New DNA30 by Brimstone

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blueGrassTubb

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I just accidentally picked up brand new DNA30 MOD by Brimstone. "Accidentally?" you ask? Yes. Accidentally. I saw that there was a brand new one of these going on eBay with a top bid of $175. So I put in a bid for $200 thinking I'd never get it and forgot all about it. Lo and Behold, I receive a notice stating "You've Won!" with a bid of $180. I never thought in a million years that I'd be able to get a DNA30 for less than $200. I was sure that I'd be outbid. I was wrong.

So another regulated mod will go in the stable, which is a good thing as I vastly prefer regulated MODs most of the time and am looking to get a few more.

And this is my first DNA30 mod. I'm psyched!

My regulated MOD collection:

Brimstone DNA30
sigelei 20W
EPM VW-18490 v2

I also have 2 Zana Modz (Hana clones) on the way (one black, one orange), and I have 2 SX350 chips that I'm in the beginning process of putting in boxes.

Awesome!
 

blueGrassTubb

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Those look sweet.
Is the battery easily replacable or hard wired?

I get the feeling that the battery is hardwired (I've never heard of a company providing removable batteries with their MODs), though he does make a note of letting people know that "batteries are places in battery holders" which leads me to believe that they may well be removeable. Either way, if it's in a battery holder, it can come out one way or another.

Even if it is hardwired, I'm likely to pull that Panny out anyways as, from what I've read, the mah rating is high, but the C rating low, providing a scant 6A of current. That's pretty low, particularly for a 30W MOD. You can't even max out the chip. With a .5Ω atty, you wouldn't be able to vape higher than 18W, and being that .5Ω@18W is only pushing 3V, you can't even do that.

This MOD is made for people who want max battery life, and vape atties in the 1Ω+ range.

That's not a huge problem for me as most of my vaping is in the 1.2Ω-1.7Ω range with Kayfuns, but I prefer the extra overhead because it's safer not riding the edge of the battery's capabilities, and by not riding the edge of the battery's capabilities it will have a much longer service life.

I'm SURE to replace that battery and lose the mah in exchange for some real amperage (likely Efest Purple 18650 3100mah 20A batteries). The battery life is slightly diminished, but the C rating gives me enough headroom for safety. The chip will cut off long before the battery.
 
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blueGrassTubb

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I emailed Brimstone and asked how the batteries were put in and he confirmed they are hard wired in. He also confirmed what I had thought which is that it was he who sold the MOD on eBay and that he'd be happy to pull out the Panny in exchange for an Efest 2500mah 35A battery for a small upgrade fee. It also makes me think that even if the battery is hard wired, it is removable with some handy soldering work.

Perfect. Great customer service.
 

MrPlink

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good deal then.

I have some VTCs and a Purple35a, but I have a couple purple 20a 3100 bats on order specifically for my Hana (Cana? Chana Bana Bonanana?) er... Cloupor 30w. A little extra mah cant hurt.

I was browsing Brimstones site, I like the form factor of the DNA mods, but their SX350 looks pretty wonky to me.
 

dr g

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I get the feeling that the battery is hardwired (I've never heard of a company providing removable batteries with their MODs), though he does make a note of letting people know that "batteries are places in battery holders" which leads me to believe that they may well be removeable. Either way, if it's in a battery holder, it can come out one way or another.

Even if it is hardwired, I'm likely to pull that Panny out anyways as, from what I've read, the mah rating is high, but the C rating low, providing a scant 6A of current. That's pretty low, particularly for a 30W MOD. You can't even max out the chip. With a .5Ω atty, you wouldn't be able to vape higher than 18W, and being that .5Ω@18W is only pushing 3V, you can't even do that.

This MOD is made for people who want max battery life, and vape atties in the 1Ω+ range.

That's not a huge problem for me as most of my vaping is in the 1.2Ω-1.7Ω range with Kayfuns, but I prefer the extra overhead because it's safer not riding the edge of the battery's capabilities, and by not riding the edge of the battery's capabilities it will have a much longer service life.

I'm SURE to replace that battery and lose the mah in exchange for some real amperage (likely Efest Purple 18650 3100mah 20A batteries). The battery life is slightly diminished, but the C rating gives me enough headroom for safety. The chip will cut off long before the battery.

Resistance has nothing to do with power output. The Panasonic NCR18650B is inappropriate for a DNA30 mod period.
 

alee132

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Seen those faceplates on Shapeways.

