MVP Owners Group-into the next generation…

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FCastle

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So tempting to buy at that price, but will hold out for the V3. Just replaced my last one and have not used it yet. I've been focusing my efforts on the stick and keeping the mvp2 in new condition. Anyone know if the battery should be depleted or full when not in use?
Usually you want to store this type of battery at around 60% capacity. Fully draining the battery stresses the battery, so you want to have enough charge that it won't drop below 10%-20% capacity. Even when not in use the battery will drain, though very slowly. Having the battery fully charged also stresses the battery, so ideally don't store it fully charged either. If storing for a significant time I'd charge it to 3.9v or so.
 
What question will it solve? You are the ONLY one on this site that thinks this MVP 20 is the V3. innokin has been very clear that the MVP 20 is only an improvement on the V2. I don't know why you are dead set on incorrect information by vendors. If you want to know what innokin is doing check the innokin site. The MVP 20 is NOT the V3. The V3 will be an at least 30w plus device with other structural changes.

If you read the blog by the vendor there you will see what the blog was mentioning a conversation with Innokin about the V3 going upto 20w and to be out soon and then came the MVP 20W! The post there was right before Thanksgiving. This is what the vendors are calling the new MVP themselves. Generally they get the correct information on things long before we do.

Even Innokin uses a couple different names... probably the 'name' and the 'model'...

Product page calls it the "iTaste MVP 20W" and then refers to it as the "MVP20W" right on the same page...
-Source: iTaste MVP 20W

The manual is up now in PDF... and within that, they seem to only refer to it as the "MVP20W"
-Source: http://innokin.com/manuals/MVP20W.pdf

Just because it is the new version doesn't always mean a company will label it the same way V1, V2, V3 but simply MVP 20W to put the emphasis on 20 watts. They seem to be modeling this one after the latest 30w and 50w compact box mods that are coming out and want to market it as a new 20w not the same old MVP with a twist. The iTaste VV V3s now are seen right away as the V4s in progressive order there as did the eGo-V V2, V3, and V4 Mega batteries With Innokin you have to watch what tanks are new at about the same time as a new model comes out since they will packaged together in the full kits.

I wish I had too!! Oh, the heartache it would have saved for me.

Same here but without having any good tanks to put on top and not being out until a 1 1/2yrs. after I first started a lot of $$$ went into not so good stuff! while the old Vamo V2, 650mah Twists, and Spinner weren't total wastes since the March 2013 pair of Twists are still in one of the mod stands here at the moment! :laugh:
 

lucky_x16

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Same here but without having any good tanks to put on top and not being out until a 1 1/2yrs. after I first started a lot of $$$ went into not so good stuff! while the old Vamo V2, 650mah Twists, and Spinner weren't total wastes since the March 2013 pair of Twists are still in one of the mod stands here at the moment! :laugh:

I agree there also, I attempted e-cigs 4 times until I found the right combination. My REO was not cutting it as I am a flavor chaser, and having a couple good back up tanks handy that could satisfy my other flavor needs, just wasn't there in the beginning.
 
A Quick Bump here with the vendor specs shows that the new MVP 20W still sees the usb out port included.

Technical Specifications:

Operating Voltage: 3.3V-7.5 V
Operating Wattage: 6.0W-.20W
Standby current: 100uA max
Maximum output Wattage: 20W
Maximum output Current:6A
Maximum output Voltage: 7.5V
Clearomizer Resistance: 1.0 Ohm (minimum)
Battery: Built-in 2600 mAh polymer Li-Ion rechargeable battery.
Charging: Micro USB DC5V/1000mA
OUTPUT port :DC5V /1000mA

>>>OUTPUT port :DC5V /1000mA<<< equals 1Amp So that option is still seen! Innokin simply dumped the longer connector since the tanks that run at the higher watts are all 510 threaded to begin with.
 
I agree there also, I attempted e-cigs 4 times until I found the right combination. My REO was not cutting it as I am a flavor chaser, and having a couple good back up tanks handy that could satisfy my other flavor needs, just wasn't there in the beginning.

It was a full six months before I say to myself I knew the time had come since the first cig look alikes, disposables tried at first, plus some membership ad for a trial which proved to be more of a racket with overpriced useless pre-filled junk putting it mildly I wasn't finding what was needed while I knew I was still on the right track. All the eGo batteries up until seeing the MVP 2.0 were a temp filler after I stopped lighting up but still something else was going to be needed to make it last!

