Um I'm gonna stick with a thermocouplethought for sure you'd have your answer by now, mike!
could it be just plain water in the tank and watching for it to boil?

Um I'm gonna stick with a thermocouplethought for sure you'd have your answer by now, mike!
could it be just plain water in the tank and watching for it to boil?
Ill take Number 1Sorry, I just couldn't help myself...
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212 Cough 212 Coughcough coughIt is in reference to a test a dedicated TC vapor came up with a year or more ago (not me, I forget who coined the idea). Much like the "cotton singe" test it is fairly easy to execute and get repeatable results as long as the mod doing the TC firing has a decent real time temperature display.
The theory is simple: water boils at 224F and the surface of the water will never be higher than that. While with ENOUGH power we can surely make our coils much hotter than the boiling point of water however with just the right amount of power (say 10-15W or maybe less) firing a coil with a water primed/wicked wick will naturally flatten out at the temperature the mod thinks the water is boiling at. (the evaporation of the water will hold the temperature at 224F at least until enough of the water is boiled off)
If your real time temperature display on your mod stops rising at +/- 10F of 224F then the TCR setting of the wire your using is likely fairly correct. (I was initially SHOCKED when my YiHi mods were dead nuts on 224F) Granted once the prime on the wick is boiled off the temperature will start rising again. Also of note, if you "water log" your wick it might take some time or never rise in temperate as the wick+water is to much heat sink for the coil+power level being used.
Thus the "water test" combined with the "cotton singe test" are two cheap and fairly easy ways TC users can get two data points on the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.
Some inexpensive mods will fluxuate wildly around 224F so the user needs to mentally calculate the average temperature that is being displayed. Then again some mods don't have a real time temperature display so only the "cotton singe test" is available to be used. (unless of course the user has the proper probes and temperature reading equipment)
212 Cough 212 Coughcough cough
My memory surely is not what it used to be.
I stand/sit corrected.
I s uppose if you can get BELOW sea level enough the number does change 212 is @ sea levelMy memory surely is not what it used to be.
I stand/sit corrected.
shucks! what's a degree here or there amongst friendsMy memory surely is not what it used to be.
I stand/sit corrected.
It could be argued the difference between a thermal breakdown and not?shucks! what's a degree here or there amongst friends![]()
Thanks, I will need to play with that.It is in reference to a test a dedicated TC vapor came up with a year or more ago (not me, I forget who coined the idea). Much like the "cotton singe" test it is fairly easy to execute and get repeatable results as long as the mod doing the TC firing has a decent real time temperature display.
The theory is simple: water boils at 224F and the surface of the water will never be higher than that. While with ENOUGH power we can surely make our coils much hotter than the boiling point of water however with just the right amount of power (say 10-15W or maybe less) firing a coil with a water primed/wicked wick will naturally flatten out at the temperature the mod thinks the water is boiling at. (the evaporation of the water will hold the temperature at 224F at least until enough of the water is boiled off)
If your real time temperature display on your mod stops rising at +/- 10F of 224F then the TCR setting of the wire your using is likely fairly correct. (I was initially SHOCKED when my YiHi mods were dead nuts on 224F) Granted once the prime on the wick is boiled off the temperature will start rising again. Also of note, if you "water log" your wick it might take some time or never rise in temperate as the wick+water is to much heat sink for the coil+power level being used.
Thus the "water test" combined with the "cotton singe test" are two cheap and fairly easy ways TC users can get two data points on the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.
Some inexpensive mods will fluxuate wildly around 224F so the user needs to mentally calculate the average temperature that is being displayed. Then again some mods don't have a real time temperature display so only the "cotton singe test" is available to be used. (unless of course the user has the proper probes and temperature reading equipment)
Water boils at 212℉ (100℃).It is in reference to a test a dedicated TC vapor came up with a year or more ago (not me, I forget who coined the idea). Much like the "cotton singe" test it is fairly easy to execute and get repeatable results as long as the mod doing the TC firing has a decent real time temperature display.
The theory is simple: water boils at 224F and the surface of the water will never be higher than that. While with ENOUGH power we can surely make our coils much hotter than the boiling point of water however with just the right amount of power (say 10-15W or maybe less) firing a coil with a water primed/wicked wick will naturally flatten out at the temperature the mod thinks the water is boiling at. (the evaporation of the water will hold the temperature at 224F at least until enough of the water is boiled off)
If your real time temperature display on your mod stops rising at +/- 10F of 224F then the TCR setting of the wire your using is likely fairly correct. (I was initially SHOCKED when my YiHi mods were dead nuts on 224F) Granted once the prime on the wick is boiled off the temperature will start rising again. Also of note, if you "water log" your wick it might take some time or never rise in temperate as the wick+water is to much heat sink for the coil+power level being used.
Thus the "water test" combined with the "cotton singe test" are two cheap and fairly easy ways TC users can get two data points on the accuracy of their mod+TCR+wire.
Some inexpensive mods will fluxuate wildly around 224F so the user needs to mentally calculate the average temperature that is being displayed. Then again some mods don't have a real time temperature display so only the "cotton singe test" is available to be used. (unless of course the user has the proper probes and temperature reading equipment)
Thanks, I will need to play with that.
Was is labeled Invar36 or was it the NotNife52 from Unkamen?The fun part is the inverse relationship with the TCR:
I usually try it 2-3x and get a feeling of where the "flat spot" is. Sometimes it might be for as much as 10sec and other times as little as just a few. After a few runs you'll be able to recognize where it flattens out.
- if the reading is to low your TCR is to high
- if the reading is to high your TCR is to low
I used this test to dial in INVAR36 when those of us trying it had no idea what wire it was or the TCR it required. It comes in handy with other wires and most mods.
Was is labeled Invar36 or was it the NotNife52 from Unkamen?
If Unkamen what TCR value did you come up with?
I have only one spool of 26, not many got shipped I guess.Thanks for reminding me! I forgot about the "NotNife52" that someone (you?) came up with. It was from Unkamen. It has been to long since I've tried using it to recall the TCR. I still have spools of it in three gauges!
thought for sure you'd have your answer by now, mike!
could it be just plain water in the tank and watching for it to boil?