PDIB's Making MODs!
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Nope... it's new, and no, fasttech doesn't have it. It MIGHT be a Sigelei kick, but not a Sigelei mod. Actually, it's the first mod from a new Chinese manufacturer who is just now starting to make mods, but it's a clone of nothing. I spent some time last month poking around chinese manufacturers by calling them on the phone and speaking to their production managers. I learned a lot, and got some top of their top of the line samples.
What wattage does it go to? Do you know what chip it uses? Looks EXACTLY like my FASTTECH ones...
Regardless, definite clone
Regardless, definite clone
..oooh perfect segue... "is that a DiBi in your pocket or are you happy to see me?"
..hey look... SQUIRREL...... Dibi dance time..
Pffft... I never said that
(can't prove it!!
)
I don't know, the CHIP might be a sigelei is what I said, I have no idea what the chip is. The metal tube is new.
yep. used to be 22 but i gave a Woodvil away...
a certain modmaker asked me to space out my dibi desires, so it might take a while to catch up on dibis...
for the record, i know pdib doesn't like us to talk much about the dibi in the Reo forum, and i apologize to him about talking about Reos here.
let's all move on, have fun, and enjoy...
Huh? This doesn't have either... top and bottom:
Maybe that's a post... I don't know what it is...
Again, this is VERY cheap
It's a clone of a Kick, Kick version I has spring to make negative contact with the body. Kick version II has two spring loaded pins to make the negative contact. Also both say Evolv on the little boards.
Yes a piece of metal could be used to replace the kick clone, but you would need an insulator around it so it cannot touch anything other than the battery and positive pin of the 510 connector. If it touches you'll have hard short. Brass, copper or aluminum would be good choices for the spacer.
Do you have a multimeter / volt-ohm meter? IF not this would work http://rtdvapor.com/index.php/accessories/meters/510-voltage-indicator.html
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Certainly could be. Have no idea what chip the sigelei uses.
I have no idea about the battery tube. Never had an inclination for the tubes unless it was a twist or provari.
The tube says nothing about the insert.
I believe the sigelei is 10 watts, just like the original kick. Any way to check that?
I hope you know, I'm not being argumentative. I'm American and believe strongly in clones lol. Life is built on affordable interpretations of hoighty toity brands.
Rc cola for life!
( I hate soda lol... Does this work? =-p )
I have a little ohm meter to check builds, but I usually test on the Provari. It won't actually fire anything below 1.1 ohms, but it will read it. I actually never even used the real ohm meter, because the Provari works so well for that purpose, plus, it's a built in stand for building coils
. I don't really want to build a mechanical anyway... I have a Iching mech which I got in a trade. I'd love to know why it won't work.. it's a pure mech, nothing but metal, and I just don't get why it won't fire anything.
I keep meaning to mention, although many hard shorts can be detected by checking your build on a separate unit (provari, little Ω-checker black box thingy), many shorts occur between the atty and the mod (at the 510 connection). I check all my builds for shorts in situ, already screwed down onto the mod I'm vaping it on. Checking an atty for shorts and then screwing it onto your mod is only checking 1/2 the system, and is only 1/2 safe.
Pos post probably on the rda isn't connecting....
Is my two cents without seeing anything about it lol
You say it fires on the 'Vari? Def try to pull/ lower the pos pin on the rda. I would also check on you ohm meter, might confirm that... Or let you know this I Ching thing has a post set way too low. Does anything else fire on it?
Is my two cents without seeing anything about it lol
You say it fires on the 'Vari? Def try to pull/ lower the pos pin on the rda. I would also check on you ohm meter, might confirm that... Or let you know this I Ching thing has a post set way too low. Does anything else fire on it?
I have NO idea how these things work, remember, I'm still learning about electronics, I don't know anything about PCB except what they are called
. I'm American and I don't like clones that eat profits from real US products. HOWEVER, I have discovered that SOME real products are not real products, they are made in China OEM, but are absurdly marked up. I have said before, I always pick the quality if all things are equal. But things are not always equal. I see no reason to spend $200 for something that is nearly identical for $20, because it tells me that the $200 one was price-gouging. Note I said nearly identical, not BETTER just copied in crap materials and crap finish.
I would never buy Chinese for a product that was available in the US made IN the US, thus I own Provari. But I am very curious what they DO make, and I rarely wonder anything for long
. Some of the stuff they make is pretty good, but clearly not all.
