim
I spent a few hours exploring the USPS website and you need a Masters Degree to decipher all the information.
So of the information on shipping the boxes that you get Free from the Post Office the price didn’t make any sense what they had listed for shipping cost.
I did save a lot of links to print but I think most of the information I found would probably be incorrect. I think when I ship my packages today if it’s not busy I will talk with the Postal Lady who has worked there 40 years at lease to see if the have understandable information.
I did see a commercial for Stamps.Com but after eBay and PayPal grabs me for their cut then Stamps.com wants $17.95 a month plus you still have to pay for the Postage.I think at that rate I drive a mile to the Post Office.
I think the cheapest way is have the Postal Service pick it up at my house. So I’m going to see what I can get out of the Post Office today.
My buddy sells boxes so I bought 25 4x4x4 which seems to fit all the Mods I sell,he only charged me $6.00 a bundle. I’m going to buy a bundle of 6x4x4 in case I need a little extra room.He offered to give them to me but I will need another 75 and I won’t get them from him again I’m sure if I took them Free.
I did buy some bubble envelopes 6x4 on Amazon but the opening is very small so a Mod won’t fit. Only thing there good for is maybe an RDA if that,glad they were cheap!
It’s been nice meeting you and enjoy bouncing things off you. On good thing is ebay had no listing charge till February and then since I listed so much stuff they emailed me that I have No Listing Fees up to a 100 items before they charge me. So final I get a break on one Fee!
Jim
So I am "inspired" by this thread and will try to switch from the volume mixing to "the way of the scale" but I still have one question: since the OP was (is) having second thoughts about the scale originally suggested (SF-400 D2), what scale should I buy? I have an "el cheapo" but it is limited to 20 grams, so any suggestions are welcome. Thank you all! A special thank you to @Capt.shay for a great thread.
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I think just about any scale in the <$100 price range is going to have its own idiosyncrasies. It is just a matter of finding the one that is going to be the least obnoxious for yourself.
From what I read; American Weigh Scales (LB501) is still satisfactorily used by many DIYers. While others, like myself, still use the SF-400 without any significant issues. Yes, each has its little quirks. But, neither one's quirks are truly detrimental to DIYing.
Remember, as DIYers, our goal is really repeatability... being able to mix the same thing, the same way, time after time. Because, each DIYer has to tweak each recipe to their own preferences, precision ("accuracy") is not the primary concern (and why we don't need $100, $500, or even $1,000+ laboratory-grade scales).
If, I were shopping for a new scale today, both would remain at/near the top of my list.
The three considerations I would have are:
--- Resolution. I, personally would want 0.01mg resolution, to reliably measure individual drops. 0.1mg is just not sensitive enough. And, 0.001 is just too sensitive (ever notice how almost all 0.001mg res. scales come with a wind screen/box? There's a reason for that.).
--- Capacity. For me; 500mg capacity is the minimum I would want. The scale has to accommodate not only the total volume on liquid one desires to make, but also the container. Larger batch sizes, and heavier containers (such as glass), require greater capacity. Remember; the tare feature resets ("zeros out") the display. But, it does NOT reset the scale's total capacity.
--- Dependability. Finally, I would want to choose a scale that has a solid track record. I would look at user reviews and comments. And, look for a scale with minimal complaints, problems, and failures.
As long as a scale can meet these standards; I would say it is worthy of consideration.
Can I ask what you sell on EBay? I sell Mods,Atomizers and some coils. I probably have 30 items up but I try to stick to atomizers because there small and cheaper to ship.
This morning I’ve been looking at boxes on Uline and there fairly cheap,around 32 for a 6x4x3. The place I work for I think buys from them so I will have the girl who buys from them to order my boxes.The smallest amount is 25 then it jumps to 100.
Like today I’ve got to take packages to the Post Office and I hate it! I hate trying to find the right size boxes so for .32 I can fix one of my big issues and buy the boxes.
I was reading a book about Ebay and it said if I print my EBay shipping labels off my computer you get a cheaper rate then hand writing them like we do now. Last week the Post Office told me they were raising their rates again.They did give me a price shipping sheet and I think you can print it from their website too.
