PDIB's Making MODs!

[timk]

I use brush plating kit from a UK seller. Same thing. It worked really well with gold as in shine and color. With brass plating it was a disaster bit my fault I failed to activate the SS well. Now with brush plating the problem is that it doesn't last long if used daily. The gold one started to disappear after few months but that with only one layer. I guess if you know what you're doing you get great results. The color and shine is pure mirror gold (of course depends on the polish of underlying finish)

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aesthetics are not important to me, just want the extra electrons lol thanks for the input!

 

[Alexander Mundy]

12 gauge will carry 120V . .. . and it's easier. (even 10g will fit nicely at 2.6mm)

12 gauge will carry a million volts no problem , it's the resistance that is determined by the gauge and hence the amperage also. The voltage rating is determined by the insulation. I tried a piece of bare 10 gauge which drops right in the threaded hole, but didn't have as good a results as the threaded 6 gauge. (Although that could have been because I didn't have as much tension against the bottom contact with it floating in the hole)

 

[Alexander Mundy]

BTW: T-cad, Mundy, I'll share an idea I had a while back with you two, since your parallel to it. Take a length of copper wire (pro'ly 12g). Bend an L shape in it. Flatten the end of the short leg. Mount it under the big contact screw. Remove the small contact screw altogether. When you place the bottom cap on the mod, the longer leg runs up the center. Trim to a length that handily meets the BeCu leaf contact (with some pressure). Bang. (also, one could flatten a bit longer length of that short leg, drill a hole in it for the big contact screw to capture it, and fold/wrap the tail back up around the head of the big contact screw)

Everyone else. This completely eliminates the fuse (the sole safety element) from the circuit. You would instantly and forever blow your face off. DON'T DO IT!

I like the Idea of the fuse well enough to put up with that .04V loss.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

yeah I don't know much about the galvanic corrosion really just read that could be an issue. I know you sent me the copper plate, I was just saying that's why I requested it, I knew I wanted a copper button even before playing around under the hood

There has to be an electrolyte of some form in contact with them for galvanic corrosion to happen so keep the contact area coated with something like Noalox and it shouldn't be a problem unless you use it in a high humidity setting for a protracted length of time.

 

[pdib]

and no gatorade!


. . .. . even if it's crying out with a thirst that must be quenched.

 

[pdib]

I guess I was thinking more in general terms and hypothetically. If one were wanting to try substituting a copper wire "L", it may be better to start with 10g, with some good solid connections at the contact points, than to drill out the threading in the spine of the mod. Easier, less risk of damage, less of a permanent commitment. However, I defer to you as to whether 10g would be fat enough to carry the amperage optimally.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

yeah making everything from silver would be ideal but I wouldn't even know where to buy silver material stock to build it from and the cost might get astronomical

Pure silver would be too soft and sterling silver has less conductivity than copper.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I guess I was thinking more in general terms and hypothetically. If one were wanting to try substituting a copper wire "L", it may be better to start with 10g, with some good solid connections at the contact points, than to drill out the threading in the spine of the mod. Easier, less risk of damage, less of a permanent commitment. However, I defer to you as to whether 10g would be fat enough to carry the amperage optimally.

It is probably the bottom contact point didn't have enough force just floating in the bore. 7 gauge (probably what I ended up with after cutting the threads in 6 gauge) has 1/2 the resistance of #10, but at these amperage's it would only amount to about .001V difference if my calculating skill are working today. I might think about drilling out the threads in the body and just tapping the end to take place of the bottom contact point if it starts being a problem point in a short amount of time. In that case I will get a BeCu rod to thread the end since it is harder (since the copper threads are really soft). Else, I am happy with the screw in the bottom and changing the battery from up top.

I was being a smart .... with the million volts

 

[timk]

when you think about it, nothing out there compares to the dibi yet, it's like the 53 corvette, or the 64 mustang, the first in a generation of high performance bottom feeders that are sure to come as more and more vapers start to really learn whats up

What's odd to me is all the cloud chaser types use drippers. Sooo why not put the juice jug in the mod? bottom dripper lol

If I could ever figure out how to get my DIY Cinnamon Roll to taste as good as it does on a genny, I wouldn't use anything else.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

I don't know why you're putting in all this time and effort, when all you need is one of these: Master ecig repair tool - $19.99 | DFWvapor.com, The Best US E-Liquid Made!

Good one! Can also be used as a lockpick with proper shaping, a rubber band "holder together", and a host of other uses.

 

[Rossum]

yeah making everything from silver would be ideal

I haven't followed this discussion all that closely, but I suspect that there's very little to be gained by improving the conductivity of the materials, because just eyballing the pictures, all the conductors look to have plenty of cross-sectional area. If you determine the total resistance between the battery and the atty (and ignore the fuse) I bet most of it is at the interfaces between the pieces of conductive materials; in other words, the various "contacts". Silver has the best bulk conductivity, but there are a number of reasons why it's not optimal for contacts.

