New studies find carcinogens in vg and pg at high temps, even in tootle puffers

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GeorgeS

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    Does someone have a link to this "boil test" being referenced?

    LOL, a mental picture of dunking my mod upside down in a thimble of water just doesnt sound quite right. Oooops, there goes another dna........
    :glug:

    It is in reference to a test a dedicated TC vapor came up with a year or more ago (not me, I forget who coined the idea). Much like the "cotton singe" test it is fairly easy to execute and get repeatable results as long as the mod doing the TC firing has a decent real time temperature display.

    The theory is simple: water boils at 224F and the surface of the water will never be higher than that. While with ENOUGH power we can surely make our coils much hotter than the boiling point of water however with just the right amount of power (say 10-15W or maybe less) firing a coil with a water primed/wicked wick will naturally flatten out at the temperature the mod thinks the water is boiling at. (the evaporation of the water will hold the temperature at 224F at least until enough of the water is boiled off)

    If your real time temperature display on your mod stops rising at +/- 10F of 224F then the TCR setting of the wire your using is likely fairly correct. (I was initially SHOCKED when my YiHi mods were dead nuts on 224F) Granted once the prime on the wick is boiled off the temperature will start rising again. Also of note, if you "water log" your wick it might take some time or never rise in temperate as the wick+water is to much heat sink for the coil+power level being used.

    Thus the "water test" combined with the "cotton singe test" are two cheap and fairly easy ways TC users can get two data points on the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.

    Some inexpensive mods will fluxuate wildly around 224F so the user needs to mentally calculate the average temperature that is being displayed. Then again some mods don't have a real time temperature display so only the "cotton singe test" is available to be used. (unless of course the user has the proper probes and temperature reading equipment)
     

    NU_FTW

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    Sorry, I just couldn't help myself...

    9bbbd537e44ad781f86dbb76b25e6e9b.jpg
    Ill take Number 1 :D
     
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    NU_FTW

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    It is in reference to a test a dedicated TC vapor came up with a year or more ago (not me, I forget who coined the idea). Much like the "cotton singe" test it is fairly easy to execute and get repeatable results as long as the mod doing the TC firing has a decent real time temperature display.

    The theory is simple: water boils at 224F and the surface of the water will never be higher than that. While with ENOUGH power we can surely make our coils much hotter than the boiling point of water however with just the right amount of power (say 10-15W or maybe less) firing a coil with a water primed/wicked wick will naturally flatten out at the temperature the mod thinks the water is boiling at. (the evaporation of the water will hold the temperature at 224F at least until enough of the water is boiled off)

    If your real time temperature display on your mod stops rising at +/- 10F of 224F then the TCR setting of the wire your using is likely fairly correct. (I was initially SHOCKED when my YiHi mods were dead nuts on 224F) Granted once the prime on the wick is boiled off the temperature will start rising again. Also of note, if you "water log" your wick it might take some time or never rise in temperate as the wick+water is to much heat sink for the coil+power level being used.

    Thus the "water test" combined with the "cotton singe test" are two cheap and fairly easy ways TC users can get two data points on the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.

    Some inexpensive mods will fluxuate wildly around 224F so the user needs to mentally calculate the average temperature that is being displayed. Then again some mods don't have a real time temperature display so only the "cotton singe test" is available to be used. (unless of course the user has the proper probes and temperature reading equipment)
    212 Cough 212 Coughcough cough
     

    NU_FTW

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    My memory surely is not what it used to be. ;)

    I stand/sit corrected.
    I s uppose if you can get BELOW sea level enough the number does change 212 is @ sea level :D in the mountains that number is less :p also assuming pure water as impurities will change the boiling point slightly :p Just figure if you are going to be throwing out numbers for some sort of test they ought to be correct so that the test is correct :p
     

    mikepetro

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    It is in reference to a test a dedicated TC vapor came up with a year or more ago (not me, I forget who coined the idea). Much like the "cotton singe" test it is fairly easy to execute and get repeatable results as long as the mod doing the TC firing has a decent real time temperature display.

    The theory is simple: water boils at 224F and the surface of the water will never be higher than that. While with ENOUGH power we can surely make our coils much hotter than the boiling point of water however with just the right amount of power (say 10-15W or maybe less) firing a coil with a water primed/wicked wick will naturally flatten out at the temperature the mod thinks the water is boiling at. (the evaporation of the water will hold the temperature at 224F at least until enough of the water is boiled off)

    If your real time temperature display on your mod stops rising at +/- 10F of 224F then the TCR setting of the wire your using is likely fairly correct. (I was initially SHOCKED when my YiHi mods were dead nuts on 224F) Granted once the prime on the wick is boiled off the temperature will start rising again. Also of note, if you "water log" your wick it might take some time or never rise in temperate as the wick+water is to much heat sink for the coil+power level being used.

    Thus the "water test" combined with the "cotton singe test" are two cheap and fairly easy ways TC users can get two data points on the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.

    Some inexpensive mods will fluxuate wildly around 224F so the user needs to mentally calculate the average temperature that is being displayed. Then again some mods don't have a real time temperature display so only the "cotton singe test" is available to be used. (unless of course the user has the proper probes and temperature reading equipment)
    Thanks, I will need to play with that.
     

