Need help picking the best battery for Sub Ohm Vaping

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icyice

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Dude! It's your thread. Read the first response. :blink:

(be responsible with your threads people . . . . . . read them)

I know you aint talkin bout me!!!

Hah.

No seriously though, my bad if my recent post offended you or anything, but I was just asking the dude if he's vaping at Sub Ohm's because of how gracious he was about the MNKE'S. I get that their good batteries and have a high max con. rate, but the fact that he said he noticed that they hit harder, makes me question if he's on SUB OHMS!!!
 

icyice

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They do hit harder than the AW2000. I haven't compared them to AW1600 (but would guess AW1600 would have a slight edge on the MNKE). I vape .4-.8Ω, and a little higher with Micro-Coils (.9-1.2Ω)

I wasn't offended, just razzin'.

Oh, and yes. Vapdivrr vapes sub1 too.

Forsure, as long as there are no hurt feelings then we are all good.

Have you checked out PoweWholeSale.Net though?

They have MNKE 18650 IMR's for around $4 a piece! I know this price seems wayyyy too low but the site seems legit, do you know anything about them?

Discount China Wholesale MNKE IMR18650 3.7v Li-MN Rechargable Battery [3691]- $4.09 - PowerWholeSale

Does anyone know?
 

Jeremy Evans

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LOL those heli guys barely break a sweat.... On road is where it is at.
my setup, 6Slipo(65C Constant / 130C+ Burst) pulling a 10500kv motor on tarmac.

doing a few test runs of that was enough to melt the battery connectors.... lets just say i wont do that again, was fun while it lasted though.:unsure:

I think that is the standard for RC Onroad and off, you build it up, test and break, upgrade this and that just to break the next. It's a money thieving process
 

BuzzKilla

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didnt help me when i accidentally went full throttle and the vehicle went top speed (65mph) into a concrete pillar. $320 damage...
air, hydro, or ground... an oops! will cost big money regardless.


I guess this can relate to e-cigs too. play with the wrong batteries and boom catastrophic failure....
research and common sense is always a required, but not always present.
 

Jeremy Evans

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didnt help me when i accidentally went full throttle and the vehicle went top speed (65mph) into a concrete pillar. $320 damage...
air, hydro, or ground... an oops! will cost big money regardless.


I guess this can relate to e-cigs too. play with the wrong batteries and boom catastrophic failure....
research and common sense is always a required, but not always present.

Yup same crap with Kyosho buggy, after waiting weeks to find the parts I needed to fix it, playing with a set of bald street stickies on it, I ended up ballooning a tire in a turn and when it finally caught traction it went straight at mailbox, same parts I had trouble finding and then some broken again. Havent touched it since. That is the slowest one I own, my Revo has been clocked by a police radar and GPS at 80+, it's a beast. My little Traxxas Gymkhana has done 70+ with lipos, confirmed with GPS. The Kyosho is the only thing with a stock motor on it still........ for now

In the vape world of Sub Ohm setups it like when you make a great coil on mesh and it's going good and then short on the top and it pops the wire. SMH (happened 3x this morning trying to setup my genny with some ribbon wire.)
 
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vapdivrr

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I know you aint talkin bout me!!!

Hah.

No seriously though, my bad if my recent post offended you or anything, but I was just asking the dude if he's vaping at Sub Ohm's because of how gracious he was about the MNKE'S. I get that their good batteries and have a high max con. rate, but the fact that he said he noticed that they hit harder, makes me question if he's on SUB OHMS!!!

yes I vape genesis attys between .6 to .8 usually, and the comparison was to aw/imr 18650, 2000mah. definatly seems to hit a little harder.
 

vapdivrr

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yes, the coating is important.... it keeps your mod from grounding out on the battery....
on a mechanical where the button makes contact with the negative - it would constantly fire, making the button useless.
on a mechanical where the button makes contact with the positive - it would hard short, when button is pressed.

either situation is not desirable.

but there is a fix, THIS stuff, the 1.5~2" is enough to re shrink wrap your batteries.

all you need is that and a blow drier (safer than a lighter).

thanks killa
 

vapdivrr

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Kevlar tape works well too. Not as pretty as heat shrink but it's durable... It's Kevlar.
7c8d997829e6465d3aa3e87266a24df2_zps3dcb6adc.jpg

might try this too, thanks. will this stuff bend over to the bottom? I see you have it on the sides, although I cant see the neg end, but in my case I would need it on the bottom neg end.
 

jasl90

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might try this too, thanks. will this stuff bend over to the bottom? I see you have it on the sides, although I cant see the neg end, but in my case I would need it on the bottom neg end.

It will but it's not very pretty. That said, it's not necessary to do so. I refuse to use a mod that relies on the battery's insulation on the bottom. There's too much wear and tear in that area for me to trust the thin heat shrink on it's own. That was my biggest gripe with the Noble 1... and the 1st thing I fixed, before I even attempted to use it...
768d4c057a90668835208349349d1e63_zps5b7f9097.jpg


I've got another CGR18650CH had to be completely re-wrapped (it got left in my pants pocket for a full wash cycle), including up & over the lip where the neg tube meets the pos top cap. It's ugly but it works. I'll take a pic when I get home.

Edit: If i did need to cover the outer edges of the bottom. I'd lay a two pieces flat, covering the bottom and wrap the ends up the side of the battery. Then use an X-Acto knife to cut a hole for the button contact. That would insure a flat level bottom.
 
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vapdivrr

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It will but it's not very pretty. That said, it's not necessary to do so. I refuse to use a mod that relies on the battery's insulation on the bottom. There's too much wear and tear in that area for me to trust the thin heat shrink on it's own. That was my biggest gripe with the Noble 1... and the 1st thing I fixed, before I even attempted to use it...
768d4c057a90668835208349349d1e63_zps5b7f9097.jpg


I've got another CGR18650CH had to be completely re-wrapped (it got left in my pants pocket for a full wash cycle), including up & over the lip where the neg tube meets the pos top cap. It's ugly but it works. I'll take a pic when I get home.

Edit: If i did need to cover the outer edges of the bottom. I'd lay a two pieces flat, covering the bottom and wrap the ends up the side of the battery. Then use an X-Acto knife to cut a hole for the button contact. That would insure a flat level bottom.

gotcha, thanks for the info. so you actually added the delrin to the connection in your mod?
 

jasl90

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gotcha, thanks for the info. so you actually added the delrin to the connection in your mod?

Nylon actually... Held in place with LocTite Red (which is why it looks pink)... Yea, I added it myself. It was just bare metal when it came from 310 Vapors. I spent about 20 mins searching the carpet thinking that it had to have fallen out... I mean no one would be dumb enough to sell a mod w/o an insulator in the switch... Right?... Wrong...

Looked up pics of Noble switches online... They were all bare metal.
 
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jasl90

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I've got another CGR18650CH had to be completely re-wrapped (it got left in my pants pocket for a full wash cycle), including up & over the lip where the neg tube meets the pos top cap. It's ugly but it works. I'll take a pic when I get home.
Not as pretty as heat shrink but it works...
690FFA5E_zpse2b59eee.jpg
 

vapdivrr

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Nylon actually... Held in place with LocTite Red (which is why it looks pink)... Yea, I added it myself. It was just bare metal when it came from 310 Vapors. I spent about 20 mins searching the carpet thinking that it had to have fallen out... I mean no one would be dumb enough to sell a mod w/o an insulator in the switch... Right?... Wrong...

Looked up pics of Noble switches online... They were all bare metal.

good idea, and thanks
 
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