pdibs, in the spec thread would you be so kind to put links to what is recommended for this newby who has only ever owned a MVP2 thus far? Many thanks!! 
PDIB's Making MODs!
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Thanks Val...I was thinking more like "Here, buy this battery, buy this atomizer, buy this charger..." I'm so new! Seriously bought a dripper and it sucked, no flavor no vapor. So it took me till today to figure out how to get the bottom off to replace the stock coils. Just built dual coils and it is just badbadbad still. I know, better to use it off my 3,000 mAh batt but I only have those or my MVP2s.
Some questions people would like answered my dear:
1) What size stabilized burl to purchase
2) Maybe a quality warning about stabilized burl since it can vary so greatly
3) Pricing index for the mod
These are just from the PMs I am getting on your behalf lol.
1) What size stabilized burl to purchase
2) Maybe a quality warning about stabilized burl since it can vary so greatly
3) Pricing index for the mod
These are just from the PMs I am getting on your behalf lol.
pdibs, in the spec thread would you be so kind to put links to what is recommended for this newby who has only ever owned a MVP2 thus far? Many thanks!!
Atties? What ValHeli said.
If not please specify.
which brings to mind . . . . .
This mod is, by design, very easy to manipulate, adjust, maintain and modify. That, however, entails some experience with the aforementioned verbs (← see, manipulate, adjust, maintain and modify). I'm calling this an "intermediate" user's mod. It is, as is the case with all mechanical mods and rebuildable atomizers, strongly suggested that the end user have a Multimeter and a knowledge of how to check for continuity, resistance, and etc. Also, the ability to tweak (effectively) small parts with screwdriver, pliers or wrench.
Say, for example, your mod won't fire. The first thing I'm going to suggest is that you assemble ONLY the bottom cap, body and battery; then, using your multimeter, check for resting battery voltage at the exposed (negative) end of the battery and the top of the centerpost (+ . .. the brass post running up the center of the body). If no voltage detected, adjust the center post 1/10th turn down/clockwise and check again.
If ↑ that makes absolutely no sense to you . . . . .. be prepared for a learning curve.
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What is this "screwdriver" that you speak of?
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Atties? What ValHeli said.
If not please specify.
which brings to mind . . . . .
This mod is, by design, very easy to manipulate, adjust, maintain and modify. That, however, entails some experience with the aforementioned verbs (← see, manipulate, adjust, maintain and modify). I'm calling this an "intermediate" user's mod. It is, as is the case with all mechanical mods and rebuildable atomizers, strongly suggested that the end user have a Multimeter and a knowledge of how to check for conductivity, resistance, and etc. Also, the ability to tweak (effectively) small parts with screwdriver, pliers or wrench.
Say, for example, your mod won't fire. The first thing I'm going to suggest is that you assemble ONLY the bottom cap, body and battery; then, using your multimeter, check for resting battery voltage at the exposed (negative) end of the battery and the top of the centerpost (+ . .. the brass post running up the center of the body). If no voltage detected, adjust the center post 1/10th turn down/clockwise and check again.
If ↑ that makes absolutely no sense to you . . . . .. be prepared for a learning curve.
Okay, I'm good on that. I rebuild all my Protank coils so am familiar with trouble shooting coils that don't register etc but the batteries needed. the chargers needed, I'm thinking RM2 for the atty. Just went from the pool to swimming in the ocean.
Thanks, Kids! Sorry 'bout the shrapnel.
For the time being, I'm trying to disclose sizes only by PM. Ain't nobody should be ordering no materials until he/she and I have talked a bit. So, while we're talking, I can share that info.
There is some variation in what's called stabilized burl. Mostly (as I understand it) the material is impregnated by acrylics through vacuum and then pressure. The extent to which the material is "stabilized" or impregnated will greatly affect the quality, strength and resilience of the end product. When it comes to people requesting that the top and bottom of their mod be made of this material as well, I can't say whether it will work until I've got the material and cut into it. Folks would probably be happiest if they were willing to see Richlite on their caps as a fall-back, if their stabilized material doesn't prove hearty enough to not snap at 1/4" thickness, and hold threads for machine screws and whatnot.
I'na have a vape-break, gather my thoughts, and come back with a post on pricing.
anybody that knows Mr Pdib from the documented research (ecf) will see that he is a direct blood descendant of the balloon animalist guild (party balloonists that make shapes from balloons)… ergo him and his pals like Mundy and their magic micro coils.
prior to that it seems he made short work of every known sub ohms mechanical device and RBA, coil and wick, to focus on hot rodding bottom feeders and atomizers atomizers for such.
he quickly gained infamy posted in the top 3 list of Reo "outlaws" … guys hotrodding and sub ohming their bottom feeders, and often found chumming with a big urangatan.
the above short bio is to give those newly arrived to Dib awareness a hint… know your stuff (batts, coils, etc etc) Not to scare anyone off; as Pdib has a way of coaching that is pretty awesome.
prior to that it seems he made short work of every known sub ohms mechanical device and RBA, coil and wick, to focus on hot rodding bottom feeders and atomizers atomizers for such.
he quickly gained infamy posted in the top 3 list of Reo "outlaws" … guys hotrodding and sub ohming their bottom feeders, and often found chumming with a big urangatan.
the above short bio is to give those newly arrived to Dib awareness a hint… know your stuff (batts, coils, etc etc) Not to scare anyone off; as Pdib has a way of coaching that is pretty awesome.
i thought a 'screwdriver' was some fancy drink in Ocean's 11, but HRH has just informed me it's that whining device she used to put HER coffee-table together!
I can honestly say i'm underwhelmed in either case. I'll put my beer on the printer stand same as the last 5 years.
T
I can honestly say i'm underwhelmed in either case. I'll put my beer on the printer stand same as the last 5 years.
T
pdibs I'm excited to have Richlite as my top and bottom. I think it frames the wood beautifully! Still tinkering with my new dripping atty. I am a babe swimming through huge waves.
Well put, ukeman.
A note about buying wood to all:
I went into this knowing that if the wood I presented to dibby was no good - it would be on me. I knew that there was the possibility that the wood I purchased from a third party could have knots and other internal, unseen flaws that would not be conducive to milling and could possibly be unmillable (<--is that a real word). As fortune would have it, it turned out that the the wood block I bought was perfect through and through....just sompin' to keep in mind folks.
Why I'm leaving it to the artist making the precious...PDIBS you are a very skilled artist!
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