    KenD

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    kennetgranholm.com
    It is in reference to a test a dedicated TC vapor came up with a year or more ago (not me, I forget who coined the idea). Much like the "cotton singe" test it is fairly easy to execute and get repeatable results as long as the mod doing the TC firing has a decent real time temperature display.

    The theory is simple: water boils at 224F and the surface of the water will never be higher than that. While with ENOUGH power we can surely make our coils much hotter than the boiling point of water however with just the right amount of power (say 10-15W or maybe less) firing a coil with a water primed/wicked wick will naturally flatten out at the temperature the mod thinks the water is boiling at. (the evaporation of the water will hold the temperature at 224F at least until enough of the water is boiled off)

    If your real time temperature display on your mod stops rising at +/- 10F of 224F then the TCR setting of the wire your using is likely fairly correct. (I was initially SHOCKED when my YiHi mods were dead nuts on 224F) Granted once the prime on the wick is boiled off the temperature will start rising again. Also of note, if you "water log" your wick it might take some time or never rise in temperate as the wick+water is to much heat sink for the coil+power level being used.

    Thus the "water test" combined with the "cotton singe test" are two cheap and fairly easy ways TC users can get two data points on the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.

    Some inexpensive mods will fluxuate wildly around 224F so the user needs to mentally calculate the average temperature that is being displayed. Then again some mods don't have a real time temperature display so only the "cotton singe test" is available to be used. (unless of course the user has the proper probes and temperature reading equipment)
    Water boils at 212℉ (100℃).

    Edit: sorry, it was addressed already I noticed

    Sent from my K6000 Pro using Tapatalk
     
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    GeorgeS

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    Thanks, I will need to play with that.

    The fun part is the inverse relationship with the TCR:
    • if the reading is to low your TCR is to high
    • if the reading is to high your TCR is to low
    I usually try it 2-3x and get a feeling of where the "flat spot" is. Sometimes it might be for as much as 10sec and other times as little as just a few. After a few runs you'll be able to recognize where it flattens out.

    I used this test to dial in INVAR36 when those of us trying it had no idea what wire it was or the TCR it required. It comes in handy with other wires and most mods.
     

    dwcraig1

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    The fun part is the inverse relationship with the TCR:
    • if the reading is to low your TCR is to high
    • if the reading is to high your TCR is to low
    I usually try it 2-3x and get a feeling of where the "flat spot" is. Sometimes it might be for as much as 10sec and other times as little as just a few. After a few runs you'll be able to recognize where it flattens out.

    I used this test to dial in INVAR36 when those of us trying it had no idea what wire it was or the TCR it required. It comes in handy with other wires and most mods.
    Was is labeled Invar36 or was it the NotNife52 from Unkamen?
    If Unkamen what TCR value did you come up with?
     

    GeorgeS

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    Was is labeled Invar36 or was it the NotNife52 from Unkamen?
    If Unkamen what TCR value did you come up with?

    Thanks for reminding me! I forgot about the "NotNife52" that someone (you?) came up with. It was from Unkamen. It has been to long since I've tried using it to recall the TCR. I still have spools of it in three gauges!
     
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    dwcraig1

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    Thanks for reminding me! I forgot about the "NotNife52" that someone (you?) came up with. It was from Unkamen. It has been to long since I've tried using it to recall the TCR. I still have spools of it in three gauges!
    I have only one spool of 26, not many got shipped I guess.
     

    soulseek

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    :?: thought for sure you'd have your answer by now, mike!
    could it be just plain water in the tank and watching for it to boil?

    It's simple physics and yes pretty much that, I mentioned a few pages back that it is a good indication of the accuracy of Evolv TC devices. As a side note, the most accurate TC device I've tested to date is the Dicodes chipset; if only they had a decent UI.

    Basically, water boils at 100C. You fill your tank with water, set your TC limit way above that, say 200C. Activate the atomiser and watch the screen. Your estimated (after all it's only an estimation) coil temperature on the screen should rise to 100 and then stop there, as long as your wick is wet with water.
    This happens because most energy from the coil goes into heating the water and since we're more or less close to STP, the coil doesn't go above 100C. The number you get on your mod in this case (let's say you get 96C) is one way to determine the accuracy of your TC device.
     

    awsum140

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    Contrary to popular belief, water, especially "pure" water isn't a very good conductor at all. Electrolyte enhanced water will conduct well, though. If you use distilled or purified water the conductivity will be so low it is not really a concern at all, especially at the level of resistance for a TCR coil. The conductivity of water does increase with temperature, but how much of a concern that actually is for a test like this is a good question.

    Overall, I'm not sure how accurate this test actually is. It's relying on the observation of boiling, either bubble or steam/vapor production. That does occur at 212F, 100C, but that doesn't mean the source of the heat is at the same temperature. It could be significantly higher. I would guess that by carefully raising the temperature until seeing those results, doing it more than once, and averaging the results would provide a fairly accurate guide.

    I may experiment just to check my own boards.
     
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