The MVP followed by the better batteries which are still in use despite a couple of premature DOAs and one mod quitting too soon along with "better tanks" as seen once again lately have been the key factors! The MVP2.0 however has now seen it's day since it won't efficiently run the new tanks and was packed away. Once the MVP 20W comes in the same will be the case for the VTR which has a Nautilus on it I will simply move over to the new MVP and pack that in it's own case. At least those two have lived long enough to be retired compared to some other batteries and mod that didn't make it!
 

lucky_x16

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It was a full six months before I say to myself I knew the time had come since the first cig look alikes, disposables tried at first, plus some membership ad for a trial which proved to be more of a racket with overpriced useless pre-filled junk putting it mildly I wasn't finding what was needed while I knew I was still on the right track. All the eGo batteries up until seeing the MVP 2.0 were a temp filler after I stopped lighting up but still something else was going to be needed to make it last!

The MVP followed by the better batteries which are still in use despite a couple of premature DOAs and one mod quitting too soon along with "better tanks" as seen once again lately have been the key factors! The MVP2.0 however has now seen it's day since it won't efficiently run the new tanks and was packed away. Once the MVP 20W comes in the same will be the case for the VTR which has a Nautilus on it I will simply move over to the new MVP and pack that in it's own case. At least those two have lived long enough to be retired compared to some other batteries and mod that didn't make it!

When I first tried stopping, OMFG what a joke. I met my e-cig vendor on a Goldwing forum, and took him for the "authority" he claimed to be. The cig alike batteries 900mah were the best part about the purchase, the cartos and juice mix he kept pushing were messed up. I have never been able to get a good clean draw from 18mg or higher, and thats what he insisted that I needed to be at. Then there were the cartos. No one had ever told me about drip tips, Burnt lips sucked!!
It was not until a Goldwing ralley the following summer that I was introduced to REO's, then had to get the cartos to work. Me and cartos just do not work well together.
Once I logged on to this site, and ordered my RM2 from Rob, things got easier.
Glad I did not give up.
 

JimmyDB

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A Quick Bump here with the vendor specs shows that the new MVP 20W still sees the usb out port included.
>>>OUTPUT port :DC5V /1000mA<<< equals 1Amp So that option is still seen! Innokin simply dumped the longer connector since the tanks that run at the higher watts are all 510 threaded to begin with.

I am a bit confused by the USB specs, both input and output though... the manual says to use a 500mA charger... but they list the input at 1000mA in the technical specifications. The manual also lists the USB output function as 500mA in the section devoted to it... but again, on the last page (technical specifications) they show it as 1000mA. I'm just waiting for mine to show up, then it will be a couple quick tests to know which values are correct.
 
When I first tried stopping, OMFG what a joke. I met my e-cig vendor on a Goldwing forum, and took him for the "authority" he claimed to be. The cig alike batteries 900mah were the best part about the purchase, the cartos and juice mix he kept pushing were messed up. I have never been able to get a good clean draw from 18mg or higher, and thats what he insisted that I needed to be at. Then there were the cartos. No one had ever told me about drip tips, Burnt lips sucked!!
It was not until a Goldwing ralley the following summer that I was introduced to REO's, then had to get the cartos to work. Me and cartos just do not work well together.
Once I logged on to this site, and ordered my RM2 from Rob, things got easier.
Glad I did not give up.

You were getting stiffed back then when first starting out. At first not knowing just what even on the market the only thing found was the cig size brands even on lengthy web searches not the other vendors where you buy anything from mods, tanks, ejuice, RDAs, you name it. I was in contact with one person who pointed me at the Vamo V2 months later and then had the chance to look over the volume on vendor had to offer in most every catagory. Then around then Bloog started carrying their larger eGo-C style batteries that saw five little leds light up at the bottom of the battery to indicate when the battery was low plus 808 threaded clearomizers being the upgrade out of those tin refillable blanks!

I am a bit confused by the USB specs, both input and output though... the manual says to use a 500mA charger... but they list the input at 1000mA in the technical specifications. The manual also lists the USB output function as 500mA in the section devoted to it... but again, on the last page (technical specifications) they show it as 1000mA. I'm just waiting for mine to show up, then it will be a couple quick tests to know which values are correct.

The usb output port supplies 1a while the actual charging requirement is less being about a 1.2 amp.
 
The load depends on what is being charged from the port itself. The one thing to remember is that specifications like these only are 100% under ideal circumstances according the manufacturer's info. iTaste MVP 20W

The 1A output is the supply output not the actual current being drawn by a device in particular. If the device draws 450-750mA even 900mA there's an adequate supply. That's what that shows. The MVP isn't going to simply push 1A continuously into something. The device instead draws from that.
 

