Hah, I see my post again in your pic. It'd be nice to pin down the elements that make these mods work better then a stock XL. I think we've nailed some down already but w/ no certainty on some.
NEW RoyalSmokers C-E2 R4 Review, Tips, Info, Help, Video
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Well this is a 9/16" tube. It's the easiest size to slap together for me. Doesn't vape any better or worse for me than a smaller tube or a larger tube.
My next project is to try to resolve the blackened area at the edges of the slits you see in the pic. This is a one week old R4 that's had about 30 ml pushed through it. I tried to stay away from oil based liquids, but some may have gotten in there through carelessness. It's still going strong after several dry burns.
My theory is this: When I torch a brand new wick I see black "soot" forming on the wick that goes away once it's red hot. I don't believe it's from the torching itself because if I torch the wick immediately again, there is no formation of black soot. This leads me to believe there is something on the wicks when they come from the factory that gets burned away from torching even if the wicks seem bone dry. It's very difficult to get the black torched out of the area in the slits (which also forms when doing an initial dry burn) without melting the stem cap of the R4 (the black sleeve).
My next test will be torching the entire wick by pulling the wick through the coil on either side just enough to burn off all residue on the wick. I'm thinking that one reason the bottle mods and wider tubes seem to wick better (or perhaps it's more correct to say for a longer period of time) is that the wicks are not compressed against the sides of the tube. The larger tubes and bottles enable the wicks to have a larger arch coming out of the slits. The compression of the wick at the slits in smaller tubes may be compressing the black debris caught in the wick fibers and blocking wicking action. Who knows, but I think it's worth a shot.
My next project is to try to resolve the blackened area at the edges of the slits you see in the pic. This is a one week old R4 that's had about 30 ml pushed through it. I tried to stay away from oil based liquids, but some may have gotten in there through carelessness. It's still going strong after several dry burns.
My theory is this: When I torch a brand new wick I see black "soot" forming on the wick that goes away once it's red hot. I don't believe it's from the torching itself because if I torch the wick immediately again, there is no formation of black soot. This leads me to believe there is something on the wicks when they come from the factory that gets burned away from torching even if the wicks seem bone dry. It's very difficult to get the black torched out of the area in the slits (which also forms when doing an initial dry burn) without melting the stem cap of the R4 (the black sleeve).
My next test will be torching the entire wick by pulling the wick through the coil on either side just enough to burn off all residue on the wick. I'm thinking that one reason the bottle mods and wider tubes seem to wick better (or perhaps it's more correct to say for a longer period of time) is that the wicks are not compressed against the sides of the tube. The larger tubes and bottles enable the wicks to have a larger arch coming out of the slits. The compression of the wick at the slits in smaller tubes may be compressing the black debris caught in the wick fibers and blocking wicking action. Who knows, but I think it's worth a shot.
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What did you use for this tube; ie. stock, tubing, etc. I see it's 9/16th. Also, what's the red grommet on the top? I know you've been trying out different materials. Did you do anything on the base? Looks like you left the sticker on?
Probably so, the pinched wick syndrome. That's probably why these seem to wick better/longer and why modding the filler ring helps.
Probably so, the pinched wick syndrome. That's probably why these seem to wick better/longer and why modding the filler ring helps.
I think the problem is less about the pinched wick and more about pinching a wick with particulates stuck in it. BR suggested tying extra wicks to the ends of the existing wick. A tight knot didn't impede wicking, so it must be more to the problem then just a pinched or compressed wick though what do I know....
The red silicone grommets are from Grainger.com. That's black electrical tape above the grommets. I've given this to a few people and have found that it's tricky for them to figure out how far to push the top assembly down onto the cup. Too much and not enough vapor, not enough and it leaks. This way they just line up the bottom of the tape with the top of the tube and it's in the right place. There's also a strip of electrical tape wrapped around the carto stem and then pushed into a piece of vinyl tubing and then wedged into the tube. It's just a solution until I get some silicone tape or find the right sized adapter- I'm sure electrical tape is not a great idea, but it works until I find something better. I like this sized tube as it's pretty close to the diameter of an eGo.
I have noticed that if I don't do a dry burn after each filling the juice starts to turn dark. I'm thinking that the build up of .... is saturating at the slit and running back into the bottle. Has anyone noticed this?
Good point, yes, there may be something to that. I'll check out their website. I'm assuming you're not getting any off taste like from the other grommets? It looks like you used the extra tubing cut off w/ a drip tip on top? Oh, I see, it's a vinyl tube withing a tube. Is the outer tube 9/16 or the inner? Just curious on the evolution on these
Am I doing something wrong? of the 3 e-2 cartos that I have used since August 1st...all 3 still work properly...
I can't believe you guys are still at this...LOL
I can't believe you guys are still at this...LOL
We're just tinkering. Are you still on r2? Or do you have r3 or r4?
That never occurred to me, but I think you're right. It would explain that mysterious darkening of the liquid!
i have many that just work properly, its getting everyones to work that way is the issue.
I used to fill several syringe mods and grab them as I needed them but I stopped doing that because of the dark juice. Since I discovered all of this, I now do a rinse with water and a dry burn after each tank full. No more dark juice, problem solved.
Good point, yes, there may be something to that. I'll check out their website. I'm assuming you're not getting any off taste like from the other grommets? It looks like you used the extra tubing cut off w/ a drip tip on top? Oh, I see, it's a vinyl tube withing a tube. Is the outer tube 9/16 or the inner? Just curious on the evolution on these
No bad taste. yet...
It's Lee's Rigid tubing, 9/16" OD from arcatapet.com
The double grommets hold the cut off carto tube in place. One is not enough to make it stable. If a mod can't survive a drop on the floor, it's no good for me. You could do double grommets on the bottom also, but it's really hard to put back together if you want to take it apart.
Be happy!
We all have different needs....and probably some sort of obsessive compulsive disorder...
What k ind of juice are you vaping and also, sometimes there's just been luck of the draw. I have pulled three E2's out of a package and all I did was dryburn them and they were OK but after the next few were FOUL I am not riskign it anymore...
Problems start when you have to pull all three rings out and rinse and dryburn them...you then get a problem putting the filler ring back in then you can get leakinging into the cup and down the air intake.
Another problem with ill fitted filler ring or even leaving it off is when you go to fill, you don't know how much you have left in the E2 so you guess and start to fill and its very dark to see where the fulid level is, you can easily spill over the slits in the cup or fill too much so that when you tip/tilt your PV juice once again gets in the cup.
I am convinced with these you have to find a way to keep the filler ring on for no-leaking and to take the guesswork out of fillign them....
Problems start when you have to pull all three rings out and rinse and dryburn them...you then get a problem putting the filler ring back in then you can get leakinging into the cup and down the air intake.
Another problem with ill fitted filler ring or even leaving it off is when you go to fill, you don't know how much you have left in the E2 so you guess and start to fill and its very dark to see where the fulid level is, you can easily spill over the slits in the cup or fill too much so that when you tip/tilt your PV juice once again gets in the cup.
I am convinced with these you have to find a way to keep the filler ring on for no-leaking and to take the guesswork out of fillign them....
I pull all interior rings and don't replace them...and I use FSUSA liquid.
are you using XL's or the shorter ones? Without that filler ring in place are you just very conservative as to how much juice you put in them?
filling to the top of the cup without a filler ring and then no middle ring will deinitely leaky-leaky...I must have misunderstood you when you said you removed every ring...
nope I removed all the rings...just keep my little sister in a shot glass, and never lay it on it's side.
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