PDIB's Making MODs!

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glassgal

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Take a look at the little bitty gold looking spring loaded contact in this picture on the left side by the big blue thing. That has to touch ground for it to work. In the tube mod it does since the tube is ground, but in a wood or non tube mod not so much. BTW, always put the battery in with the negative side down away from the module (you should anyway for other safety reasons in a metal tube) or it might let the magic smoke out.

kts2b_zpsfdd431df.png

AHAA!! No wonder!!! The 'lousy vape' was fumes from last vape still in the atomizer cap! LOLOL!

Question... if I inserted a metal plate (say a sheet of silver or copper) in the back of the mod, to bend and touch the negative metal part below the spring, wouldn't that be sufficient grounding?
 

glassgal

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Me personally? I'm experimenting with having a handful on my vape bench, swapping out when I feel like it (20 sec. during battery swap), and throwing the "used" ones in a little dish. Then, when they've accumulated, tossing them all into the Pickle (2pts Vinegar, 1pt Hydrogen Peroxide) for 10 min. and then calling them resurrected.

Was just going to say... vinegar on q-tip. your hydrogen peroxide has likely turned to water and is diluting your vinegar about now:p.
 

glassgal

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yes - or you could solder a wire to the kick pin and run that to the bottom of the mod. Copper or brass shim i have seen used in wooden mods.

The kick2 has 2 metal spring loaded pins, so it might make an even better connection to metal mods. PBusardo has a video on them.

T

Would silver or gold leaf be thick enough to make a connection? How many electrons thick does a connector have to be to run electrons through it?

Don't want to solder anything to my kick, because it's for my other mod... just want to stick a conductor on the back wall of the wood to run to the bottom negative so I can pop kicks in and out:).
 

glassgal

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Would silver or gold leaf be thick enough to make a connection? How many electrons thick does a connector have to be to run electrons through it?

Wide enough for one electron or 2.81777x10-13 cm.

T
so that's a yes

Ahh...great! That might solve the tarnish silver problem too for those with a bit of time, to burnish gold leaf on the silver connector:)
 

pdib

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just an observation . .. . by the time one does just the key punches to order a silver plating kit, I will have rejuvenated another year's supply of little brass contact screws. By the time another opens the package of gold leaf and blows a sheet onto an application stick . . . . year #2.
 
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Alexander Mundy

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AHAA!! No wonder!!! The 'lousy vape' was fumes from last vape still in the atomizer cap! LOLOL!

Question... if I inserted a metal plate (say a sheet of silver or copper) in the back of the mod, to bend and touch the negative metal part below the spring, wouldn't that be sufficient grounding?

Short answer: Only one way to find out. :2cool:

Long answer: The output of that module should be negative and the partially filtered current input and output pulses will be 180 degrees out of phase if it is a conventional buck-boost topology so it needs a good ground connection for current flow not only to the battery but also to the atomizer. I do not know how efficient the module is or how good the filtering is to even attempt to calculate how much the opposing currents will cancel each other out in a common ground pathway. :p
 

timk

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just an observation . .. . by the time one does just the key punches to order a silver plating kit, I will have rejuvenated another year's supply of little brass contact screws. By the time another opens the package of gold leaf and blows a sheet onto an applications stick . . . . year #2.

Sounds like I should just try what you have engineered first... Hmm, I really wanted some more poison in the house too lol. Would a quick bath in ethanol in a ultrasonic cleaner work on the brass screws? Already do that with attys between flavors.
 

glassgal

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Short answer: Only one way to find out. :2cool:

Long answer: The output of that module should be negative and the partially filtered current input and output pulses will be 180 degrees out of phase if it is a conventional buck-boost topology so it needs a good ground connection for current flow not only to the battery but also to the atomizer. I do not know how efficient the module is or how good the filtering is to even attempt to calculate how much the opposing currents will cancel each other out in a common ground pathway. :p

Uh... what? If the current negative at the bottom of the woodvil is sufficiently grounded, and all I'm doing is running that negative up with a piece of copper or silver to the ground button on the pcb kick so it's grounding too... and it's a given that the kick works because it works perfectly in a metal mod already... then what does atomizer grounding have to do with it? The atomizer is working fine now, so why would it not work?
 

glassgal

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Sounds like I should just try what you have engineered first... Hmm, I really wanted some more poison in the house too lol. Would a quick bath in ethanol in a ultrasonic cleaner work on the brass screws? Already do that with attys between flavors.

Hydrogen peroxide is H2O2... basically water with an extra oxygen molecule. It's like rubbing alcohol only better. You buy it to clean your ears... I take it your ears aren't very clean... :blink:

*just messing wit cha* :lol:
 

glassgal

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timk

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Hydrogen peroxide is H2O2... basically water with an extra oxygen molecule. It's like rubbing alcohol only better. You buy it to clean your ears... I take it your ears aren't very clean... :blink:

*just messing wit cha* :lol:
Most doctors will tell you not to clean your ears... Just saying lol
 
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