Older Folks and Vaping

[MikeE3]

Yay!!! I got vapemail My sigelei zmax is here and wonderful!! For anyone considering these who also happens to be a Kanger fan.....they added the outside ego threads to the fitting......I put an MT3 on it to check and........yeppers!!! you can slap those Kangers on here and vape without using an adapter

Mine came yesterday. Yikes! Some folks complain about pushing the button on a Provari to navigate the menu. You almost need a Cliff Notes for Zmax to wander through it's menu. They're nicer than I expected - pretty happy with them. Aren't co-ops fun!

What 18650 batts are you using and do you use them with the regular end cap or the extended cap. I've heard a lot of people using the extended cap w/ 18650 to avoid undue pressure on the circuit board but I don't know if that's 'vaping folk lure' or something that really should be done. I'm using 18650 Panny's and there doesn't seem to be excess pressure on the spring when screwing on the std. cap.

 

[yiddleboge6]

Mine came yesterday. Yikes! Some folks complain about pushing the button on a Provari to navigate the menu. You almost need a Cliff Notes for Zmax to wander through it's menu. They're nicer than I expected - pretty happy with them. Aren't co-ops fun!

What 18650 batts are you using and do you use them with the regular end cap or the extended cap. I've heard a lot of people using the extended cap w/ 18650 to avoid undue pressure on the circuit board but I don't know if that's 'vaping folk lure' or something that really should be done. I'm using 18650 Panny's and there doesn't seem to be excess pressure on the spring when screwing on the std. cap.

Mike I'm using panny flat top 18650s in mine with the extension cap. I do the same with both of my Smoktech zmax. I haven't even tried the standard cap on these yet, but in the Smoktech zmax the spring was too long and too stiff on the standard cap. I bought the extension cap for that reason .........after attempting to cut the spring on the one I had and it went flying......never to be seen again

 

[MikeE3]

COOL!
First thing I noticed when I first started to use the ZAP was that the flavor was really intensified.
Everything must be correct, wick must be wicking and all coils firing with no shorts at the base (which is easy to do just ask me!)
The first re-coil make sure that the wick is not being pulled over to the bottom post (bottom coil) or it will wick very slow and the taste will be weird. This was the most important thing I found that was wrong once its wicking properly you do not have to tilt it at a very extreme angle if you do taste will suffer. Also keep playing with the position of the airhole this can also make a huge difference in taste and throat hit.
I am glad you got yours working and I hope that this might help in a small way!

Dean

Oh just wanted to add this,
I have done a 1.7, 2.2 & 2.6 OHM coil and I am happy with 1.7 at 3.7 volts very nice clean vape and great taste. At the higher OHM & voltage the taste suffers a tiny bit IMO but loads of vapor so its a small trade off.

If my wick/coil is snug in the wick hole, I wrap the neg leave counter-clockwise around the screw. Then when I tighten the screw it doesn't pull/tighten the coil around the bottom of the wick. I always wrap the top/pos lead counter clockwise to avoid 'pulling' the lead tight around the wick.

Yea - different wick diameters and mesh grade work differently w/ respect to 'angle of vape' with a genny. If it's a 'straw' style wick or a well wicking dense 500 mesh, if you tilt too much it can flood the coil and it effects vapor production. I wind up changing the 'angle of vape' too, depending how full the tank is - less juice in the tank - increase the angle. It all just becomes habit after awhile - like the Vivi Nova twirl and vape to keep the wick/coil area wet.

 

[Kat56]

Nice looking pic Mike

Fooey, my lunch is over...back to work...

 

[Janet H]

Okay Janet, now I have to dig through my wifes sewing box... Great idea...

When Mike was first starting with the wicks I thought of this immediately when he was trying to explain what he needed to do. I think you can still get them at a sewing/fabric center. He's got a tool for his fly tying that does the same thing and might even be better for going through a coil. The wire is longer and comes out of a brass handle. Actually, you could probably figure out how to make one now that you can see what it looks like.

 

[FranC]

I have no Zap problems to report as yet.

 

[Faylool]

The multiple push counts for menu was only reason I didn't try the Zmax but of course was often close to changing my mind because it looks a lot nicer than Vamo. I always put a skin on my Vamo. Working on second skin.
Since your talking about rbs I have a question. I have asked but didn't get answered in some rba thread but I didn't go in to enough detail is probably why ( oh and I guess mine is a rDa) Phoenix clone. It has the two posts same height going over the hole. Simple. I'm new to this. So when you are talking about clockwise and counter clockwise and positive and negative posts I need help.id be facing the horizontal wick in my tweezer held up before my eyes and this is where I'd be judging and labeling the clockwise side and counterclockwise side. The rDa is next insight. Which post is the positive post? They are the same height and equally distant from the hole. ( oh and in my minds eye for some reason I'm always getting the clockwise on the right because the starting end length of wire sticking out is pointed down on te side closest to my face and counterclockwise on left with the ending length pointed down on the side of the wick farthest from myface. I only need to turn the rDa to change which post the counterclockwise and clockwise pieces attach to. It doesn't seem to be marked.

