PDIB's Making MODs!

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SkinyFatMan

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Actually, pdib said mine could be done full wood... and I asked for the richlite caps because I liked the contrast better:p.

Noooooooooooooooooo!!.... I mean, "I totally respect your decision to have your OliveR made the way you like".
:D
 

glassgal

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Noooooooooooooooooo!!.... I mean, "I totally respect your decision to have your OliveR made the way you like".
:D

LOL! Well, why don't you like your richlite caps as much??? You know, part of the reason I wanted the richlite was because I liked how YOURS turned out... :p
 

turbocad6

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I really like the look of the black caps with the natural woods, looks very classy. I was second guessing my desire for matching caps myself after seeing some of them, but I'm very happy with how mine turned out. I went with a black button instead of matching because I was trying to conserve wood to have the largest remaining piece possible for the dna extension but that actually turned out for the best on mine because the end grain of this koa is really black anyway so it winded up looking great :)


20140318_010114_zps5632272f.jpg
 

super_X_drifter

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Well I've never been much of a button masher so I really like the magnet attachment of the base.

I did have to remove it to push a battery out once. My AW IMRs fit nice and snug. I like it.

If screws were to be used, I'd also suggest keeping the magnets. Button mashing and screw stripping may go hand in hand :)
 

pdib

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well i've never been much of a button masher so i really like the magnet attachment of the base.

I did have to remove it to push a battery out once. My aw imrs fit nice and snug. I like it.

If screws were to be used, i'd also suggest keeping the magnets. button mashing and screw stripping may go hand in hand :)

wurd!!!!!!!!!!
 

pdib

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I cut a 1" strip from a business card and inserted that with the battery, all rattle problems solved and it's still not too tight to slide out easily enough, the strip of business card stays in the bore with battery swaps and completely eliminates any rattle, no orings necessary now.

I'm really glad to hear others are happy with it the way it is, I was trying to stress that I don't see this as a big "negative" or as a big flaw in the design and said it may just be me, just that my preferences would be a rock solid connection, and for a button masher it can be a bit finicky as-is. also I see it more problematic for me with the one screw tightened than no screw with the floating cap. personally I will replace the opposing magnet with a screw, I can get the battery out from the top no problem, if it winded up being a little snug that smacking it against my palm will surely eject the battery. with the slice of card stock though it slides in and out readily enough for me to not be a problem.

I am getting more used to the whole pinky thing too, but will still do the screw thing :D


I thought your points to be more than valid (supervalid?). That's why I asked everyone to chime in. The only thing that's clear to me is that I wasn't missing a single obvious preference, universal but for me.

When you pinky, think squeeze, not press. (like what they say with a trigger)
 

turbocad6

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I'm glad you took it that way and I was a little apprehensive to post it thinking my post might be taken as criticism or complaining or taken in a negative way which I really didn't want to come across that way. I am a little surprised most still prefer the magnets tbh but like I said, I never claimed to be normal, maybe most normal people like it the way it is I guess:p
 

glassgal

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Normal people don't mod their REO Grand into a GORGEOUS DNA20, design and implement a chambervolume controlling drip tip, or Mod a Woodie into a DNA 20 like it was designed to be that way . . ..

With a plan to make said mod into a fishtank too!
 

xpen

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You know what I don't like about the A7? -And take this with a big heaping of salt since I've never owned one- that juice feed means no drainage. If that could be cut down to the deck that would be awesome


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Fully possible, I've done that to all of my A7's
if you gently twist it by the posts, the inside of the base will unscrew: then you only need to unscrew the two posts and cut the air tube flush to the deck. A dremel cut wheel will suffice.

By the way, to stabilize the positive bottom screw just unscrew it out of the connector, put a very small oring (or plastic/rubber washer) around the screw and screw it back in.
Airflow won't be affected, but the screw will finally stay where it should have ;-)
 

glassgal

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I really like the look of the black caps with the natural woods, looks very classy. I was second guessing my desire for matching caps myself after seeing some of them, but I'm very happy with how mine turned out. I went with a black button instead of matching because I was trying to conserve wood to have the largest remaining piece possible for the dna extension but that actually turned out for the best on mine because the end grain of this koa is really black anyway so it winded up looking great :)

20140318_010114_zps5632272f.jpg

Ok... wait a minute... the top on yours is richlite, but the ends are tigerwood?? how... ?
 

glassgal

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Fully possible, I've done that to all of my A7's
if you gently twist it by the posts, the inside of the base will unscrew: then you only need to unscrew the two posts and cut the air tube flush to the deck. A dremel cut wheel will suffice.

