Need help picking the best battery for Sub Ohm Vaping

[cowboy6591]

Hi all would like some advise. What we really want to know is how long the batteries will last in the Mecanical RBA vaping range. The lower I go the more work. I tested the battery all the way down to 2.75 but for simplification and ease, I was thinking that the cutoff for good vaping on my chart at .63hm should be at around 3.2V. I don't think anyone on a mechanical and RBA would want to do below 16 Watts? What do you think? Or should I make it 3.0 Which is 14.28 Watts?
Any votes?

My premise is that I don't give a hoot how long the battery lasts, only how long it stays in the Zone. So what do you think the bottom of the Zone should be?

My sentiments exactly;
When I went here: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php



I set my amp at 5, then left a sticky peace of tape [on my monitor] on the 3.5 volt graph at 1 hour.

Then flipped through the brand names and models for a 18650 batt that will hold 3.5 volts an hour down the road, granted this is not “Pulse” drains but at least a goal to focus on.



I am surprised how many batteries didn't make the grade but soared all the way to 3 hours down to 2.5 volts, YUK!! I don't care about 2.8 volts 2 and a half hours out, it's the making of 3.5 or more up to an hour that counts, at least for me. Here's a list of the ones that hung in there. Some are surprising.


Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green)
AW 18650 2600mAh (Black)
Samsung ICR18650-28A 2800mAh (Purple) 4.3V
* Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mAh (Green) 7 bucks.


LG 18650 C2 2800mAh (Orange)

LG 18650 C2 2800mAh (Orange) 4.3V

LG 18650 D1 3000mAh (Pink)

LG 18650 D1 3000mAh (Pink) 4.35V

LG 18650 D1 3000mAh (Pink) 4.3V

Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green)

Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mAh (Green)

Sanyo 18650 2600mAh (Red)

Sanyo UR18650ZTA 3000mAh (Magenta) 4.35V

All these batts make it to 1 hour at 5-amps 3.5v



I'm surprised I don't hear about LG brands more often in here.
They seem to be a major player.
Another thing I read if your a doomsdayer like me.
18650 Lithium Ion is most frequently used in laptop
power packs. I work in IT and hardware is a big chunk of my workload.
Though not protected, in a pinch did you guys know it's generally only one lonely cell that ruins the whole pack. Sure enough more then 50 percent of these cells light up my vape and I haven't charged them yet!!.

The stats are hard to get, there unmarked most the time and when they are it just says 3.7 Li cell on them in English if your lucky. All you have to do is go to a recycling bin, place or local college and ask for expended laptop packs, they gladly will give them to you because they cost money to get rid of. There are 4 to nine cells in each pack and all seem to be over 2200 mah, some are marked LG2200mah in the dell computers.

At least half of them will be good. I don't think they are protected, but a ProVape type MOD has built in cutoff Nannys on the job
And a 2 penny fuse would surfice on a Mech.


Expect to deal with "flat top" types.
I'm charging a couple of them up now, I will let you all know soon.


Now lets go dumpster diving.

 

[cowboy6591]

You'd be amazed in the development in LiPo batteries. People pull 12KW+++ to power one of these babies. They run at 16cells (67v at full charge).

Good to see safer chemistries catching up!

Hey WattWick; Your talkin like my soulmate there, I have a Raptor 500 Titan Nitro and a Align E-600 electric and the electric SMOKES the 2 horse Nitro; Align E-600 has 6 5500 Mah LiPo [Lithium Poly Hydride] cells at 35C
24 volts x 35a = 840 watts for 5 minutes. [746 watts to one horsepower] and yet the one you linked to
makes my Align E-600 look like a mamby pambie, LoL.
Yes they are wicked dangerous, I have seen some real sad stuff on the field, generally a more-on at the controlls when it happens
and poor maintanance and safety checks. I fly my Align 450 most the time because it's a little less of a weapon and more of a joy toy
and it has a camera on it. That thing still can put the hurt on ya. [None of them are toys].

 

[cowboy6591]

That is why I have always stopped myself from doing a Heli or Plane, atleast if it's on the ground and something goes wrong there is a chance it will survive, not so much when a big drop can be involved

Building Real ultralight pieces of airoplanes you get in and fly is my most dangerous sport. And also the reason for my last divorce, three crashes later I gave them up, but oh the fine memories and scars.

 

[cowboy6591]

didnt help me when i accidentally went full throttle and the vehicle went top speed (65mph) into a concrete pillar. $320 damage...
air, hydro, or ground... an oops! will cost big money regardless.