 

[MikeE3]

The multiple push counts for menu was only reason I didn't try the Zmax but of course was often close to changing my mind because it looks a lot nicer than Vamo. I always put a skin on my Vamo. Working on second skin.
Since your talking about rbs I have a question. I have asked but didn't get answered in some rba thread but I didn't go in to enough detail is probably why ( oh and I guess mine is a rDa) Phoenix clone. It has the two posts same height going over the hole. Simple. I'm new to this. So when you are talking about clockwise and counter clockwise and positive and negative posts I need help.id be facing the horizontal wick in my tweezer held up before my eyes and this is where I'd be judging and labeling the clockwise side and counterclockwise side. The rDa is next insight. Which post is the positive post? They are the same height and equally distant from the hole. ( oh and in my minds eye for some reason I'm always getting the clockwise on the right because the starting end length of wire sticking out is pointed down on te side closest to my face and counterclockwise on left with the ending length pointed down on the side of the wick farthest from myface. I only need to turn the rDa to change which post the counterclockwise and clockwise pieces attach to. It doesn't seem to be marked.

My Gunmetal Vamo is beginning to look like it's been around since the days of Wyatt Earp. It's only a few months old and acquired quite the patina. Maybe i'll break down and get a skin for it if it gets too rough looking.

As to the Phoenix, the pos post is the one with an inuslator under it. When doing a silica or yarn wick, it's probably not a crucial which way you wrap the wire around the post before tightening the screw. But if I were doing one of these, the 1st connection I'd wrap clockwise, then tighten. The second connection, I'd wrap counter-clockwise and tighten. Doesn't matter which you do first with the P's configuration. Clockwise / Counter-clockwise would be when looking down on top of the screw.

 

[DEVO357]

ROFL I see Mike beat me to it!

 

[Faylool]

Ahhh. I see. I thought the end of the wick with the clockwise direction was what was needed to know for positive pot. I don't actually wap on my Phoenix, the little end piece just feed straight thru and I tighten the screw on it. Nothing to wrap? AND neither post has a washer on it. Just same same. It's a clone too. Not like pic but close. I do my coil from post to post up high, not cross thru between. Probably why it gets to burn time so fast? Ill do it like pic next time

 

[Flowersoul]

I mixed a combo earlier of 14% TFA butterscotch and 7% Cap Irish cream just to see what kind of result I would get.

I think Holly posted something similar back in October and she loved it!

Since both flavors are some of my favorites, I expected a bit more taste to it. Of course it hasn't steeped, and I am sporting a cold, so I guess I'll get back to my trusty peppermint for the rest of the evening and re-visit it tomorrow!

 

[FranC]

Peppermint rules!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Kat56]

True that!!!

 

[Kat56]

Fooey...my liker stopped working.

 

[Semiretired]

While we are talking about rebuiding stuff. Does anyone know the limit to how many times you can rebuild the T3's and stuff. Since there are silicon seals and other parts - they have to wear out sooner or later...

 

[Semiretired]

I have no Zap problems to report as yet.

Shhhh, do not jinx it...

 

[Constance Shutts]

Flowersoul, I like Cap Irish Cream, good stuff I mixed up a whiskey(FA) that was rather strong, so I added lemon juice at 1 drop per 3 mil and some sweetener and got a pretty good whiskey sour out of it

 

[schotzky]

I find it extremely difficult explaining PV's to older people. I sell eGo kits at my work and I have a lot of older people that ask about my ProVari, and it simply blows their mind (no offense). When they want to buy an eGo they quickly lose interest at all the smaller parts. I really want to sell them one (not just for the money) but to potentially pro long their life and get them off of cigarettes. Anybody have tips for explaining to the older generation on how they work? When they do buy one, I show them how to put it together and make sure it works, but some of them just don't get it.

 

[Ken_A]

@Semiretired - best answer to give for how long you can rebuild T3s and stuff... I will have to let you know. I've had to rebuild mine once but I've only been vaping since November of last year. No issues so far, but I'm sure that I could use the seals from a dead one in another one.

@schotzky - You could tell them that the Provari is a more advanced PV and that the Ego is an excellent and easy to use device. Give them a good system to start with. If you sell the Ego with the little tank, that can be a bit hard for them to use. Suggest that they try using a ViVi nova, Kanger, or other similar easy to use device. Demonstrate how easy they are to fill and let them know that they have to be filled less often. Stress the need for a back-up device. Try to keep the price under $60 to start with.

 

[Janet H]

While we are talking about rebuiding stuff. Does anyone know the limit to how many times you can rebuild the T3's and stuff. Since there are silicon seals and other parts - they have to wear out sooner or later...

Just keep rebuilding until it doesn't work anymore and keep the parts box handy!!