PDIB's Making MODs!

[pdib]

it's whether the stem makes contact with the edge of the hole in the grounding plate that completes the circuit.


I wouldn't care about replacing gaskets. It would be worth it, I think.

 

[glassgal]

Was just thinking that the niftiest and most ingeniously designed button for a mod I own is on my E-pipe.

It's a round button with a hole in the middle for a magnet. Hole has a spring behind it, with a brass cover over the spring so the spring can't ever fall out (it's fitted from the top of the button). The magnet fits inside the hole, over the brass plate at the bottom of the button. The magnet is a little supermagnet, and about 5mm in diameter.

The magnet is firmly stuck in the hole due to magnetism, and it also sticks to the top of the battery on the other side. You pop the battery into the mod, then stick the top w/ stuck on magnet over the battery, it sticks to the battery and can't go anywhere, and you press to make connection. Very marvelous way of doing it, can't ever lose anything. To change battery, you slap the top against your hand, and it pops out with battery attached, peel off battery, put another in hole, and pop top back on.

 

[pdib]

biggest issue is; what holds the contact centered on the battery? The lower insulator/gasket would have to be the same size as the battery tube, centering the post (same as the top does)

 

[glassgal]

it's whether the stem makes contact with the edge of the hole in the grounding plate that completes the circuit.


I wouldn't care about replacing gaskets. It would be worth it, I think.

OH, I see! The aluminum protrusions!!! So you are literally rocking to touch the negative directly! And you can get a gasket that could be pushed on the aluminum just a bit smaller... ahh... can use something like these things, but maybe shallower, to level the hole and still have flex room:

Still, not sure how smooth that would be in motion compared to a button that bounces on a spring...

 

[MasterofNone]

Dibi 2.0- The Magnet mod. All magnets all the time!


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[pdib]

lateral motion / rocking would be more fluid (hence the risk of pocket firing). The main point is that we wouldn't have to rely on a spring to carry the current. Direct contact (without a spring bridge) would enhance performance substantially.

A spring has to be thin gauge, by it's nature, constricting the current and creating a binding point in the flow.






btw: X-puppy and I were talking about this the other day. So, Pups, I'll race ya'!

 

[glassgal]

biggest issue is; what holds the contact centered on the battery? The lower insulator/gasket would have to be the same size as the battery tube, centering the post (same as the top does)

The spring is mounted from the top (because the bottom hole is too small). You have an aluminum ring (20mm diameter), within that aluminum ring is a stainless steel ring (10mm), flush mounted to the aluminum ring. This is what is visible from the top.

From the bottom, you see a 5mm steel magnet in an aluminum circle (the underside of above aluminum ring). If you pick out the magnet with great difficulty, under the magnet is a brass plate. The brass plate is BEHIND the aluminum, and is probably 10mm in diameter (same as the stainless steel top), with a spring behind it.

So basically, you have an aluminum torque, with a 10mm opening at the top, a 5mm opening below. From here, my surmise:
10mm brass plate goes in 10mm opening, spring goes on top of that, steel cap goes on top of the spring, epoxied in.

Brass plate snug against the 5mm hole w/ no wiggle room, the 5 mm magnet sits snugly in the thin aluminum hole (1mm). To use, press the top, which forces the magnet into the hole, which is held by the spring, which makes contact with the top stainless or whatever metal epoxied into the top 10mm hole.... which makes negative contact, which completes the circuit. See? Easy, elegant, and interesting.

 

[e30ernest]

Looking at my Vanilla's switch, it does seem like the primary contact flow is the stem. There is some wiggle room in the switch and I haven't noticed any binding. Maybe this photo will help give you ideas?

I'm guessing how this works, but I don't think the stem and the bore would need to be 100% in contact with each other all the time. A small amount of play could work since any human pressing on the button won't do it 100% vertically. That's how this probably works. The bore is just big enough to avoid binding but small enough that the smallest deviation while pressing the button would make it contact the sides.

Or am I wrong? It's 5:08am, I should be sleeping...

 

[glassgal]

Here's what I'm talking about too. Pipe top w/ battery:

Battery stuck to top:

Just the top:

Top w/ strong magnet removed:

Underside with battery in there:

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Someone . . . . .. someone considerate and wiser than I . . . . .. I won't say whom (he's welcome to confess himself) . . .. suggested that it might be a good time to reiterate that I'm offering an "intermediate user's" device here. A "modder's mod", if you will. It does presume that one know something about simple electrical currents, screw-and-nut mechanics, and can troubleshoot a little. My friend was concerned that, with many pretty pictures circulating, it might get lost that this isn't meant to be a zero maintenance, plug-and-play, mindless experience.

