PDIB's Making MODs!
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I think Rhodium would be a better plating for silver contacts than Gold. It's more durable at the very least. For audiophiles, they prefer rhodium-plated silver over gold-plated copper plugs for audio jacks.
ha, me and you both playing with copper today
main reason I went from aluminum to brass is because as a make break contact I think brass is better than aluminum. I know aluminum conducts electricity better but here the contact resistance of the joint is very much greater than the bulk resistance of the metal itself, and why the contact resistance is more dependent on the force between the contacts and the condition of the surface, than on the size of the contacts. aluminum oxidizes immediately and forms a non conductive shell as it oxidizes where brass usually has a lead film that blocks electron flow less and just works longer between cleanings I think. neither is really great here but brass screws are cheap and easy to get. brass is copper and zinc and I think is a better contact than aluminum at the make break point. ideally copper would be best though, silver gold or rhodium plated copper even better
because of the small number of spots making contact, and their limited size, the current density in the spots is large compared with the current flowing in the circuit, and this influences the behavior of the contacts with respect to temperature rise, erosion, welding as well as contact resistance. there's a lot of good contact info here : http://www.copperinfo.co.uk/electrical/downloads/tn-23-copper-in-electrical-contacts.pdf
I didn't have any copper wiring or copper screws or anything copper at all so while my wife shopped at target I ran into lowes and got a few feet of the heaviest copper wire they had, I think it is #4? they had no copper # 8 screws anywhere to be found so I used this wire to make a center contactor. I ground it down a bit in diameter then threaded it #8 thread, then found a tight fitting #6 washer and filed it to fit snug, then I hammered the face to mushroom the head a bit. had to do this because the wire is thin enough to fit through the hole so I needed a bigger head. works awesome
def want to make a copper upper button seat too, aluminum to copper will eventually build up galvanic corrosion, not sure if nolox helps deter that or not? I really want to make my whole button from copper. I requested a spare piece of copper with my mod to make a button from it when I first ordered the mod actually
I want to use this wire to run up as the center shaft too, but I wasn't considering threading it into a replacement shaft like you did. I was more thinking of drilling the center threads out of the body of the mod and having the center pole attach to the base before it is inserted. make the center shaft and the battery contact one solid piece.still quick release with the magnets but the base will be much more stable being pinned like this and it would eliminate that lower contact point completely.
now I just want to say that the things I'm doing or the things mundy is doing are not things that are necessary.
the dibi is like buying a factory hot rod. it has all the key ingredients of a high performance machine and it is a high performance machine out of the box but it is built for a wide range of user types, so safety and wide range of usability with a wide range of batteries for a wide range of user setus all dictate the factory issue design.
it's like buying a factory buick grand national or twin turbo supra. it is a base performance machine right out of the showroom that any average person could still use as an average daily driver, but it also has a lot of things that can be better tuned for performance and it has a whole lot more potential with just a little tweaking and tuning
seriously this thing really is a hot rod though. with this whole copper guts upgrade it should compete with the best of the best on every level. any thoughts of dna modding I had for this thing are out for me right now because of the incredible potential of this mod to be a really epic mech. I love my dnas but can still appreciate a good mech. the design is super performance oriented and with a few little tweaks here and there it's got the potential to be a monster
I've wanted to play around with a silver and gold plating setup for a while now, that would wind up being the icing on the cake on this mod, upgrading to full copper guts, and then silver plating everything including the ground plate and the button. that would be the equivalent of chroming out the engine compartment I guess
when you think about it, nothing out there compares to the dibi yet, it's like the 53 corvette, or the 64 mustang, the first in a generation of high performance bottom feeders that are sure to come as more and more vapers start to really learn whats up
I don't know why you're putting in all this time and effort, when all you need is one of these: Master ecig repair tool - $19.99 | DFWvapor.com, The Best US E-Liquid Made!
T-cad, I did a little looking into the galvanic corrosion business before pairing the aluminum and copper. Couldn't find any reason why it would be an issue without seawater involved. The only thing I could find was where Canadian Electrical Utilities had to bolt them together in a special fashion because they expand and contract at different rates.
. . .. and I did send you extra copper. I told you that was the only shape I had.
. . .. and I did send you extra copper. I told you that was the only shape I had.
yeah making everything from silver would be ideal but I wouldn't even know where to buy silver material stock to build it from and the cost might get astronomical
T-cad, I did a little looking into the galvanic corrosion business before pairing the aluminum and copper. Couldn't find any reason why it would be an issue without seawater involved. The only thing I could find was where Canadian Electrical Utilities had to bolt them together in a special fashion because they expand and contract at different rates.
