PDIB's Making MODs!

[IMEDICx90]

Thanks. Going to post my question in the mod forum!!

I wasn't trying to be snarky. Just waiting on a response from you as to whether you have a mechanical or not.

Here is a nice tool for calculating your voltage and amperage rating based off of ohms law:

http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/ohms_law_calculator.php

Skim through this it should give you a little insight as to what your dealing with regarding ohms law:

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law

Here is a good spot for mechanical mod safety(including battery safety).
You will have to peruse it a bit but all the information is there. It's where I went when I started with them:
http://www.vapefox.com.au/mechanical-mod-guide-ezp-15.html


Hopefully that helps. I am searching for the thread on cleaning your contacts and such but I haven't found it just yet. I'll post it once I find it.


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[supertrunker]

I like this better.

T

 

[glassgal]

I wasn't trying to be snarky. Just waiting on a response from you as to whether you have a mechanical or not.

Here is a nice tool for calculating your voltage and amperage rating based off of ohms law:

Ohm's Law Calculator

Skim through this it should give you a little insight as to what your dealing with regarding ohms law:

Ohm's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Here is a good spot for mechanical mod safety(including battery safety).
You will have to peruse it a bit but all the information is there. It's where I went when I started with them:
Mechanical Mod Beginners Guide


Hopefully that helps. I am searching for the thread on cleaning your contacts and such but I haven't found it just yet. I'll post it once I find it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh no no, I responded here first, but decided that if we ended up going on and on, we'd just distract from dibi discussion further....

I started a new thread for mech mod advantages, can you answer over there:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/521994-mech-mod-advantages.html

*edited to change link to the forum Classwife moved it to*

Thanks!

 

[glassgal]

I wasn't trying to be snarky. Just waiting on a response from you as to whether you have a mechanical or not.

Here is a nice tool for calculating your voltage and amperage rating based off of ohms law:

Ohm's Law Calculator

Skim through this it should give you a little insight as to what your dealing with regarding ohms law:

Ohm's law - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Here is a good spot for mechanical mod safety(including battery safety).
You will have to peruse it a bit but all the information is there. It's where I went when I started with them:
Mechanical Mod Beginners Guide


Hopefully that helps. I am searching for the thread on cleaning your contacts and such but I haven't found it just yet. I'll post it once I find it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quick note on cleaning contacts... you can swipe them with 99% alcohol, and if you have a bad stain, rubber eraser takes it off best. If you have juice stuck on your circuit board, I found that a dedicated Electronics Spray cleaner works wonders (it repaired my broken itaste 134 in minutes). I'm sure there are others, but this is the one I got: CRC 05101 QD Electronic Cleaner - 4.5 Wt Oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

If you don't have gunk ON your boards, canned air is probably more than you need.

Do I have a mechanical already? Well, I THOUGHT the one I had with a kick was a mechanical... but turns out that kicks aren't mechanical (dunno, that's what you guys said). So I guess I have no mechanicals.

Oh wait. I have a broken IChing I got as a partial trade for something. I THINK that's a fully mechanical, but it doesn't work, and I have no clue why. I took this to my local vape shop, and the guy there says he thinks it's a real one, because it looks absolutely nothing like the Sigelei IChing's they sell in the store (mine's 100% stainless, his Sigelei is chrome plated, even tho they physically have the identical design, logos and imprints). I have no clue. The problem here is, I know so little about the way these work that I don't know what questions to ask yet. And not knowing the question is a much bigger deal than not knowing the answer to anything.

 

[IMEDICx90]

Quick note on cleaning contacts... you can swipe them with 99% alcohol, and if you have a bad stain, rubber eraser takes it off best. If you have juice stuck on your circuit board, I found that a dedicated Electronics Spray cleaner works wonders (it repaired my broken itaste 134 in minutes). I'm sure there are others, but this is the one I got: CRC 05101 QD Electronic Cleaner - 4.5 Wt Oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

If you don't have gunk ON your boards, canned air is probably more than you need.

Do I have a mechanical already? Well, I THOUGHT the one I had with a kick was a mechanical... but turns out that kicks aren't mechanical (dunno, that's what you guys said). So I guess I have no mechanicals.