I guess this can relate to e-cigs too. play with the wrong batteries and boom catastrophic failure....
research and common sense is always a required, but not always present.

Why do they call it common sense when it's so uncommon?

 

[dwcraig1]

My sentiments exactly;
When I went here: Battery test-review 18650 comparator



I set my amp at 5, then left a sticky peace of tape [on my monitor] on the 3.5 volt graph at 1 hour.

Then flipped through the brand names and models for a 18650 batt that will hold 3.5 volts an hour down the road, granted this is not “Pulse” drains but at least a goal to focus on.



I am surprised how many batteries didn't make the grade but soared all the way to 3 hours down to 2.5 volts, YUK!! I don't care about 2.8 volts 2 and a half hours out, it's the making of 3.5 or more up to an hour that counts, at least for me. Here's a list of the ones that hung in there. Some are surprising.


Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green)
AW 18650 2600mAh (Black)
Samsung ICR18650-28A 2800mAh (Purple) 4.3V
* Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mAh (Green) 7 bucks.


LG 18650 C2 2800mAh (Orange)

LG 18650 C2 2800mAh (Orange) 4.3V

LG 18650 D1 3000mAh (Pink)

LG 18650 D1 3000mAh (Pink) 4.35V

LG 18650 D1 3000mAh (Pink) 4.3V

Panasonic NCR18650B 3400mAh (Green)

Samsung INR18650-20R 2000mAh (Green)

Sanyo 18650 2600mAh (Red)

Sanyo UR18650ZTA 3000mAh (Magenta) 4.35V

All these batts make it to 1 hour at 5-amps 3.5v



I'm surprised I don't hear about LG brands more often in here.
They seem to be a major player.
Another thing I read if your a doomsdayer like me.
18650 Lithium Ion is most frequently used in laptop
power packs. I work in IT and hardware is a big chunk of my workload.
Though not protected, in a pinch did you guys know it's generally only one lonely cell that ruins the whole pack. Sure enough more then 50 percent of these cells light up my vape and I haven't charged them yet!!.

The stats are hard to get, there unmarked most the time and when they are it just says 3.7 Li cell on them in English if your lucky. All you have to do is go to a recycling bin, place or local college and ask for expended laptop packs, they gladly will give them to you because they cost money to get rid of. There are 4 to nine cells in each pack and all seem to be over 2200 mah, some are marked LG2200mah in the dell computers.

At least half of them will be good. I don't think they are protected, but a ProVape type MOD has built in cutoff Nannys on the job
And a 2 penny fuse would surfice on a Mech.


Expect to deal with "flat top" types.
I'm charging a couple of them up now, I will let you all know soon.


Now lets go dumpster diving.

I really don't think it's a very good idea to even suggest that folks use fire breathing lithium cobalt batteries in a mod of any type but especially a mechanical whether new or used.

 

[xEtherized]

Hey guys so I've ordered 2 batteries. The MNKE 18650 3.7V 1300mAh, and the AW IMR 18650 3.7 2000mAh. I'm not worried about the MNKE cause it's rated at 20 AMPS but the AW IMR is rated only at 10 amps. Now I did the calculations and since I'm most likely going to be running a 0.8Ω build and it says it'll be pulling 11.56Amps or current. Should I be concerned? Because that would be pushing my battery, right?

 

[dwcraig1]

I come up with 5.25 amp, 4.2 volts @ 0.8 ohms
http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp
not to worry

 

[pdib]

My calculations show that you'll be drawing 7-8 amps. My MNKEs last as long as my AW2000 does.

EDIT: OOPS, yeah, 5.25

 

[jasl90]

Actually there is literally 0.00% chance that you'll be vaping at 4.2 volts. There will always be a voltage drop. If you have a really good mech with really good conductivity and a really good battery, you may get as much as 3.8 under load.

 

[WattWick]

Hey WattWick; Your talkin like my soulmate there, I have a Raptor 500 Titan Nitro and a Align E-600 electric and the electric SMOKES the 2 horse Nitro; Align E-600 has 6 5500 Mah LiPo [Lithium Poly Hydride] cells at 35C
24 volts x 35a = 840 watts for 5 minutes. [746 watts to one horsepower] and yet the one you linked to
makes my Align E-600 look like a mamby pambie, LoL.
Yes they are wicked dangerous, I have seen some real sad stuff on the field, generally a more-on at the controlls when it happens
and poor maintanance and safety checks. I fly my Align 450 most the time because it's a little less of a weapon and more of a joy toy
and it has a camera on it. That thing still can put the hurt on ya. [None of them are toys].