By the way, to stabilize the positive bottom screw just unscrew it out of the connector, put a very small oring (or plastic/rubber washer) around the screw and screw it back in.
Airflow won't be affected, but the screw will finally stay where it should have ;-)

Thanks for piping in:)!!! Mine draws fine too with the squonker, just can't vape while squonking (but who pushes the fire button at the same time as squonking anyway?). Thanks for the O-ring tip:). If you like the A-7, you'll like the new one I've got even better:)!
 

glassgal

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caps Koa, button richlite

Sooooo.... how is the top the same color as the button??? Or is that just the photo? Or did you make the top the same wood, then sharpie pen/painted/stained in the top to match the button?? That looks great:)! Could mine be done that way too or too late:)?
 

timk

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Thanks for piping in:)!!! Mine draws fine too with the squonker, just can't vape while squonking (but who pushes the fire button at the same time as squonking anyway?). Thanks for the O-ring tip:). If you like the A-7, you'll like the new one I've got even better:)!

I have squonked and vaped at the same time a few times. Like when I'm takin a vape and notice/think/taste/feel I didn't squonk enough I'll give it a squeeze mid draw just to make sure. Gotta be careful because you can really flood it though haha prob not recommended.
 

timk

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Thanks for piping in:)!!! Mine draws fine too with the squonker, just can't vape while squonking (but who pushes the fire button at the same time as squonking anyway?). Thanks for the O-ring tip:). If you like the A-7, you'll like the new one I've got even better:)!

maybe because it's end grain? which usually is darker when wet. on the burls, may not see it as much or at all.
 

glassgal

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Well, the way the A7 is configured, I use it for the microstick, which it seems designed for! (or the other way around). For bottom feeders, there's a couple of modification ideas. I'm working on a cheapie, and I think Val Heli is working on a custom high end one.

Hey... someone posted something nifty that might work to fill in battery movement? Judging by the review, it doesn't seem to work too well as an actual fuse... :)

The Fuse
 

Alexander Mundy

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Re screw, magnet, richlite:

I now keep the screw in place since I am a natural born klutz and have dropped my dibi many times. This keeps the richlite base on to prevent damage to the wood. I became concerned that with my propensity to sling it about I would break off the area below the squonk hole. The 1 screw is enough for this sort of application, and I am fine with it as is with 2 magnets & 1 screw.

Re 510 connector:

I haven't even checked mine without an o-ring under the atty, so I'm not going to since it looks fine.

Re battery rattle:

The SX30's are snug enough I sometimes have to give it a little pop into my other hand to get them out but have never had to push out from the other side. The AW's are loose, but not horrible and for me the 2nd largest o-ring works perfect. The LG is in between them diameter wise, but the length required taking a flat ....... file to a metric o-ring from the hardware store and Bob's your Uncle.

Edit ^^^^^^apparently the automatic curse word thingie doesn't like the proper name of a file with teeth between rough and course.

Re the LG ICR18650HE2:

Yesterday was a strange day where I vaped heavy till lunch then had to work where the conditions weren't conducive to vaping but a couple of toots every 1/2 hour or so. It wasn't a good test, but I didn't charge it last night and it lasted till lunch today when it seemed to drop off fairly fast (within a 1/2 hour or so till I changed it out) so I bet it will go most all if not all day on a vape heavy day. I charged it in the truck but want to wait till tomorrow to give it a fresh start in the morning and hopefully tomorrow will be a more normal or maybe heavy day toot wise. For comparison, on a vape heavy day I was changing out the AW's at lunch because I knew they would drop off in the afternoon while working and I would change out the SX30's after dinner (supper to some).

Re number of posts since lunch:

I already put my settings to 20 posts per page and look like I need to increase that!

Re monkey:

Hi monkey! Good to hear from you. I remember the gorilla suit video and look forward to another one that makes me wonder if you lost it or not (sanity not suit). Stay safe in Bedrock.
 
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