Oh wait. I have a broken IChing I got as a partial trade for something. I THINK that's a fully mechanical, but it doesn't work, and I have no clue why. I took this to my local vape shop, and the guy there says he thinks it's a real one, because it looks absolutely nothing like the Sigelei IChing's they sell in the store (mine's 100% stainless, his Sigelei is chrome plated, even tho they physically have the identical design, logos and imprints). I have no clue. The problem here is, I know so little about the way these work that I don't know what questions to ask yet. And not knowing the question is a much bigger deal than not knowing the answer to anything.

Is the kick removable? If so what's the mod it's in? Because a kick is for use in a mechanical to make it adjustable for wattage.


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[supertrunker]

a kick is a board to turn a mechanical into a variable wattage device. Without it, one usually uses bigger batteries to occupy the room the kick uses and then it's all about coils and batteries.

It does not change the nature of the device it is fitted to, it just gives options.

T

 

[MamaTried]

Mama gots wood.... gonna be bowlegged soon...

 

[Filthy-Beast]

The basics are pretty simple. Do not exceed the maximum continuous amp load of the battery. Doing so can trigger a thermal event. A hard short in the system will cause this very quickly and the amp load is supper high. I like to stay at 70% of max load or less.

An AW 1600mah can handle 24 amps max, so a 70% load is 16.8 amps with a 30% safety margin.
AW 2000mah can handle 10 amps max, and your 30% load would be 7 amps.

Using the ohm calculators use 4.2(fully charge battery) for volts and 16.8 for amps, this shows that you can run any coil of .25 ohm or greater on the AW 1600 mah. The same calculator show that you should not go below a .6 ohm coil with AW 2000mah battery.

the ohm calculator can be used to show you the amp load of any coil by putting in 4.2 for volts and the ohms of the coil you built.

Because there is no protection circuit in the mechanical a fuse or hot spring is a great safety feature. So that if a short occurs either the fuse blows or the spring collapses before the battery can overheat and start thermal runaway. The Dibi has a fuse.

So use an ohm meter to check your builds for shorts and to know what ohm your coil is. Use good batteries from a good supplier, know the battery max continuous discharge rate. Using the ohm calculator build coils that will pull no more than 70% of the batteries max amp load and you're set.

 

[ukeman]

Oh no no, I responded here first, but decided that if we ended up going on and on, we'd just distract from dibi discussion further....

I started a new thread for mech mod advantages, can you answer over there:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/apv-discussion/521994-mech-mod-advantages.html

*edited to change link to the forum Classwife moved it to*

Thanks!

You will get some very interesting comments from the likes of ie Turbocad6, Dr G is good at 'splainin like how eventually all mechs will be obsolete just because there are going to be better battery options (longer running) for high watt regulated mods,

although many will say one of the best things about a good mech is you can always fix it yourself; or that it will never die or need technical fiddling with.

I only vape mech for the last year after 3 years of Provari etc…due to my love of sub ohms per which a smaller batt (14500, 18500) would fizzle too soon and even not have enough output and can be dangerous

 

[supertrunker]

it needs technical fiddling with alright - it's not easy to wrap a coil of dead on resistance on the nose! And the lower i go the worse it gets because i have to allow for the deviation in accuracy from my multimeter!

Luckily for me, while HRH was wasting my money on new headphones, i bought a devious little gadget that will measure the temperature and internal resistance of my batteries. I'll know when they are cooked then!

T

 

[ukeman]

it needs technical fiddling with alright - it's not easy to wrap a coil of dead on resistance on the nose! And the lower i go the worse it gets because i have to allow for the deviation in accuracy from my multimeter!

Luckily for me, while HRH was wasting my money on new headphones, i bought a devious little gadget that will measure the temperature and internal resistance of my batteries. I'll know when they are cooked then!

T

if you take SuperX's Micro coil chart and pick one of either those couple of ID specs (umm 1/16", .55mm, or close) for a jig, and count up to oh, anywhere from 7 or 8 to 12 (wraps) with say 28 or 30g wire ( i like 26g nich) …

granted we're using 15C rated 650 batts

can't go wrong.

unless of course a wire touches the wrong thingie…

just sayin for those interested in such stuff

 

[SkinyFatMan]

Mama gots wood.... gonna be bowlegged soon...
View attachment 301535

Beautiful wood mama! Some of those look absolutely stunning.

How thick are the big blocks there? They look like you might be able to get 4 DibiOlivers out of them.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Quick note on cleaning contacts... you can swipe them with 99% alcohol, and if you have a bad stain, rubber eraser takes it off best. If you have juice stuck on your circuit board, I found that a dedicated Electronics Spray cleaner works wonders (it repaired my broken itaste 134 in minutes). I'm sure there are others, but this is the one I got: CRC 05101 QD Electronic Cleaner - 4.5 Wt Oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

If you don't have gunk ON your boards, canned air is probably more than you need.

