NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video

[v1John]

your disc you mention can be a pressed peace of filler, then the wick can go though holes in the disk and the plate below the disc. your picture is basicly exactly what it should look like but its hard for me to build without the proper tools, i can try with a 306 atty but its diameter is to small for the syring mod.

the main issue would be the holes for the wick at the disc plate, they have to proper hole sizes and the wick has to fit just right inside it, to loose or to tight might cause a issue


if you can remove the e2 tube off the carto, then cut the stem real low so you can sit the cup on it to try this design

It should work with the XL too, and the syringe plunger can seal the dry part, although it doesn't have to be that tight of a seal, just leave plenty of wick on your disk. Remember, the drier side of the wick disk is currently full of liquid, so the baffle doesn't have to be that perfect.

Any word on your pyrex mods yet?

 

[BanjoMan]

You dont think they give a rats ... what you or anyone else thinks or says about these things do you??...Martinez would yank the hair from his mothers back to use it for wick if it would save him a penny. It didnt take me a month to figure that out. Our only hope is for a USA E1..no R's!! Until then just get some..tear them apart and rebuild it the correct way. These things are like Cracker Jacks...you never know whats inside of every box.

I think they were keeping their powder dry for their new big seller: The RN4081 E2 cartomizer!

 

[Turbo]

If I did one, the wires would run away from the cup. The two little holes in the filler ring would finally have a practical use.

Would the wires running through the filler ring melt the ring itself?

 

[nicotime]

I think they were keeping their powder dry for their new big seller: The RN4081 E2 cartomizer!

Maybe...I think we need a UV light and lead test kit to check these things to see what were vaping....anyone work at a lab?

 

[slopes]

Turbo. I'm not sure the wires themselves actually heat up - unless you're messing around with the voltage.

 

[Turbo]

Turbo. I'm not sure the wires themselves actually heat up - unless you're messing around with the voltage.

Ok, how's your self juicing mod holding up?

 

[slopes]

Ok, how's your self juicing mod holding up?

The squeezey mod is holding up very well - it gives a great continuous vape. But I'm a bit worried about vaping on a bit of old rubber tubing from a chisel handle though (even though the heat from the cup doesn't seem to be a problem at all)... so I'm on the lookout for some food-grade silicone or plastic tubing to use. I'm gonna try it without any filler inside (except for the standard E2 wicking) so I can fill it up completely with juice - perhaps with some sort of mesh skirting around the cup to stop it flowing out.

 

[br5495]

Would the wires running through the filler ring melt the ring itself?

don't pay any attention to bad and his hot wires, heheh. Even if his do, they would not run hot in mine. That is, if I were to actually make one.

 

[badkolo]

since most of the e2's are exposed for br mod, leave off the bottle
touch the wires with your fingers and fire up the e2, after 7 seconds they get hot, after 10 they burn your finger.


if the atomizer is on the bottom then there is no need for the wires anywhere in the design, just like the ego and new joye atty, wires are below the coil in this newer design.

 

[br5495]

The squeezey mod is holding up very well - it gives a great continuous vape. But I'm a bit worried about vaping on a bit of old rubber tubing from a chisel handle though (even though the heat from the cup doesn't seem to be a problem at all)... so I'm on the lookout for some food-grade silicone or plastic tubing to use. I'm gonna try it without any filler inside (except for the standard E2 wicking) so I can fill it up completely with juice - perhaps with some sort of mesh skirting around the cup to stop it flowing out.

Just use a narrow strip of filler around the cup. That's all I used with one of my mods and it did not leak. No filler ring. Just whatever you want to use for a mouthpiece.

 

[v1John]

vapes are only about 6 seconds or less though, unless something is wrong with the mod


the electrical wires feeding the coild should not get hot because they have no resistance, so I would guess that when they get hot (along with the hot cup) it's because the heat at the coil is so great that it's getting conducted away.

but when you measured the 7second mark and the 10second mark, were you vaping a stream of cold air through the coil at that exact time?

beacause you can have a hotter vape by simply pressing the button and turning the coil on 2 seconds before you sip it. I don't do this anymore with the E2, but sometimes it was necessary to press the button ahead of the vape on the filler cartos. Either way, a vape lasting 6 seconds or 3 shouldn't get the wires too hot, maybe they need to be bigger if they do? That reminds me of the gold alloy wire/tabs that I wish the maintainable E2 could have

 

[br5495]

since most of the e2's are exposed for br mod, leave off the bottle
touch the wires with your fingers and fire up the e2, after 7 seconds they get hot, after 10 they burn your finger.


if the atomizer is on the bottom then there is no need for the wires anywhere in the design, just like the ego and new joye atty, wires are below the coil in this newer design.