You can ship from home using the Post Office and there’s no fees.I’m still trying to figure out how to use the Post Office website to figure out shipping cost.You do have to call I think to get a pickup.
I never realized that not only does Ebay take a percentage but PayPal grabs you too!Seems like everyone takes a part of the pie! Seems like I sell more when I offer Free Shipping,sometimes depending on the cost of the item I roll it into the price. If people think that there not paying the shipping then their not to bright. I saw an item listed from China for 99 with Free Shipping! For .99 I wouldn’t waste my time selling it!!!
Oh yeah, to sell ecig items on EBay your suppose to be authorize seller and I think that’s because they don’t want anyone under 21 to buy any ecig items.Its not like the products have any nicotine in my product.If their under 21 then the store should’ve selling e-liquid to anyone under 21 from buying it.
Well keep in touch and we can bounce thing off each other.
Jim
This morning I’ve been looking at boxes on Uline and there fairly cheap,around 32 for a 6x4x3. The place I work for I think buys from them so I will have the girl who buys from them to order my boxes.The smallest amount is 25 then it jumps to 100.
Like today I’ve got to take packages to the Post Office and I hate it! I hate trying to find the right size boxes so for .32 I can fix one of my big issues and buy the boxes.
I was reading a book about Ebay and it said if I print my EBay shipping labels off my computer you get a cheaper rate then hand writing them like we do now. Last week the Post Office told me they were raising their rates again.They did give me a price shipping sheet and I think you can print it from their website too.
You can ship from home using the Post Office and there’s no fees.I’m still trying to figure out how to use the Post Office website to figure out shipping cost.You do have to call I think to get a pickup.
I never realized that not only does Ebay take a percentage but PayPal grabs you too!Seems like everyone takes a part of the pie! Seems like I sell more when I offer Free Shipping,sometimes depending on the cost of the item I roll it into the price. If people think that there not paying the shipping then their not to bright. I saw an item listed from China for 99 with Free Shipping! For .99 I wouldn’t waste my time selling it!!!
Oh yeah, to sell ecig items on EBay your suppose to be authorize seller and I think that’s because they don’t want anyone under 21 to buy any ecig items.Its not like the products have any nicotine in my product.If their under 21 then the store should’ve selling e-liquid to anyone under 21 from buying it.
Well keep in touch and we can bounce thing off each other.
Jim
Hi brewbear, haven't been as active on the forum (of the net in general) lately but I see your questions were answered quite nicely by IDJoe. There are a bunch of good folks that will help you out if you ask a question in this thread.
Welcome to the way of the weigh!
Question. What can you recommend for a decent scale? Thinking about trying my hand at mixing by weight.
I also have been using the SF-400 scale for more than two years with no problems. I know that many people also use the American Weigh scale you listed and seem quite happy with it. I think either would work well for someone new to mixing by weight.I think just about any scale in the <$100 price range is going to have its own idiosyncrasies. It is just a matter of finding the one that is going to be the least obnoxious for yourself.
From what I read; American Weigh Scales (LB501) is still satisfactorily used by many DIYers. While others, like myself, still use the SF-400 without any significant issues. Yes, each has its little quirks. But, neither one's quirks are truly detrimental to DIYing.
Remember, as DIYers, our goal is really repeatability... being able to mix the same thing, the same way, time after time. Because, each DIYer has to tweak each recipe to their own preferences, precision ("accuracy") is not the primary concern (and why we don't need $100, $500, or even $1,000+ laboratory-grade scales).
If, I were shopping for a new scale today, both would remain at/near the top of my list.
The three considerations I would have are:
--- Resolution. I, personally would want 0.01mg resolution, to reliably measure individual drops. 0.1mg is just not sensitive enough. And, 0.001 is just too sensitive (ever notice how almost all 0.001mg res. scales come with a wind screen/box? There's a reason for that.).
--- Capacity. For me; 500mg capacity is the minimum I would want. The scale has to accommodate not only the total volume on liquid one desires to make, but also the container. Larger batch sizes, and heavier containers (such as glass), require greater capacity. Remember; the tare feature resets ("zeros out") the display. But, it does NOT reset the scale's total capacity.