. . .. and I did send you extra copper. I told you that was the only shape I had.
yeah I don't know much about the galvanic corrosion really just read that could be an issue. I know you sent me the copper plate, I was just saying that's why I requested it, I knew I wanted a copper button even before playing around under the hood
BTW: T-cad, Mundy, I'll share an idea I had a while back with you two, since your parallel to it. Take a length of copper wire (pro'ly 12g). Bend an L shape in it. Flatten the end of the short leg. Mount it under the big contact screw. Remove the small contact screw altogether. When you place the bottom cap on the mod, the longer leg runs up the center. Trim to a length that handily meets the BeCu leaf contact (with some pressure). Bang. (also, one could flatten a bit longer length of that short leg, drill a hole in it for the big contact screw to capture it, and fold/wrap the tail back up around the head of the big contact screw)
Everyone else. This completely eliminates the fuse (the sole safety element) from the circuit. You would instantly and forever blow your face off. DON'T DO IT!
Everyone else. This completely eliminates the fuse (the sole safety element) from the circuit. You would instantly and forever blow your face off. DON'T DO IT!
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yeah I don't know much about the galvanic corrosion really just read that could be an issue. I know you sent me the copper plate, I was just saying that's why I requested it, I knew I wanted a copper button even before playing around under the hood
ok.
that's better. . . .. painting me up like some kind of monster. . . . .
yeah making everything from silver would be ideal but I wouldn't even know where to buy silver material stock to build it from and the cost might get astronomical
Haha yeah I know. I just threw it in there in case someone with deep pockets decides to try it out.
So are any of the experiments that are done by turbo or Mundy will be standard in future OliveR, or pdib you would prefer to leave these as a choice to mod or not? I am just asking to know whether I should stock up on some of the things mentioned here or not. A .05V mod drop with a fuse on .7 ohms is not human!! Kudos to the guys! (pdib included )
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I don't intend to make these modifications standard. That's for y'all to play with. Don't forget, with a better spring (which I just purchased s'more of), this thing hits pretty durn hard right out of the box. I still have to fabricate these in a way that befits a normal vaping human, and doesn't leave me smelting ore with the seven dwarves. (custom threading 3" lengths of copper and hoping y'all don't look at it sideways .. .. .. it's soft stuff. . . . . .hand peening little copper screws out of copper wire and threading them .. . . hah!)
pretty much about what I'm doing but I'm going to drill a hole in the short leg for the big screw to go throuh instead of just tucking it under the screw. I already flattened this #4? to a flat pad and bent it in an L, it works fine for this but I gotta bore out the threaded passage to use it
12 gauge will carry 120V . .. . and it's easier. (even 10g will fit nicely at 2.6mm)
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These characters are leaving me like 'at →
I really did set out to make a mod that could be readily tweaked and modded. A canvas for the serious vaping tinkerer (errrr.... tinkering vaper? .. . . . modder!). I'm so glad it's kin'a working out that way.
I really did set out to make a mod that could be readily tweaked and modded. A canvas for the serious vaping tinkerer (errrr.... tinkering vaper? .. . . . modder!). I'm so glad it's kin'a working out that way.
yeah, I was just playing with what I have I guess and this stuff makes a nice broad substantial flat pad when flattened and still is strong even at the 90* bend, thinner gauge may be weak around the hole for the screw to the base and weak at the 90. I can reduce the diameter of the vertical shaft part depending on the bore size I wind up with if I need to but the base bend and mounting pad is nice from this heaver gauge
Kooky kids, lost me about the time Mundy walked in to Lowes, cuz I saw that stainless steel grill with the built in wet bar and got distracted. Sorry
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Just sub contract the parts out to t-cad and Mr. Mundy LOL.
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yeah making everything from silver would be ideal but I wouldn't even know where to buy silver material stock to build it from and the cost might get astronomical
Have you looked into the Caswell brush kits? They say you can do small tank plating with the brush kits too. The silver kit seems reasonable, but the rhodium pen thing is almost 200 bucks. ouch
Plug N' Plate® Silver Plating Kit - Caswell Inc
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Have you looked into the Caswell brush kits? They say you can do small tank plating with the brush kits too. The silver kit seems reasonable, but the rhodium pen thing is almost 200 bucks. ouch
Plug N' Plate® Silver Plating Kit - Caswell Inc
I use brush plating kit from a UK seller. Same thing. It worked really well with gold as in shine and color. With brass plating it was a disaster bit my fault I failed to activate the SS well. Now with brush plating the problem is that it doesn't last long if used daily. The gold one started to disappear after few months but that with only one layer. I guess if you know what you're doing you get great results. The color and shine is pure mirror gold (of course depends on the polish of underlying finish)
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