PDIB's Making MODs!

[MasterofNone]

May I present Lily, my Madrona wood OliveR Dibi






I am so in love... She feels so right in my hand... Rounded, comfortable, warm. your the man peter!

Just one question. Tightened on, my rm2 will only fire when screwed on to the point where the coil in facing the button. Tried multiple washers and any that keep it firm in the 12 I clock position don't allow it to fire. Any suggestions?

 

[ValHeli]

Nice to see all these raging woody pant squonkers so early in the morning!

 

[Dan Knight]

May I present Lily, my Madrona wood OliveR Dibi
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I am so in love... She feels so right in my hand... Rounded, comfortable, warm. your the man peter!

Just one question. Tightened on, my rm2 will only fire when screwed on to the point where the coil in facing the button. Tried multiple washers and any that keep it firm in the 12 I clock position don't allow it to fire. Any suggestions?

She's lovely, MoN!


Sent from Mars using Flash Gordon's radio.

 

[pdib]

Hey M.o.N. Glad it pleases!

That's the kin'a one thing about the RM2. Almost all the other atties, you can build to the side where it wants to sit, and orient the cap appropriately. First thing I would try (carefully) is to get to know the + connection in the bottom of the RM2. It can screw out (and maybe in too). Have you seen the RM2 disassembled thread?

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...2-full-atomizer-itself-rebuild-pic-heavy.html

That bottom screw can come out 1/4-1/2 turn without anything falling apart.

So, that's one thing. The other thing (and this is what I've done on two of them now). Unscrew the neg post in the atty. Spin the ceramic until you'r post hole is hovering over the "used to be a post, but now I'm a squonker hole" socket (you'll see it, down in the metal base, peeking through the ceramic hole), and screw your post in there. OR Just unscrew the neg post and screw it in the other hole without spinning the ceramic. Whichever way, you'll end up either inverting your atty 180°, or rotating by about 30°. Now, your air hole is in the wrong place. Time for the tiniest 0-ring I sent you (where the cap seats on the atty base), or about 13 winds of sewing thread around the base of the threads on the atty base.

 

[MasterofNone]

Thank you Sire!

 

[pdib]

Oh, another thing you can do . . . . . grab a nice sharp file, and file down the bottom of the RM2. I haven't tried this, I'm just coming up with it now. Take out the + pin in the atty base. file down the 510 connector . . .. a little. Put the + pin back in, file it down a little (but not flush to the collar, leave it proud a little)

Or just file/sand the whole bottom end of the connector down and cross your fingers you don't short out. (tee-hee).



FYI, the 510 connector in the Mod can be altered. But it's major work. I don't think it's easier than any of the above suggestions. AND who knows what your next atty is going to want to do?

 

[Megan Kogijiki Ratchford]

MoN and DanK those are beauties, congrats!!

 

[pdib]

Oh, as long as I'm rambling . .. . has anyone ever tried this? (we used to do this with the cheap DID clones . .. the screw on cap would never align the airhole). Put some sandpaper on a flat surface, and set the cap on it. Sand it a little (little circular motions, keeping it set firm and flat against the paper). Check to see where it spins to now. Sand some more, check, sand, check. You can probably get about 100-180° of airhole location adjustment just like that. don't forget, the airhole is gonna move clockwise, always seating a little further in the spin.

oh, we used to do that with the early AGA-Ts too, I think.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

You can also try a drip tip o-ring around the 510 connector on the RM2, it requires more force to get to seat but works. I do this with one of my RM2 because I want it to face the firing button and without the o-ring it's is either too loose or I'm worried I'll bottom it out and damage the center pin in the mod.

 

[pdib]

Rambling? Whose rambling?


What I always do for airhole tho, is just drill it out to a hair smaller than my tiniest machine screw (I picked up some real tiny ones). Screw in the screw, nip it off, file and sand it flat, buff it out. Drill a new hole.

(that's why I have 2 brass RM2s. they went brass after this type of event)

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Rambling? Whose rambling?


What I always do for airhole tho, is just drill it out to a hair smaller than my tiniest machine screw (I picked up some real tiny ones). Screw in the screw, nip it off, file and sand it flat, buff it out. Drill a new hole.

(that's why I have 2 brass RM2s)

Oh that's a good trick, I'm going to file that for future use.

 

[MasterofNone]

Well.... It's registering a short now, after I took it apart and put back together ( badly) the screws look ugly and brassy now lol. Rocking a milled one right now and if looks funny. Whatevs still hitting fantastic =-p I'll work on it tomorrow night

 

[ValHeli]

Yup, that's one of my early "lessons learned" when messing with the RM2. The brass doesn't take much to get damaged. I cross threaded one of mine.

 

[Treebeard]

May I present Lily, my Madrona wood OliveR Dibi
View attachment 304620
View attachment 304621
View attachment 304623
View attachment 304624
View attachment 304626

I am so in love... She feels so right in my hand... Rounded, comfortable, warm. your the man peter!

Just one question. Tightened on, my rm2 will only fire when screwed on to the point where the coil in facing the button. Tried multiple washers and any that keep it firm in the 12 I clock position don't allow it to fire. Any suggestions?

Outstanding, MoN! Love the dark knot on the side. It's a great distinguishing character marking.

 

[SkinyFatMan]

So I just got word that the large piece of stabilized wood that I got from arizonaironwood.com is too brittle for makaing the top and bottom caps for my Dibi OliveR. Pdib is going to go ahead and make the "Standard" mod with richlite caps, and hopefully everything will go smoothly.

Fingers crossed

 

[X-Puppy]

Congratulations MasterofNone!

That Lily is a sweet looking Madrona - She's a "10" & #10 in the first batch.

Welcome to pdiberdabberville!

 

[Xobeloot]

If all goes well (and I get out of work at a reasonable time), I'll be drilling and cutting tubes this evening. I'll get one set up and do another day of testing to make sure there are no major fubars. Assuming I don't find any major deal breakers, they'll be ready to go. this week.

Just an FYI... I was planning to put a wick & coil on before I sent it out... If ya want, I'll skip it and save you the step of yanking out my coil & wick.

That would be great. I'd like to see the full assembly in order to replicate it.

I typically vape .6-.8, so your build should be perfect


Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2

 

[MasterofNone]

It really is such a beautiful, elegant design. Can't wait for my second one
Gonna try working on my rm2 tonight when I get home, but may end up trying another atty. I would even get a cyclone, though I'd briefer brass, I just wish it was a lower feeder hole. I like that my rm2 drains...

 

[MasterofNone]

Hmmm interesting thing I noticed.... While my milled rm2 has that flat head screw part in the pos pin at the bottom.... My unmilled does not.
Oh and the metal disk under the ceramic doesn't come out.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Have you removed the positive post, it screws into that disk from top.