Do I have a mechanical already? Well, I THOUGHT the one I had with a kick was a mechanical... but turns out that kicks aren't mechanical (dunno, that's what you guys said). So I guess I have no mechanicals.

Oh wait. I have a broken IChing I got as a partial trade for something. I THINK that's a fully mechanical, but it doesn't work, and I have no clue why. I took this to my local vape shop, and the guy there says he thinks it's a real one, because it looks absolutely nothing like the Sigelei IChing's they sell in the store (mine's 100% stainless, his Sigelei is chrome plated, even tho they physically have the identical design, logos and imprints). I have no clue. The problem here is, I know so little about the way these work that I don't know what questions to ask yet. And not knowing the question is a much bigger deal than not knowing the answer to anything.

Just be sure and use that contact cleaner in a well ventilated area and no sparks or flames.
I used to work as an electronics bench tech and repeated use without ventilation can cause pneumonia and other bronchial problems due to the hexane components and is extremely flammable.

 

[MamaTried]

Beautiful wood mama! Some of those look absolutely stunning.

How thick are the big blocks there? They look like you might be able to get 4 DibiOlivers out of them.

the big blocks are 4x4x~1-7/8. all 7 cost $30 combined, but only 2 or 3 appear to be modworthy. (i figured it was worth a shot.)

 

[Ian444]

On the mech thing, I hesitate to say it, being a part-time bench tech, and knowing that electron flow is just that, I feel the vape tastes better with a battery power supply rather than a power supply like from a Vamo or MVP. I can set up my Vamo or MVP with a top fed dripper for the same voltage as a battery mech (Reo), then swap the atty to the Reo and prefer the vape. Slight difference, I can taste it, seems to have a more-defined flavor. In theory, I don't think I should be able to notice any difference at all. I often wonder about it, maybe its just BS, I don't really know. What I do know is I'm preferring a non-regulated battery powered mod at this stage.

 

[Ian444]

the big blocks are 4x4x~1-7/8. all 7 cost $30 combined, but only 2 or 3 appear to be modworthy. (i figured it was worth a shot.)

Good score Mama! Done well. They all look modworthy in the pic...

 

[supertrunker]

On the mech thing, I hesitate to say it, being a part-time bench tech, and knowing that electron flow is just that, I feel the vape tastes better with a battery power supply rather than a power supply like from a Vamo or MVP. I can set up my Vamo or MVP with a top fed dripper for the same voltage as a battery mech (Reo), then swap the atty to the Reo and prefer the vape. Slight difference, I can taste it, seems to have a more-defined flavor. In theory, I don't think I should be able to notice any difference at all. I often wonder about it, maybe its just BS, I don't really know. What I do know is I'm preferring a non-regulated battery powered mod at this stage.

I think it related to the chips in those mods, apparently to some people that presumably have dog's ears, can hear the 33mHz rattlesnake effect!

T

 

[glassgal]

Is the kick removable? If so what's the mod it's in? Because a kick is for use in a mechanical to make it adjustable for wattage.

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Yes, the kick is easily removable, so can be changed to whatever kick I want. it's an incredibly simple device. But no, it can't fire without the kick, because it's built into a space dedicated for the kick, and cannot be removed, as the bottom of the actual connector is attached to that space, and the battery compartment has a ring (which I suppose can be grinded away) that prevents the battery itself from sliding up to the connector without the kick. There's just a coil at the bottom and that's the whole thing. Every component is replaceable, it's just a tube with a kick and a connector.

Well, here's what it is...and fits any sized battery you can buy, but I use 18650 or 18350. It telescopes, but not noticeably telescoping:

 

[glassgal]

Mama gots wood.... gonna be bowlegged soon...
View attachment 301535

Those are nice! Well, the stack on the left are nice... can't really tell what the stack on the right look like...

The 2nd and 3rd down from the top are really nice! 4th too. While the others are nice, they don't have as much character. Need better pix of the 3rd one (like the face).

 

[supertrunker]

looks like a GG clone to me and all you need to use it kickless is a tube the right length. BUT - let's not do that just yet huh??

The kick will help you if you inadvertently have a short in your atty or some other problem. Then it will not fire, and that's a good thing.

T