Touch the cup while you are doing all that burning. It heats the wire more than anything else. But then I don't smoke them with a red hot coil, so what difference does it make?

BUT...... If I make an upside down version, I would use the E2 coil and the wires will not run through the holes in the cup. The holes would be plugged. I would run them through the slots with the wick and directly to the holes in the filler ring. Will that hurt the wick or the wicking capability? No. Why not? Because I have been testing one like that for several days and it works fine. If anything, the the chance of a leak at the slots will be less.

 

[badkolo]

making the bottom part of my design is easy, i can push out the stem by pushing down on the cup then cut the stem off leaving just a 1/4 inch then remove the cup and place it down on the new stem and by leaving a 1/2 inch or so of the e2 tube the cup will sit inside nicely, then we can place the syring mod over it and that creates the bottom portion, i just dont know how to make the part with the plate with 2 holes in and a stem attached to it.

Br, yes the hot ceramic cup could be exactly whats causing the wires to get hot, doesnt mean it isnt a issue.

heating the juice over and over slowly kills its flavor, thats what i have experienced.


for some odd reason, my 2.8 and 2.9 ohm e2's perform way better then my 2.5 ohm e2's in the BR mod

 

[v1John]

Here is a good short video I liked about the nichrome elictral circuit:

 

[Guitrman1]

So how about for this "invert carto™" using one of the mouthpieces and push the wick through by threading it through a needle. This would most difinetaly not create a large enough hole for leaking. Just a thought. I like the idea. Then you would just have to figure out how to get the air draw through the liquid resavoir. Maybe by putting the draw tube through the same mouthpiece housing the wick, just above the atty, and extending to the tip of the actual mouthpiece

 

[br5495]

Br, yes the hot ceramic cup could be exactly whats causing the wires to get hot, doesnt mean it isnt a issue.

It's an issue if you keep heating the cup with a red hot coil. Your coil will not get red hot if it is wet. If the coil is wet, the cup will not be near as hot.

I'm about 1/2 finished with my upside mod right now. How are you doing with yours?

 

[badkolo]

It's an issue if you keep heating the cup with a red hot coil. Your coil will not get red hot if it is wet. If the coil is wet, the cup will not be near as hot.

I'm about 1/2 finished with my upside mod right now. How are you doing with yours?

my bottom is finsihed and gutiarmans idea is what ive been trying for 2 weeks now but i dont have anything laying around to act as the new tube/stem coming form the plug between the juice and atty.

its doable but like v1john, i get frustrated fast, make a mistake and then i have to start all over.

if we are using a see through top part then none of the plugs we have will be big enough, so thats my issue.

 

[v1John]

.. If the coil is wet, the cup will not be near as hot.

I'm about 1/2 finished with my upside mod right now. How are you doing with yours?

mine is still sideways, lol.

I hope you guys are making a video or takings pics of the manufacturing process



_________
Badkolo, if you post pics of the liquid etc., and where you need a stem, etc, it might help us understand how to help

 

[rbonie]

Ok, trying a new thinga-ma-bob:

I took 3 strands of PTB about 4" long and twisted them together to make a tight "rope". Then I laid it inside the cup slots and worked the side pieces in with the existing wick. I capped it off with the filler ring to help hold the PTB up against the coil - using the cut piece of carto body to hold the filler ring in place.

It's vaping great but what I want to see is if the PTB up against the coil will allow me to use it longer before having to do a dry burn to remove the black stuff. I figure as long as the coil stays hot the PTB should act as a secondary wick and hopefully keep the flavor going even after the real wick gunks up.

Banjo; Like the idea but took strand of twisted ptb and laid it in cup and down the sides where the wick is. Can't see it to good in photo but you'l get the idea. Gonna try this as a reg ce4 to test. Will let you know...View attachment 21760

 

[Guitrman1]

my bottom is finsihed and gutiarmans idea is what ive been trying for 2 weeks now but i dont have anything laying around to act as the new tube/stem coming form the plug between the juice and atty.

its doable but like v1john, i get frustrated fast, make a mistake and then i have to start all over.

Since it is above the direct heat I am going to try a small coffee straw. This would not be a permanent solution but will allow me to test. Assuming I can create a tight enough seal around the wicks (while still allowing them to wick) then I know the concept is sound and I have proof of concept. At that point I will probably sacrafice an e4 for its tube to make a polished product.