Yep I actually just saw those mods posted on the sx350 modder's group a day or 2 ago and those shapeways bezel's, I bought one exactly the same except white is about to go onto my sx350 homemade mod. They faceplates are made by bapgood and are great. He also has lids that replace the whole lid for iirc the hammond 1590a, g and b. My next mod I think I will get one full lid for a 1590g. Anyways, if anyone wants a look:

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/bapgood?section=SX350+Products&s=0
 

blueGrassTubb

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Resistance has nothing to do with power output. The Panasonic NCR18650B is inappropriate for a DNA30 mod period.

I never suggested it did.

And the battery is PERFECTLY safe so long as you are vaping atties that are higher than ~1Ω. You simply have to know exactly what you're putting on the MOD and know exactly what that atty will demand of your battery.

There are too many factors to make me feel good about using one in a DNA30 box. It's why I had mine switched out. But if you stay within the confines of the battery's amp limit there is nothing dangerous at all about using it.

Where Brimstone makes his mistake is in offering these MODs for sale to the public with that battery in it without ample warning that the battery in the box in wholly inappropriate for anything sub Ω.

Were I him, I'd NOT use those batteries in any MODs that I planned to sell, and use something that'd be safe for the entire spectrum of the DNA's capabilities.

MAH be damned. I want current overhead in spades.

And he should probably opt similarly if he plans on selling them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

dr g

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I never suggested it did.

And the battery is PERFECTLY safe so long as you are vaping atties that are higher than ~1Ω. You simply have to know exactly what you're putting on the MOD and know exactly what that atty will demand of your battery.

The board's power setting and the battery's charge state determines what the demand from the battery is, the atomizer resistance has nothing to do with it.
 

edyle

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I get the feeling that the battery is hardwired (I've never heard of a company providing removable batteries with their MODs), though he does make a note of letting people know that "batteries are places in battery holders" which leads me to believe that they may well be removeable. Either way, if it's in a battery holder, it can come out one way or another.

Even if it is hardwired, I'm likely to pull that Panny out anyways as, from what I've read, the mah rating is high, but the C rating low, providing a scant 6A of current. That's pretty low, particularly for a 30W MOD. You can't even max out the chip. With a .5Ω atty, you wouldn't be able to vape higher than 18W, and being that .5Ω@18W is only pushing 3V, you can't even do that.

This MOD is made for people who want max battery life, and vape atties in the 1Ω+ range.

That's not a huge problem for me as most of my vaping is in the 1.2Ω-1.7Ω range with Kayfuns, but I prefer the extra overhead because it's safer not riding the edge of the battery's capabilities, and by not riding the edge of the battery's capabilities it will have a much longer service life.

I'm SURE to replace that battery and lose the mah in exchange for some real amperage (likely Efest Purple 18650 3100mah 20A batteries). The battery life is slightly diminished, but the C rating gives me enough headroom for safety. The chip will cut off long before the battery.

You got you head locked in a mech.

Of course you can max out the chip. 5 volts at 6 amps on a 1 ohm coil will max out the 30 watts.
You are correct, you can't get the 30 watts with a 0.5 ohm coil, but being able to get 30 watts without subohming is the whole point of the dna30.

===edit===
oh wait: if the 6amp limit is the battery itself, then that's only 4x6 = 24 watts; that battery would be too small for a 30 watt device.
 
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blueGrassTubb

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dont care for the look (subjective) but I can imagine nothing sitting flush with that 510 connection. why didn't they put a battery sled in there instead. seems weird. would probably be better suited with a LiPo battery

There is no battery sled.

I agree that a LiPo battery would likely be better, but he was looking to maximize MAH, and the maximum MAH one can get for a reasonable price that will also fit in the very small box is 2400 (two 1200mah LiPos in parallel). I'm thinking he wanted to simplify things by having a battery that would be reasonably easy to change.

When I build my SX350 boxes, they are all going to use parallel LiPos at 2400mah (50C!!) connected via JST plugs which will make them very easy to change, even by the end user.
 

dr g

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There is no battery sled.

I agree that a LiPo battery would likely be better, but he was looking to maximize MAH, and the maximum MAH one can get for a reasonable price that will also fit in the very small box is 2400 (two 1200mah LiPos in parallel). I'm thinking he wanted to simplify things by having a battery that would be reasonably easy to change.

When I build my SX350 boxes, they are all going to use parallel LiPos at 2400mah (50C!!) connected via JST plugs which will make them very easy to change, even by the end user.

LiPos aren't great choices for commercial ecigs. All those "exploding egos" are because of the LiPo battery and the LiPo is just more of a risk due to the volatility of the chemistry.

You might be surprised at the capacities in the relative volumetric size of an 18650 vs lipos, there has been a lot of advancement in that specific size.

