PDIB's Making MODs!

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pdib

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M.o.N. I would say that if you vape unflavored, the Mundy's would probably be unnecessary work. Furthermore, as Mundy himself says, some few flavors actually taste kin'a weird when all their notes are highlighted by this flavor enhancing wire. Lastly, the excellent, intense, flavor with Mundy's comes at a very slight cost in performance (not quite as fast as a simple 26 Nichrome coil) and ease of use (it requires a hair more attention in squonking thoroughly and frequently).
 

Filthy-Beast

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Question for those of you that have a cyclone and modified it for better drainage.....how in the world to you get the center post out? I tried to unscrew from the bottom at the 510 connection and that sucker wont budge. My plan was to slot it with a dremel, I think that would be easier than trying to drill it.

20 minutes in freezer worked for mine but they are tough, Others have drilled it in place.
 

MasterofNone

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So maybe I'm crazy, but does this look like the number 17 to you guys? :) this totally wasn't my handiwork
image.jpgimage.jpg
 

Rossum

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High-end mechanical watches are about the engineering that is inside. Any cell phone can sync with one of the atomic clocks and be perfectly accurate. But it's about all the engineering and all the parts that are powered by just a spring, no electronics no batteries. This is accurate to within a second or two over an entire month.
Two orders of magnitude more accurate than COSC chronometer standards? Why am I skeptical? :?:
 

Treebeard

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Question for those of you that have a cyclone and modified it for better drainage.....how in the world to you get the center post out? I tried to unscrew from the bottom at the 510 connection and that sucker wont budge. My plan was to slot it with a dremel, I think that would be easier than trying to drill it.

I was able to push/hammer mine out (Cyclone AFC) with little resistance (it wasn't threaded). I used the chuck end of a drill bit slightly larger than the post and tamped it down with a small hammer. Of course this won't work if yours is threaded.
 

Copterstyle

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I was able to push/hammer mine out (Cyclone AFC) with little resistance (it wasn't threaded). I used the chuck end of a drill bit slightly larger than the post and tamped it down with a small hammer. Of course this won't work if yours is threaded.

I'm guessing the post is threaded if it is slotted on the bottom? Is yours slotted?
 

Filthy-Beast

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Mine is slotted. Some folks have reported that their post is threaded. I don't know how to tell. I just took a chance.

View attachment 305890
My cyclone's and Divo were all threaded. Threads cut into the pin anyway. I wondering if they are pushing hot pins into the plastic instead of screwing them in and that why it's so hard to get out.
 

BuzzKilla

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In my ERA, the pin is threaded into the insulator, and the pin + insulator are friction fit into the atty.

I'm assuming the threads are there because, you can install the insulator into the atty, and screwing in the centre pin will expand the insulator making it a tighter fit.... kinda like a screw anchor.
This is all just assumptions though... i wasn't part of the design process.

BOOM SCIENCE!
 

Alexander Mundy

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M.o.N. I would say that if you vape unflavored, the Mundy's would probably be unnecessary work. Furthermore, as Mundy himself says, some few flavors actually taste kin'a weird when all their notes are highlighted by this flavor enhancing wire. Lastly, the excellent, intense, flavor with Mundy's comes at a very slight cost in performance (not quite as fast as a simple 26 Nichrome coil) and ease of use (it requires a hair more attention in squonking thoroughly and frequently).

^^^^^What he said ^^^^^

Some complex flavors get proportionally out of whack.
I squonk a hefty squonk every other draw to saturate the coil.
Not a cloud producer as it seems to be a little "whispier" vapor.
I think that is due to smaller vapor particles, which might explain the flavor enhancement.
 

BuzzKilla

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Question for those of you that have a cyclone and modified it for better drainage.....how in the world to you get the center post out? I tried to unscrew from the bottom at the 510 connection and that sucker wont budge. My plan was to slot it with a dremel, I think that would be easier than trying to drill it.

wouldn't it be easier to just drill the centre post from the top?
there is already a hole for the setscrew... so all you gotta do is find a bit that fits inside of it, and continue until you reach the other side...
a small hole or slit on the side of the post and you have yourself a bonafied bottom-fed atty....
 

pdib

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Yes, M.o.N. it does look like a "17". Who knows, maybe everybody's Mod has their # mysteriously inscribed somewhere on it.

BTW: to the "numbering pests" :)tongue:) . . .. I am tracking numbers. Each mod is a particular # in the series. I'm still head scratching about how to relay this information. Numbering the mods themselves is . . . . . not practical. Furthermore, these mods are each so unique, they are very readily identifiable. They are more akin to human faces than they are to SS tube mods. The mod IS the identifying mark. (wrap your heads around that one!) :)

Nonetheless, I'm thinking about providing some kind of documentation as to mod #, date, purchaser. These can be mailed out after the fact, so, when I get it all figured, I'll do something about it. (where I'm stuck right now is; how to make the document "unforgeable". Perhaps just a handwritten signature would do the job?)

As long as I'm addressing old topics: Purpleheart is not hard on tools. Never said that. Sometimes, "repeating" what I almost said is more misleading than not saying anything.


Also,
GG: the buttons are gorgeous! Can't wait to see them!
 

pdib

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wouldn't it be easier to just drill the centre post from the top?
there is already a hole for the setscrew... so all you gotta do is find a bit that fits inside of it, and continue until you reach the other side...
a small hole or slit on the side of the post and you have yourself a bonafied bottom-fed atty....

Yeah, I prefer to drill-out in place. Only time that can vary is if I need to cross-drill for juice outlet on the deck, and I can't get at it in situ. On the drill press, I just drill a shallow (5/16? . . .3/8? diameter) hole in a piece of scrap plywood. Then the 510 sits in that, and the atty base rests on the plywood surface. I drill the recess in the plywood JUST deep enough. Any deeper and the post can get pressed out by the drill press and just start spinning instead of being drilled.
 

Copterstyle

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Sorry, I should specified this was already drilled for bottom feed, I was just looking to slot or drill at the base of the deck for better drainage. Whelp seems it was press fitted in there (or at least it wasn't going to un screw out). Broke out the hammer and the pin popped right out easily. I chose to slot at the base of the deck instead of drill cause i thought it would be easier. Here is the finished product...


It drains pretty dern well. Compared to the rm2 this drains 95% as well and totally fixes my over squonking problem. Thank you all for the help! You made this vaper very happy:D
 
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