Actually, pdib said mine could be done full wood... and I asked for the richlite caps because I liked the contrast better.
Noooooooooooooooooo!!.... I mean, "I totally respect your decision to have your OliveR made the way you like".
Actually, pdib said mine could be done full wood... and I asked for the richlite caps because I liked the contrast better.
Noooooooooooooooooo!!.... I mean, "I totally respect your decision to have your OliveR made the way you like".
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well i've never been much of a button masher so i really like the magnet attachment of the base.
I did have to remove it to push a battery out once. My aw imrs fit nice and snug. I like it.
If screws were to be used, i'd also suggest keeping the magnets. button mashing and screw stripping may go hand in hand![]()
I cut a 1" strip from a business card and inserted that with the battery, all rattle problems solved and it's still not too tight to slide out easily enough, the strip of business card stays in the bore with battery swaps and completely eliminates any rattle, no orings necessary now.
I'm really glad to hear others are happy with it the way it is, I was trying to stress that I don't see this as a big "negative" or as a big flaw in the design and said it may just be me, just that my preferences would be a rock solid connection, and for a button masher it can be a bit finicky as-is. also I see it more problematic for me with the one screw tightened than no screw with the floating cap. personally I will replace the opposing magnet with a screw, I can get the battery out from the top no problem, if it winded up being a little snug that smacking it against my palm will surely eject the battery. with the slice of card stock though it slides in and out readily enough for me to not be a problem.
I am getting more used to the whole pinky thing too, but will still do the screw thing![]()
Normal people don't mod their REO Grand into a GORGEOUS DNA20, design and implement a chambervolume controlling drip tip, or Mod a Woodie into a DNA 20 like it was designed to be that way . . ..
You know what I don't like about the A7? -And take this with a big heaping of salt since I've never owned one- that juice feed means no drainage. If that could be cut down to the deck that would be awesome
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I really like the look of the black caps with the natural woods, looks very classy. I was second guessing my desire for matching caps myself after seeing some of them, but I'm very happy with how mine turned out. I went with a black button instead of matching because I was trying to conserve wood to have the largest remaining piece possible for the dna extension but that actually turned out for the best on mine because the end grain of this koa is really black anyway so it winded up looking great
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Fully possible, I've done that to all of my A7's
if you gently twist it by the posts, the inside of the base will unscrew: then you only need to unscrew the two posts and cut the air tube flush to the deck. A dremel cut wheel will suffice.
By the way, to stabilize the positive bottom screw just unscrew it out of the connector, put a very small oring (or plastic/rubber washer) around the screw and screw it back in.
Airflow won't be affected, but the screw will finally stay where it should have ;-)
Ok... wait a minute... the top on yours is richlite, but the ends are tigerwood?? how... ?
caps Koa, button richlite
Thanks for piping in!!! Mine draws fine too with the squonker, just can't vape while squonking (but who pushes the fire button at the same time as squonking anyway?). Thanks for the O-ring tip
. If you like the A-7, you'll like the new one I've got even better
!
Thanks for piping in!!! Mine draws fine too with the squonker, just can't vape while squonking (but who pushes the fire button at the same time as squonking anyway?). Thanks for the O-ring tip
. If you like the A-7, you'll like the new one I've got even better
!