Two. The perfect squonk and a back up. Good luck on the quest to find the perfect squonk for YOU.
New squonkers
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I have. I doesn't exist. A 2x(2x700) topside. I want 7000maH at 70A.
Oh, and powered by Arctic Fox.
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Yeah, it's ok as long as you watch your ohms. I used to be dual coil only but since getting some of my single squonks lately i've got really into my 0.5/0.6 ohm single coils. It's kind of a more relaxing vape
I typically run a .3 ohm set of fused Clapton’s in my mechs but I’ll go .5/.6 ohm on a regulated mod...I like a warmer vape
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I tend to build no lower than 0.3 these days but as I said the single 0.5's are fast becoming my go to
A squonkee can squonk as many squonkers as a squonkee can squonk, if a sqounkee could squonk squonkers (which they obviously can ... and apologies to woodchucks everywhere).
I tend to build no lower than 0.3 these days but as I said the single 0.5's are fast becoming my go to
I had a .12 setup in my DS, very warm.
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Me, on any given day, three.
However, I have enough spares to last me the rest of my life. None of them are new. I'm just fine with my old-school stuff. I watch threads like this to see what's new, but I have yet to come across anything I'd rather have than what I already do have.
Resistance on a regulated mod is not important.
My current regulated squonks have:
0.1Ω on the Drone @ 110W (N80)
0.2Ω - 0.3Ω on my single cell DNAs under TC @ 450F/55W (Ti, SS430 or Nife48)
0.5Ω on the Delta @ 65W
Mechs have:
0.12Ω on both the Furyan and Pulse BF (SS316L)
Wow! I want a spade in the worst way. I’m not sure about the joystick - I had one mod with a joystick and it was too easy to push.
I’m using Recurves and Bunkers, at .25- .30 ohms. I have a couple wasp nano but I’m not really impressed with them.
I thought the Wasp Nano was the bee’s knees when I first got it, then after I drank a few bottles of eliquid I decided it wasn’t that great. I still have two but use them with longer 510 dt’s and only when I’m testing flavors.
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In the end I can relate on the Wasp Nano falling short on expectations. I used one for a time on an original Eleaf Squeeze that I used for short wee hours of the night errands. With the low ohm 4mm RxW build I ran in it I added a DT extension to it to deal with the spit back.
Old picture...
Ok. I'm get resistance isn't so much as important on a regulated, as to the end wattage as on a mech, as wattage setting is responsible for battery drain and stress.
I have a couple of assumptions that I could use clarification on.
1: if I run wattage higher than what would obtain on a mech at a given resistance, the mod will use a buck/boost circuit to achieve, which causes the mod to heat up more.
2: resistance, while not directly related to useable wattage range, can be a guide.
Sorry if I'm a bit confused. Trying to optimize my squonk experience. I should start a new thread, or just do more research.
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Mine is a mech. I never had a mod with a Yihi chip (or any other mod that uses a joystick). But Vicious Ant puts out some very nice mods, and the spade is tied for my favorite (along with my Signature SQ).
I am not sure I understand what you are asking in question #1. A regulated mod would use it's buck/boot circuit all the time to put power to the coil, depending on the wattage you select there could be some heat generated by that circuit.
For question #2 if you only use one type of wire for all your builds then a coil resistance = wattage level could be used as a guide. I have a 0.25Ω 24ga Ti coil in one of my B2Ks that runs very nicely at 50W, if I put a 0.25Ω framed staple clapton in there, then that same 50W would barely bring it to life. I build coils for use on a regulated mod to suit an attys chamber size and airflow, adjusting the power level to bring out the best flavor notes of the juice used. Resistance doesn't even factor into the build unless it's at the extreme ends of the scale where you are going to hit the mods voltage or current limits.
Mechanical mods are a whole different can of worms, you have to keep the batteries current limits in mind and build around that.
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Hmmm... My concern is about unnecessarilily taxing my hardware to achieve the vape I want. I built a 316L coil at 0.18 which ran beautifully at 80w, but if I took more than a few pulls on it, the whole thing would heat up, battery and all. It had me a little worried I was pushing things a little too hard. My thinking is that the closer the set wattage on a mod is to the wattage generated by a coil on bypass, the less taxing on the chip. If I eliminate that factor, I can determine if my build pushes the battery too hard, or if that's just too much heat at the atty being transferred through the mod.
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I’d be alarmed if my mod got warm enough to mention. I tried using Steam Engine to see what that said, but it’s not working for me this morning.
I’m from team *better safe than sorry* so I don’t push my limits and back off if anything seems wrong
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