--- Dependability. Finally, I would want to choose a scale that has a solid track record. I would look at user reviews and comments. And, look for a scale with minimal complaints, problems, and failures.
As long as a scale can meet these standards; I would say it is worthy of consideration.
Could someone please point me to the correct squeeze bottles on Amazon please and thank you
Fran, how many are you looking for (and what sizes)? You wanting just onezy-twozy? Or, are you looking for bunches?Could someone please point me to the correct squeeze bottles on Amazon please and thank you
For a limited quantity; I like One Stop DIY Shop.
For large quantities; Dropper Bottles gets my vote. You have to buy in lots of 100. But, they let you mix quantities and sizes to make up the 100. You just pay the 100 count price for the largest (most expensive) size. You end up paying a bit more per bottle; but you get usable quantities and sizes. And, even at the higher pricing, they are still some of the least expensive bottles I have found.
Afraid I am worthless for Amazon recommendations... sorry.
Could someone please point me to the correct squeeze bottles on Amazon please and thank you
Fran, how many are you looking for (and what sizes)? You wanting just onezy-twozy? Or, are you looking for bunches?
For a limited quantity; I like One Stop DIY Shop.
For large quantities; Dropper Bottles gets my vote. You have to buy in lots of 100. But, they let you mix quantities and sizes to make up the 100. You just pay the 100 count price for the largest (most expensive) size. You end up paying a bit more per bottle; but you get usable quantities and sizes. And, even at the higher pricing, they are still some of the least expensive bottles I have found.
Afraid I am worthless for Amazon recommendations... sorry.
Important to ask what the bottles are to be used for? ie. nic base or pg, vg or final ejuice mixes. That first would determine what is recommended yes?
Just for PG,VG and nic if I decide to go that route instead of pre mixing my base.Was looking at these
https://smile.amazon.com/Condiment-...=1549574390&sr=8-3&keywords=Condiment+bottles
https://smile.amazon.com/Condiment-...=1549574390&sr=8-3&keywords=Condiment+bottles
You could certainly go that route. However, I prefer a twist-top cap for my bases, when measuring by weight. The twist top (I feel) gives me greater control over dispensing. By only partially opening the cap, I can restrict flow, and give myself a slower, more controlled pour.
When you get your bottles (whichever ones you choose), and before you fill them with your real ingredients, I would strongly encourage you to practice pouring/weighing with water. Water will be thinner than your other ingredients, and therefore, more difficult to pour/control. When you can control/stop a pour (using water) on specific targeted weights, you are ready to start using real ingredients.
These are the bottles I use:
(from Nicotine River)
Something to think about when choosing sizes:
The weight/volume of the ingredient affects the pouring speed. A full/nearly full large bottle is going to want to pour faster, than a smaller bottle, or a nearly empty bottle. Just because, the weight of all the extra liquid is trying to push its way out, when the bottle is inverted.
I have found a couple of ways to help control this:
-- Smaller bottles naturally have less liquid force/pressure, to compensate for. Consider using a smaller bottle and re-fill more frequently. It is all about finding a balance between convenience and control.
And, in the case of nicotine-containing ingredients (nicotine concentrate, or diluted nicotine base), remember to consider: the possible effect of oxidation, caused by long exposure to excessive headspace/air.
For my usage; I find a 2-4oz. bottle gives me a 3-ish month quantity... enough to not have to refill every mixing session, but not so much that the nic oxidation hurts the quality of my recipes.
Because PG, and VG, are much less affected by air exposure; I find 8-16oz bottles are fine.
-- Only open the twist cap a small amount. Open just enough to allow the liquid to come out... slowly. The thicker/more viscous the liquid, the more open the tip can be.
-- Tilt the bottle slowly. By tilting the bottle, only enough to let the liquid reach the tip of the bottle, you can minimize the pressure the liquid exerts on itself.
-- Use the back pressure/vacuum/suction, that naturally occurs when pouring, to work in your favor. When you squeeze out a liquid, and then stop squeezing; the plastic wants to return to its original shape, and suck air into the bottle (stopping the flow of liquid). By first squeezing a bit of air out of the bottle (while still upright), and then beginning to pour; you can use the squeeze-release/suctioning action, to give yourself greater control.
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