 

[e30ernest]

What's odd to me is all the cloud chaser types use drippers. Sooo why not put the juice jug in the mod? bottom dripper lol

If I could ever figure out how to get my DIY Cinnamon Roll to taste as good as it does on a genny, I wouldn't use anything else.

I think its because the tube mods currently have the lowest voltage drops at the lowest prices. Tube mods are less complicated so they cost less to produce afterall even with more expensive contacts. My Vanilla mod is cheaper than the Reo but it always hits noticeably harder with the same coils for instance due to its copper contacts. I'm not a cloud chaser but I do appreciate the extra warmth and flavor that gives to my vape.

A bottom-fed mod with good contacts (like the Dibi and the upcoming Reo contacts) should perform just as well, but at a higher premium than some of these mods. Now if (or when) we start getting cheap clones (I hope not for the sake of the mod builders) then bottom feeders will probably get more popular.

As for using drippers, maybe it's because these attys are easier to build with wild coil configurations compared to tanks?

I love the botton-fed systems but I also still keep a tube mod with me. Tube mods are just easier when it comes to swapping juice flavors than bottom-fed mods. All I have to do is remove the wick, dry fire then put in a new wick. Sometimes, I do not even have to change wicks to change flavors. Bottom-fed mods require you to swap bottles, flush the feed tubes then swap wicks for a proper flavor change. Some bottles also tend to soak-in juice flavors so it you might have to carry an extra bottle. The same goes for the feed tube.

The Reo is still my primary vape tool. It's just too convenient to carry around and use when compared to my Vanilla (tube mod). But with the pros and cons of either, I find both have great use cases to make me want to keep both.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Heres my chalice build video.

Micro Coil In Mark Bugs Chalice Tutorial - YouTube

I use my OliveR to set it up

 

[hildicat]

Heres my chalice build video.

Micro Coil In Mark Bugs Chalice Tutorial - YouTube

I use my OliveR to set it up

Another great vid Russ, but I have to admit, mounting that 'Z' coil sure looks like a major PITA! I certainly don't miss that aspect of the Chalice...

 

[Xobeloot]

My mandatory daily check-in for Mr. Dibby.

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[super_X_drifter]

Thank you Joe Gato

You can't tell me these don't look bad AYuss though

 

[timk]

Heres my chalice build video.

Micro Coil In Mark Bugs Chalice Tutorial - YouTube

I use my OliveR to set it up

Very nice video super_x!

I'm kinda glad I missed out. Some of those features would frustrate the heck out of me. Super nice looking atty though.

 

[turbocad6]

What's odd to me is all the cloud chaser types use drippers. Sooo why not put the juice jug in the mod? bottom dripper lol

If I could ever figure out how to get my DIY Cinnamon Roll to taste as good as it does on a genny, I wouldn't use anything else.

that's because up until now no bottom feeder was ever built to handle really high amperage. drippers with really big cloud high draw setups can't do bottom feeders until now really

I haven't followed this discussion all that closely, but I suspect that there's very little to be gained by improving the conductivity of the materials, because just eyballing the pictures, all the conductors look to have plenty of cross-sectional area. If you determine the total resistance between the battery and the atty (and ignore the fuse) I bet most of it is at the interfaces between the pieces of conductive materials; in other words, the various "contacts". Silver has the best bulk conductivity, but there are a number of reasons why it's not optimal for contacts.

I agree, I think too many make such a big deal about material conductivity where in reality that only comes into play when the mass is minimal. example, if you wanted to try and dead short a car battery to failure and you had a 14 gauge becu wire and a #4 aluminum wire, which would you choose? of course becu conducts better but the much heavier gauge aluminum would ultimately allow way more current flow because of the amount of additional mass. all these guys running around with full copper mods thinking they hit harder are really buying into a hype and misinformation I think, the mod wouldn't be the limiting factor, the contacts would.

I think of it as a highway and the electrons are the traffic, the material determines how many lanes of traffic can flow, so brass may only be a 4 lane highway, aluminum may = an 8 lane highway where becu may be 14, but how much difference do you think this makes when there is a toll booth at each end of the highway that only allows 2 vehicles to pass at a time? the toll booth is the contacts, a circuit is only as good as it's weakest link. yes resistance is cumulative but the limits wind up being at whatever the weakest link is, and the contacts are going to be it every time, especially a make break at the battery itself.

 

[IMEDICx90]

What does everyone think about the brass monkee on top? I might try and drill this sucker for a bf.......

 

[Xobeloot]

Love the satin finish chalice. Makes me wish I had nabbed one. It's ok though. I am getting a TON of use out of the one I have. It will be the crown jewel atop my ancient woody!

My woodvil should be here soon to satisfy me until the ancient orangutan arrives.

Already awaiting some nice carbon inlay tips from Brian (DTD) to finish the 2 mods in style.


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