JimmyDB

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The load depends on what is being charged from the port itself. The one thing to remember is that specifications like these only are 100% under ideal circumstances according the manufacturer's info. iTaste MVP 20W

The 1A output is the supply output not the actual current being drawn by a device in particular. If the device draws 450-750mA even 900mA there's an adequate supply. That's what that shows. The MVP isn't going to simply push 1A continuously into something. The device instead draws from that.

Yes, I understand this, thanks. I'm guessing they made a mistake when writing the manual, I hope they did... if the battery charger can actually draw 1A , then that is another improvement over the original.
 

Monotremata

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The load depends on what is being charged from the port itself. The one thing to remember is that specifications like these only are 100% under ideal circumstances according the manufacturer's info. iTaste MVP 20W

The 1A output is the supply output not the actual current being drawn by a device in particular. If the device draws 450-750mA even 900mA there's an adequate supply. That's what that shows. The MVP isn't going to simply push 1A continuously into something. The device instead draws from that.
Exactly. A device needing power will only draw what it needs. You will NEVER overpower a device unless you are using an unmatched voltage in the equation..

A great example is my guitar's pedalboard. I have a multi output 9v power supply feeding 10+ 9v effects pedals. The supply itself is capable of outputting 1800 milliamps (or 1.8 amps), but this is the TOTAL available. Each one of my pedals only draws between 5-18 milliamps, I've got MILES to go. The power supply is like a big "pool" of energy, its not a running current that shoves it all down your throat at once, each device just "drinks" what it needs from the pool..
 

pufZeppelin

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Exactly. A device needing power will only draw what it needs. You will NEVER overpower a device unless you are using an unmatched voltage in the equation..
A great example is my guitar's pedalboard. I have a multi output 9v power supply feeding 10+ 9v effects pedals. The supply itself is capable of outputting 1800 milliamps (or 1.8 amps), but this is the TOTAL available. Each one of my pedals only draws between 5-18 milliamps, I've got MILES to go.


The power supply is like a big "pool" of energy, its not a running current that shoves it all down your throat at once, each device just "drinks" what it needs from the pool..



you said that Very Well !

:thumb:
 
Yes, I understand this, thanks. I'm guessing they made a mistake when writing the manual, I hope they did... if the battery charger can actually draw 1A , then that is another improvement over the original.

A battery charger simply supplies the current while a battery with any form of chip to regulate things will only draw what it needs from the total supply. On the MVP 20W's output port the 1A is the total supply current available that a cell phone or other device taps into. The manual should be showing the same thing as far as specifications as the product page at Innokin since that's the manufacturer's own page seen there.

The only time anything should be found different from the other would be a revision due to some sort of product upgrade on the same model after it first comes out. Either the product or user manual found in error wasn't updated with the revision notice included. Some are now claiming to be able to run the Atlantis sub ohm tank on the iStick due to getting an updated chip card in theirs?

Exactly. A device needing power will only draw what it needs. You will NEVER overpower a device unless you are using an unmatched voltage in the equation..

A great example is my guitar's pedalboard. I have a multi output 9v power supply feeding 10+ 9v effects pedals. The supply itself is capable of outputting 1800 milliamps (or 1.8 amps), but this is the TOTAL available. Each one of my pedals only draws between 5-18 milliamps, I've got MILES to go. The power supply is like a big "pool" of energy, its not a running current that shoves it all down your throat at once, each device just "drinks" what it needs from the pool..

If you have 18 pedals with 18amps available and each pedal only drew 1a you would have an even split across the board. On the Jackery 12,000mah Portable Charger here the picture on the box shows two IPhones being charged together since the 2a total is first divided into two usb charging ports to end up with 1A on each. The IPhone takes about 900mah or so away. When going to charge a pair of them that would leave 100mA per port or a total of 200mA as surplus.

Now with certain ecig batteries here comes another problem. Batteries alone with any protection circuits don't know the difference between 1mA and 1A! The eGo batteries in a starter kit will be plugged by way of a 650ma usb charging adapter while a smaller 180mah cig size battery will use a 450ma. If you try charging the amller battery with the eGo adapter you automatically damage to the battery and worse if the battery overheats from drawing too much. The larger batteries and mods on the other hand that included regulation and protection circuits will automatically limit how much is drawn to prevent overheating.
 

