I am now officially afraid to make (even/just) soup.
Am I going to have to eat that absolutely disgusting "Viscious-what(EVER!)" stuff from here on in?
Carry on.![]()
I am now officially afraid to make (even/just) soup.
Am I going to have to eat that absolutely disgusting "Viscious-what(EVER!)" stuff from here on in?
Carry on.![]()
I am now officially afraid to make (even/just) soup.
Am I going to have to eat that absolutely disgusting "Viscious-what(EVER!)" stuff from here on in?
Carry on.![]()
I'm looking for a bucket of that "pink slime" I am hearing about; it must be safe or they couldn't sell it, right?
And even then, it would require you to be doing so in a sealed container of constant volume.Well... I guess if I am ever vaping Sulfur Hexafluoride while floating around on MIR, then that would be something to Consider.
But the potatoes need to be cooked in a pot for Vichyssoise, which is actually quite good by the way.
And even then, it would require you to be doing so in a sealed container of constant volume.
"The overheating doesn’t violate the laws of thermodynamics because the expanding liquid performs mechanical work; the phenomenon would be impossible in a purely diffusive system."
Me too, which is why I do not worry about my vapor getting hotter than the heat source, i.e. the coil.Just me.
But I like to only Vape in Diffused Systems where my e-Liquids obey the Classical Laws of Thermodynamics.
Liquids generally don't act in this way. It tends to lower the heat of the system when changing state (this is how water puts out fire, the changing states from liquid to steam lowers the fire temp to below combustible levels). In a system where heat is constantly applied, you would end up with a zero sum at some point.....no more heat can be generated, but the liquid unable to lower the temp either. This seems to me what happens in a mech. In a regulated device, you could up the voltage high enough that the coil temp would continue to get hotter and hotter, but I don't imagine that would be a pleasant vape.The liquid can get hotter than the heat source depending on how long it is in contact with the heat source and how fast it can dump heat. A car left in the sun gets hotter than surrounding air because it can hold more heat. May be somebody here can express that more accurately than I just did.
How the liquid turns into vaper is worth understanding and I'm sure i still don't understand it.
BTW I tried the boiling water test on a vtc mini and it was giving me something like TCR or TFR error and wouldn't go above 70 F before cutting out. After rewicking and changing to e liquid things seem to be back to normal. Then I believe I got one try where the peak temp reached was 212 F. The max watts was set to 30 and may be that needed to be higher but it seemed like it didn't like the water which it spit around in a lively way.
I suspect it's quite simple: Liquid boils on the surface of the wire. Due to its viscosity and surface tension, this forms small bubbles, which burst into tiny droplets that are carried away by the airflow.How the liquid turns into vaper is worth understanding and I'm sure i still don't understand it.
I used an rda with a deep well and added water as need from a driipper bottle. If I get it working may be I'll make a video like the first two. i'm going to try some other devices and methods. The vtc mini is running the arctic fox firmware but I believe I was using the stock tcr values. The 70 F limit was interesting but now I'm wondering was it 70 F or 70 C? Tomorrow is another day. And that build would still pass the cotton burn test in the usual fashion.Its best to start with a dry wick with long tails. Dip the tails in a glass of water and then use very low wattage. Just enough power to reach ~200F in 5-10 seconds. Longer is better. Leave it open/exposed. Attempting to regulate the wicking of water in a tank is fruitile. Mods with hit timers are much more difficult to profile.
The readout of Joytech/Wismec/eLeaf mods tend to jump around.
I used an rda with a deep well and added water as need from a driipper bottle. If I get it working may be I'll make a video like the first two. i'm going to try some other devices and methods. The vtc mini is running the arctic fox firmware but I believe I was using the stock tcr values. The 70 F limit was interesting but now I'm wondering was it 70 F or 70 C? Tomorrow is another day. And that build would still pass the cotton burn test in the usual fashion.
Yes, it is quite good. I was only kidding.
I'm not really afraid to make soup either (just to complete the loop).
I suspect it's quite simple: Liquid boils on the surface of the wire. Due to its viscosity and surface tension, this forms small bubbles, which burst into tiny droplets that are carried away by the airflow.
Well, in that picture it looks to me like you're well beyond "just to the point where it starts to give off vapor."Oh, I can see it pretty clearly. But this doesn't appear to be the case here…as "it" seems to exude from every pore of every centimeter of this build. Although I do think there are simple explanations. Just sayin'.
Good luck.
p.s. The airstream at about 72 deg. here wasn't from a directed fan but a single duct 30' or more feet up and away in the lobby of my building.
I use kanthal wire so how should I use TC mode with that? I use 28g with 8 wraps on 2.5 jig that gives me 1.6 ohms that I vape at 12w.
Well, in that picture it looks to me like you're well beyond "just to the point where it starts to give off vapor."![]()