I was JUST wondering that... something is wrong with the pin in the connector... too low... going to check now...
But seriously guys... we keep getting off topic, and I'm bad myself (maybe worse than anyone else because I'll go on and on with pix and mini novels). We should start new threads for all these other discussions, instead of on pdib's thread... lets go do this on one of the 'we hate provari' threads
. Pdib is too polite to throw us out, we should be able to control ourselves...
I don't hate provari. Good mod for what it is.
I love the Dibi! Can't wait it own it!
I love the Dibi! Can't wait it own it!
No no no. Not only do I not hate Provari, I LOVE Provari. I was suggesting that because we can derail those threads all day long
!!!I had an epiphany re: the Iching... er... this is almost humiliating to admit, but it takes a 18500 battery and all I have are 18350 and 18650 batteries. No wonder it doesn't work... the 18350s are too short (by 5mm) and the 18650 are too long and won't screw down. I can't believe I didn't notice that before.
. Er. Problem solved... least til I get a 18500 battery... ugh.
Bet you haven't vaped a DIBI yet!
So imho you don't get to say "bar none" Slot.
I've had a few different B/F's myself hmm let's see .Phidias Woodimus, V-Mod, Ali'i, Reo Mini, Reo Grand, VV Reo Grand, VV Ali'i, and I know there's a bunch of other brands of "custom" B/F's on the market, and in all those mentioned sub forums lots of loyal followers who swear by their choice I wouldn't think of going on their sub forums and saying DIBI is best "bar none".
but that's neither here nor there yawn.
You go bro!
btw I will say DIBI is the *only sub/ohms-ready B/F out there right now afaik, and made by a sub ohms outlaw hero at that!
I know and love Rob's gear too. He's a damn institution here on ECF and rightly so, but he doesn't vape sub ohms.
I'm a certifiable sub ohms mechanical device freak! and i covet my b/f designed by a sub ohms outlaw hero thank you very much. In fact I love my Reo Grand a whole lot more since Pdib modded it for sub ohms for me!
There's a lot of factors that go into loving a "mod", and Reo has a lot of the right stuff, damned straight, and i would never knock it, but for a 18650 B/F, the DIBI, for another thing, fits into the hand a little better too; like it was meant to be there (see dimensions not to mention the curved profile). Someone mentioned like 2 tubes together.
(future Dibberee's, don't worry about the set screw being necessary to hold the bottom base on the DIBI.. I actually don't know what its for .? since those magnets are awesome; but when you hold it in your hand and vape it, your pinky is right there at the bottom; you might as well call it a "gripper".
Well, I'm here a lot because I LOVE the way the Dibi looks too. And I'm hanging around waiting to find out when I can get mine, and see what everyone else got. I've spent more time here than any other part of the forum, that's a measure of how excited I am to get one. I fully expect my Dibi to be the best mod I own for a long time, and I have a LOT of mods.. LOL!
. I've spent more time here than any other part of the forum, that's a measure of how excited I am to get one. I fully expect my Dibi to be the best mod I own for a long time, and I have a LOT of mods.. LOL!
GlassGal, you're right. The Oliver is a very beautiful mod (especially with your wood) but the reason why there are so many technical guys on here is because it's also a perfectly engineered BF Mechanical. Pdib is an artist, no doubt about it, but he is also a great engineer to come up with a design like this that works so well. Alot of us, pdib included, have a big presence on the REO sub forum. The REO is a great device, but it has it's short comings. The REO cannot do sub ohm out of the box mainly due to the hot spring. The oliver addresses this with the fuse. The REO's firing pin causes unnecessary voltage drop, The oliver addresses this with beryllium copper firing pin. The REO uses a cheep brass + post/juice nipple that doesn't make the best conductivity, the Oliver uses a SS screw and double nuts the firing pin making it more conductive and easier to repair. (anything I missed? I only compared it to a REO because I don't own any other BF)
I used to have an X who bought cars because "that red one looks pretty" regardless of her transportation needs or the multitude of hidden mechanical problems. The beauty of the Oliver is that it looks pretty but is also a top performer, best of both worlds. My point is that there are a lot of improvements under the hood that cater to a certain type of vaper (sub-ohms). Just because it's designed for sub-ohm doesn't mean that's the only use, one could run this with a cartomizer, or even a tank if you wanted to. But if someone has never vaped a mechanical, and has never gone sub-ohm we just wanted to make you aware of all the factors that go into that set up. It's not ment to be a deterrent, but rather a learning experience. It's been proven many times before that if you push the vaping limits and don't know what you're doing there can be major problems.