So, I'm mentioning it.

And thanks for the reminder, mysterious personage.

One of the reason I love this mod.


For the spring your idea of a plate over the spring might be the easiest to execute, something like this.

 

[timk]

Glasgal: looks like the magnet is carrying the current?

I have vaporized those little magnets before messing around with low ohm dual coils on a Sony VTC4 battery. I don't think they are the best conductor.

Not to rip off the Reos, but pushing a BeCu leaf into the battery seems fairly efficient and simple. Could make it a consumeable item that slips into the aluminum ground plate with a set screw on the bottom. Just tossing out ideas. From one of the first few posts in this thread where you had .3v loss on .4 ohm build; how big of an issue is this? Fun to brainstorm though.

 

[glassgal]

I have a dumb question.... why can't you buy a $1 switch like Rob uses on the Woodvil ?

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Then it wouldn't be mechanical and you'd be limited to the amps the switch can take before the contacts inside it melt.

 

[milkman5306]

Okay, okay. I'll take it out and about with me. But it will NOT go on any fishing trips! I already lost one mod off the tower (fortunately, it was just a VAMO). And I got drenched one night when we took a wave over the bow and into the cockpit. This mod will never touch the ocean.

Besides, who wants fish slime on their wood?

I agree, fishing and hunting are off limits. I have three cell phones and two vmods at the bottom of the lake and have lost a vmod in 2 foot of snow while deer hunting (dropped it from 20 foot up a tree). By the time the snow melted I was back home 200 miles away and a vmod is not worth 400 mile round trip just to go look for it.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 2

 

[glassgal]

I like this one with a built in light?

 

[milkman5306]

Someone . . . . .. someone considerate and wiser than I . . . . .. I won't say whom (he's welcome to confess himself) . . .. suggested that it might be a good time to reiterate that I'm offering an "intermediate user's" device here. A "modder's mod", if you will. It does presume that one know something about simple electrical currents, screw-and-nut mechanics, and can troubleshoot a little. My friend was concerned that, with many pretty pictures circulating, it might get lost that this isn't meant to be a zero maintenance, plug-and-play, mindless experience.

So, I'm mentioning it.

And thanks for the reminder, mysterious personage.

The only problem is there is no reason to mod this. You thought of everything, why mod something that works perfect for every situation and at the same time is so damn comfortable in the hand and easy on the eyes?
I get that we have a become used to " having" to mod everything we have had before this and not modding is a mental flaw but damn, load it, vape it, and mod something that needs it!

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[Filthy-Beast]

I agree, fishing and hunting are off limits. I have three cell phones and two vmods at the bottom of the lake and have lost a vmod in 2 foot of snow while deer hunting (dropped it from 20 foot up a tree). By the time the snow melted I was back home 200 miles away and a vmod is not worth 400 mile round trip just to go look for it.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S4 using Tapatalk 2

Yeap for off-roading or grease monkey work it will be metal BF mods only. Light camping I'll probably take it.

 

[dwcraig1]

My thoughts for "zeroing out" the voltage drop on my Rio Grand spring involved placing a braided piece of cooper inside the spring top to bottom similar to how brushes are done on an automotive alternator and some other brush style motors.
I never got around to it though.

 

[glassgal]

Glasgal: looks like the magnet is carrying the current?

I have vaporized those little magnets before messing around with low ohm dual coils on a Sony VTC4 battery. I don't think they are the best conductor.

Not to rip off the Reos, but pushing a BeCu leaf into the battery seems fairly efficient and simple. Could make it a consumeable item that slips into the aluminum ground plate with a set screw on the bottom. Just tossing out ideas. From one of the first few posts in this thread where you had .3v loss on .4 ohm build; how big of an issue is this? Fun to brainstorm though.

Hrm. Yah... the magnet would have to carry some current... I thought the top was stainless, but it's not... no idea what it is, it's not brass either... the underside looks brassy (under the magnet). You don't have to use the magnet in a Dibi tho... can just solder a brass/copper round to the brass/copper plate underneath. There's no reason it has to be removable, a pipe has only 1 opening, a Dibi has 2.

If I were doing the adapting, in lieu of the aluminum 1/2 round, I'd use a hollow threaded tube that can just screw in the hole, with a smaller hole in the bottom than the top. Then put something very conductive for the top and bottom with a spring between. Pretty easy if you could size the part, and very elegant solution.

**keeping in mind that I have no idea what I'm talking bout for the electrical part of course, just the design simplicity part.

 

[timk]

That switch is nifty. What epipe is that glasgal?

I think we just need to hold on the coil leads and touch them to the battery manually lol use a straw to suck of the vapors haha i kid i kid

The copper braid sounds interesting as well.