Haha you're deeper in it than me, man! Don't think I'll ever fly anything bigger than a 500/550 (that's what they all say..). Just too expensive. ... but then again, the packs for my 500 would nicely double up to power a 600...

Last 450 accident I heard of took 28 stitches from mouth to top of the head. OUCH! Wouldn't want it to hit a few inches lower.

 

[BuzzKilla]

I come up with 5.25 amp, 4.2 volts @ 0.8 ohms
http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslawcalculators.asp
not to worry

While the math is right your voltage is wrong...
Like Jasl90 said the odds of you vaping 0.8ohms @4.2v is very improbable.

Measure your voltage while you are firing the 0.8ohm coil and the numbers with surprise you...

Best I've been able to get is 3.9~4.0v under load. But 3.4~3.8v is more common.

My hottest vape is 8.8 amps @ 35watts... This setup ruined cartos for me...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[dwcraig1]

While the math is right your voltage is wrong...
Like Jasl90 said the odds of you vaping 0.8ohms @4.2v is very improbable.

Measure your voltage while you are firing the 0.8ohm coil and the numbers with surprise you...

Best I've been able to get is 3.9~4.0v under load. But 3.4~3.8v is more common.

My hottest vape is 8.8 amps @ 35watts... This setup ruined cartos for me...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

That's kind of a given, I used that number to show the highest wattage possible just as an example, you're of coarse totally correct on how to measure the actual wattage

 

[dwcraig1]

Since I'm here in this thread, I bought 4 of the Sony 30 amp batteries mentioned earlier in this thread, they have very few cycles on them and I have no numbers but so far so good. The numbers that I can say are FastTech delivered in 7 days. That was my first purchase from them and what was stopping me from using them before was I didn't realize they accepted Paypal, I recently had some CC fraud and there was no way I was going to use a credit card in China.

 

[pdib]

Yeah, with battery safety, I always round it out and ignore voltage-drop and such. My aim is to be safe with a healthy margin. I guess if it were hard to find a battery that gave me that margin, I'd be sharpening my pencil a bit more.

 

[unloaded]

Any options for smaller batts besides AW IMRs? I use mainly 18350 and 18490 mods.

 

[pdib]

I think it was the AW 18500 (490?) that surprised me with its C rating. (being good)

http://www.nitemods.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_24_25&products_id=51

Yeah, it's well over 8 amps.

 

[Jeremy Evans]

Out of curiosity any one seen this?

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1fbrob/

 

[ph0kused]

MNKE and AW 1600mAh (NOT 2000mAh). These are the best because they have low internal resistance (because there is less packed into them). They boast 20amp and 24amp max. continuous discharge ratings and last plenty long (full day at work). They are both IMR.

read the reviews here . . ..

MNKE IMR18650 3.7v Li-MN Rechargable Battery - Avid Vaper

and see the comments here

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...=jRsg_F5sC6QY0ItQKGE2Eg&bvm=bv.47883778,d.cGE

compare to others here (check only the 7amp box) . . .

Battery test-review 18650 comparator

Being IMR and being high-drain batts., they are very safe* as they don't even break a sweat on a .4Ω build. IMR is safer than protected.




*safe; conditional to user error/knowledge of application

PDIB!

This thread as so many replies... I really appreciate all the info you've given us! Can you just tell me what your top 3 batteries are for sub-ohm building? I really would like to see what you've used and recommended. I'm currently using Panasonic CGR18650CH - the grey ones... they're super cheap, have been vaping on themhard for 4 months - Their longevity seems to be going down the drain. I constantly vape at .4 - .6ohms - never any higher - it's my preferred zone! That resistance is perfect for my airflow (2.5mm holes)

So the original question... pdib and all other experienced sub 1.0ohm vapers... what are your top 3 batteries? I prefer 18650 for the mods I own.

 

[dr g]

FT just got the samsung INR 20Rs which are supposed to the The Battery for super high drain.

 

[Rapture]

could someone please tell me my amp limit for this battery. And if its protected. I would like to know if its ok to use in a mech mod with around 1 or 1.5 ohms

green smoktech ICR 18500 1600mah (came with my bolt)

I find it ridiculous that i cant find any info out about his batteries amp limit on the websites of the vendors that sell this. come on people