Oh and the JST connector is inappropriate for a SX350 or DNA30 mod.
 

blueGrassTubb

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LiPos aren't great choices for commercial ecigs. All those "exploding egos" are because of the LiPo battery and the LiPo is just more of a risk due to the volatility of the chemistry.

You might be surprised at the capacities in the relative volumetric size of an 18650 vs lipos, there has been a lot of advancement in that specific size.

Oh and the JST connector is inappropriate for a SX350 or DNA30 mod.

LiPos are perfectly safe for ecig use.

Dozens and dozens of box MODs use them (See Vaporshark DNA30 and Hana Modz mini v3 for some commercial examples). The "exploding egos" use LiPos that are inappropriate because they don't have high enough C ratings (they don't have an appropriate amperage rating). The LiPos I'm using will has a far higher Amperage rating than any 18650 (or 26650) available (50C in parallel). It's all about C ratings. (2400mah = 2.4 amp hours x 50C = 120A Continuous). Either way, modern LiPos are Lithium Ion batteries.

LiPos are not the problem, using LiPos with a low C rating is.

And JST connectors are also fine for for a SX350 MOD.

The batteries I'm using are designed for applications that use far more power than ecigs.

I've checked and triple checked for safety. That has been my number 1 consideration in every single part I'm using. I've done my homework here and other places. Everything from the battery to the connectors to the specific wire gauge to the switch to the epoxy has been verified as being perfectly fine for ecig use.
 
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dr g

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LiPos are perfectly safe for ecig use.

Dozens and dozens of box MODs use them (See Vaporshark DNA30 and Hana Modz mini v3 for some commercial examples). The "exploding egos" use LiPos that are inappropriate because they don't have high enough C ratings (they don't have an appropriate amperage rating). The LiPos I'm using will has a far higher Amperage rating than any 18650 (or 26650) available (50C in parallel). It's all about C ratings. (2400mah = 2.4 amp hours x 50C = 120A Continuous). Either way, modern LiPos are Lithium Ion batteries.

LiPos are not the problem, using LiPos with a low C rating is.

And JST connectors are also fine for for a SX350 MOD.

Might want to quadruple check. Far and away the most common causes of ecig battery failures are not functional overdraws. Also that link is inaccurate with regard to LiMN and hybrid cells.

You also might want to check the specific rating and design of the JST connector you are considering.
 
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blueGrassTubb

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You also might want to check the specific rating and design of the JST connector you are considering.

I rechecked the JST ratings I'm using, and you're right about them not being appropriate for this MOD.

They are rated at 6-10A, which is below the threshold for the SX350. I'll likely simply clip them off and solder the wires together, but I may look at other connectors in order to make battery changes easy.

Thanks for the heads up.

It shows that even with good preparation, there's always something that slips through the cracks.
 

blueGrassTubb

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I received my Brimstone today, but I have to return it.

During shipping the + wattage button somehow got stuck in the "pushed" position (he tested it thoroughly after he made the battery change and said it worked flawlessly when he put it in the box - you can tell it happened during shipping because the battery was completely dead upon receipt. It's still on now and I haven't touched a button on it in a couple of hours). If I try really hard, I can lower the wattage from 30W, but as soon as I let go of the button, the wattage climbs right back to 30W as if a ghost were pressing the button.

I spoke with Brandon and he's sending me a return label so I can send it back free of charge. If the fix isn't simple (such as repositioning the chip), he'll throw another chip in the box.

He's been great at CS.

Aside from the issue with the wattage button being stuck in the "pushed" position, the MOD looks very slick. Much better than pics do for it. The laser engraving of his logo is very well done, and the fit and finish of the device looks very good. I can't vape from it right now, but I'm sure it'll vape every bit as well as any other DNA30 MOD.

Here's to getting it back in good order.
 

blueGrassTubb

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I received the MOD back from Brimstone today.

There was a bad DNA30 board in it. By the time he received it back, it wouldn't turn on no matter the circumstance. He replaced the board and confirmed that it was working via a short youtube video showing it functioning as it should just before he put it in the box for shipping. This is GREAT service. Emails have always been answered within a couple of hours.

I shipped it out last Tuesday, and received back it today (6 day turnaround which would have been faster were it not for Sunday being in the way). He paid for the return postage, and upgraded the 510 connector to the new Fat Daddy Vapes spring loaded connector with a drip cup, along with the wire connectors for the battery (were JST, now they're 15A Power Poles - very handy for making battery changes later on).

It looks great and functions exactly as it should.

He told me that the 35A Efest batteries and 15A Power Pole connectors are going in all his MODs, and the new 510 connectors will be as well.

Were I in the market for a good looking regulated MOD with high quality parts from a company with stellar CS, I'd absolutely look at Brimstone again.
 
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