JimmyDB

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A battery charger simply supplies the current while a battery with any form of chip to regulate things will only draw what it needs from the total supply. On the MVP 20W's output port the 1A is the total supply current available that a cell phone or other device taps into. The manual should be showing the same thing as far as specifications as the product page at Innokin since that's the manufacturer's own page seen there.

The only time anything should be found different from the other would be a revision due to some sort of product upgrade on the same model after it first comes out. Either the product or user manual found in error wasn't updated with the revision notice included. Some are now claiming to be able to run the Atlantis sub ohm tank on the iStick due to getting an updated chip card in theirs?



If you have 18 pedals with 18amps available and each pedal only drew 1a you would have an even split across the board. On the Jackery 12,000mah Portable Charger here the picture on the box shows two IPhones being charged together since the 2a total is first divided into two usb charging ports to end up with 1A on each. The IPhone takes about 900mah or so away. When going to charge a pair of them that would leave 100mA per port or a total of 200mA as surplus.

Now with certain ecig batteries here comes another problem. Batteries alone with any protection circuits don't know the difference between 1mA and 1A! The eGo batteries in a starter kit will be plugged by way of a 650ma usb charging adapter while a smaller 180mah cig size battery will use a 450ma. If you try charging the amller battery with the eGo adapter you automatically damage to the battery and worse if the battery overheats from drawing too much. The larger batteries and mods on the other hand that included regulation and protection circuits will automatically limit how much is drawn to prevent overheating.

Nah, the battery charging circuit should be controlling the voltage (and hence the amperage) of the charging process, not any battery protection circuit... except in the case of over-current protection etc where there is a set limit at the amount of current which can be passed into/out of the battery cell. The charging procedure should be a mix of varying voltage and varying current and part of a feedback loop and generally depends on the internal resistance of the battery to do this.

Yes, I understand the charge circuit might be able to output 1A... but since they suggest (otherwise voiding the warranty or something like that) using a 500mA charger... I would figure they either limited the circuit to that... OR they made a mistake and should have suggested using a supply with up to 1A capability. Boy oh boy do I hope the charge circuit has some sweet surprises in store for us... like being able to source the additional 500mA+ for bypass use OR charging the batteries faster by being able to draw 1A (when reasonable and part of the CC/CV charging procedure) OR offsetting any USB output draw with the additional power.

Yes, I agree... el'cheapo chargers that are very dumb can cause very nasty things to happen to el'cheapo ego batteries that don't have proper protection and fail safes.
 
Nah, the battery charging circuit should be controlling the voltage (and hence the amperage) of the charging process, not any battery protection circuit... except in the case of over-current protection etc where there is a set limit at the amount of current which can be passed into/out of the battery cell. The charging procedure should be a mix of varying voltage and varying current and part of a feedback loop and generally depends on the internal resistance of the battery to do this.

Yes, I understand the charge circuit might be able to output 1A... but since they suggest (otherwise voiding the warranty or something like that) using a 500mA charger... I would figure they either limited the circuit to that... OR they made a mistake and should have suggested using a supply with up to 1A capability. Boy oh boy do I hope the charge circuit has some sweet surprises in store for us... like being able to source the additional 500mA+ for bypass use OR charging the batteries faster by being able to draw 1A (when reasonable and part of the CC/CV charging procedure) OR offsetting any USB output draw with the additional power.

Yes, I agree... el'cheapo chargers that are very dumb can cause very nasty things to happen to el'cheapo ego batteries that don't have proper protection and fail safes.

Well you know when a manufacturer specifies not using anything over a certain level they mean it since they haven't put any type of limiter into something. I hear these people say "well it will charge faster if I use...." and once done you can't reverse any damage. When you go to plug in an eGo battery with the usb adapter included that sets a limit of what the battery can draw from the 3.3v pc or 5v ac adapter provides. If the ac adapter comes from the same ecig company the wall plug will only provide 650ma for their larger and 400-450ma for their smaller batteries by default since those matched up by design.
 

caroloto

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As you know I had ordered a green MVP20 from VaporBeast which came today and tried it with a Protank mini 2. The same one I had already on my MVP2 with the same V, I can tell the differences. The flavor is clearer (better) and a nice vapor. The button is much easier to push, so use to the MVP2 I thought I wasn't holding it in.

I decided to order MVP Sleeve $4.99 in green for the new MVP20 from Madtown (member of ECF) tonight the total is $7.49 with shipping. INNOKIN iTASTE MVP SLEEVES - MADTOWN VAPOR I have already gotten one from them before in aqua for my MVP2.

I got my sleeve today! By the way their e-juice is pretty darn good so don't forget to check out the rest of their site too.
 
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