I also have to say that the definition of a Mechanical Mod means that there is NO circuitry, and it works because of a Mechanical action not electronic control. The kick is a circuit board, anything you put that in will no longer be a mech mod. It doesnt matter if it has a display or not. I'm not saying mechanical is better than regulated, I'm just clarifying. My personal preference because of my vaping habits and style is mechanical.
I used to have an X who bought cars because "that red one looks pretty" regardless of her transportation needs or the multitude of hidden mechanical problems. The beauty of the Oliver is that it looks pretty but is also a top performer, best of both worlds. My point is that there are a lot of improvements under the hood that cater to a certain type of vaper (sub-ohms). Just because it's designed for sub-ohm doesn't mean that's the only use, one could run this with a cartomizer, or even a tank if you wanted to. But if someone has never vaped a mechanical, and has never gone sub-ohm we just wanted to make you aware of all the factors that go into that set up. It's not ment to be a deterrent, but rather a learning experience. It's been proven many times before that if you push the vaping limits and don't know what you're doing there can be major problems.
I also have to say that the definition of a Mechanical Mod means that there is NO circuitry, and it works because of a Mechanical action not electronic control. The kick is a circuit board, anything you put that in will no longer be a mech mod. It doesnt matter if it has a display or not. I'm not saying mechanical is better than regulated, I'm just clarifying. My personal preference because of my vaping habits and style is mechanical.
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GlassGal, you're right. The Oliver is a very beautiful mod (especially with your wood) but the reason why there are so many technical guys on here is because it's also a perfectly engineered BF Mechanical. Pdib is an artist, no doubt about it, but he is also a great engineer to come up with a design like this that works so well. Alot of us, pdib included, have a big presence on the REO sub forum. The REO is a great device, but it has it's short comings. The REO cannot do sub ohm out of the box mainly due to the hot spring. The oliver addresses this with the fuse. The REO's firing pin causes unnecessary voltage drop, The oliver addresses this with beryllium copper firing pin. The REO uses a cheep brass + post/juice nipple that doesn't make the best conductivity, the Oliver uses a SS screw and double nuts the firing pin making it more conductive and easier to repair. (anything I missed? I only compared it to a REO because I don't own any other BF)
I used to have an X who bought cars because "that red one looks pretty" regardless of her transportation needs or the multitude of hidden mechanical problems. The beauty of the Oliver is that it looks pretty but is also a top performer, best of both worlds. My point is that there are a lot of improvements under the hood that cater to a certain type of vaper (sub-ohms). Just because it's designed for sub-ohm doesn't mean that's the only use, one could run this with a cartomizer, or even a tank if you wanted to. But if someone has never vaped a mechanical, and has never gone sub-ohm we just wanted to make you aware of all the factors that go into that set up. It's not ment to be a deterrent, but rather a learning experience. It's been proven many times before that if you push the vaping limits and don't know what you're doing there can be major problems.
I also have to say that the definition of a Mechanical Mod means that there is NO circuitry, and it works because of a Mechanical action not electronic control. The kick is a circuit board, anything you put that in will no longer be a mech mod. It doesnt matter if it has a display or not. I'm not saying mechanical is better than regulated, I'm just clarifying. My personal preference because of my vaping habits and style is mechanical.
Great post, Sea! You have a way with words.
Mechs aren't for everyone but, man o' man, once you get it all figured out there's no going back to regulated mods (at least for me....Y(a'll's)MMV).
I have 5 Reos and love them all. They are work horses. But like you say, the Oliver has the best of both worlds. It's beautiful, feels like butta' and it performs like a Ferrari (when called upon). Or, if one isn't interested in subΩ, it's still one dam fine well crafted mod that will deliver your nic in style.
The Oliver is one of the "finer things in life" like a fine old scotch. Besides being beautiful, it's a brilliant design both aesthetically and performance wise and the craftsmanship is top notch. With the introduction of the dibi Oliver, Peter stands among the best mod makers anywhere. I know this sounds like advertisement but honestly.... I couldn't be happier with them.
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